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@Clutch
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Hey everyone An average week. Jack 2 still doing her best and she is whitout a doubt the best girl of this round. All buds are swelling up and are looking very frosty. she is in her final period now. Gave one last feeding with nutrients and from now on its flushing time. By the end of the week (maybe 10 days) I will chop and harvest her. The night/early morning humidity is pretty high too. Around 90%... Wich brings me too NL 1 😪 NL 1 is another story Remember I said last week I found some budrot... Well it has spread to some lower buds too so I decided to end this grow. There will be something left to save but not much. It's not for me anymore too. Gonna give her away. I'm not a fan of plants that have rot in anyway haha. I still can't blame the plant herself. She had rough conditions and a stupid accident caused by me. Still a bit sad because she looked fantastic in the beginning. Oh well Will still do the harvest report next week but not sure if she will be still here then. All focus on Jack 2 now 🙂 Another grow to learn from Happy growing friends, see u next week 😉🙏
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What can I say she’s a beast and she’s swelling well for a viparspectra 450w n galaxy hydro 300w rotated on her And she only going to get fatter Ive been feeding her extra nutes and she’s been responding welll I almost ran in to an issue I was out of ph up and. She was super light when i picked her up there Isn’t hydroponic store around me so I googled and found out baking soda can be used as a ph up so Sum. Improv. But she’s fattening up and prolly 40 %of the hairs are orange so im gone to push for one more week and then begin to flush
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Day 28. First signs of preflower. Day 31. Continuing with general Hydroponics maxigro every other watering.
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Went away for a week but no massive problems and she's oretty resilient so happy days! Few more weeks hoping for a bit more bulk in the buds.!
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@Noeynoe
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Shes looking ok, but again I wish I would have let her veg more and did more manicuring, lsting. The next run will be nicer from what I’m seeing with the cuttings I took. Thanks to all of you following and commenting. It gives me confidence in what I do, ✌️🏼❤️🙏🏼
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Another week and she is pumping nicely. As always I use Spa Reine mineral water. I cut away some leaves again and a few small side branches at the bottom, As always, I apply cinnamon to the wounds. With LST I'm giving the branches more light space. I am very satisfied with this strain, hopefully the buds will be thick and compact. Let's see how she develops this week. I will update fresh photos throughout the week.
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Wakíŋyaŋ, I am who I am, the salt of the earth. Thunderbird is an allegory; his conflicts with other forces in nature are then an attempt to allegorize relationships observed in the natural order, such as the changing of the weather. He is essentially an attempt to represent the patterns of activity of a powerful, mysterious force in a way that can be understood simply and easily – sort of the way in which a weather map functions today. Moving from18x60x60 = 64,800 seconds in 18 hours. 64800x860(ppfd) = 55,728,000 umol per daylight. Into Flower 12x60x60 = 43,200 seconds in 12 hours. 43200x1145(ppfd) = 49,464,000 umol per daylight. It's asking a lot of Rubisco regeneration to maintain 50 DLI in the 12 instead of 18. Raised the ambient CO2 to 1200 to 1500 ppm to achieve efficient gas exchange. I don't recommend. Adding sugar to an indoor growing medium is a highly effective way to stimulate microbial activity, which rapidly breaks down the sugars and releases CO2 through cellular respiration. You can safely capture this CO2 to fertilize indoor crops and boost photosynthesis. While this process works, the setup requires precise management to avoid common indoor growing hazards. The plant Carbon to Nitrogen C:N ratio defines the balance between structural carbon (sugars/cellulose) and nitrogen (proteins/enzymes). It acts as a master regulator of plant health, growth, and metabolism. Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) is the engine of photosynthesis responsible for fixing atmospheric CO2 into sugars. It is intimately tied to the C:N ratio for three primary reasons. It is the Plant’s Biggest Nitrogen Sink, Drives the Carbon Side, and it is the Nitrogen Control Knob. Understanding this relationship allows you to predict how plants respond to environmental stress or fertilizer. Rubisco acts as the primary storage sink for leaf nitrogen, accounting for up to 30% to 50% of a C3 plant's soluble protein. Deep Green Leaves signal a rich abundance of both chlorophyll and Rubisco proteins. The plant possesses the heavy enzymatic machinery required to handle 1145 PPFD. Pale or yellowing leaves indicate a nitrogen deficiency. The plant is actively breaking down its own Rubisco to salvage nitrogen for newer growth, drastically reducing its light-tolerance threshold. Subtle difference, but understanding is important in order to be able to judge when to dial light intensity up and light intensity down, when to push, and when to back off. An extra dose of magnesium is vital if a plant is going to push through the growing pains of high-intensity lighting. Foliar application of magnesium is an excellent and rapid way to assist with Rubisco regeneration within a plant, so long as it is applied correctly. Spray strictly in the early morning or late evening, mixing your magnesium with a little fulvic acid or chelator, but only when she gets a little limey on top. This, for me, is the experience of growing, akin to "riding the surf" maintaining efficient Rubisco regeneration through visual identification of the shade of green. Surf a razor-thin wave when balancing light intensity, nutrient availability, and transpiration to maximize Rubisco enzyme efficiency. Keeping the Calvin cycle fully charged without tipping into nutrient toxicity, light stress, or the dreaded chlorosis requires paying close attention to the visual cues the plant provides. By monitoring these subtle shifts in color, turgor pressure, and leaf posture, you adjust your environmental controls and surf that exact razor-thin wave. Nute recycling acts as the vital execution mechanism for autophagy, which defines senescence. Natural senescence is a genetically programmed developmental stage aimed at nutrient recycling, whereas triggered autophagy is a rapid survival response activated by environmental stress. While both processes utilize the vacuole to break down cellular material, their triggers, selectivity, and overall goals are entirely different. Cannabis plant senescence is not separate from nutrient recycling protocols; rather, nutrient recycling is the primary physiological purpose of senescence, and autophagy serves as the core switch mechanism executing both processes. Takes about 24 to 48 hours to notice visible changes once the signals have initiated the autophagic response. Not too late at all. A little bit of fade from senescence 2 weeks from harvest is normal and genetically expected. Send the C:N 32:1 signal 1 week from harvest for the best effect in your organic grow. Understanding what makes leaves fade is not always senescence, but also strongly linked to Rubisco regeneration. That's a whole other subject. Vital to understand the differences if you want a correct diagnosis and to transition from hobby grower to master stoner, differentiating between a true genetic fade and a decline in photosynthetic proteins. Nitrate is nitrate, whether it oxidizes or not is not up for debate. If it's not sunk by the plant you are smoking some if not all of, it's regardless of what your feelings are on the matter. Senescence is highly critical. It is the natural end-of-life stage where the plant redirects energy to ripen flowers. Properly managed, it breaks down harsh chlorophyll, allowing the terpenes (which provide taste and aroma) to peak. Harvesting outside this window leads to an "unripe" or degraded flavor comparable to going without. To initiate the response you seek, you can trigger it multiple ways, when growing synthetically its triggered by nutrient starvation, generally when the entire medium is flushed. This is more to do with N starvation than being entirely empty. Nonetheless. PK boosters are N starvation through maximizing P and K. (Generally only works for synthetic grows) Because you are using organic nutes and you want to maintain the rhizosphere, what you want to do is add carbon in the form of sugars (powdered molasses). It's almost impossible to empty a medium enough when microorganisms are constantly releasing nutrients into the direct EC. Very difficult to initiate starvation responses with ammoniacal nitrogen. Manipulating the C:N ratio is the key to triggering an autophagic response and resulting nutrient recycling in the last days using organic nutes and without having to flush. Generally not recommended for new growers. So do what you want. But if you don't trigger the plant to dump its nitrates into root zones, you will smoke nitrates as NO3- does not oxidize during the dry and cure no matter what you do or how long you dry or cure. Doesn't matter what anyone "feels" about it, how many grows they had with no fade. "Clover steals valuable nutrients." Crop and drop the clover come flipping to flower, its benefit comes from creating an airy and porous rootzone. I don't need to crop and drop once the plant fills the canopy, she blotches out the light, and the clovers die. This is the nitrogen the microorganisms use to convert carbon for respiration throughout the flowering stage.
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@Njaak
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One out of two germinated seeds have now sprouted. Started the seedling nutrient diet. As you can see, I've moved the rockwool cube to the hydro setup. The tap root was showing so it was time. My nutrient schedule is in the pictures. For reference, I'm using a total volume of 24 L between the two buckets. For now we're enjoying the summer harvest. Well, we are harvesting. A lot. I'm questioning my sanity growing yet more, lol. I do it for the fun and glory. Also, yay pot!
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! this is my current status, gonna upload my last veg weeks within the next week - got a bit busy around Spannabis - thank you for your understanding! 💚 Welcome to Bud Boutique Grow Diary - really appreciate all your love and support :) Dont forget to check out my other current grows! 🗓️ This Week: - Day 17: Transition moving on - Day 20: started K - Boost - Day 21: strong (last) Defoliation after lollipopping before in last week of veg. Ive got rid of the lower bud sights (popcorn buds) and focusing on Mainbuds only. Thank you for still staying with me 💚 ___________________________________________ --- 🌱 Strain (Sponsor) 🌱 --- 🏷️ PEACH GIRL by Art Genetix https://www.artgenetix.world/product-page/peach-girl --- 🥗 Nutrients and Feeding (sponsored by APTUS: APTUS Ambassador) --- 🍸 APTUS: full nutrient schedule extreme -- Regulator, N-Boost, P-Boost, CaMg-Boost, K-Boost, Allin1 Liquid, Startbooster, Topbooster, Enzym+ every feeding -- Fulvic-Blast, NutriSpray as Foliar each once a week 🔗 https://aptus-holland.com/ --- ♻️ Grow Control (Sponsor) --- TROLMASTER: TENT-X + LM14 Light Adapter to dim/sunrise/sunset lights + Temp & rH Sensor all remote on App 🔗 https://www.trolmaster.eu/ --- 🏭 Grow Setup --- 💡LUMATEK Zeus Pro 600 * 🏠🌿 Indoor: Homebox 120x120x200cm (4x4) * 📐🌀 PrimaKlima exhausting Fan 1180m3/h (running on 60-80%) * 🌀 Can Light Filter 800m3/h & 1x Fanbox 1x Dyson fan for Air circulation 🔗 https://lumatek-lighting.com/zeus-600w-pro-29/ 🔗 https://primaklima.com/de/shop/ventilatoren-de/ec-ventilatoren/pk160ec-tc/ 🔗 https://canfilters.com/products/filters/ All Likes and comments are highly appreciated!!! 👨‍🌾 don't forget to check out my Instagram for daily educational content: budboutiquee - Bud Boutique
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Lst e troca de fotoperiodo para 12 horas de luz e 12 horas de Escuro
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This is it for the Blueberry Auto from i49, I am completely Happy with the turn out, came in a a bit hot at the end but the buds are fine and flushed
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@FarmerT
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Both front lsd25 autos are growing good the back left big bud auto is doing great and the cherry cola on the back right is slow but showing signs of growth(4 days behind others)
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they start to show the final structure have cropped whit lst