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@xtchill
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Onto week 7 Gave them a proper lst as you can see. Think I'm going to put into flower 2morrow and see what the results are doing a 7 week veg instead of a 12 week veg. Going to set the scrog net up and get tucking. Looking lovely and healthy atm Peace
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*Week 2 flower 02/12 - still running 18/6 for now but will begin 12/12 within a week or so - 2nd and last round of defoliation - increased water feeds to a gallon and a half daily with nute feeds twice a week*
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Seconda settimana.tra pochi giorni toppero anche queste
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Planted seeds June 12th at 12:26am. While germinating the seeds and during the night time I will be keeping them all in a 2x2x5 grow tent under three 2 foot T5 bulbs to maintain a 24 hour light cycle. I am also using a seedling heat mat to raise the root zone temperature, along with creating a humid environment. Three seeds are visible from peat pellets June 14th at 8am. Last seed is visible through medium at 5pm. All plants sprouted with cotyledon leaves June 15th at 11am. Transplanted all the plants into 5 gallon fabric pots with pre-amended medium at June 17th. Three plants have first leaves forming, while one seems to be a little behind. Gave a light watering, along with heavy misting on the soil. Last plants first leaves started forming June 18 at 7pm. All plants are progressing well with minimal stretching. All 4 plants have their 2nd set of leaves starting to grow June 20th at 12pm. Put outside right at 12pm, then brought them inside at 9:30pm. Put outside June 21st at 1pm Watered them lightly twice with several hour gap in between. All leaves are praying up and all growth is progressing. Put inside at 11pm.
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🍼Greenhouse Feeding BioGrow & Bio Bloom 🌱GARDEN OF GREEN SEEDS ⛺️MARSHYDRO The ⛺️ has a small door 🚪 on the sides which is useful for mid section groom room work. 🤩 ☀️ by VIPARSPECTRA (models: P2000 & XS 2000)
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Another week goes ... We are in the eighth week, I think from next week I will start with AN Overdrive and the ripening phase begins, of course I will ask for advice here, but I think the time has come 💥🍀 everything runs smoothly, stable pH 6.2 and EC 2.8 the same, they drink a lot but everything balances well. that's all for now, but I'm starting to get impatient 🤞🍕🔫🍀😜 I wish you a lot of fun and good growth buddy! 🤜🏼🤛🏼
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On week 7 of the vegetative stage the plant is stretching more & the root system seems to be expanding in the 14L pot nicely along with some side branches coming from the lower nodes and on the 8th-10th set of leaves
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@Hawkbo
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These are just about done, I chopped the first grape god in the 1 gallon bag yesterday. I started the flush way too early because the 1 gal needed it and I didnt feel like mixing separate feeds so I just hit them all. So the leaves are crispy and crinkly but the nugs will be clean and smooth so it's all good just wont get the best pics out of it. I love these little autos they are frosty as hell and have some beautiful buds. The rest will come down this week doing the final flush today.
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From sprout, I've been watering every 3-4 days. Been very consistent with this. Yellow tips been appearing. I think it could be Magnesium or Calcium deficiency. Hit it with some Calmag with iron.
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Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.
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Have been folial feeding with 1/4 strenght nutes and cal mend to treat deficiencies. Did a resevoir change Feb 14. Added 2.5 ml per gallon each of Floragro, Floramicro, and Florabloom. 10 ml per gallon calmag. 8 ml per gallon B-52 and 1/2 tsp RAW microbes. pH balanced to 5.63. 24 hours after Reservoir change pH was at 6.3 and there was some brown residue on the roots. I ph balanced back down to 5.6 and rinsed off the roots gently in the reservoir. Is the Brown Gunk nutrient build up on the roots?
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Plants began showing pre-flowers this week, officially the start of flowering.
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@CheeRz
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It's week eight of flowering, and Purple Punch x Lemon Drizzle has developed really nicely. The buds are relatively thick and firm, and the sweet aroma got me looking forward to the first taste test. Unfortunately, Lemon Cherry Gelato has not developed as well. The buds are not as thick and firm as I would like yet, but the smell is truly breathtaking.
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Esto marcha, empieza a engordar muy bien, en el próximo riego empezamos con melaza para la resina
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Week 11, D71 Flower Day 41. She's super frosty. And very sticky and sticky. Smells of fresh cut strawberries and a light musky sweet earthy smell. Not a whole lot of bud, but what's there is tops by the looks of it. I'm hoping this is going to be the A grade bud I've been looking for. Plant has been thrown into soft flush. Been given terra powers finisher. 1ml/L 150 ppm and ph + adjusted to 6.7. Should of just let it grow normal. Lessons learnt. But overall I'm very happy with the results, all a bit lacking but frosty and smells stawlishes. COUPON CODE FOR MARS!! Use Code GGS to get a small discount at any marshydro site. Thanks to everyone who followed and commented. It's been a fun grow. Little bit of light nutrient burn other than that, I've had 0 problems. Not 1 def, standing tall since she's in the ground. Even though she wasn't let grow o'natural I've seen what I can get, 1 main top cola and smaller colas on the side instead of 50-70cm small plants. Hopefully I'll get 50-70cm nodes with a big ass frosty cola on my next run, and then I'll be able to say for sure, that topping isn't the way to go with autos. As I've topped every single 1 I've grown and the tallest plant I could get was 90cm. Either it's the topping or not grown to its peak performance. HARVEST DAY. She's frosty. I've seen more frosty SG but I'm happy with this with how I crippled her growth. But in stunning her height I do think I've made for some A grade Bud up top. There is some airy bud at the very end. But she's the most potent FB have, so I'm expecting 🔥. Thanks for reading, be sure to drop a like so I can visit your grows my friends. Either way, thanks for dropping by. gottagrowsometime
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Seguimos otra semana más del seguimiento del jardín interior de amnesias haze! Las chicas lucen fantásticas bajo la iluminación de 1580w en led que tenemos en este espacio. Estamos aplicando una subida de EC que se me fue un poco la mano en el anterior riego no dándoles la trancision que quería,ya que le agregué más 100l con una ec final de casi 2,1 Este riego es más aporte de vitaminas junto azúcares y encinas acompañado como siempre del abono base y calmag Espero en el fin de semana agregar otro riego de 75l con la primera carga de monsterbloom si ya veo que pueda aplicarse por un desarrollo avanzado de la flor,no quiero generar bloqueos con ese aditivo. Por lo demás este cultivo haciendo comparaciones va a romper en producción. El desarrollo de las flores en casi el 80% del armario es increíble,vamos a ver grandes flores y espero que muy resinosas y compactas.
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@sellem
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This week marks the present day at the time of writing since i started the journal on here on oct 6th. Plant A also started to purple up real good. Plant B overall is a few days ahead in flower production i would say, Plant A also stretched for a day or so more - but im happy as to how absolutely even and similiar they grow. Really been an absolute blast and treat so far. Hats off to fastbuds! I stayed at 2.5L watering dosages, Ramping up Grow and Activera to 3 ml/L according to the biobizz schedule. PH in stays at 6,5, Drain stays at 6.1 for both plants. Im happy. They do be looking absolutely gorgeous in my eyes! i kept and keep on lightly defoliating them on watering days, sometimes also in between, but now mainly the small leaves of the bushwork inside that dont receive any light at all. Also, i got a new webcam for better quality timelapse shenanigans. yay! PPFD now sits at around 1000.
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@GuguRJ
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spider mite and tripes atack, but now is controled whit copper sulfate and sulfur.
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@Visions
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I believe this will be the last week this girl will stretch. Shes got arm buds at the ready and will be full on flower from here on out. In going to keep her nitrogen at a high for these next two weeks and dip out after mid week 6 and keep it just bloom shiz. She is gorgeous with 7 main colas. Would be easily 12 but one main got snapped due to her topping her own self(stakes). Yes these girls can do that. They will drive thsy stake out the ground and the California gold in my other diary did the same as well. The effort/force topped them so I lost some branches and instead took a loss. I love her and it's so crazy how she started out small. 1 gallon is blooming out. Stripped all lower sites to a degrees none of that garbage yah here. 3 gallon just got some orange hairs. We are now beginning to fall out of the stretch.