The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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@Drgreen13
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Hi guys, this runt is smelling amazing, she's started to pile on weight now, I reckon another 2/3 weeks until harvest, thanks for stopping by. Please check out my other diaries and feel free to leave a like, maybe even a follow and I'll be sure to check out your diaries to. The light being used is the Mars hydro SP150, it's a great quality light and is very bright, ideal for rectangular spaces, visit www.marshydro.co.uk to purchase this and many other leds. Drgreen13#6724 (discord) Stay high, stay fly, #420everyday.🥃
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These girls look amazing!!! I have multiple different age and different strains but these are what I started the diary with.
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Que hay familia, yo con muchos dolores de cabeza esta variedad es difícil de cojones, piden mucho alimento, han ensanchado bastante así que me toco hacer poda de bajos que no me gusta nada. También estoy al ojo por que me huele a hermafrodita una de ellas, no me hagan caso el cultivo anterior salió top y ando todo el día fumado... pero no es el caso. Nuestras green ak son bastante sensibles a los cambios de temperatura y bueno, no se la recomendaría a medir principiante si no más a gente con varios años de experiencia para poder sacar lo mejor de ellas. Ph controlado 6,5 no fallamos en eso ni en el alimento ya veremos próximamente como avanza saludos familia.
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This beauty has stolen my heart. She is so stinky and so pretty. I wish ya'll could share in this with me, as the flower is bound to be as amazing as growing her has been.
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@S2340420
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It came into my head last night a migjt have been under feeding them by mixing enough feed for 10 litres of water instead of the 20 i meant to account for i will give them a full dose on the same feed as last week 4ml per 10 litre and 1ml of pk for the 1st feed tnis week and see how they look 🤯
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@Tobecobe
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Pretty easy first grow, with a lot learnt along the way for next time. I believe not defoliating enough and overfeeding the nitrogen in flower hurt the bud density in the end, but I'm more than happy with the returns and as its vape use, dense flower is less important to me.
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So she was a breeze to grow took to training like a champ fimd her early and did bowl training on her till around 2nd week in flower then removed the ties she would have been even better without the issues I had fed her daily on the wwf regime aiming for 30% runoff this seems to work really well on autos and get big yields of them trimming her was easy did wet trim then hung to dry for 6days at 65/60 with a small fan circulating the air then in a tub for 3 days burping buds are nice and tight loaded with thc and smelling awesome really happy with how things turned out thanks to all my followers and friends grow share learn what were all about happy growing guys
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So I left for a week and had a trusted friend take over watering duties. A few things of note: I was concerned over overheating the grow so I turned the power down to 75% and ran the light up another 6 inches. This had the unfortunate effect of less airflow and cooler temps so I got powdery mildew that I would be fighting for the remainder of the grow. That aside, the plants looked way more mature when I returned home, with nice trichome development and density.
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@CalGonJim
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1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia
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SOOOOO sorry guys!! I’ve been slacking on this diary ive been doing so much work on the new grow room and been pretty busy with this beautiful harvest I just chopped 😍 Buttt The WET BETTIES have been doing amazing you can totally tell the difference in the pheno’s 2 of the girls are growing super tall and lengthy while the other 4 are staying short and bushy! About 2 and a half weeks ago I topped them and kept doing so until I had about 16 top sights I’ve been letting them grow after that so those tops can turn to colas ! This is the last week or so of Veg for these girls before turning to flower and getting to see those beautiful buds from this exotic strain! I’ll be moving them into 5 gallon fabric pots this weekend so they have all the room they need to stretch out their little roots. I’m super excited and can’t wait to show you guys the next batch of seeds we’re growing!! #GarciasGarden @exoticgenetix P.S. I know you guys see some of the leaves on one of the phenos are light around the edges and dark in the middle .thankfully was able to fix the deficiency and get her healthy as a horse 🌹
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I thought I just had two of this strain, but it turns out that the 134g plant was actually a C4 hybrid! It isn't as pungent smelling as the others, but seems to have it's own unique flavor going on. I like it! 115g - C4ndycaine [Candy Cane x C4] 134g - C4ndycaine [Candy Cane x C4] 151g - C4ndycaine [Candy Cane x C4]  TOTAL: 400g 👍
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stoked to see the effects of the pk booster, the overall growth seems quite dense and stacked for a 80% sativa autoflower. Lowering CogR Flores to 3ml/l in anticipation of a harvest within the next 3-4 weeks. The Smell is getting more intense now and is not as a flat anymore. Nice and juicy Sweetness, some skunk and hints of chocolate or candy. Mixed 10l of Nutemix with the Redboom a couple of days ago, mixed another 10l todays and once the 10l are gone i will stop using it until next run - so a total of 20l for those 2 plants, ph regulated water once inbetween both applications
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@Diips
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d.50 a few spots appeared on the leafs. gave a 10 ml dose of bio p k and waiting a week before giving a dose of orgatrex and bactrex edit: d.50 i also gave 0.5 ml of calmag from Biobizz edit d.53 will i be giving her the orgatrex and bactrex treatment ✌️🌞 d.53 she got 20 ml orgatrex, 1g of bactrex and 0.5 ml of biobizz calmag d.54 added scrog and did lst with clips to even out the height and space… still need to adjust it.
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Already showing some flower buds. It's developing well.
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@Stinkfox
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I can’t wait to harvest this plant. The sheer overwhelming power of the smells coming off Cinderella and White Widow means I have trouble picking out the more subtle scent of Blueberry. So I'm really looking forward to jarring these buds. I’ll be chopping around the end of the week. Might let her go 65.
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@Tazard
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I could tell within a week of flower that she would probably be a monster. She was always given priority for space and light. When I realized that she was covering 7sqft I realized that she didn’t have enough light and I moved 3 more LED’s to her so as to not be light limited for harvest. Based on 600g/m2 I needed at least 400w for her. I managed to get almost 670g/m2!
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Una verdadera californiana! la verdad sin palabras al cruzarnos con esta cepa ya hace 2 años manteniendola.. Aveces afrutada,aveces muy amaderada pero siempre intensa..!
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Empezamos la segunda semana. Ayer día 5 de Febrero se realizo un trasplante de las 9 plantas con mejor aspecto a tiestos de 6-7 L que tenia por casa que he decidido aprovechar. Son las 9 que quedan en el armario y con las que trabajare, de las 13 con las que empecé. En cuanto a la iluminación la semana pasada la acabamos con 50W, para esta semana en adelante y durante todo el crecimiento la dejaremos en 100W. Ciclos de 18 horas de luz y 6 horas apagado. Pocos riegos de momento solo con Rhizotonic ñ, 0,5 ml por litro. Empezaremos a añadir Plagron Alga Grow durante esta semana y pulverizaremos con Plagron Vita Race. Las 4 plantas restantes han ido a exterior veremos como responden. Disfruten y buenos humos. Gracias por leer. Tupskywalker
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@BearBuds
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Another BIG week for the gals. They got lollipopped on Monday and it took them about 5 days to fill back out and start stretching vertically again. Saturday-Monday they seems to explode overnight, had to adjust the scrog net and do additional LST to keep the canopy as level as possible. PE#1 is not as tall as the others and with this system I can't really stand her up on anything. Hope that she catches up this week. I discovered some purple petioles, and a little spreading to stems on each plant and read that it's likely due to a mag deficiency. I added CalMag to the res. Also noticed the water temp is a little warm at 26-27C but I am not going to spend the money to get a chiller and pay for that electricity, so we will see what happens. Doesn't seem to be too big of an issue right now. To counter this a little I turned on the autopot air domes. Hoping that the extra oxygen will do them well since the warm water is likely low in DO. This week the light was lowered to 45cm above canopy. Reading back through old grows it appears between 37.5-45.5 is the sweet spot for this light. I also started checking the pH and the ppm's of each tray and noticed that the pH rises slightly from tank to tray. Tank is at 5.5 and trays are 5.8-6. Something to keep an eye on later. Tonight I will clean the tank with soap, peroxide and water and plan to snag some hydroguard this week at the store. I added Bud explosion to the nute recipe this week and will begin to decrease Part B Nutrients slowly over the course of the next two weeks. They are still a little shorter than I would like, but the good news is there is literally no more room to scrog so its all vertical growth from here on out. Hoping that they have a good stretch this week. if they could be between 65-70 cm by the end of flower week two I would be very pleased. All other conditions in the tent have been great.