She completed the first week of flowering happily and she keeps stretching. Trailers net added to level the canopies.

Another good week here in the tent. Getting water daily. Defoliated as needed every other day. The girls are looking great and smelling great. Lots of frost coming off these girls. Started the UVB at 30 minutes and have moved up to an hour. The tests went right to two hours but I wanted to ramp it up. Will go up thirty minutes tomorrow and continue that every few days to ramp up usage.

Just watch video and have fun！ And I want to have my own marijuana farm~ My youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/@VPNuseryoooo

Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Probleme

Everything is moving forward nicely

New Pots and soil using the bio bizz line. Topped banana blaze looks to be recovering well, orange bud looks ready this week Topped at some point.

She's looking absolutely gorgeoys very bushy with 12 main colas,wish I could have had more time to grow her in vegetative stage however she's eating very good,no problems at all,she went trough a bad week where she was lacking some nutrient I don't know why because she is in a living soil like her sisters and none of them had any issues however she's starting flower,actually she started force flowering with her sisters on August 3rd

Starting to see a lot of white hairs think they are getting ready for flower, extremely excited to see how these ladies do! Thanks for checking in & happy growing friends!✌️🏼🌱 Day 23 - Everything seems to be going ok can’t see any issues other than the one plant with spots on the leaves but that is from spilling nutrient water on them! Day 24 - started LST on 1 Orange Sherbet & 1 White Widow to compare the differences at harvest! Day 25 - they are looking great! Can’t wait to see how the buds look😍✌️🏼 Day 26 - stretching out a lot! Day 27 - Last day of week 4 everything is going great!✌️🏼🌱

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyos. I am hopeful she will recover and reconnect the xylem and phloem channels. Oopsy level stress event. A couple of days later, the stem was tied in place to hold it, and I spent some time gently caressing the stem, bending slowly over time as it becomes more pliable the more you bend it. A little delay, but the core framework is now in place. If your soil has high pH,it's not ideal, you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC, The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur, also important for plant growth and potentially serving as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can) soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore, can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates; while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During daytime, the light is sensed multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore at night IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light release from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis and water is found to be in its icosahedron molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

5/24 Woke up on payday to find that my father is in the hospital. My house was robbed a few days before so I guess the hits keep coming. The plants are doing good though. I'm glad I kept them in as we had a frost last night. I moved my cage yesterday onto the asphalt and put the big pallet in. I just need to sanitize the others before they go in the cage. I'm being super cautious. I think tomorrow will be the day I make the switch to the garage while they fill out these 3's.OK. 5/25 Plants were all moved to the garage with the door open for indirect light. It's 54 degrees. At night I'll pull them back in and give them a few more hours under the hps which will also help with heat. Knocked a stem sideways but it'll pop back. Feels good to get things moving. HST seems to being going good. UPDATE: Went back over at one and noticed that the plant I hit with a wire (or something I didn't see what happened) was almost sideways and really loose. I had tied it to a clip with flagging. That didn't work. I asked a friend and I ended up pinching off the first true leaves then mounded happy drug up around it to keep it upright. It LOOKS much happier. Of course that shit happens to your biggest healthiest plants. Oh well all the 10th planet are doing phenomenal. Can't wait to move these girls to there final homes. Plants went under lights at seven. I'm acclimenting them to the right light schedule. I don't want to jump from 18/6 to 15 hours. They did really good in the cold Temps and wind. The big one I had to fix looks like it's doing great. Once they are hardened and fill these pots they go in their final home. 5/26 Plants did great being in direct sunlight for a few hours and staying in the garage at night. They look super healthy. I'm planning on watering tomorrow. Wondering if I should start to add some silica to strengthen the stalks. Also wondering if I should add more soil to some of the pots like I did to the other one as the stretched a little. This is something I may do tomorrow before I water. Went back over to switch the lights on and pull the plants back and lock up at 7:30. Forgot my phone of course and these girls were looking amazing. I have to water tomorrow. I coukd add more soul to some of the pots but I'm reluctant due to stem rot. They'll get buried much deeper in there final homes. Don't want to mount up soil and then water and promote rot. Anyway plants are adapting amazing. Dialing the light closer to normal here. This is a great transition place for them to he. I've noticed a few wrinkled leaves but thats to be expected. Oh, I got my free pure Michigan seeds from premium cultivars!!! 5/27 WATERED EVERYTHING TODAY WITH HALF A Powerade BOTTLE APPROX. 16OZ. Plants are in direct light in the mornings and I haven't seem any burning yet. I noticed a small spot on one of the first true leaves but I think it's just a bite from an insect. Everything is green as hell. I'm wondering if I should add fresh soil to the pots but I didn't want to do it on a watering day. Plus the plants will be going in there final homes shortly. Very happy with progress this far. UPDATE Went over at 1230 and everything looked great. I sanitized the cage AND the pallets. Also bought 3 more 30 gallon grow bags. Once they go in there they will explode! I can't wait. I'm considering ordering netting for moths. Depending on price i might get some. If not I'll keep using the BT. UPDATE: Went and checked around 430. Temps were in the 70's and they had a few hours of direct sun. No burns evident as of yet. Pallets fit in the cage like puzzle pieces. Now I need to sanitize my grade stakes bamboo and trellis and setthat stuff up. I'm going to screw the grade stakes to the pallets and attach garden rods and bamboo with zip ties and I'll have a horizontal trellis. Once branches are a little bigger I'll begin LST. The plants that I topped AND the ones I FIMed are doing great. The FIMed ones with at least three colas some have four. Hoping the plants took that time growing roots. 5/28 Plants are all standing up tall. They loved that water. Haven't noticed any burns and they get direct sunlight in the mornings. Soon I can put them in the cage and start setting up my trellis and supports. Fan leaves on soms are bigger than my hands. These girls are probably the healthiest plants I've grown. I usually do clones and end up starting with problems. This is great starting with seeds and have no problems. UPDATE: Went back around two because Temps had reached 92f and rh was only 20%. Nights cool off greatly so it's a dramatic temperature shift. Plants looked great. All standing up looking great. Put plants in at 7:30 ,and continue the light until 9 and have it turn on at 4am. Then they are out by sunrise. Did notice some burning on one of my plants a large fan leaf. What can I say? It was extremely hot. I'm surprised they did as well as they did. 5/29 Everything standing up perfectly looking great. Plantscget an extra hour of sun at night and morning and are on 19/7 with the extra added light. Trying to acclimate and finish hardening off this week. I'd love to be able to at least put them in full sunlight for the day. I think they'd be fine. I'm really impressed with how they are growing. Second guessing not HST all of them. However I think I might light dep a couple. We'll see. I've still got work to do. UPDATE: put the plants in around 7. One of my lights shit the bed. They are just 150 watt hps but I was using them to finish hardening off my plants and slowly adjust them to the natural light. The on/off switch fell off. I'm sure my cousin can fix it bit the one is pe9bably fine as I'm only going fir a few more days. The thing about having this many plants to choose from is that I can pheno hunt and put the VERY best into the final containers and if I decide too I could light dep. 5/30 WATERED EVERYTHING TODAY WITH HALF A POWERADE BOTTLE. My cousin can probably fix the other light but I don't think it will matter. Within a week I'm going to have these girls in their final homes. I just need to sanitize the trellis and posts and then screw them to the pallets. I'll have this all taken care of before the plants go in the hole. I did notice another burn on a leaf. Def glad I'm taking the time to do this right. UPDATE: I put the girls in the barn around 7:30 and flicked the one 150 watt HPS light I have working on. I added a half hour more of darkness to try to acclimate them quicker. Light stays on until 9 qnd came back on at four but i changed it to 4:30. I'm usually there by 5. I'm looking through my surveillance cameras and it doesn't even look like the light is on. Of course its super bright out but I should be able to see from that image. Luckily the building the go in has massive windows up top to let light in and windows on every side so the light is probably unnecessary. However due to my bullshit luck last year I'm being as cautious as I can. Tomorrow is supposed to be extremely hot again as is the next day. I think I'll leave the door down a little, open the other and move the plants back so they have no direct sunlight and adding a fan. That way they can continue to recover. They seem bigger everything I see them. 5/31 Another hot day. I figure a few more days (under a week) and I can transplant these girls! Supposed to be 85 today and 90 tomm. It was 45 when I got here. These girls are doing well handling this bipolar weather. UPDATE: IM AN IDIOT AND THIS IS AN 8 DAY WEEK lol. Maybe I'll do a six day week next time to get back on track. Went back over at two and noticed some burns. Sent a video to a friend andcwith the sun we've had and the weather in the 90's he agreed the damage was minimal. However there was someone there working who opened more doors which let a lot more light in. It's supposed to be in the 90s tomorrow too. I may leave the doors shut. There are windows on everyside and an enormous cone at the top so the get plenty of sun. He also grows and I've been careful to not let anyone that grows go around my plants. I'm going to have to talk with family about this. To be honest I'm kinda pissed. Next watering I may add some kelp me kelp you and start a small nute regimen. UPDATE Went back over at seven after having a panic attack. Half stoned half asleep. Stupidly I was looking at a plant and thought "shit" the FIM must not have took but in reality I was just stoned and tired so I topped a plant that had already been fimmed so we'll see how that goes. Purple punch is so far behind everything else it's not even funny. There might be one that's doing pretty well and that of course is the one with no HST. Branches on the other strains are thick and ready for LST though. What I think I'll do is transplant the 10th planets and the blueberry cheese ones that are ready and hold off on the rest for a while. Hopfully I'll be able to show plants in final homes next week.

It’s day 30. One month old since her first sun light exposition. It’s been an amazing journey. A great start for 2025!

I grew all of my plants the same and with 3 strains and only being allowed to have 5 plants total I have to pick the strongest growers and hope they stay strong and this time for me the gamble payed off nicely with a good harvest. I would recommend this strain as it grows fast and did not seem to be a picky eater and took in a lot of heavy feedings... Thanks for checking out my harvest and If you have any questions I will do my best to quickly answer them..

Hello... fin de semaine 13, floraison 7. Le moment de la récolte est imminent pour la critical+2.0, je pense que d’ici 2 ou 3 jours ce sera bon... Et pour la gorilla Cbd, peu être une petite semaine de plus. Je surveille de près les trichromes. Juste avant la récolte, je vais laisser 24/48h les plantes dans le noir. Le flushing est fait aussi, j’ai commencé déjà la semaine dernière, et aussi hier. J’ai rincer la terre des pots de 10L avec environ 30L d’eau au pH 6.2~. J’ai effectué cette opération 2 fois. Voilà pour cette presque dernière semaine... 😉 Happy grow...😎

Defoliated to improve airflow and re tied branches down to create a more even canopy. Will re ammend the medium with 2 cups of worm casting, 1.5 tbps azomite and Gaia Green 4 4 4 on the last day of week 4. Recharge in every watering during veg.

31-03-2019 Buds are getting bigger by the day. Increased Nutrients for the final 1-2 weeks, hopefully will see an improvement in size as in Bud tightness. 4-4-2019 These girls are getting real close to Dying for a good cause. Bud ! And just like farm animals fattening up before they get slaughtered these girls are doing just that.💀 6-4-2019 The New larger room is now open. Spent today moving the girls and equipment to their new environment. Tomorrow these fat ones start the flush process and towards the end of the week total darkness for 72hrs. then Harvest, Harvest ,Harvest. Trim Trim. for days. lol

7/1: This plant has been extremely fun to watch do its thing over the last few weeks. Those little mistakes I made or neglected in my first grow have significantly helped me get off on the right foot this time around. Not to mention, I feel that the plant/genetics is fairly low maintenance. As I mentioned at the end of last week's entry, I started a little LST on the lower most node. Today, I have added landscaping staples to the second lowest node to allow it to stretch out and get more light from under the quickly growing top canopy. In addition to starting LST on the second lowest node, I did bring the light down to 16 inches above canopy at 60% power. This gives me a PPFD reading of roughly 750, which could be inaccurate due to using the phone app, but it still gives me a good idea of how much I should bump light power up each time. 7/3: Today was a big day for the Mrs. Gorilla Cookie. I decided it was time to add in a bit more soil as well as some amendments. I added 3tbsp of Gaia Green Power Bloom 2-8-4 and 1tbsp Gaia Green All Purpose 4-4-4. I then reapplied the landscaping staples to continue LST. The plants seem to be responding well to the light increase that I applied on 7/1. At the time, I was worried it would be too much, but the plant is really soaking it up and praying toward the light. I may increase the light a bit more at the end of the week. In addition, I plan to try out a self watering base toward the end of the week. I will going out of town soon for the remainder of July and need to test the base before I leave. I do have buddies that will help, but I would like things to be as easy as possible for them. I also hear great things on these self watering bases and if it works out will, I will definitely incorporate them into future grows. 7/6: The end of week 4 has come and this plant is really starting to kick into high gear. I do think adding in the bloom amendments really helped. Great, speedy growth, and looking green and healthy. Pistils have started to form and she's definitely starting to get a little stank. The lights are still at 60% but due to the constant growth the canopy raised causing the light to be 12 inches close and PPFD up to 950. I did notice a tiny bit of tacoing so I lifted the light a couple inches. I am now trying to keep them at a constant 14 inches above the canopy with a PPFD of around 850. I will likely hold off on adjusting the brightness for another few days, as I am liking the results I'm seeing. I started the plant on her self-watering base yesterday when I would have usually given it a feeding. Its only been a day, so its too soon to tell just how well its working, but the soil seems to be at a perfect moisture at all times. I did feed a little from the top today to help some of the nutrients that may still be at the top work its way into the pot. Overall, solid week. This grow is already shaping up to exceed my expectations and I feel pretty good about making it through the Veg stage in one piece. On to the flowering stage! WEEK 4 AVG TEMP: 72.9F WEEK 4 AVG HUMIDITY: 64.1%

Day16: nutrients like plan Day 18: i added 2 secret jardin tled 42w bloom --------------------------------------------- She is doing well, all the other stuck a bit because of heavy deflotation i made last week🤷‍♂️😅 The small one in the middle is an Banana clone, which i made just for Fun. (I tested to clone with biobiss root juice, it took 5 days to root) 😁 Maybe someone have some experience with secret jardin tled can can tell me how far i should place them? 😅 Merry Xmas everyone 🎄🍌