Une des 2 pheno est vraiment devenue plus rouge que l'autre. Tres belle tete rosé . Tres resistante . Une des 2 fait parti de mes 3 plante a avoir eu problem ph et elle a sue sortir du lot et reprendre ca semaine perdu pour devenir une des plus grosse plante dans les 5 qui on pousser cote a cote .

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a new air pot has been replaced, and a new "Girl", I have very limited space, so I don't even know how I will do:) an interesting trip awaits, I will soon start making a timelapse video :).

Critical x Animal Cookies is stunned from the too much nutrition at the start. Plus everything was neem oil sprayed this last week. I had russet mites in the next grow space over. So I wanted to treat everything that was vegging plus the problem plant. So she got her first solution change today. So hopefully she takes off. No training this week with spraying. She is growing under the Hortibloom Solux 350. Thank you Hortibloom, and Ripper seeds. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

This week I'm showing you the harvest of the second of the two London Pound Cakes, which was trained with a Mainfolding method, but without any LST bending. Technique Used: We did the first topping at the 5th internode, as per the manual (beforehand, we're talking about microgrowing; the plant can stay short, but it's advisable not to wait that long for autoflowers, for example). We created the Mainfolding by trimming everything after the topping, leaving only the two small branches. We let them grow for three internodes and then topped them twice more. We got several good buds, similar in appearance and of excellent quality. I only trimmed the one that seemed a bit off, a faded greenish color that wasn't getting much light. The plant is truly beautiful; it has opened up like a bush, nice and plump, and the flowers are firm and firm with a distinct sweet aroma that suggests a fantastic taste, something that's not at all obvious these days. Pot and Soil - This plant was grown in a 20-liter pot with Plagron's BioLight Mix organic soil, which gave us a solid start, and then we proceeded to fertilize. Lighting/PPFD - A Zamnesia Phytonaut 480W LED lamp was used from mid-flowering until fruiting. We achieved a PPFD (photosynthetically active photon flux density) between 800 and 1200 μmol/m²/s, with a cycle of 24 hours, then 23 hours, then 20 hours, and finally 18 hours. All with CO2, which mitigates the effects of heat and excessive light. Z - https://www.zamnesia.io/it/14526-led-grow-lamp-phytonaut-480.html (Google national link if it doesn't work) Growing system: Zamnesia Ecosystem, fan, extractor, and grow tent, all manufactured and branded by Zamnesia. Trichhomes: We still have a good amount of amber trichomes, starting at 30%. There are several 40-45% opaque and transparent trichomes. In this case, we've gone much further than usual in terms of maturity because the plant is indica-dominant, and we need and want to bring out its characteristics, even at the risk of some oxidation (the amber color is caused by oxidation. Don't fall into the common mistake of thinking that all or a majority of amber is needed; the harvest window opens at 15%, and you don't need a lot of amber, especially if the plants are sativa). Nutrients: Grown with Plagron Official, a 100% organic base fertilizer, and all recommended additives. Visit www.plagron.com for grow cycle calculations, product selection, and general information. All nutrients are available on the Zamnesia website. Also check out the live substrate and the fantastic new Zammi product line. You can find this excellent strain here: https://www.zamnesia.io/en/11114-london-pound-cake-zamnesia-seeds-feminized.html (Google if the link doesn't work; it's a national link) Terpene Profiles // Caryophyllene, Myrcene, Limonene Parents // Sunset Sherbet x Larry OG Genetics // 80% Indica / 20% Sativa THC // 22% CBD // 0-1% Flowering Time // 9-10 weeks Taste / Aroma: Sweet, Citrus, Spicy, Vanilla, Creamy Effect: Relaxing, Euphoric, Happy, Balanced, Calming Zamnesia Description: London Pound Cake is a decadent hybrid that satisfies both the palate and the soul. Derived from a potent cross between Sunset Sherbet and Larry OG, this strain combines intense dessert flavors, high-level potency, and lush growth, making it a true delight for growers and connoisseurs alike. In the grow room, London Pound Cake displays vigorous growth and a textbook indica structure, with sturdy branches and dense, trichome-covered buds. With just 9–10 weeks of flowering, London Pound Cake offers impressive yields, up to 600 g/m² indoors and a whopping 900 g/plant outdoors by October. The aroma is decidedly indulgent: sweet, creamy, and citrusy, with hints of vanilla and spice filling the air like a working oven. With 22% THC, London Pound Cake's effects are deep, relaxing, and euphoric, melting the body and mind and promoting a happy, fulfilled state of mind. Perfect for evenings, creative relaxation, or as a special treat after a long day, London Pound Cake combines flavor and potency in impeccable balance. For those who appreciate premium flavor and performance, London Pound Cake by Zamnesia Seeds is a pure comfort strain, offering indulgence, an irresistible aroma, and a deeply satisfying effect. Music - Frequencies 432 Hz and 528 Hz and black musc from www.radionula.com "The best that nature has to offer" www.zamnesia.com

Aufgrund der Höhe, habe ich zu Beginn der Woche an der einen Pflanze HST angewendet und den headbud an einer bestimmten Höhe "umgeknickt". Das hat hervorragend gut funktioniert. Allerdings habe ich den abgeknickten Haupttrieb mit einem seil fixiert. Als ich heute nachmittag in das Zelt sah, lag der Trieb neben Topf und war eins a sauber abgetrennt. Das Seil war nicht unter Spannung gezogen, lediglich als Haltepunkt wenn der Trieb sich wieder aufstellt. Nunja er ist jetzt ab. Ausserdem ist eine weitere Pflanze Männlich. So bleiben 4 von 7 die definitiv weiblich sind. Zum Wochenende gibt es ein paar neue Fotos von den verbleibenden Damen. Bis dahin, grow on.

Hello everyone 😎 Time for harvest my Tropicana Cookies auto from Fast buds after 10 weeks she looks beautiful with some purple color and amazing smell The buds are fat & frosty Have a nice day

just before flowering 8 weeks ago-I took 2 clones of each strain from my last 4 diaries - 8 clones total and vegged them with CFL then went to LED reflector mars 192 (400w wall). now,my flowering room has just finished the last crop so i moved all 8 grown ups to veg another week and today i started 1212. i will be adding 2 X 300w BloomSpect LED panels in a week so total flowering led power is Mars Reflector 192 plus the 2units bloomspect 300 (660w wall). This diary records only flowering weeks without the clones vegging. I am having 8 plants with 660w @ 1.2m by 1.2m room - 10-12 oz dry is expected. Pictures soon Cheers

Easy grow. Special qeen best od Royal Queen seeds. Next year again ..... special qeen 2 1 week to Finish

El día 19 de floración se hace poda de brotes bajos y una pequeña defoliación de hojas de abanico 👍

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

This was the last run I’ll be doing of this girl she finished beautifully nothing bad to say about the strain. When I scroll down the yield increased exponentially

Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Probleme

💜 Purple Haze by Zamnesia – Pheno B Week 9 | The Frosty Little Bush Welcome back to another chapter of the 8×8 Adventure! 🌱💚 Well... I think we can officially stop asking what kind of plant Purple Haze Pheno B wants to be. She's made her decision. She's a bush. 😂💜 And she's a beautiful one. While her sister has taken a completely different path, Pheno B continues to build herself outward, staying compact, dense and beautifully full. But something has changed this week. The flowers are starting to get seriously frosty. And that's where this girl is becoming particularly interesting. Because although she's still unmistakably the little bush of the Purple Haze family... she's starting to show us another side of herself. 🌿 Still the Bush If you've been following this phenotype from the beginning, you already know her personality. She's compact. She's dense. She's lush. She's not interested in chasing the ceiling. She's perfectly happy building herself outward and filling the space around her. And honestly, I really like it. The more weeks we spend watching the two Purple Haze sisters develop under the same overall environment, the more obvious their differences become. Same genetics. Same room. Same general conditions. Same lighting philosophy. Same feeding strategy. But completely different expressions. Her sister has developed her own architecture. Pheno B has looked at all of that and apparently decided: "No thanks. I'm staying a bush." 😂 And that's exactly what makes this phenotype hunt so fascinating. 💜 Something Is Happening With the Frost The biggest thing catching my attention this week isn't her height. It isn't her structure. We already know those things. It's the frost. The resin production is becoming increasingly visible across the developing flowers, and the change feels much more noticeable compared with where she was only a short time ago. She's starting to sparkle. And she's doing it quickly. That's probably what surprised me most. For a phenotype that has been moving at her own rhythm, the speed at which she's now developing this frosty appearance is really interesting to watch. The flowers are becoming more defined. The sugar leaves are beginning to carry that beautiful crystalline appearance. And suddenly the whole plant has another layer of character. The bush is getting frosty. 💜❄️ 🌸 The Flowers Are Finding Their Identity The flower sites continue developing throughout that compact structure. There's still a lot of green surrounding them, but the flowers themselves are becoming increasingly easy to distinguish. Fresh pistils continue emerging. The calyxes are becoming more noticeable. And now the resin is joining the party. This is one of my favourite stages to document because you can actually see the plant changing from week to week. It's no longer simply: "Here are some flowering sites." It's becoming: "Okay... now we're starting to see what these flowers are going to become." And with Pheno B, that process is happening throughout her little bush. 🍃 Lush, Green & Completely Herself The foliage remains one of the strongest characteristics of this phenotype. She's still carrying that beautiful green colour and an enormous amount of healthy-looking foliage. Even though the flowers are becoming more prominent, the plant hasn't lost her identity. She's still that compact, leafy Purple Haze. Still dense. Still bushy. Still doing things her own way. And that's something I really appreciate about this project. We're not trying to make every phenotype behave identically. We're watching them reveal themselves. Pheno B has already revealed quite a lot. And I'm enjoying every chapter. 👭 Two Sisters, Two Completely Different Stories This comparison is becoming more and more fun. When we first started watching these two Purple Haze phenotypes, there were plenty of similarities. Now? Not so much. 😂 Pheno A: elegant, balanced, beautifully proportioned. Pheno B: compact, dense, bushy and increasingly frosty. Same genetic name. Different architecture. Different personality. Different expression. And that's exactly what phenotype hunting is all about. If anything, the longer this run continues, the more convinced I become that growing multiple plants from the same genetic line is incredibly valuable. You don't just get a plant. You get a conversation between genetics and environment. And these two sisters are having a very interesting conversation. 💡 Light From Above & Below The lighting ecosystem continues to support the entire room as the plants move deeper into flowering. With Pheno B's compact structure, it's particularly interesting to watch how the flowers develop throughout the dense architecture rather than simply focusing on the tallest points. The additional lighting within the lower canopy remains part of the experiment, and I'm enjoying documenting how the flowers across different levels of this little bush continue developing. One thing is becoming increasingly obvious: there's a lot happening inside this plant. She's small compared with some of the taller girls. But she's certainly not empty. There's a lot of flower packed into that structure. 💧 Consistency Continues As with the rest of the 8×8 Adventure, Pheno B continues under the same overall flowering nutrition strategy. The current program remains: 🌱 Terra Bloom – 2.2 ml/L 🌱 Power Buds – 1 ml/L 🌱 Green Sensation – 1 ml/L 🌱 Sugar Royal – 1 ml/L ⚗️ pH adjustment products as required The nutrient solution remains around EC 2.0 mS/cm, with pH around 6.0. No special recipe. No special treatment. She's simply responding in her own way. And that's the part I find most interesting. 🌡️ The Environment The current recorded conditions for Week 9 are: 🌸 Flower Week: 9 📏 Height: 111 cm 💡 Light schedule: 12/12 🌡️ Day temperature: 20°C 🌙 Night temperature: 25°C 💧 Relative humidity: 60% ⚗️ pH: 6.0 ⚡ EC: approximately 2.0 mS/cm 💦 Solution temperature: 25°C 🌱 Substrate temperature: 26°C 🌬️ CO₂: 636 ppm ? Pot size: 15 L 💧 Watering: approximately 1.2 L per plant / 24h The room continues providing the same overall ecosystem, while each phenotype continues interpreting it differently. And Pheno B? She's interpreting it as: "Build a bush. Then cover it in frost." 😂💜 📸 The Camera Loves This Girl This is another phenotype that rewards getting close. From a distance, you see the bush. You see the structure. You see the density. But move closer... And suddenly everything changes. You start seeing the individual flowers. The white pistils. The developing calyxes. The sugar leaves. And now, increasingly, those beautiful resin-covered surfaces. That's what makes documenting this project so enjoyable. A plant can look completely different depending on how closely you observe it. The wide photograph tells one story. The flower photograph tells another. And the macro tells you there's an entire universe happening inside that little flower. Purple Haze Pheno B is giving us plenty to photograph. 🔮 Looking Ahead And now I'm genuinely curious about the next chapter. Because I think we're reaching an interesting point with this girl. She's still the bush. She's still compact. She's still completely different from her sister. But the flowers are changing. The frost is increasing. The structure is becoming more defined. And her development seems to be accelerating compared with what we've seen from her previously. So I'm going to keep watching. Keep documenting. Keep photographing. And most importantly... let her continue being herself. Because whatever she decides to become, she clearly isn't interested in following anybody else's blueprint. 💜 The Frosty Bush Every phenotype in this room has given me something different to appreciate. Some have been challenging. Some have been demanding. Some have been incredibly fast. Some have taken their time. And Purple Haze Pheno B? She's given me the bush. 😂🌿 But now she's adding something new to that identity. She's becoming the frosty bush. 💜❄️ And I have to admit... I like that version even more. She's compact. She's lush. She's beautifully green. She's structurally interesting. Her flowers are developing. And the resin is beginning to become one of her defining characteristics. She doesn't need to become her sister. She doesn't need to become the tallest plant in the room. She doesn't need to change who she is. She just needs to keep being Pheno B. And right now... she's doing that beautifully. 🙏 Thank You Another week, another little piece of the 8×8 Adventure puzzle falls into place. This project continues to show me that genetics can take the exact same environment and turn it into completely different stories. And these Purple Haze sisters are becoming one of my favourite examples. One elegant. One bushy. One beautifully balanced. One increasingly frosty. Two sisters. Two personalities. And two plants I absolutely love watching develop. A huge thank you to: 💚 GrowDiaries — for giving growers a place to document, share and learn together. 🌱 Zamnesia — for providing the genetics behind this fascinating phenotype hunt. 💜 Plagron — for the nutrition supporting the project. 💡 Future of Grow LED — for the lighting powering the room. 🌿 TrolMaster — for helping maintain the controlled environment behind the scenes. ✨ LumiFlora — for the additional lighting helping us observe flowering throughout the canopy. And, of course, thank you to everyone following along, commenting, asking questions and enjoying this adventure with me. Purple Haze Pheno B may still be the bush. But now she's becoming a frosty bush. 💜❄️🌿 And something tells me... this little girl may have a few more surprises waiting for us. Let's keep watching. Let's keep documenting. And let's keep letting every phenotype tell her own story. Growers Love, my friends, and happy growing! 🌱💜

Buds are beginning to forms very well, the plants looks very strong. I have been cutting off big and old leaves, also the small lower branches. Compost added on top of the soil and watered down. Smell is very good. Molasses were added to the soil, to provide sugars for the plant and microbes.

Woche 10 🍒 Kannabia-Ladys Update: Tag 70 / Blütetag 35 ​ Es wird mal ​wieder einmal Zeit für ein Update unserer beiden Kannabia-Ladys: Cheery Dream und Karibbean Mango. Wir befinden uns heute an Tag 70 insgesamt, was Blütetag 35 entspricht. ​Das Höhenmanagement hat uns anfangs etwas Sorgen bereitet, aber wir denken, wir haben die Situation jetzt sehr gut im Griff. Wir haben ich Scrog-Leinen eingezogen, um das Wachstum zu kontrollieren und eine gleichmäßige Lichtverteilung zu gewährleisten. ​Beide Pflanzen entwickeln sich prächtig und zeigen erste Anzeichen für eine vielversprechende Blütenbildung. Ich bin gespannt, wie sich die beiden in den kommenden Wochen weiterentwickeln. ​Schaut gerne wieder vorbei für das nächste Update!

the weather is just wonderful at the moment. i'm happy to be growing it so early in the year. it's branching out like crazy and the first flower buds are already appearing. let's see how much higher it will go. once again, i'm totally convinced by the FAST BUDS genetics.

Finished trimming the GSC tonight after a 6 day dry. Buds are very sticky and the jars smell like chocolate chip cookies. Lots of 3.5G+ buds (dry). Dry weight is about 88g of buds and 17g of shake/popcorn. Granddaddy Purple #1 is still drying, GDP #2 came out to about 70 of buds and 20g of popcorn/shake. Planning to make concentrates with the shake and popcorn. Even after no cure, I have sampled both GDP and GSC. GDP is my favorite (but GDP has always been my all time favorite) but GSC smells, looks, and tastes better. Planning to let them cure 8 weeks in Amber Ball 32oz Mason Jars, hoping for good final product. Feel like I didn’t do too bad for a first grow! Learned a lot! Cherry Pie & Wedding Cake next!