1/1/22 - just looked 1/2 - watered 1/3 - just looked 1/4 - just looked 1/5 - Just looked 1/6 - Cut

I've cut down on grow at this point as the soil seems to have a lot. I'll feed for another week then think about Flushing. The kalimist will keep getting fed bloom and grow as its only been flowering for about 3 weeks due to taking longer to force flower.

FERMAKOR BARREL MIX – BASE IN USE (Testing on the Fantasy Feast girl we pulled out of another diary https://growdiaries.com/diaries/274722-grow-journal-by-yan402 ) (FERMAKOR BASE SYSTEM KOH VERSION diary https://growdiaries.com/diaries/278391-grow-journal-by-yan402) (Urea & Micros on the way — first week running without them) 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 30 L Barrel – Current Working Mix 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 Step 1 – Calcium Nitrate (Part A) 7 L warm water (~35–40 °C) → added 45 g Calcinit, stirred until fully clear. That’s the calcium + nitrogen backbone for the feed. Step 2 – FERMAKOR PK Base (Part B) 15 L water in the main barrel → added 30 ml FERMAKOR PK Concentrate, mixed well. This forms the main P + K part of the formula. Step 3 – Combine Solutions Slowly poured the Calcinit mix into the barrel while stirring — no reaction, still crystal clear. That confirms the mix is stable and precipitation-free. 🌿 Step 4 – FPJ / FFJ Batch Added 30 ml homemade FPJ (fish + veg batch) ≈ 1 ml/L. Color shifted to a light-amber tone — looks alive and active. 🍋 Step 5 – Citric Acid Balance Added 1 tsp citric acid after everything was blended to fine-tune pH and help chelate micros later on. 📦 Step 6 – Top Up & Check Filled to the 30 L mark with plain water → pH tested with drops, showing yellow-green — roughly 5.8 – 6.0 range. Nice clean look, stable smell, no residue. 💧 Current Base Ingredients (Active Mix) Warm Water ≈ 22 L total Calcinit 45 g → N + Ca foundation FERMAKOR PK Base 30 ml → P + K support Citric Acid 1 tsp → Chelation + pH balance FPJ / Fish Emulsion 30 ml → Organic enzyme booster Result: clean amber mix, mild and balanced. I’ll let this version run for a week before adding anything. 👀👀👀👀👀👀 Observations and changes 👀👀👀👀👀👀 27.10.25 VW27 noticed some min burnt tips so I decreased Calcium Nitrate 45 to → 40g, decided to add two more elements micros and Epsom salts just to make sure they got everything, Fetrilon Combi 1 (Micros): 0.5 g, Epsom salts: 8 g 28.10.25 VW27 she seems devoid of any deficiencies, seems ready for the flip to 12/12 02.11.25 VW27 girl is looking good so I decided to stop making daily videos and do a standard once a week update. 09.11.25 aVW28 7 days since flip,stretch in full swing, first pistils showing, leaf color deep and healthy. Slight tip burn early week → gone after pH stabilized. Feed stayed clear, no residue, roots clean and sweet-smelling, did what I hope is a last cleanup and pruning🎥 10.11.25 VW29 added Phosphoric acid pH down to the schedule for flowering stage. 14.11.25 FW1 FERMAKOR PK Micros 40 → 50 ml 23.11.25 FW2 got some burnt tips, observe and act accordingly in case it worsens, diluted by 25% for this week. 05.12.25 FW3 about 2 weeks ago Calcium Nitrate 35 g → 25 g, FERMAKOR PK Micros 50 ml → 60 ml 12.12.25 FW4 Calcium Nitrate 25 g → 20 g, FERMAKOR PK Micros 60 ml → 80ml 16.12.25 FW4 Calcium Nitrate 20 g → 17 g, FERMAKOR PK Micros 80 ml → 110 ml 🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱 🌿 Day to day tasks & actions 🌿 🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱 Fed about 5l a day of #1 and on the weekends I do a pure FERMAKOR PK flush 2l runoff (*RUNOFF reused for tomato plants) 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 🌱 Nutrients in 30 L #1 Veg – FERMAKOR 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 Calcium Nitrate (Calcinit / Nitcal): 45 → 40 g → 35 g → 25 g → 20 g → 17 g = 1.50 g/L → 1.33 g/L → 1.17 g/L → 0.83 g/L → 0.67 g/L → 0.57 g/L = 207 ppm N / 253 ppm Ca → 184 / 225 → 161 / 197 → 115 / 141 → 92 / 113 → 78 / 96 PK Concentrate (FERMAKOR Base): 30 → 40 ml → 50 ml → 60 ml → 80 ml → 110 ml = 1.00 → 1.33 ml/L → 1.67 ml/L → 2.00 ml/L → 2.67 ml/L → 3.67 ml/L → balanced 1:1 P:K + light micros (from extract) Home-made FFJ/FPJ (Fish + Veg): 30 ml = 1.00 ml/L Epsom Salt (MgSO₄·7H₂O): 8 g = 0.27 g/L → ~26 ppm Mg + ~35 ppm S Fetrilon Combi 1 (Micros): 0.5 g = 0.017 g/L → Fe 0.7 ppm · Mn 0.7 ppm · Zn 0.3 ppm · Cu 0.3 ppm · B 0.1 ppm · Mo 0.02 ppm Phosphoric Acid (pH down) + Citric Acid (chelation): as needed → First set pH with phosphoric acid, then add a little citric only if you want extra chelation Target pH: 5.8 – 6.0 (drop test yellow-green) 📦 TOTAL: Liquids: 60 → 70 → 80 → 90 → 110 → 140 ml per 30 L = 2.00 → 2.33 → 2.67 → 3.00 → 3.67 → 4.67 ml/L Solids (CaNO₃ + Epsom + Fetrilon): 53.5 → 48.5 → 43.5 → 33.5 → 28.5 → 25.5 g per 30 L = 1.78 → 1.62 → 1.45 → 1.12 → 0.95 → 0.85 g/L YouTube Link: https://youtube.com/-m8h?si=A7x4Zlr2kj-_ga31

Started to flush this plant hope she will grow during this final stage

12/12 + 19 jours 1️⃣ 🏠 90x60x90 ☀️ FC-E 4800 => puissance a 30% 🍁 1x Black Bomb / Philosopher Seed 2x Amnesia Lemon / PEV Seeds 1x Blueberry / PEV Seeds 1x Blueberry / 00 Seeds 1x Wappa / Paradise Seed 1x Dark Phoenix / Green House Seed 1x Quick Sherbet / Exotic Seeds 1x Mango Cream / Exotic Seeds 1x Banana Frosting / Sensi Seed 1x Hindu Kush / Sensi Seed 4x Fast Mix / Sweet Seed 📎 https://growdiaries.com/diaries/122084-grow-journal-by-soosan 📎https://growdiaries.com/diaries/124052-grow-journal-by-soosan 2️⃣ 🏠 30x60x50 ☀️TS1000 => puissance a 60% 🍁 4x Quick Sherbet - Exotic Seed 📎 https://growdiaries.com/diaries/122080-grow-journal-by-soosan Sponsorisé par Mars Hydro

Update week 6

Week 6 of to a good start! They look happy and healthy. Time to flip to flower soon! 👽👉3/10 Climate is automated and working accordingly to my adjusted VPD settings. Happy and healthy, actually surprised they've grown so much lately. 👽👉4/10 Waiting for their complete recovery, so they can be flipped to flower (Defoliation the 30/9, im giving them about a week) 👽👉5/10 Water day* Plain ph balanced water. Need Runoff PH and EC down a little bit. 👽👉6/10 I applied the SCROG net. 👽👉7/10 Doing some minor tweaks to the setup + VPD settings(from 1.0 to 1.1). Approaching the flip to flower, so VPD Did a bit of defoliation before the flip next week 👽👉8/10 Today, i learned from research on biobizz nutrients https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/biobizz-nutrients-answers-from-biobizz.78899/ (Direct answer from biobizz) With the answers, my view on feeding biobizz changed a bit, and i was luckily about to switch up the nutes. Good timing. Waterday* PH6.2 Introducing Biobizz CalMag(0.5ml/l) + BioBloom(0.25ml/l)+Topmax(0.25ml/l)+Rootjuice(0.25ml/l) Still 2ml/L Fishmix+BioHeaven(Fishmix will be switched out with BioGrow) 👽👉 9/10 Last day of the week for my plants and last day in veg! They look fantastic and well recovered at lights on! (Look at the before/after lights vids/pics) Raised VPD by 0.1: VPD settings(from 1.1 to 1.2)

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Wir sind in Woche 4 ! Konnte die vierte nicht auswählen ! Man sieht so sehr gut den Unterschied von 3 Woche auf 4 Woche. Im Video 2 sieht man sogar schon wie es langsam harzig wird an den zuckerblättern

I decided to extend 1 more week the flowering cycle since i think they can get fatter. For an auto the size is great to me compared to the other growers. They are eating alot so i will cut the week to 6 days and i will add UVB light supplement for 6 hours in the last 2 days of the week. So for Friday and Saturday.

First day of week 6, I will be adding content as the week progresses, have a look at week 5 as that is now complete. Status: Candy Kush #1 d36 - Looking awesome, some pistils showing. Was too bushy so did some LST and slight defoliation today with supercrop on 1 branch. Candy Kush #2 d36 - Looks like nitrogen deficiency is sorted, now I have excess? :D see the clawing tips? Gonna stick with the current feed, hopefully she'll overcome otherwise I'll flush her once if things get worse. Bubble Kush d32 - Amazing, nothing to report, some tucking done Fastberry d32 - Looking as weird as ever, some tucking done Sugar Mama d36 - growing and getting really bushy, shame about the mess I did with the roots/stem but she is doing ok now. ---- Fed 2nd day of weeks 6 (day 37), 3ml biogrow 2ml calmag. pH was at 6.5 Ec was at 1.5. New leaves are really yellow in candy Kush 2, iron deficiency? Not sure what is happening, will be monitoring. ---- Day 38, Removed the yellow leaves and a little defoliation on all the plants ---- Day 39, Raised the shorter plants so they get some more lights. All of them have finished 35 days (5 weeks from seedling today) and are looking great. Feed the same, although they still look very bright, brighter than I am used to. ---- Day 41, Feeding time, started giving them bloom at 5ml/l and the other normal dosages as in diary. ---- Day 42, End of week 6 The girls are all looking great, there is is so much hair on the buds, haven't seen so much with outdoor grows. Exciting :D Sugar mama is way too bushy and not getting taller. The new blades are too thin, maybe I'm overfeeding her (only biogrow+calmag)? defoliated her, lots of fan leaves removes, she is asking for some training, I've ordered plant tie and will do some LST when delivered. Fastberry also had a couple of leaves removed All kushs doing great Thanks for reading and happy growing!

Woche 9 und auf einmal waren es nur noch 3 Pflanzen. Viel zu spät haben wir erkannt wo das Problem der einen Weddingcheesecake lag, durch den extremen Stress und der massiven Überdüngung (volles BioBizz Light Schema) hat die Pflanze sich zum Hemaphodite entwickelt... RIP Holy

Hi, the plants are dry, they weigh a total of 38g clean and it smells of babolgame and lemon and from the scraps or made dry shift hash

7th week is here. They are good looking girls! Some weeks left to be finished ! Water 100 ml 2x a day per plant. Fertilization on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday with the same amount of water. Light schedule 20/4 with 600 W and ventilation goes on when the lamp works. Day 52: All good, some yellow leaves can be seen at the bottom of the biggest plant it matures quicker than the others I think it started using the energy out of the lower leaves to produce more buds. I will remove it later. Day 55: I couldn't come yesterday so my friend did water them. I am here now in the morning ing. Flowers developing nicely among the stamps. The bigges one start getting yellow it matures quicker than the other ones. Day 56: I removed unwanted yellow and dead leaves and also tied the plant from different angles to get more light. They look good now, they are spread. Plants are really nice and the flowers keep coming! Now it is gonna be better air flowing and the light also reach deeper parts at the bottom and all over the plants!

Empieza la 4a semana de crecimiento, parece que todo va bien. Los riegos seguiran siendo uno con nutrientes y el siguiente sera los restos del primero rebajados con agua , ya que preparo 8 l y no los gastan. Dia 25 crecimiento 400ml x planta Dia 26 crecimiento pulverizo con barrier y green explosion de top crop. Dia 27 crecimiento 400ml x planta Dia 29 crecimiento 400ml x planta

The girl looks really good, strong thick branches, which I wanted to bend a little more, but I don't have the space for that :D :D The girl hasn't started to show her flowers yet, but I think that in a few days, it should appear :) good luck to everyone.

The weather is suddenly getting pretty cold outside so I have to take the plant inside so she can sleep in a warm place. The next few days should get warm again Found a bug on my plant on Sept. 24th, think they might be thrips After removing the bug I sprinkled the plant with a rape oil and water solution