Despite the problem with my humidifier stopping working, the genetics adapted well to these conditions; only one of the plants showed signs of stress which were corrected in the new growth, I don't have the money for a new one, so I'm going to continue growing it this way. I hope everything turns out alright.

The plant that is in the autopot system is 20 inches tall (grew about 7 inches in a week) and i call it #1, and #2 indoors; #3 is outside. #1 and #3 are identical in physical traits. Beautiful plant overall. This is Day 21 is the last day ill do a;ot of training

happy and healthy little plant on day 26, im mostly getting smells of pine off this girl so far. hoping for more blueberry to show out

plants were majorly defoliated and are flowering awesomely! just the small one is showing some deficiencies due to unstable pH ---- mid week update: i am becoming kind of concerned about buds themselves – they seem rather small at this stage 😳

Skunk apple runtz a random cross made by me. It's starting to root well. I can see it's roots coming out the bottom the pot already and there thick roots. The leaves on this plant have took a little stress the past week from the rh being off. It seems to like being topped it's pushing out new growth quite strong. This past week all the plants did great dealing with getting repotted and topped in the same week. I definitely took a Rick doing that seeing i only left each plant with 4 leaves. This past week was also a struggle to keep the vpd in a decent range. The Temps outside have been below 32 for a few days with Temps dipping down to almost 0 at night. With the space heater running it's pulling the humidity down. I think I have figured out the solution to that problem so I won't run into that next time it gets cold again. All the plants have really started to grow their new branches sense being topped. A few of the plants are a little smaller than I'd like but I'm gonna keep em alive for now.

Tied down in a second place now, going to tie it in a full circle just for something to try before I top it.

Update last week of Goofiez 2 the harvest is coming!!!

Defoliated all around tops to bring the main canopy of fan leaves below this (at strip level). Hoping this results in light reaching all parts of all available bud sites. Fingers crossed! This girl is a beast. I've read this strain can be problematic but I've not noticed any issues whatsoever. Been an absolute beauty to grow and I hope she turns out good in all aspects as I'll be preserving the pheno if so.

Yellow butterfly came to see me the other day; that was nice. Starting to show signs of stress on the odd leaf, localized isolated blips, blemishes, who said growing up was going to be easy! Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata. Leaf size tends to decrease in colder climates to reduce heat loss, while larger leaves are more common in warmer, humid environments. Plants in arid regions often develop smaller leaves with a thicker cuticle and/or hairs to minimize water loss through transpiration. Conversely, plants in wet environments may have larger leaves and drip tips to facilitate water runoff. Leaf size and shape can vary based on light availability. For example, leaves in shaded areas may be larger and thinner to maximize light absorption. Leaf mass per area (LMA) can be higher in stressful environments with limited nutrients, indicating a greater investment in structural components for protection and critical resource conservation. Wind speed, humidity, and soil conditions can also influence leaf morphology, leading to variations in leaf shape, size, and surface characteristics. Small leaves: Reduce water loss in arid or cold climates. Environmental conditions significantly affect gene expression in plants. Plants are sessile organisms, meaning they cannot move to escape unfavorable conditions, so they rely on gene expression to adapt to their surroundings. Environmental factors like light, temperature, water, and nutrient availability can trigger changes in gene expression, allowing plants to respond to and survive in diverse environments. Depending on the environment a young seedling encounters, the developmental program following seed germination could be skotomorphogenesis in the dark or photomorphogenesis in the light. Light signals are interpreted by a repertoire of photoreceptors followed by sophisticated gene expression networks, eventually resulting in developmental changes. The expression and functions of photoreceptors and key signaling molecules are highly coordinated and regulated at multiple levels of the central dogma in molecular biology. Light activates gene expression through the actions of positive transcriptional regulators and the relaxation of chromatin by histone acetylation. Small regulatory RNAs help attenuate the expression of light-responsive genes. Alternative splicing, protein phosphorylation/dephosphorylation, the formation of diverse transcriptional complexes, and selective protein degradation all contribute to proteome diversity and change the functions of individual proteins. Photomorphogenesis, the light-driven developmental changes in plants, significantly impacts gene expression. It involves a cascade of events where light signals, perceived by photoreceptors, trigger changes in gene expression patterns, ultimately leading to the development of a plant in response to its light environment. Genes are expressed, not dictated! While having the potential to encode proteins, genes are not automatically and constantly active. Instead, their expression (the process of turning them into proteins) is carefully regulated by the cell, responding to internal and external signals. This means that genes can be "turned on" or "turned off," and the level of expression can be adjusted, depending on the cell's needs and the surrounding environment. In plants, genes are not simply "on" or "off" but rather their expression is carefully regulated based on various factors, including the cell type, developmental stage, and environmental conditions. This means that while all cells in a plant contain the same genetic information (the same genes), different cells will express different subsets of those genes at different times. This regulation is crucial for the proper functioning and development of the plant. When a green plant is exposed to red light, much of the red light is absorbed, but some is also reflected back. The reflected red light, along with any blue light reflected from other parts of the plant, can be perceived by our eyes as purple. Carotenoids absorb light in blue-green region of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red region. They safeguard the photosynthetic machinery from excessive light by activating singlet oxygen, an oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids also quench triplet chlorophyll, which can negatively affect photosynthesis, and scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can damage cellular proteins. Additionally, carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. They serve as precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones such as abscisic acid () and strigolactones (SLs). These pigments are responsible for the orange, red, and yellow hues of fruits and vegetables, while acting as free scavengers to protect plants during photosynthesis. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is an electronically excited state of molecular oxygen (O₂). Singlet oxygen is produced as a byproduct during photosynthesis, primarily within the photosystem II (PSII) reaction center and light-harvesting antenna complex. This occurs when excess energy from excited chlorophyll molecules is transferred to molecular oxygen. While singlet oxygen can cause oxidative damage, plants have mechanisms to manage its production and mitigate its harmful effects. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is considered a reactive oxygen species (ROS). It's a form of oxygen with higher energy and reactivity compared to the more common triplet oxygen found in its ground state. Singlet oxygen is generated both in biological systems, such as during photosynthesis in plants, and in cellular processes, and through chemical and photochemical reactions. While singlet oxygen is a ROS, it's important to note that it differs from other ROS like superoxide (O₂⁻), hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), and hydroxyl radicals (OH) in its formation, reactivity, and specific biological roles. Non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) protects plants from damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) by dissipating excess light energy as heat. This process reduces the overexcitation of photosynthetic pigments, which can lead to the production of ROS, thus mitigating the potential for photodamage. Zeaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment, plays a crucial role in photoprotection in plants by both enhancing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS). In high-light conditions, zeaxanthin is synthesized from violaxanthin through the xanthophyll cycle, and this zeaxanthin then facilitates heat dissipation of excess light energy (NPQ) and quenches harmful ROS. The Issue of Singlet Oxygen!! ROS Formation: Blue light, with its higher energy photons, can promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), including singlet oxygen, within the plant. Potential Damage: High levels of ROS can damage cellular components, including proteins, lipids, and DNA, potentially impacting plant health and productivity. Balancing Act: A balanced spectrum of light, including both blue and red light, is crucial for mitigating the harmful effects of excessive blue light and promoting optimal plant growth and stress tolerance. The Importance of Red Light: Red light (especially far-red) can help to mitigate the negative effects of excessive blue light by: Balancing the Photoreceptor Response: Red light can influence the activity of photoreceptors like phytochrome, which are involved in regulating plant responses to different light wavelengths. Enhancing Antioxidant Production: Red and blue light can stimulate the production of antioxidants, which help to neutralize ROS and protect the plant from oxidative damage. Optimizing Photosynthesis: Red light is efficiently used in photosynthesis, and its combination with blue light can lead to increased photosynthetic efficiency and biomass production. In controlled environments like greenhouses and vertical farms, optimizing the ratio of blue and red light is a key strategy for promoting healthy plant growth and yield. Understanding the interplay between blue light signaling, ROS production, and antioxidant defense mechanisms can inform breeding programs and biotechnological interventions aimed at improving plant stress resistance. In summary, while blue light is essential for plant development and photosynthesis, it's crucial to balance it with other light wavelengths, particularly red light, to prevent excessive ROS formation and promote overall plant health. Oxidative damage in plants occurs when there's an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the plant's ability to neutralize them, leading to cellular damage. This imbalance, known as oxidative stress, can result from various environmental stressors, affecting plant growth, development, and overall productivity. Causes of Oxidative Damage: Abiotic stresses: These include extreme temperatures (heat and cold), drought, salinity, heavy metal toxicity, and excessive light. Biotic stresses: Pathogen attacks and insect infestations can also trigger oxidative stress. Metabolic processes: Normal cellular activities, particularly in chloroplasts, mitochondria, and peroxisomes, can generate ROS as byproducts. Certain chlorophyll biosynthesis intermediates can produce singlet oxygen (1O2), a potent ROS, leading to oxidative damage. ROS can damage lipids (lipid peroxidation), proteins, carbohydrates, and nucleic acids (DNA). Oxidative stress can compromise the integrity of cell membranes, affecting their function and permeability. Oxidative damage can interfere with essential cellular functions, including photosynthesis, respiration, and signal transduction. In severe cases, oxidative stress can trigger programmed cell death (apoptosis). Oxidative damage can lead to stunted growth, reduced biomass, and lower crop yields. Plants have evolved intricate antioxidant defense systems to counteract oxidative stress. These include: Enzymes like superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and various peroxidases scavenge ROS and neutralize their damaging effects. Antioxidant molecules like glutathione, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), C60 fullerene, and carotenoids directly neutralize ROS. Developing plant varieties with gene expression focused on enhanced antioxidant capacity and stress tolerance is crucial. Optimizing irrigation, fertilization, and other management practices can help minimize stress and oxidative damage. Applying antioxidant compounds or elicitors can help plants cope with oxidative stress. Introducing genes for enhanced antioxidant enzymes or stress-related proteins over generations. Phytohormones, also known as plant hormones, are a group of naturally occurring organic compounds that regulate plant growth, development, and various physiological processes. The five major classes of phytohormones are: auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, ethylene, and abscisic acid. In addition to these, other phytohormones like brassinosteroids, jasmonates, and salicylates also play significant roles. Here's a breakdown of the key phytohormones: Auxins: Primarily involved in cell elongation, root initiation, and apical dominance. Gibberellins: Promote stem elongation, seed germination, and flowering. Cytokinins: Stimulate cell division and differentiation, and delay leaf senescence. Ethylene: Regulates fruit ripening, leaf abscission, and senescence. Abscisic acid (ABA): Plays a role in seed dormancy, stomatal closure, and stress responses. Brassinosteroids: Involved in cell elongation, division, and stress responses. Jasmonates: Regulate plant defense against pathogens and herbivores, as well as other processes. Salicylic acid: Plays a role in plant defense against pathogens. 1. Red and Far-Red Light (Phytochromes): Red light: Primarily activates the phytochrome system, converting it to its active form (Pfr), which promotes processes like stem elongation and flowering. Far-red light: Inhibits the phytochrome system by converting the active Pfr form back to the inactive Pr form. This can trigger shade avoidance responses and inhibit germination. Phytohormones: Red and far-red light regulate phytohormones like auxin and gibberellins, which are involved in stem elongation and other growth processes. 2. Blue Light (Cryptochromes and Phototropins): Blue light: Activates cryptochromes and phototropins, which are involved in various processes like stomatal opening, seedling de-etiolation, and phototropism (growth towards light). Phytohormones: Blue light affects auxin levels, influencing stem growth, and also impacts other phytohormones involved in these processes. Example: Blue light can promote vegetative growth and can interact with red light to promote flowering. 3. UV-B Light (UV-B Receptors): UV-B light: Perceived by UVR8 receptors, it can affect plant growth and development and has roles in stress responses, like UV protection. Phytohormones: UV-B light can influence phytohormones involved in stress responses, potentially affecting growth and development. 4. Other Colors: Green light: Plants are generally less sensitive to green light, as chlorophyll reflects it. Other wavelengths: While less studied, other wavelengths can also influence plant growth and development through interactions with different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Key Points: Cross-Signaling: Plants often experience a mix of light wavelengths, leading to complex interactions between different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Species Variability: The precise effects of light color on phytohormones can vary between different plant species. Hormonal Interactions: Phytohormones don't act in isolation; their interactions and interplay with other phytohormones and environmental signals are critical for plant responses. The spectral ratio of light (the composition of different colors of light) significantly influences a plant's hormonal balance. Different wavelengths of light are perceived by specific photoreceptors in plants, which in turn regulate the production and activity of various plant hormones (phytohormones). These hormones then control a wide range of developmental processes.

August 1: These clones are now next to the motherplant and august 3 will be the start of flowering when the light goes off. The nutrients are now just calmag, micro and bloom at 500ppm untill they hit week 3 flower August 10th: the clones are now at day 7 flower and they just got trimmed (lower branches and biggest leaf on top of the plants) i dont go too agressive on defoliation with this strain, on the last short video of this week u can see what i cut off at this stage, this was done at day 7 flower

I started germination of 3 Amnesiac beans on 29/12/2020. I pre moistened my rockwool cubes with ph balanced water to 6.4. Made sure the plugs were just damp and not soaked. Using a small wooden dowel I increased the size of the plugs pre made holes. Than I sowed my beans into the holes. Ripped off a small piece of rockwool and mulched it up. Lightly filled the holes in with the mulched rockwool. Than stuck the plugs into a misted humidity dome, to complete germination. Shouldn't take anymore than 4-5 days to see some sprouts. Once I see some cotlydon leaves bursting to the surface. I will get the plugs planted into some 1 gallon pots. Plus get these ladies situated into their home. Cant wait! Some background information on my first run with Amnesiac. She was super powerful straight out the gate. Hammering off quite the amount of veg growth in 6 weeks. She was a little stingy on nitrogen and really wanted s slightly decreased dose from my norm but nothing to extreme. She was the tallest in the room going into flower and she was quite the stretcher. She gained about 250% size after the first 2 weeks of bloom. Leading to me supercropping her at that point. She didnt mind the hst one bit! Was back to growing and turning her bud sites up withing about 12 hours. She resulted in a great quantity of high quality flowers. Very fat chunky colas just coated in trichomes. Looking to knock her out of the park even further this time around!

Eccoci qui... Tutto va per il meglio, questa settimana non ho applicato stress alla piccola, ma ho guardato l'evoluzione che ha avuto dando i nutrienti. Ora ha un odore davvero intenso ed uno strat di resina pauroso, vediamo come si riprende dalla defogliazione che ho fatto settimana scorsa. Seguiranno aggiornamenti, grazie a tutti per il supporto🔥🌲❤️

RQS Diesel Automatic is growing along pretty strong, pushing out some nodes. Leaves still showing that mosaic look, but all the comments from the GD community have been to not worry about it, so I'm not worrying. But curious to see what happens as she flowers. Gave her some Recharge this week.

noto que estan comiendo mucho, osea se secan rápido que es que estan comiendo bastante de lo comun. Las ojas tornandose color amarillo para cambiar a color vino. se ven muy bonitas y estan fewlices. No he cambiado mucho entre los nutrientes (Té y Recharge), he sostenido alimentarlas simples y he tenido muy buenos resultados. muy contento con todo, sigas adelante, buenos humos y feliz 2021

Week 7 for AK Triple Haze by SSSC She's been doing some flower bulking even though she's been in a darkish shed all week due to the rain😐 And as you can see by the pictures the top of the main cola is looking odd... well due to the high humidity/rain she developed some bud rot right on the top of the main cola😭After removing the damage & really having a look at her & all the other flowering plants it seems like it was the only spot thankgod... Will keep checking this plant for more bud rot development just in case i have to chop some more off, but the rain is over so the humidity should start dropping nicely hopefully that's the end of the troubles. She's fed water only because of @naturelivingsoil beast of autoflower soil mix, still doing its job nicely.

Day 83 - changed her to 12/12 lighting to finish her faster. Smells of dank cheese plus a sweet candy smell when I give her a finger hug 👌

Grow diary 11 stage 6 Day 51-60 This last 9 days she has continued to veg and stretch. I have been bending the tops of the 4 mains to try and get her as low as possible, she is the tallest of the 4 strains I have going even with multiple bends on the mains she is a good 9 inches taller then the wedding glue I have going. Don't think she liked the slight increase in nutes this stage. Hope she gets going into flower soon as she is way behind the others and I was planning on harvesting all plants at the same time.

9/13 Took the last special Kush today. I had too. Those fucking locusts were eating more and more. At least the trichs looked good. The second plant is straight fire! They're ALL good. I'll have to do the review. Tenth planet is swelling up and trichs are getting cloudier. They are starting to eat the chem dog too but it needs to bulk up and the trichs aren't there yet. Mk ultra natural may be some of the best quality this year. I'm losing SOME to the locusts but it seems they avoid the frostier stuff. At least I'm hoping. This is a great plantvand despite the nugs being so tight and stuff it just needs more time and im going to give it to her. Pink kush is actually look9ng like it might finish. But the locusts have STRIPPED a lot of that. I'll keep an eye on them and keep this uuodated. I got a notification saying congratulations on a harvester diary. I know these outdoor seasons are long but what difference does it make? Hopefully I can still add week later. 9/14 Weather is good bit it's so dry that the locusts are deafening. Thrips are still around and there's not much I can do about it. Looking at the tenth planet I isolated I can see that locusts stripped the middle some and it was stunted from the thrips. The pink kush looks good but I'm losing g some to locusts. The 10th planet, Chem Dog #4 and the MK Ultra I left natural are bulking up and trichs are exploding! Since I safely have some quality cannabis I'm go8mg to let these ride. Unless I continue to lose substantial amounts. Then my hand may be forced. The pink kush is nowhere near ready though. The others would still be good taken now. Smell is strong and I've looked them all. 9/15 Rained last night. Plants were wet. I probably should've watered. Had to remove two branches due to mold. I also removed a couple small buds that had molded. These 40 degree nights don't do well with rain. I'm losing more and more cannabis daily from those locusts and from some mold that comes with the damage. I've never had a year like this. The sounds the make are deafening. And it's not just at night, or a specific part of the day. It's ALL. THE. TIME. I'm not growing again without floating row covers. I'll loon for some today bur that's like closing the barn door after the horses got out. Oh well. That big 10th planet is ready. I was just waiting for more amber bur I'm not taking a chance losing more branches. I'll think about it and I'll update what I decide to do. I might take that today. Chem dog had thr most damage but last I looked it wasn't where I needed it to be. EDIT: DIDN'T TAKE ANYTHING. IVE GOT MY HANDS FULL TRIMMING AND DRYING ANYWAY. SURPRISINGLY THE TRICHS WERE ALL MILKY! THEY EVEN HAD SOME AMBER! CHEM DOG WENT CLEAR TO MILKY REAL FAST AND THE NATURAL MK ULTRA HAS BUDS THAT THE STIGMAS HAVECTOTALLY RETRACTED AND THE LOOK COMPLETELY DONE. AGAIN. TRICHS ARE ALL MILKY. IT THE BUDS ARE EXTREMELY DENSE AND I WORRY ABOUT ROT. BOTH THESE PLANTS COULD COME DOWN ANYTIME AND IM SURE ID BE HAPPY. I JUST HAVE A LOT RO DO AND THE WEAYHER LOOKS GREAT SO AS LONG AS THE LOCUSTS STAY AWAY THINGS WILL BE FINE. I ALSO watered everything a gallon. I may have been underwatering for fear of overwatering. Tomorrow's a new day. We'll see what it holds. 11% chance of rain. But after that it looks like it will be good. 9/16 Guess I didn't do a video. Went over this morning and then again around one. I brought my loupe and checked everything. Suprisingly some of the pink kush are MILKY already and legit hard as a marble. I won't get much from them but I bet it will be good. The tenth planet I probably should've taken. I was tired though and another day or so isn't going to hurt it. I took off a few of the fan leaves that were left but most have dropped already. The strain SAYS it takes longer but the loupe doesn't lie and the buds arent increasing in size anymore. The chem dog has caught up to it by now and the 10th planet WAS much further ahead. They both have been through the same stressors. This cold weather has sped shit up. I've got all MILKY with amber on thatl tenth planet and I don't want to keep losing more shit. The chemdog has swelled to almost the size of the 10th planet and are all MILKY as hell!. The mk ultra's stigmas have retracted on half the buds and are very dense. It has a few ENORMOUS calyxes on it. The only reason its still standing is that ive noticed A FEW clear tricombs and the plant is healthy. It can survive a little longer but its a September strain and we've had some cold weather already. Some have some stigmas still reaching upward (mostly on the cola) but other flowers have no visible stigma on the top. Theyve reached what looks like perfection and are all milky. That plant it frosty. It might be my best quality. Only time will tell. That plant doesn't have as much damage but I'd like to see a little more amber and see if the buds decide to connect. This strain is on time according to the breeder and ive just decided to oush it. I hope I dont regret I have a bud that rotted off a tenth planet branch so at least i can try it before i take it. Same with the chem dog but it's not dry yet. I'd would be good to try a tester bud before I made my decision on pulling the plant. 9/17 I did a video and took the tenth planet after finding a few buds that had molded and a small branch with mold on it. Should've followed my intuition and took it yesterday but I was sick. Still am. I found some mold on the chem dog and more stem mold. I also found some buds that had completely rotted and died. The plants have been through at least one frost. If I wasn't so tired and ill I would've taken the chem dog too. The buds were swelk8ng though and had caught the tenth planet that had stopped growing. I almost just cut it at the base and hung it upside down because I'm worried about the mold and whatever I'd eating it. It smells great, trichs areall MILKY with a little amber. I was just hoping for more size but it's been a strange year climate wise. I still have another 10th planet out but it has a few issues. The natural mk ultra will probably be the best quality out of the garden. It is rock hard and frosty as hell. I can still see some clear trichs or I would've snatched it. It LOOKS totally done. That's what's weird this year. Advanced trichs on small bud, trichs staying clear on big buds that appear finished. It has MILKY and amber so I coukd take it anytime but it looks healthy so I'll give it a little more time. The pink kush surprisingly has grown extremely trichome heavy rock hard buds. I'll get a harvest from them and it will probably be good quality bit it won't be much. I was able to sample the mk ultra and was extremely impressed. After I do the physical shit and take time for myself ill take pictures and put more up on the harvest reports. Hopfully the chem dog does ok tonight. I'm sure she'll be fine. 9/18 WATERED EVERYTHING LEFT. Checked the trichs and flowering time on the chem dog #4 and pulled it. Should've yesterday. Lost a few small branches and a couple buds to rot but this stuff is extremely frosty! I left the mk ultra and the pink kushes and the other 10th planet. I could've taken the mk ultra but I think I can push it a bit further. It's a beautiful plant. I'm sick and of course I come across this plant that NEEDED to be harvested. We've got a frost warning tonight too. I won't get much from the pink kushes but it looks like it's going to be some killer smoke. I wasn't planning on doing this and I'm tired as fuck. I'm in trim jail and I'm ive got shit hanging everywhere. I'll take pictures and shit and do reviews after I get the work done. 9/19 Boy that mk ultra is pretty. I've got a bunch of stuff drying and a bunch of stuff curing. I'll do reviews later but I'm very impressed with the quality. Not anywhere near what I normally get but the quality makes of for that. Every year can't be a home run. But the quality.......wow. I'm impressed and the vest is yet to come! I dodnt wet trim the chem dog. I pulled the fans but that was about it. I was tired. I've got A LOT of work ahead of me. I cannot believe the change in those pink kush plants. The size, density, smell and the amount of tricomes is unreal.

The weak plant is small and sick. The healthy plant is beautiful even I expected a little bigger plant. Leaves and flowers started to be purple.