Not an overly impressive strain and I would say she was not that hard to grow. If I even grew this one again I would let it go naturally with some LST. Wanted more grape flavours but they don't really come through in the smoke. There's a bit of a sharp fruity smell that's sort of piney with a hint of fuel at the end. The smoke is not too flavourful in my opinion but that just means I didn't grow it well. Super tight nugs so be careful with humidity as stated above. Also she's a bit of a light feeder so be careful with your nutes. As you can see I burnt her tips and over fed her a lot. Not a bad yield though! I've only really smoked the lowers on this one so far so that gave me a bit of a racey high, just slightly racey. I would accredit that to the lowers not being mature enough at chop. The plant is super dense and since I mainlined it the lowers didn't receive enough light. I tried to let the lowers mature more but the plant stopped maturing when I chopped the tops, this caused stress and the plant just shut down basically. Not sure if I would grow Blimburn's GDP again until I grow the real GDP.

So there's a few things going on here. First, im not entirely sure if this is amnesia. I started 3 grows at the same time and have forgotten to label them when i've repotted them. This is the most sativa out of the batch of 3 (others are girl scout cookies and monster skittlez) and its supposed to flower for 12 weeks or something like that. However, this is week 7 of flower (or possibly 8, still finding it difficult to pinpoint that) and looking at the trichromes i have a feeling that she is ready for harvest. I'm hoping you guys can help me out here - so theres two questions id like to ask: - does this look like an amnesia fotoperiod plant? and, - according to the trichrome shots : is she about ready for harvest? thanks!

Day 9 above the soil: Nothing exciting to really report on during this quiet phase. The triplets are happy enough in their new homes and have been hopefully scouting the area without of roots ready for gorging.I have only given them boosts teas , a little silicon and calmag , and the coco girls had their 1st mini feed today with the shogun. I am hoping to keep just below too much runnoff and managing to avoid build up of the salts. I will do a flush on this run of the coco but am mindful of the ecothrive charge being built so dont want to shake of that frass. Growth wise fir a week odd old I cannot complain at all. I can see the difference between these and photoperiods seedlings clearly. Rhe development is quick to proper looking leaves and nodes wanting to fly out too. The yellowing on a few of the girls is not a worry yet. No different growth between the LOS and coco so far but let's see what a feeding schedule does soon.

have had some temperature problems with the change of the season but i think im dialed in now. this first run really has been trial and error. but so far the buds are swelling nicely. zkittles has more bud sites, and is taller and bushier. blue dream buds are already bigger than zkittles

💩Holy Crap Growmies We Are Back💩 So what do you say we have some fun 👈 We got some EXOTIC SEEDS 👉 👻👻👻MONSTERMASH👻👻👻 😛 Well my friends we are just at the 7 day mark and it's the 2 headed monstermash clash who's gonna win 🏆 the left of the right👈 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

Our Zamnesia photoperiod plants have also started their journey into the magical flowering period, this is the first week. So born on September 1st, on October 1st they went into flowering and these are the photos of the first week, when the ladies begin to understand that they have to do their magic. ---- The general environmental conditions are good, the heat has increased a little more but for the first weeks of flowering it is not a big problem, let's remember to never exceed 27 degrees centigrade in the last 4 weeks to avoid compromising the quality of the flowers. If necessary, open the growbox but never let it exceed 27-30 degrees where 30 is already a lot. The positive thing is that as soon as the lights go out the change is already a little visible and as autumn progresses we will also improve. The humidity is fluctuating but we try to control it with two dehumidifiers when necessary, pushing both of them possibly not into the growbox but directly into the room. (I dehumidify the room and the air in the growbox should be dehumidified too) --- We are at a top secret level here so I can tell you that it is called XXXX Test 2 and we really like how they are growing. They were practically identical so I decided to top one and let it grow like a bush keeping some branches underneath but not in main lining style. The other one is growing straight and beautiful as the sun. Very wide internodal distance, wide plant, definitely to be supported soon. --- Fertilization schedule - The fertilizers are always Plagron and I am following the table that I generated on the site depending on the chosen substrate. Create your own card and follow it, never be presumptuous my friend as I have been in the past, follow the card and look at the plants, not all need the same amount of fertilizer. We have come to the time to give a good dose of iron in the first weeks of flowering, already of race life not sprayed but mixed with fertilizers. Alga Bloom is now running instead than alga grow ---- https://plagron.com/en - Power Roots - 1ml/l - Alga Bloom - 4ml/l - Pure Zym - 1ml/l - Sugar Royal - 1ml/l - Vita Race - 5ml/l --- Dehumidifier now runs between 50% and 55% --- Plagron 100% Organic pack can be found on Zamnesia at: https://www.zamnesia.io/en/11457 -pla gron-easy-pack-natural.html --- new strain coming soon no description of the strain because it is a secret - Fully organic soil and nutrients -- https://plagron.com/en buy on www.zamnesia.io - air system --- https://www.secretjardin.com/ - Growbox & Light —— www.Marshydro.eu - Music and sound --- I made my girls listen to 432hz frequencies and music from www.radionula.com - Z --- You can find these seeds, much more from the world of cannabis, mushrooms and an incredible series of accessories and gadgets on the reference site not only mine but of many growers —— https://www .zamnesia.io

She seems to be overfed, showing yellowing here and there. I might have messed up the Ph because I did not adjust fhe ph of nutrients mix. I assumed it was ph corrected. Now, I am adjusting the Ph and reducing feeding. Let’s hope that she recovers next week.

Noch wenige Tage 😋

3ª Settimana di Fioritura 💐 Ok Amici della Canapa 💚 16.12.24 È stato installato il nuovo LED di Spider🕷️Farmer ☀️... Bello e ben fatto! Spero sia anche efficiente 👍🏻 La LEMON OG 🍋🌊 di SSSC 💜🐘💜 è propio bella sotto la luce della SF2000 ☀️

4 Purple Push Pops PPP (grew 2023 outside). Clones from my clone guy 1000w LED, 4G Autopots,, coco/perlite 65/35, Jacks RO + dry koolblom and humic acid , RO water, AC pro Controller and T8, 5x5 GG Tent with extension Garage grow SoCal Another hot week in the garage averaging 88°. The girls are starting to get fat and enter the ripening stage. Purples are strong. I got purple trichomes!! We’re running just under 1000ppm with no issues. We switched nutes and reservoir funk is gone. This weeks accomplishments: Switch from GH to Jacks RO Install separate reservoirs for black cherry gelato and purple push pops Clean all autopots and reservoir lines. Install separate lines for black cherry gelato This weeks issues: Spider mites. Found them in the outside grow and found a few leaves with them inside. Big time nightmare. Primarily on the gelatos inside. Doing manual scouting and removal every day. Long term issues It’s hot. High 80s low 90s all week. So the same - Cooling and VPD targets during heat waves Preventing the spread of mites and mold issues during high humidity conditions Managing girlfriend expectations through harvest. I hope you all are having as much fun as I am. Best of luck gromies. Check out my black cherry gelato grow and compare side by side with my indoor grow- same clone batch. This should be a great comparison of indoor versus outdoor grows on the same schedule, same nutes and same clone batch 👍

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

🇺🇸 First week of flower has started. Still watering with plain dechlorinated water only. I’ll probably need to hook up the carbon filter soon as the smell is slowly starting to come through. The Wedding is looking beautiful and very healthy with massive leaves. I’m a bit worried they might block too much light from reaching the buds, but for now everything looks great. Chemdoggin is also in flower and starting to give off a light sweet aroma. I think it might have had a little too much water recently, so I’m easing back on the watering for now while making sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely. 🇨🇿 Začíná první týden květu. Zalévám jen odstátou vodou. Brzy bude potřeba zapojit pachový filtr, protože holky začínají vonět. Wedding je krásná a zdravá, má obrovské listy. Trochu se obávám, aby přes ně měly palice dostatek světla. Chemdoggin je taky v květu a začíná lehce sladce vonět. Pravděpodobně měl v poslední době trochu moc zálivky, takže teď méně, ale zároveň si hlídám, aby living soil nevyschl.

Green House feeded one is simply the happiest lady in the tent, growing big frosty buds. Advanced Nutrients one is recovering and growing colorful buds. Both phenos smell like grapes just like described in the name…

Right from the bat this strain was awesome, I would recommend potting up these plants or just keeping in a smaller container, they really really like to be in a small pot. I have another clone of the big pheno in flower now in a 1gal with coco and she is taking off like crazy.