Flowers are getting bigger by the day now,not much more i can say .. she's loving life

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

ok so everything has gone fantastic , no nutrient burns at all , and have been slowly creeping up the base nutrients , i have stopped the cal mag and now adding house and gardens bud XL at full strength these girls are now in full swing of flower and i bought a new ph stick this week , i have found when PHing the feed bucket that its best too have air stones in the bucket , add all nuts and then ph but do not use the feed that day as if you check the next day the ph is off again so i left it 24 hours after i add more ph down , and it seems too make the measurements alot easier and stable , i have bent down the main stems " without damaging them onto my netting too A keep the canopy all the same high so my lighting is covering all plants at the same distance and also it allowed the side stems too reach up too , i also was sponsored another new led light by kingbo this week so have added another 600watt led too the grow , so now have two 600's and one 900watt , and temps are still fine sitting at 24c lights on and 19-20 off , so am pleased with that , this lady is nice and compact and tight lots of leaves that I had too remove too open up her bud sites , stretch was also minimal ,

Day 41 Strain: @sweetseeds Killer Kush Feed : @athena.ag @power.si @impellobio Light: @fluencebyosram Spydr 2i

These lady's have been taking there sweet time initially wat I thought was going to be a ugly one turned into the best and most frosty one I got in tent although none of my ggxwws look the same but two but this strain has grown very good and has one hell of a smell to them...well this week was going good but had one turn hermi on me lucky I caught before it got bad and got it removed before it pollinated my others

+5cm, I think reached her final height. Smell is very strong and delicious. There were a lot of leaves to trimm in this week. Getting difficult to trimm colas without touching young flowers - going to reduce defoliation. Will continue to feed flowering mix, but still plan to switch to final parts mix very soon. Spraying maybe every second day once a day now, keeping RH between 40%-60%. Appreciate growing this one - very strong plant with delicious smell😍 [Setup] - Tent: Sticky Experts 1m x 0.5m - Light: 2 x Sanlight Q3W at 100% = 240W - Pot: Nutriculture Oxypot Single filled with 10L solution

The buds are starting to get a little bit bigger all the time. But they really don't look like they are ready to ripen anytime soon. The smell is still really earthy almost swamp like when I open the tent. The smell of the resin that coats your fingers is strongly lemon strawberry with a fuel undertone. my temps are down a few degrees to under 79 degrees during the day and humidity is under control. I've raised up the C02 ppm to 1500 on the autopilot with a 100 ppm swing. The sheer mass of plants is really pushing this setup to the max. I'm glad that I'm really fully controlling the environment. I was not anticipating this much height. I'm only going to lose a few buds to bleaching it looks like.

-Talea 2mlBg-Fm-Bh -BM / Ch (H2O)

06.11 Woche 6 Blüte Tag1 Umstellung auf 12/12 nach 24 Stunden Dunkelheit. Dli 28- 30. 2L mit Ec1.72 5.8 ph so wie immer. VPD 1.1

UPDATE ON MY RUN SO FAR, She has been growing tremendously i did run into some problem/deficiency i could not indicate what exactly it was but if i had to guess id say it was calmag issue but since ive upped my calmag i think the problem has came to a end and i have tackled it as i do not see it getting any worse ect ect, up to know this run has been a flight in the clouds using the ac infinity set up controlled everything from my phone so i could dial in that VPD the only thing i would say is abit of a problem is humidity the rh in my house has raised due to weather outside i guess, i did buy a dehumidifier and it brought the humidity down from 73% to 60% in the night it fights quite hard as temps drop but its not to high max 70% but as im preparing for flower i do need to be bringing it down allot id be comfortable at the mind if it could drop and be withing 50-60 mostly 55 but hopefully as the weather gets better it should drop the rh in my house just in time for flower hopefully! today i did some defoliation for better airflow as she was quite bushy and leaves were settling on other leaves and i couldn't tuck/hide also it was so awkward when watering especially with the clips/ties for (LST) hence why i made my decision to defol.... the videos are a (before and after defoliation) she has been no more than 500ppfd light all the way up to week 4, tomorrow i am going to up the light slightly to around 550ppfd as i am planning on flipping to flower in 2weeks if im happy with her growth and i wanna make sure i start bumping up that light intensity for flower ;) Come Week 5 i will be here to post another update on her growth

Hi guys sorry its late. Day 12 of flip to 12/12 now and the ladys are loving life, stretching away lots of bud sites. Still another 10 days togo until I do a major defoliation on them.

Plant is looking good 😊, fully recovered from defoliation, I set the lights closer, switched them to 12h of light per day, and did some spraying to control pests with neem oil and organic Marseille soap, everything good so far . Can't wait to see the flowers forming. I used a net to open up the branches, and get more colas, it worked but I think stressed out the plant a bit and the fact that I did it in the flowering period didn't helped, so next time I'll do it way before, but I recently bought the net so.. anyway I kept the net on for three days, and now I decided to remove it cause was getting me lot of troubles accessing the setup in general, watering, basically made impossible any movement inside the tent. Still did is thing and now I have not the best even canopy but many more top colas for sure. Please give me any advice, I've noticed it is drying out lot faster, humidity is still at 58% but I believe the roots are much more developed. I will leave home for 2 or 3 weeks, my sister will have the duty to just water, can't ask her more, hope for the best. So updates will be very rare but she'll take pictures for me and for us :D .

Hi everybody, The last plant has recovered quite well, since I have my ph under control again, gotta admit that the Milwaukee ph-pen feels a lot faster and stable in terms of readings and also the calibration. I am growing on Speedgrow rockwhool this time, and not growdan. Speedgrow claims that you don’t need to soak and buffer their cubes. I will test this once the plant moves out of the microgreen section into the tent, where I can monitor the water reservoir.

Hallo und willkommen in Blütewoche 6 Die Damen machen trotz allen Strapazen ihren Job sichtlich, außer bei der einen Dame, da sieht man das ein Drittel nicht mehr wirklich mitarbeitet bzw. versorgt wird und hat sich somit auch qualifiziert, dass warme zu Hause ggf. eher wie die Zeltpartnerinnen zu Verlassen. In den nächsten Tagen wird definitiv bei der ,,Zicke,, die Teile Pflanze abgenommen, die keine Versorgung mehr genießen und somit dem noch arbeitenden Teil auch die Kraft nimmt. Auch ein Vermännlichen möchten wir Vorbeugen. Wo gehobelt wird, fallen auch spähne ^^ ehrlich gesagt auch nicht so verkehrt, denn falls, gibt es dann neuen Platz :-) Einfach nach staken, sobald Luft ist, grins. Ansonsten zum Gießen, wir gießen zweimal am Tag und jede trinkt etwa gesamt 1,8 Liter innerhalb 24 Stunden. Da die Nährstoffe gut verarbeitet werden, erhalten sie innerhalb 24 Std. zweimal Nährung und anschließend zweimal Wasser. Es ist jetzt die Blütenwoche 6 wo wir auch mit P/K 13-14 ausklingen werden. Gegeben, falls werden wir große Blätter kurz vor der 7ten Blütewoche entfernen, da die Blüteperiode mit 8- 9 Wochen angegeben ist. Temperaturen, im Moment zum Glück hat es sich etwas abgekühlt. Aber letzte bis Mitte dieser Woche war es selbst Nachts kaum auszuhalten. Selbst das Klimagerät kam an seine Grenzen. Wir werden jetzt noch ein paar Tage das kühle Wetter mit 600 Watt nutzen, danach werden wir Zeit und Wattzahl noch einen bisschen Reduzieren (11 Std./ 400 Watt). Die Main Colas haben eine entsprechende Größe für und können dann entspannt Abreifen. Zum Geruch, also Hut ab, es drückt schon sehr intensiv in der Nase. Budstruktur: Sieht schon sehr robust aus, die Farbgebung ist in jetziger Phase wirklich faszinierend. Budaufbau geschieht noch, gleichzeitig reifen die ersten Trichome ab. Thema Trichome: Richtig frostig ist steht die Secret Source da, dennoch mit zunehmend mehr Nährung bilden auch die Green Gelato immer mehr aus. Das zu dieser Woche und allen Growmies eine annehme und Erfolgreiche Woche gewünscht! Vielen Dank auch im Voraus an all diejenigen die unsere Update´s verfolgen, kommentieren oder liken ;-) VG euer Growerteam LueRoots

Day 24 flower and holy frost! Sour Diesel is frosting up so much its crazy. The bud structure is abit smaller than all the others but man is it covered and look how much these girls stretched. Northern Lights isnt as frosty but has my favorite structure. Have alot of nice colas going and they are also starting to frost as well. Grandaddy Purp is surprising me in flower, this was the plant that's been the biggest and tallest the entire grow until now, it is the smallest. Its still stacking and prob going to be in flower longer than the others. I been hitting these girls with 800-900 ppfd at 18 inches from canopy and they seem to like it.

CONTEST SWEET SEEDS SWEET SEEDS SWEET GELATO GROWER ADRY www.teknogrow.it Instagram @teknogrow

Was worried about mostly cloudy trichomes on week 4 already, but upon further research it seems trainwreck keeps cloudy trichs for a very long time. Excited for week 5 weight.