ALRIGHTY THEN REMINDER I DO 2 UPDATES PER WEEK 👉WEEKLYROUNDUP👈👉MIDWEEKLY UPDATE👈 We just hit week 12 and all is well , have to admit shes just killing it on the resin development 😃 ......the frost is insane 👹...... Just waiting for her to ripen up👈 👉NutriNPK NUTRIENTS USED FOR FEEDING👈 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉IF ANYONE IS LOOKING FOR A PLACE TO HANGOUT VIA GROWDIARIES AND TALK GROWING AND JUST CHILL AND WHATEVER .....👈 👉I CREATED GROWDIARIES DISCORD SERVER !!!!!!!!!!!👈 LINK IS 👉 https://discord.gg/zQmTHkbejs AND SEE HOW IT PLAYS OUT !!!!!!!

Vamos, última semana de floración de las Blueberry Cheese de ZambezaSeeds. Octava semana y es que están ya explotadas y maduras estas flores, ya llevan 7 días solo agua y con u. Respectivo lavado de raíces , ya están preparadas para afilar tijeras. Tienen un progreso bastante rápido con 8 semanas voy a poder cosechar que no está nada mal. Gracias a los productos de Agrobeta tendré buenos resultados. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Las maximas de temperatura no superan los 26 grados y las mínimas no bajan 20, así que no me puedo quejar. Los niveles de humedad también son los correctos van entre 45%/55% de humedad relativa. Por supuesto el Ph lo estamos dejando alrededor de 6. Hasta aquí es todo, buenos humos 💨💨💨.

it's only the beginning on week 6 and are in flower stage, tree looks good loving her feed, loving her space just loving life. Today I decided to put her outside in the sun such a beautiful Sunday it was, I'll keep this updated with more pics by Saturday on the closing of week 6 .

Day 34 this lady is running, I can see flowers getting bigger every day, smell started really really soon this time so I already had to add the Carbon Filter. I’d like to close the cycle in less then 80 days. It would be great First flowering fertilisation Ph 6.2 Ppm 631 Day 37 - 9 of flower 🌸 Started blooming fertilisation, I’m keep Giving all-in one from aptus, i think I lm substitute with super pk and I stop all in one. Ph 6.2 Ppm 731 As I’m growing an solito in a 9.2 lt pots with all mix nutrients I’m slowing down with all in one and just giving base feedings, I ll decide later if I should give super-pk for the next weeks Day 40, tomorrow will be feeding days. Sge’s going really well, resin is already showing up on flowers that are several as and colorfull, smell is already there 🤤 Tomorrow update with feedings parameters. Day 41 feeding day Aptus regulator 0,15ml/1 lt Aptus all in one 1,25ml/1lt Aptus Topbooster 0,3 ml Aptus enzym + 0,5 ml Calmag 0,3 ml /L Ph 6,18 Ppm 756 Let’s see

She seems to be overfed, showing yellowing here and there. Also other has some leaves have brown spots. I might have messed up the Ph because I did not adjust the Ph of nutrients mix. I assumed it was ph corrected. Now, I am adjusting the Ph and reducing feeding. Let’s hope that she recovers next week.

Esta semana hicimos poda de bajos a podas las puntas y una poda de bajos a todas las ramas , se recupera muy bien de las podas la Jack está semana ya arrancamos de a poco con los fertilizantes de flora , así hacemos el último trasplante a 10 litros para pasar a flora , yo creo q ta esta más que bien para entrar en floración ya , pero quiero hacer el último trasplante antes , vamos a ir viendo como vienen las siguientes semanas

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

Day 36 Done nothing just let them grow and trimmed a few leaves Day 37 - watered them with feeding. Decreased the amount by 25% except the base nutes. Added 12ml CalMag on 4L water by request of the community. If leaves curl down more, I will consider a flush. Day 38 No feed. Color changed from the middleone overnight, I think that’s a good sign. Maybe someone can comment on that 💪🏽. For me it looks very good, I know a few leaves show signs of nutrient burn but I decreased already and no new signs appeared Day 39 No feed until tomorrow. Day 40 Fed them with very low amount of fertilizer. I aimed for a ppm of 1000 but I went a bit higher until I have osmosis water . Runoff ppm was 2000, but I have to say I am measuring ppm since this week and will fix this problem Day 42 No feed

🌬️ Dry & Cure Process: • Hung whole for 12-14 days @ 66-73°F / 48-61% RH • Cure in glass for 3 weeks, burp jar’s for 30 min → Result: Smooth, rich, and loud. Gas upfront, fruity on the back. No harshness, just quality. 🌟 Benefits of This Strain: 🧠 Spiritual: Deep introspection, great for meditation or creative flow 💊 Medical: Calms inflammation, eases tension, lifts mood — great for end-of-day recovery 💪🏾 Physical: Full-body melt, especially helpful post-workout or long shifts 🏾 Overall: Euphoric & sedating without being too heavy. Night-time favorite. ‼️I’m not a physician or practitioner of medicine I just grow the herbs of my ancestors who used them for medicine

I will run Top Booster for 1 week then switch to Top Shooter for the remainder of flower. I wasn't expecting the extra 10" this past week. The only thing that is keeping up with Acid Dough (out of 4 other varieties in the scrog) is the pure sativa I put in the back corner! Acid Dough is a monster, even though the other 4 varieties were started 3.5w before the Acid Doughs they cover 6.5 sqft of the 16 sqft of the scrog. Oh btw the acid dough are 3/10 plants in the Scrog. 8/16 added a second trellis for support. And some more Acid Dough bud shots. 8/18 💥 the Acid Dough's directly under the light are sprouting Trichs (small yet). They are up to drinking about 4gal a day water and eating nutes even faster.

We've made it to week 3! (10/12/20) I'm very happy with how the girls are going, they have definitely put in a HUGE amount of work over the past 7 days. Plants 3 & 8 are very similar(extremely fat leaves & extra bushy) Plants 1 & 5 are similar (smaller phenos reacting to nutes slightly differently) & Plants 2, 4, 6 & 7 seem to be a cross between the previously mentioned phenos(not too small and not too big/bushy & reacting to nutes fine) Feel free to compare Week 1, 2 & 3 to see the differences. Nutes are staying the same this week, although I will be spacing feedings out a little bit further(18 hours-ish), as well as feeding straight PH'd water once a fortnight. I am contemplating hooking my simple drip-to-waste irrigation system up, although the girls are pretty close to the medium still and the halos sit 5-10cm above the medium, meaning fan leaves would be drooping onto the wet halos, so I'll give it another week and see how they're doing :) Update 11/12/20 - day 22 The girls have beefed up quite a bit over the last 24 hours, I'm really looking forward to seeing a stretch soon :) No feeding today & will water plain ph'd water tomorrow. Update 12/12/20 - day 23 Gave the girls straight ph'd water today with little run off. Veg growth is really starting to boom now, looking forward to seeing where this grow goes! I'm gladly accepting any tips or tricks, as I'm still only a beginner to indoors. Update 13/12/20 - day 24 Girls are looking great today, not much to report. They didn't get a feed or watering today as the medium was still wet after a pure watering yesterday. Update 14/12/20 - day 25 There's been a big increase in growth over the past 24 hours. All the girls besides the 2 smaller phenos look 100% happy, the smaller ones have looked a little weird since day 1(Weird as in colour of the fan leaves look deficient of something, but I'm not sure what. The girls will be getting a full feeding today. There's still no signs of sex but they are feminised seeds. Update 15/12/20 - day 26 Girls are looking happy today. Temps are back to normal after a heat wave in my city(its only going to get hotter from here on out). No feeding/watering today, pots are heavy/wet enough. Started using iphone for photos now, my only lens for my DSLR is useless for most grow related photos. I will upgrade my lens before next grow. I received my new silenced fan today! I couldnt be any happier :) It is a silenced Sigilventus SE-A150J, which I have set-up with a brand new Can-lite carbon filter. I went from a rocket loud eBay fan to a completely silent inline EC fan :D I hope the girls like the silence! Update 16/12/20 - day 27 The girls are continuing to boom! and I'm over the moon about it :D I gave them a full feeding today. I have seen white pistils coming out of calyx's on most of the girls, so i'm hoping they start to flower soon. I'm having weird issues with my humidity, it seems to be fine at 40-50% for 70% of the day, but the remaing 30% of the day it goes up to 60-65%. Temps stay the same in the 5x5 tent, I have ducted air-con in the house which is on most of the day. Thanks for viewing! :)

Everything’s looking beautiful !! 2 weeks in .. not a lot of different between the two nutrients canna and remo , I cut of the canna rhizotonicxp and cannazym just using canna coco A&B and canna boost I’ll use canna pk1314 half way through week 4 and half too the end of week 5 .. remo nutrients I use all 6 nutrients...

End of Week 4 Trying to make sure the soil stays nice and moist to keep the microbes happy and letting the top 3 cm of the topsoil dry before each watering. . Turned the wattage up on my ballasts to 600W each. The ladies have gained some strength and they can handle the extra wattage. I also performed LST by tucking fan leaves and softly pinching and bending some of the bud sites also used some tie downs and topped here and there whilst keeping the stress at a minimal.

Bonjour à tous les padawans et les maîtres jedis Jour42 ma plante entre bien en floraison je pratique sur elle une defolliation pour permettre aux têtes de prendre la lumière La floraison des plantes de cannabis La plante de cannabis passe par différentes étapes de vie avant de parvenir à la récolte. Ces étapes sont : la germination, la pré-croissance, la croissance et la floraison. Pour les autofloraisons il n'est pas nécessaire d'avoir de changer le cycle de lumière elle entre en floraison automatiquement voilà d'où elle tient son nom "d'autofloraison" L'origine de l'auto-floraison vient de la sous-espèce "cannabis sativa ruderalis" , qui à l'origine produit de très faibles niveaux de THC. C'est en croisant cette variété de marijuana avec d'autres qui produisent des niveaux de THC plus élevés qu'à vu le jour ce magnifique compromis que sont les variétés auto-fleurissantes avec des taux de THC très satisfaisants. En parallèle, cela a permis d'améliorer la production de ces variétés, qui initialement étaient exceptionnellement basse. Pour des résultats optimaux, en culture Outdoor (extérieur), je recommande que la germination des graines de marijuanaAuto-flo se fasse entre avril et août. En culture Indoor(intérieur), la photopériode idéale que ce soit pour la croissance comme pour la floraison est de 20h de lumière. N'oubliez pas que ces graines ne sont pas tributaires de la photopériode pour passer en floraison. Il est préférable d'utiliser des pots d'une capacité de 10 à 20L dès le début, étant donné que leur cycle de vie est réduit, les auto-flo n'ent pas besoin de plus de volume pour se développer. Vu sa petite taille (et la discrétion) elle fait l'objet d'un bon choix pour la culture de cannabis sur balcons. La première variété de Lowryder auto-floraison a été créé à partir de cannabis indica sativa croisé avec des génétiques de cannabis sativa rudelaris par la banque de graines de marijuana "The Joint Doctor". Puis vinrent la White Dwarf de "Buddha Seeds", la Roadrunnerde "Dinafem", l' Auto Stoned d' "Autofem", la Speed Devil de "Sweet Seeds" , la Maxi Gom de "Grassomatic", la Flash, la Gnomo de Kannabiaet bien d'autres. Jour42 defolliation (video) Avant toute chose n'oublions pas de bien désinfecter ses outils et bien ce laver les mains. Quesque la defolliation ? LES CULTIVATEURS AMATEURS, PRENEZ GARDE, MAIS NE PRENEZ PAS PEUR La défoliation consiste à retirer les feuilles des plants de cannabis en intérieur afin d'accroître le rendementfinal. Le cultivateur amateur doit faire preuve de vigilance lorsqu'il commence à appliquer cette technique de taille. Malgré le débat sans fin entre ceux qui prônent cette technique et ceux qui la dénigre, il n'y aucune raison pour qu'un amateur ne s'y essaie pas afin de voir si ça lui convient ou non. COMMENT DÉFOLIER Que vous tailliez les feuilles ou les branches des plants de cannabis, il vaut mieux utiliser un sécateur stérile qui est confortable en main. Arracher des feuilles à la main manque de finesse et engendre souvent par accident, l'arrachement des couches d'une tige en plus de la feuille. L'objectif principal de la défoliation est de permettre une meilleure pénétration de la lumière et de promouvoir la production de plus grosses têtes. Les feuilles éventails qui font de l'ombre doivent être retirées. Tailler la tige principale et/ou les pousses secondaires n'est pas de la défoliation. La règle d'or lorsque vous donnez à vos plantes un rafraîchissement est de commencer avec les feuilles nourricières les plus grandes et les plus larges, en taillant du bas vers le haut. Il est important de retirer les feuilles stratégiquement et non pas au hasard. Pensez également qu'il vous faut limiter votre rafraîchissement à approximativement 10 à 20 % des feuilles totales de votre pied. Il est très facile de s'emporter durant la taille et de se retrouver avec des plantes chauves. Un excès de taille de feuilles empêchera la photosynthèse et paralysera vos plants. QUAND FAUT-IL DÉFOLIER Il est assez rare d'appliquer la défoliation comme seule technique pour obtenir un fort rendement. La taille des feuilles est généralement associée à d'autres méthodes de tailles et de palissage pour un meilleur rendement telles que le topping ou étêtage, le FIMming, le LST, le manifolding, le supercropping et le ScrOG. Les cultivateurs utilisant la méthode ScrOG auront besoin de retirer toutes les croissances inférieures ainsi que les feuilles et les tiges se trouvant sous le filet. Les plants de cannabis peuvent être défoliés dès lors qu'ils sont passés de la phase de plantule vers la phase de croissance végétative. Cependant, il est recommandé aux cultivateurs amateurs de laisser aux plantes 1 à 2 semaines de croissance végétative avant de s'attaquer à la défoliation de celles-ci. De plus, certaines variétés sont plus sensibles à la taille que d'autres et de ce fait, seront plus stressées par la taille des feuilles. Surveillez minutieusement le comportement de vos plants après la taille. Une période de convalescence de minimum 3 à 7 jours avant de recommencer la défoliation est fortement recommandée pour éviter trop de stress aux plants. Les cultivateurs peuvent également défolier pendant la phase de floraison, ce qui permettra à l'énergie de la plante d'être concentrée vers la production de têtes tout en limitant l'ombre et l'excès d'humidité. Néanmoins, il est important de ne pas défolier trop tard sous peine de simplement blesser ses plants inutilement. LES AVANTAGES DE LA DÉFOLIATION Évidemment, l'avantage numéro un de la défoliation, c'est l'augmentation du potentiel de rendement de cette technique de taille pour tous types de cannabis allant de la photopériode aux variétés autofloraison. Ce n'est pas un secret que les fleurs qui reçoivent plus de lumières deviennent plus grandes et larges que celles dissimulées dans l'ombre des feuilles. De plus, retirer les feuilles intérieures des plants touffus aide à prévenir toutes menaces de moisissure. Les plants très feuillus avec un feuillage intérieur dense produiront une quantité importante de têtes pop-corn. Dans le pire des cas, les branches de têtes et les têtes qui sont denses succomberont au pourrissement. Si vous observez des gouttes d'eau se former sur la surface des feuilles, il est grand temps de penser à faire de la défoliation. Libérer la zone inférieure et médiane des feuilles est un excellent moyen d'améliorer la circulation de l'air. LES DÉSAVANTAGES DE LA DÉFOLIATION Les plants de cannabis en intérieur bénéficient de la défoliation pour deux raisons. La première est parce qu'ils reçoivent la lumière d'une source stationnaire au-dessus d'eux, et la deuxième est parce que les conditions environnementales sont contrôlées par le cultivateur et non Mère Nature. Les plants d'extérieurs eux, n'y gagnent pas beaucoup, car les cas échéants se vérifient pour eux. Le soleil traverse le ciel, illuminant sur sa route, différentes portions de la plante de son lever à son coucher. Les cultivateurs en extérieur n'ont pas besoin de manipuler les plantes afin qu'elles se développent en adoptant une structure plate puisque le soleil est infiniment plus puissant que n'importe quelle lampe de culture et qui plus est, il est toujours en mouvement. Tailler les feuilles des plants extérieurs les rend également plus vulnérables aux conditions humides et brise leurs barrières naturelles contres les nuisibles. De nombreux cultivateurs d'intérieur peuvent, et malheureusement, c'est souvent le cas, réduire le rendement final à cause d'une défoliation faite au mauvais moment et/ou excessive. Tailler les plantules n'est pas conseillé et engendre souvent des plants nains. Scalper les plants matures est encore pire, et au lieu d'obtenir de longues branches de têtes, vous obtiendrez probablement encore moins de fleurs. De même, tailler des plants malades ou en mauvaise santé à n'importe quelle période de la croissance risque de paralyser la croissance plutôt que d'encourager la formation de fleurs denses. Jour44 Arrosage une fois sur 2 topmax de biobizz Jour46 arrosage avec de l'eau ph6.3 à laquelle j'ajoute 0.8g par litre d'eau de feeding enhancer greenhouse. Jour47 léger arrosage. Jour48 léger arrosage