Von 12 cuts die ich an meiner 12 Wochen alten Ak47 gemacht habe sind 7 durchgekommen gut verwurzelt und bereit in ein grossen Topf zu kommen. Finde die Genetik einfach klasse und wollte sie mir bewahren es ist das erste mal das ich mit clonen ein grow mache, hoffe klappt alles gut.

Starting to pack on some weight now Room is very pungent Few more branches to tie up then start flush next week This is week 7 flower haven’t had time to do the last fortnight 👎🏻

Defol and tied down she doubled in size , ran a flush . Keeping up the defol and spreading her out this week then another week of veg before flipping

normal germination

6 weeks in flower nothing much to do the cherry poppers & the HerzOG to the right doing good but i have no clue what to do with the other plant maybe she outgrow her 25L pot in veggi, she was quit tall back then idk man

Ende ersten Woche Flower und Start der Zweiten, ich hatte wieder ein Problem mit Trauermücken und habe diese jetzt mit Neemöl bekämpft und die erste mit Sand bedeckt. Dadurch trocknet diese nicht so schnell aus und die Mücken können ihre Eier nicht in die Erde setzen, ich hoffe mal, das hilft. Die Pflanzen haben einen mächtigen Schub gemacht und sind min. 10 cm gewachsen, man erkennt schon kleine anzeigen von Härchen. Tag 4 von Woche 8: Heute habe ich das Netz gespannt und stark erlaubt sowie triebe raus genommen die nicht mindestens durchs Netz gingen oder kein Licht bekamen. Ich bin gespannt wie gut die anderen jetzt davon Profitieren werden .

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

21/11/2022 - Diamo inizio al primo giorno di vegetativa, ancora niente acqua, temperatura e umidità costanti intorno ai 25° e 70% umidità. Probabilmente domani alzero appena il dimmer della lampada visto che qualche piantina sta un pò strecciando. 22/11/2022 - Ancora niente acqua, aumentato il dimmer della lampada al 30% 23/11/2022 - Prima irrigazione, data circa 350ml per vaso con soluzione di acqua osmotica e 4ml/l di Biobizz Root-Juice 26/11/2022 - Irrigato per la seconda volta, stesse quantità e soluzione della volta precedente 27/11/2022 - Ho notato che le piante vicino alla coperta riscaldante stanno crescendo un pò più velocemente delle loro controparti nel lato opposto, per cercare di bilanciare ho cambiato di posizione le piante più vicine alla coperta riscaldante con quelle verso la porta del box, lasciando quelle centrali invariate,

Think I’m going to have to harvest maybe a little early as I will not be around to water the plant.🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️ bit to sure if it’s ready or not. What do you think is it to early and how early ?

Heute geerntet und wow! Tag 83 und sie riecht so fruchtig ! Die trichome haben eine schöne gelbliche ,milchige Farbe. Sie hat nass 352g auf die wasge Heute den groben Trimm gemacht und gewogen. 105g und sie riecht so brutal gut und voller trichome

It’s seems more leaves are praying up on the smaller girl after guess it was asking for that trim. Got some great sticky bud forming! 2+ weeks left

def

Flowers looking great… smell is incredible

Désolé je me suis trompé sur les filles en faite ceux sont des ( banana blaze de dutch passion). Comme vous le voillez elles sont loin d'être près

Its time for more pk i am using Hesi phosphorus plus. Plants look like love it. Thank for watching lot of ❤️ from 🇲🇹

Week 1 seedling. ******************************************** Light cycle=18/6 Light Power=90w 37% Extractor controller settings High temp= 26c Low temp= c Temp step=0c High Rh= 70% Low Rh= % Rh step=0% Speed max=8 Speed min=1 Smart controller settings (during lights on). Lights on=4.00am Humidifier on=--60% Humidifier off=+70% Smart controller settings (during lights off). Lights off=10.00pm Humidifier on= off Humidifier off= off VPD aim=0.4-0.8 DLI aim=12-16 EC aim=0.2-0.8 PH aim=6.0-7.0 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 Method= Autofeed 1 dripper. Feed=Seedling Nutes Neutralise=0.1ml/L Roots=5ml/L Volume=1L Easy Ph down= 0 drops/L Ec=0.23 PH=6.5 Runs=6 Run times=1min Gap times=15min Total runtime=6mins Total flowrate= 30ml/min (15ml/min each) Auto start time=5.00am Auto stop time=6.05am 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 ******************************************** 📅19/5/24 Sunday (Day 1) 📋 (Day 2) Filled up humidifier at 8.00am 9.00pm lowered light H=6cm D=66cm Dli=14.0 Ppfd=216 📅20/5/24 Monday (Day 2) 📋 (Day 3) Wet soil a little. 📅21/5/24 Tuesday (day 3) 📋 (Day 4) Filled up humidifier at 8.00pm Setup drip system for little pot. Pot is raised off the ground so it's a bit closer to the light. 📅22/5/24 Wednesday (day 4) 📋 (Day 5) H=8cm D=60cm Dli=16.2 Ppfd=250 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 Method= Autofeed Feed=nutes Volume=1L Ec=0.23 PH=6.5 Volume left=0.875L Volume used=0.125L Volume each=62ml Runoff. Total runoff=0 Ec=PH= 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 📅23/5/24 Thursday (day 5) 📋 (Day 6) Filled humidifier at 6.00pm 📅24/5/24 Friday (day 6) 📋 (Day 7) H=8cm D=60cm Dli=16.2 Ppfd=250 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 Method= manually Feed=nutes Volume=0.1L Ec=0.23 PH=6.5 Volume left=L Volume used=L Volume each=ml Runoff. Total runoff=0 Ec=PH= 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 6.00 Pm went away. 📅25/5/24 Saturday (day 7) 📋(Day 8) away. Weekly roundup. 📋 It's just been a week of trying to keep a happy environment for her, I had to go away for the end of the week so left everything on autopilot until I get back. As usual being a Fastbuds strain she is developing at a nice fast rate. The weather has now flipped to summer mode so its a completely different battle now. Take it easy. Back soon.

Was a little bit challenging for me, due to the outdated nutrients table, mostly on the Flowering period, also little thing like i have to fill more the pots, also with this kind a strain and also with cuts instead of seeds, may be is better to don't do the topping and don't loose time and energy on the vegetative period. At the same time, more or less about the 8th week of flowering it starts to appear something like Alternalia or Overfeed of Phosphor still don't sure. All this issues have impact the grow in terms of the size of the branches and the whole plant, the size of the buds and the hardness. In strictly terms about the strain, the quality is out of mind, amount of resin is crazy, just have to improve my skills and get bigger crops

- Day 63 of Flower Light reduction to 50% - Day 65 of Flower Last time Watering - Day 67 of Flower Lights out for 3 days - day 70 of Flower Harvest Trichomes are about 15% amber and 80% cloudy with 5% clear Temperatures for drying gonna be 19°C and RH around 55%. She is looking beautiful and her Smell is so intensive you cannot unsmell it. Its Loud! Has Some Fruity (Plum or Tangie like), Soapy and Floral Notes to it. I cant wait for the smoke.

Switched over to bloom Booster tablets now the preflowers are showing I think the roots have filled the pots as they drink it dry every day! Especially the tallest! No LST just a few fans nipped of or the odd blade that's blocking light has been removed, and its helped! My HPS is leeching calcium from my tops but the bloom booster has 40% more cal/mag in them so we should be good. I just rotate the plants and it seems to get the green back in the leaves. Its technically 6 weeks from sprout BTW. Thanks for watching, any tips feedback welcome. Update- so the stretch hasn't stopped. 5" since Friday, I thought I was guna get small autos lol So I decided to do some lollipoping on all the plants And some defoliation. I've supercropped the death out of my Trouble plant, I mean every branch even the top! but she's back on track and growing again! Will update Friday!