Everything good, moving along well into 2 weeks of flower..

7/13 It's maine-ing out. Overcast and misting. I guess it rained last night but not much. Today is my watering day although I think they could've made it until tomorrow. These drastic temp changes makes it hard to get a STEADY routine in place. I watered everything in the 20's a gallon the 10's 1/2 gallon. The 10th planet in the front was still heavy so I didn't water it. I'll keep an eye on it. Temps are much milder. I noticed a few more septoria leaves on the 10th planet which I promptly defoliated. This pheno is flowering. I could've put this week as flowering as several plants have started. I also saw ONE leaf on my chem dog that had septoria on it. ONE f-ing leaf! I was planning on treating this early anyway so I mixed one gallon of plant doctor 3 tsp gallon/gallon which was the recommendation. I'll monitor this plant and continue treating it the next two weeks. I may do foliar too but the mixture is different. It's a systemic so I don't think that matters as much. Considering getting mulch to protect from spores on the soil. My plants look GORGEOUS. I Hate to use such a nice plant as a guennie pig but I'm not going to sit here and watch it progress. I'm lucky it's really not that bad and that it's on a reveg. There's so many leaves that I would be forced to prune anyway. I'm seeing two MAYBE three leaves a morning but I want to get this under control. Last year u let a plant with septoria go and it finished but went to extracts. I've got a pretty good feeling about this plant doctor. I've used it before with good results. Only time will tell though.🤞 EDIT: WENT OVER AT ABOUT 1PM. ITS 2 NOW AND BLUE SKIES AND SUNNY. IM SUPER GLAD I WATERED AND EVEN MORE SO THAT I APPLIED THE PLANT DOCTOR HOW I DID. THE GIRLS ALL LOOKED AMAZING. THE TENTH PLANET I TREATED WITH PLANT DOCTOR LOOKS THE BEST IVE EVER SEEN IT. I FOUND ON LEAVE DEEP ON THE INTERIOR WITJ A SMALL SPOT BUT ITS SOMETHING IM SURE I MISSED THIS MORNING. IF THIS WORKS THIS GOOD ILL BE APPLYING IT TO EVERYTHING EVEN IF ITS JUST PREVENTATIVE. 7/14 Rained last night andcwas still sprinkling when I went over. Amazingly the 10th planet that I treated with the plant doctorcmix had ZERO visible signs of septoria. I did find one leaf on Mt chem dog and two on my mk ultra with the big leaves. It could've been calcium deficiency but I really doubt it because I think I saw THAT as well. I'm going to wait a day or two and if there are still no negative results and the plant is still looking good I'm going to treat AT LEAST the two others that MAY be infected. It's a systemic and can be used proactively and supposably breaks down into p and k after stimulating immune response. I'll monitor a little longer but as it stands I think I'm going to treat the other two just in case. I also need to start feeding. I've watered a lot more than I normally do so obviously the soil won't last as long. This has been some tricky weather but I'm happy with how things are progressing. I probably should've changed this to the first week of flower as several plants are popping pistols everywhere. EDIT: WENT OVER AROUND NOON AND MIXED UP TEO GALLONS OF PLANT DOCTOR PLANNING TO TREAT THE TWO PLANTS BESIDE THE 10TH PLANET. EVERYTHING LOOKED SO PERFECT AND TOMORROW IS MY WATER DAY SO I DECIDED TO HOLD OFF AND APPLY IT WHEN IT NEEDS WATER ANYWAY. I DID NOTICE THAT PLANTS SEEM TO BE FLOWERING MORE AGGREWWIVELY THAN BEFORE. THINGS ARE GETTING INTERESTING. 7/15 It was water day. The girls looked great this morning. I watered everything at least a gallon and 1.5 for the thirstier plants. I treated my big fan leaf mk ultra and my chem dog #4 with the same Plant Doctor mix as i did tge 10th planet beside it. I havent seen ANY septoria on that plant since application and it looks better than ever. I watered them with a half gallon of phed water before doing a soul drench with the gallon of Plant Doctor @ 3tsp/gal. I'm not seeing much septoria but plants are starting flower and I want to nip it in the bud. This product can be used preventatively and I went by the guidelines for medical marijuana. It was 70 earlier this morning. I'll update as I go forward. EDIT: WENT BACK OVER AT 3 AS THE TENPS WERE PIST 90 AND HAD BEEN ALL DAY. I POSTED A SHORT VIDEO BUT EVERYTHING IS LOOKING GREAT. THE PLANT DOCTOR SEEMS TO HAVE HELPED SUBSTANTIALLY. DIDNT FIND ONE SEPTORIA LEAF. STILL IT WILL TAKE A WHILE TO WORK FULLY BUT IM GLAD I DIDNT CHICKEN OUT AND I APPLIED THE RIGHT AMOUNT. IM GOING TO KEEP AN EYE ON THINGS BUT I MIGHT JUST TREAT EVERYTHING PREVENTATIVELY WHICH IS JUST HALF A TSP A GALLON I THINK. IT DEF TRIGGERS A RESPONSE IN THE PLANT. I LOVE IT WHEN SHIT JUST WORKS OYT AND YOU END UP PLEASANTLY SURPRISED. NEXT WATERING ILL PROBABLY DO NUTES. IM DEBATING WHETBER TO TRELLUS OR JUST USE STAKES AND STRINGS ACROSS THE CAGE AS NEEDED. OH WELL. OVER 90 IS TO MUCH FOR ME TO BE OUTSIDE FOR TOO LONG. 7/16 Plant Doctor is doimg its job. I saw a couple septoria leaves on chem dog but it was interior amd I could've missed it. It takes a little bit to get going. I think I'm going to treat the rest of the garden with at least the preventative dose of 1tsp per gallon. I'll wait and see if this keeps it from popping back up. It almost got to 100 yesterday. It was 80 early this morning. I mixed up two gallons of water and gave the thistiest/lightest a half gallon. I'm hoping that will hold everything over until tomorrow which is water day. I'll have to check but I think it might be time to feed too. I def should make sure to treat tjis septoria before focusing on nutes. It says you can mix it with nutes but I'm leary of doing so. I'd rather apply them at seperate times. I'll watch the garden and of I NEED to water I will. I'm hoping what I did will be enough. EDIT: WENT OVER AROUND ONE. IT WAS 93° WITH SUPER HIGH HUMIDITY. IM GLAD I SPLIT THAT TWO GALLONS WITH THOSE FOUR PLANTS THATS FOR SURE! THEY'D PROBABLY BE DROOPED IF I DIDNT. EVERYTHING WAD PRAYING TO THE SUN GODS. WELL, EVERYTHING EXCEPT THE MK ULTRA IN THE 30 AND THE 10TH PLANET. THEY ARENT DROOPING THEY JUST LOOK NORMAL. THEY ARENT "PRAYING" LIKE THE OTHERS. THEY ARE DEFINATELY A LITTLE LIGHT AND ARE LOOKING FORWARD TO THEIR WATERING. AND THEIR FEEDING. THATS FOR SURE. I WAS SUPER HAPPY WITH WHAT I SAW GOING OVER AND THE GIRLS WILL BE ABLE TO HOLD OUT UNTIL THE MORNING. ONE IN SPECIAL KUSH (WHICH GROW AMAZING AND LARGE HERE) IS IN A 10 AND I EVEN GAVE IT A LITTLE WATER THIS MORNING BUT ITS DROOPY. I COULD STILL FEEL A LITTLE BIT OF MOUSTURE EVEN THOUGH IT WAS LIGHT. IT CAN WAIT UNTIL THE MORNING WITH THE REST. IF IT WAS DROOPING BAD I WOULDA WATERED IT. I DONT GET WHY IM HAVING PROBLEMS FINISHING PLANTS IN 10GAL SMART POTS. YEARS AGO I COULD FINISH SOMETHING IN A 5GAL BUCKET! BUT NOW ITS LIKE THE PLANTS I GROW GET FAR TO BIG TO FINISH FLOWERING ON THESE TINY BAGS. ILL MONITER. HOPFULLY IT WILL BE FINE. IF I HAVE TO I SUPPOSE I COULD CUT THE BOTTOM OFF AND PUT THEM IN THE GROUND OR MORE SUBSTRATE BUT THATS NOT SOMETHING I REALLY WANT TO DO. I CANT WAIT TO SEE YOU THESE GIRLS TURN OUT. 7/17 I'm glad I gave those few plants that extra water. It hit 100 yesterday. Plants made it through it OK. It's 80 at 9am. I watered the garden even though it's supposed to rain with a chance of thunderstorms. Everything got at least a gallon. The mk ultra reveg in the 30 got 2gals as did the thirsty special kush on the end. I've figured out which plants use more water and I try to give them a little more. I also fed today. I was hesitant to feed the plants I treated with plant doctor, but I did anyway. 1tsp grow big 2tsp big bloom .5 tsp calmag. I've noticed pistles coming together on a few plants and forming buds. Next week will definitely be labeled flower. The plants treated with plant doctor LOOK great! I've found a few septoria leaves on a couple other plants. No big deal. I was going to treat the rest of the garden preventatively but if a couple more are infected I'll just add them to the rotation. I just need to make sure I follow-up with the next few treatments. Can't say enough good about this plant doctor. 7/18 Well this fucking sucks. It's 35mph wind gusts and windy as hell. It might've rained last night but if it didn't rain much. I spent the morning "trying" to put up little strong or rope supports to help the girls. I ran a rope across the front of the three on tje back to suppirt them. That one works good. I have one going the other way the entire length which helps support some. Then I took string and ran it around each side of a row for supports. So far no observable damage abd the plants all looked awesome. They've been through a lot and are big tough hardy plants. They'll make it through tjis no problem. I'd be more worried if they had big wet flowers on them but by then I'll have the proper supports and maybe a trellis up. I feel for them this morning and I hope that wind doesn't dry out my bags! EDIT: SPIDY SENSE STARTED TINGLING AROUND ONE SO I WENT AND CHECKED. I GUESS WILL POWER ALONE WONT MAKE IT SO THE PLANTS MAKE IT TO WATERING DAY. WIND GUSTS HAVE BEEN HIGHER THAN 35MPH AND IVE SEEN REPORTS OF 25MPH SUSTAINED WIND. I DONT KNOW WHAT IT IS HERE BUT IT DRIED OUT SOME BAGS AND WAS TURNINGVPLANTS SIDEWAYS. BOTH 10TH PLANETS (THEY DRINK ALOT OF WATER) AND THE MK ULTRA REVEG WERE BADLY DROOPING. THE REST "MIGHT" HAVE MADE IT UNTIL MORNING BUT WHATS THE POINT? I ALSO HAVE TO LEAVE EARLY TOMORROW TO TAKE THE WIFE TO THE DOCTORS. WHAT I DECIDED ON WAS TO WATER THE PLANTS THAT DRINK THE MOST 2 GALS AND GIVE THE OTHERS TGATXWERENT DROOPING AND LIGHT 1.5. I GAVE THE TWO IN THE TENS A HALF GALLON EACH. THERE ATE TWO PLANTS AT THE BACK (SPECIAL KUSH AND PINK KUSH) THAT I DECIDED TO HOLD OFF AND WATER TOMORROW. I NOTICED SOME LEAVES WITH THE COMMON "IF THE BROWN SURROUNDS YOUR PLANT IS DROWNED" SO IF THE PLANTS HAVE A LITTLE WEIGHT, LOOK GOOD AND HAVE PRAYING LEAVES THEN I SHOULD PROBABLY WAIT TO WATER. THEY ARE ALL GETTING BEATEN TO SHIT BY THIS WIND STORM. IM SURPRISED THERE IS NO DAMAGE. THESE PLANTS ARE VERY STRONG. RESILIENT. I DIDNT WATER THE 50 EITHER AND IM UP IN THE AIR ABOUT WATERING IT TOMORROW. Edit 2 I went over around six once the wind died down a little. All the plants I didn't water look great. It's jist the reveges that took it the worst and has some fading leaves. I fixed it with nutes but it doesn't fix the leaves already pale. The reverse mostly are the ones seeing any stress from this storm. The large special kush in the front has buds like an inch long now. Soon it will be time to treat with plant doctor again. 7/19 Well that was a ridiculous windstorm that lasted all day. It was 54 when I was there this morning. I watered the two kush's in the back with a gallon and the 60 with a gallon. Now it's 9 and 70 but it's not supposed to be as hot. This weather is crazy. I defoliated some leaves from the 10th planet that I treated first with plant doctor. Tomorrow it's due for its second treatment. The other plants are only a couple days different and are doing good. Next watering I think I may treat everything. It's a small enclosure. That would be the smart move. I'm having some leaves yellow up on two of the plants that reveged. It sucks because I know I've overwatered a little on occasion but that's because it's 100° with strong wind running through my bags and drying them out. I give them their 10% so its not that I'm not giving enough at a time. I've also noticed some random pest damage. I'm considering using citric acid as I have it on hand and it supposably also helps with septoria. If I do it it will be a diy of Dr. Zymes. The way I look at it is these are outdoor plants. This isn't a sterile environment and shit like this is going tp happen. I saw a leaf that was almost totally eaten. Probably jpn beetle or grasshopper/cricket but they certainly got a good meal! I need to spend more time in the garden.

Day 55 - going into the 9th week..... trimmed em, stabilized the flowering solution.... lookin nice..... buds startin allll over... haha 👍😎

let's hope it keeps growing ... because apparently it wants to bloom ... it's cloudy and they do not get much sun as in summer ... it grows slow but healthy ...

Everything chugging along even the kiwi bounced back a little prolly gna chop in a week trichs are where they need to be but now I jus invested in a whole separate setup for perpetual when I go back to photos but for now playing with the autos wich brings me too let me shout out to ganja farmer seeds for letting me do a partnership and them hooking me up with some beans to try so I am currently germanting 3 different cultivars (AUTOS) from ganja farmer seed Co. And I will be doing a diary on each of they're strains in my new system can't wait !!!!

Had some humidity issues been watering with spring water until I get something to filter the tap water Jan.8th amnesia haze 1 got bit taller so I did some more LST

Some strains/cuts just need to be grown back to back, so far all 3 of these qualify. This strain is on track to run a little longer than most of the crop with the flush atleast a week away but I can already tell it will be worth the extra time. 2 and 3 are on the left and 1 is the tall one on the front right. They have a pungent creamy vanilla frosting like nose on them. All are very consistent in bud structure they are just put together very nicely. From this crop and my last crop only I think I could fill a 4x8 with fire using one of each plant in 3 gallon bags. This is the main reason why I prefer photoperiods these days other than the fact they are generally easier to grow, I like being able to run the same plant back again when they are at this level you cant go wrong. I had a wisdom tooth taken out today so I'm gonna have some time to take some good pics I think which is over due if anyone wants to check back in when the cover photo changes. Rain science grow bags are far and away the best bags I've used and if you want to try them they are inexpensive and you get 10% with the code bangdang. Took the pics on Saturday with my 40mm free hand without any extra lighting just the flash

Harvested BB2 and GG2 on day 84 with mostly cloudy/milky trichomes and scattered amber because I prefer the Sativa daytime buzz. I think these two are further along because they showed the deficiencies. Both were flushed twice within a week and chopped with a dry pot. Last nutrients were day 73. Nothing but PH 6.4 water since day 76. I expect to harvest BB1 and GG1 at around day 92, checking trichomes everyday. I'm guessing the yield will be greater for the second two. Will post harvest pics and videos for each set of two plants after drying and getting dry weights for each plant.

Remember that, however you are played, or by whom, your soul is in your keeping alone. Even though those who presume to play you be kings or men of power, when you stand before God, you cannot say, 'But I was told by others to do thus,' or that virtue was not convenient at the time. This will not suffice. Remember that. Day:18 84°F and 65% RH (VPD) for the vegetative stage. Approximately 1.15kPa(assuming leaf temperature is about 2°F cooler than the air), which falls right into the ideal vegetative sweet spot (0.8kPa to 1.2kPa). At 1.15kPa, plants can draw water and nutrients efficiently without risking stress or wilting. It keeps the leaf pores (stomata) open, allowing for ideal carbon dioxide intake and maximizing vegetative growth. VPD is determined by the leaf's temperature, not just the ambient air. Because leaves usually run 1° to 3°F cooler than room air under bright grow lights, my actual VPD will be slightly lower, closer to the 1.0kPa mark. As she transitions from vegetative growth to flowering, one can gradually lower the humidity (to around 45–60%) and drop temperatures slightly to prevent disease from settling inside dense buds when they appear. Night:6 At 70°F and 60% relative humidity, Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD) is 0.86 kPa. This is right on the cusp of whats optimal for the vegetative stage. During the nighttime, plants generally close their stomata and undergo cellular respiration rather than photosynthesis. Transpiration slows to a near stop, making VPD less critical at night than during the day. However, maintaining a nighttime VPD between 0.8 and 1.0 kPa is highly beneficial in that it ensures the air is dry enough to prevent powdery mildew or bud rot, but moist enough to keep the plant from undergoing unnecessary stress. This range keeps the environment comfortable for cellular processes and prevents large atmospheric swings. Keeping it all flowing. (Not pushing them yet, these are photoperiods) The optimal soil (root zone) temperature for cellular root respiration and nutrient uptake in cannabis is between 68F & 72F This narrow range balances biological energy production (cellular respiration) with the dissolved oxygen levels in the soil, maximizing plant growth and health. Warmer soils hold significantly less dissolved oxygen. When soil temperature exceeds 74F oxygen depletion occurs, inhibiting cellular respiration almost entirely, At 68-72F root cells generate optimal adenosine triphosphate (ATP) via respiration to power root-tip elongation and the active transport of water and nutrients. Too Hot (Above 78F) Root respiration increases, demanding more oxygen, while the water's oxygen-carrying capacity drops. This creates a prime environment for anaerobic pathogens and Pythium (root rot). Too Cold (Below 60F) Root metabolism and cellular respiration slow to a crawl. This severely impairs nutrient and water absorption, leading to yellowing, wilting, and phosphorus deficiencies. A lot depends on whether it's automatic or photoperiod; with photoperiod, there is not as much of a need to push "hard" as the real countdown only begins once the flower is initiated. Automatics, on the other hand, the chronological "clock" begins ticking the moment the seed germinates. It is of critical importance that the seedling growth gets off to the races, understanding that early growth is like compound interest, which will pay off come harvest. This reality is why getting autoflowers "off to the races" early on yields such exponential benefits. The "compound interest" is directly related to the surface area of the leaves. Larger, faster-growing seedlings process more light and build bigger root networks early on, which translates into an explosion of vertical and lateral growth during their short vegetative window. The margins for error are so thin with autoflowers; this early-stage momentum depends on several critical practices. Seedlings exposed to increased atmospheric CO2 levels early in life will develop at an increased rate. To effectively "extend" or optimize the capacity of Photosystem II (PSII) for increased photosynthetic efficiency. In standard oxygenic photosynthesis, Photosystem II (PSII) is naturally limited to the red-light spectrum, peaking at 680nm. Extending its light-harvesting capacity past 700nm into the far-red region requires bypassing the natural limits of standard chlorophyll a. Adding 730 nm (far-red) LEDs alongside standard red/blue lights has been shown to increase canopy photosynthesis by 20–30% in several crops by acting synergistically with shorter wavelengths. However, the limitation is that excessive, pure IR/Far-red light (without accompanying red light) can trigger the "shade avoidance response," causing plants to grow tall, weak, and spindly rather than robust. Utilizing infrared light (specifically the 700-750 nm far-red range) is a viable method to boost photosynthetic efficiency. It acts as a bridge to allow PSII to utilize a broader spectrum of light, breaking the traditional 700 nm barrier. UVR8-mediated signaling (often in conjunction with CRY proteins) triggers protective mechanisms that maintain the stability of the photosynthetic apparatus (including LHCII and reaction center proteins), thus ensuring that the efficiency of Photosystem II remains higher in UV-B-exposed plants compared to plants lacking this receptor. ΦPSII indictates the rate of electron transfer from water to plastoquinone, which drives the production of ATP and NADPH. There is a close link between ΦPSII and the true rate of CO2 fixation (Φ*co2). ETR stands for Electron Transport Rate. It measures the speed at which electrons are moved through the thylakoid membranes in a plant's chloroplasts during the light-dependent reactions of photosynthesis. Infrared light (particularly Near-Infrared or NIR) improves cellular energy by interacting directly with the electron transport chain (ETC) in mitochondria. This process boosts adenosine triphosphate production, which acts as a metabolic coefficient multiplier by accelerating enzyme activity dramatically. Extend then multiply. Far-Red photons interact with plant photoreceptors to accelerate the plant’s biological "clock" or trigger a shade-avoidance response. Autoflowers don't use the plant's biological clock, although the IR will initiate a shade avoidance and make them stretchy. You can just add equal measures of 660nm-680nm to negate the shade avoidance effect. Replacing nights' "darkness" with a combination of IR+ and 660nm. Because autoflowers don't require a dark period to flower, many growers just blast them with light. 18/6 24/0. However, this ignores the plant's metabolic rhythms, where daytime photosynthesis (light reactions) must be perfectly balanced with nighttime carbon fixation and assimilation (Calvin cycle) to avoid bottlenecking plant development. Cellular respiration is a 24/7 process, but it can only function while the plant has the free oxidative capacity to do so. A 100% photosynthetically active leaf cannot perform cellular respiration. The viral trend of defoliation of every leaf that isn't "getting enough light" is of great detriment overall, putting 100% of the cellular respiratory "workload" and responsibility on the 0/4/6 hours of darkness in sub-optimal conditions for enzymatic activity. Photosynthesis captures nearly 100% of the initial energy as carbon, while cellular respiration is the process that unlocks 90% of that captured energy into usable ATP so the plant can use it. Respiration is considered only roughly 30% to 40% efficient. It captures enough of the potential energy in glucose to synthesize around 30 to 38 ATP molecules per glucose molecule. The remaining 60% to 70% of the energy in the sugar is not captured in ATP; instead, it naturally escapes into the environment as heat, which helps regulate plant temperature. In plants, the primary enzymes of the Electron Transport Chain (ETC) and the ATP synthase complexes are typically adapted to function optimally in warmer temperatures (roughly 77°F to 95°F, depending on the specific plant strain). As temperatures rise within this physiological range, molecular collisions increase, speeding up respiration and ATP production. The cannabis plant has a branched respiratory pathway. During heat or cold stress, plants activate Alternative Oxidase (AOX). AOX burns sugars to dissipate energy as heat rather than coupling it to ATP production. This pathway actually functions optimally at elevated temperatures to help protect the cell from the damaging build-up of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) during heat stress. Enzyme activity generally scales with heat; there is a strict biological limit. If canopy temperatures in a grow room exceed 104°F, the enzymes and their supporting lipid membranes lose stability. Not saying you need to go crazy, just optimize nights the same as we optimize days. Phosphorus is the driving force behind early seedling development. It acts as the "energy hub" of the plant, directly driving cell division, robust root growth, and the creation of DNA. Without an adequate, easily accessible supply early on, the plant's overall growth potential and final yield can suffer permanently.

Ende BW 3 sind wir nun. Die Blätter sind etwas matt und die hatte Lichtbrand, davon hat sie sich jetzt aber erholt und fängt an schöne Blüten zu bilden. Es gab noch etwas zusätzlichen Blütendünger von Wizzy's Garten aufs Substrat, sie wurde ordentlich entlaubt und lollipoped und jetzt kann es weitergehen.

Stopped feeding this week. I'm pretty sure they should be ready to chop in a week or 2. I hate looking at them with my microscope so I've gotten pretty good a judging when they are finished. I love ILGM. They always come thru with solid genetics!!

I welcome everyone who came in for the first time or has long been following my blueberries. the girl blossoms and smells and already showers herself with trichomes. two days ago I used iron chelate on a sheet to stimulate photosynthesis and also, due to phosphorus deficiency, introduced dry water-soluble fertilizer NPK 10/54/10

D64: Well, as I mentioned in yesterday´s report, she has some kind of deficiency I cannot tell why, so I presume it is salt buildup - which I can see from outside the pot a little more than usual - from the heavy feeding. So in that regard I flushed her and watered until it runs with 6.2 pH water. Did a little defoliation for the last time, from now on she won´t be getting anymore training nor defoliation. I expected her to be a little bigger by now but at least the seems like a fast runner and will probably finish on the estimated time by RQS of 10-11 weeks. D65: The deficiency don´t seem to have evolved. From day to night she developed some nice purple on the leaves! D66: The defiency seems to have stopped and she has a lot of dying leaves, I think it´s natural and not related to the deficiency. D69: She is getting ready.. the thricomes are looking overall about 60-70% cloudy with some clear and amber, some more days, maybe a week and she´s done. D70: Well, last day of the week and unfortunately last day of the life of this beautiful girl. I guess she had 1 or 2 more weeks still but today I woke up and she had mold – Botrytis -. It was on the low buds, closer to the ground even tho I didn´t even water, but the problem I found out later what it was: 88% humidity during the night. Now, I trimmed her all and put to dry, which will be a problem since the humidity outside is 90% and it doesn´t stop raining in this time of the year. Let´s see how things go... keep following for the harvest week and review in a few. Thank you very much for reading my diary. Peace ✌️

Another week and the tent is bursting with a very sweet candy citrus aroma, then bam your hand hit a nug and it's like the cotton candy mod stepped in. I've stop using silica now since I'm two week out from harvesting.

Final defoliation was yesterday, she stretched a lot and is now in full flower she get bigger then any of my other plants and smells amazing She did not stress at all from me cutting away so many branch and leaves

Vegetationswoche 14 - 10.07. – 17.07.2026 Diese Woche gibt es eigentlich nicht viel zu berichten. Die Utopia wächst weiter vor sich hin, sieht gesund aus und entwickelt sich genau so, wie ich mir das vorgestellt habe. Ich habe nach wie vor kaum eingegriffen, sondern sie einfach wachsen lassen. Gegossen wurde einmal mit etwa 4 Litern Wasser.

A few more weeks for the strawberry banana I’ll start pulling the Tropicana cookies and the wedding glue down this week