Heyókȟa I desire to study nature, and to know better the mind of God, the creator, Holy art thou, O Father. 12x12=144, A dodecahedron is a polyhedron with 12 faces, and in coordination chemistry, it refers to a geometry where ligands surround a central metal atom (in this case, Magnesium) in a specific, 8-coordinate arrangement. Dodecahedrane is a hydrocarbon, meaning it's composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms. The carbon atoms are arranged at the corners of a dodecahedron, a 3D shape with 12 pentagonal faces. The water molecules in the dodecahedron form hydrogen bonds that are individually slightly weaker than in either the dimer or the tetramer. However, because three-quarters of the O -H groups in the dodecahedron form hydrogen bonds, it has a more negative energy per molecule than has either the dimer or the tetramer. Magnesium (Mg2+) is the essential, central metal ion in the chlorophyll molecule, crucial for photosynthesis by enabling light absorption and energy transfer. It is chelated by four nitrogen atoms within the porphyrin (or chlorin) ring structure. Chlorophyll appears green because it reflects light in the green region of the visible spectrum, specifically between 490 and 570 nm. The main resonance electronic frequency of a neutral Magnesium (Mg) atom corresponds to the transition from the ground state to the first excited state. Resonance Line Wavelength of Mg2+: 285.1nm (UVB light). The central atom of the chlorophyll molecule is Magnesium (Mg2+), which is coordinated within a porphyrin ring. The electronic "resonance frequency" of this central atom—meaning the frequency at which its electrons absorb energy—is primarily driven by the electronic transitions (ETR) of the surrounding conjugated chlorin ring structure, rather than a discrete atomic transition of the Magnesium atom itself. The resonant electronic frequencies of the chlorophyll porphyrin (technically, a chlorin) ring are determined by the energy required to promote π-electrons within its conjugated system, primarily appearing in the blue and red regions of the visible spectrum. In standard physics, Chloryphyll b has peak absorption at 460nm (Blue). If we take the peak wavelength 460nm and a UV-B, UVR8 peak absorption wavelength 285nm Tryptophan-285 (W285) Sensing protein. 460/285=1.618 Φ, "natural harmony" and the "structure of light". The cryptochrome photoreceptor (CRY) is a UV-A/blue light receptor that shares this dual sensitivity with several other biological structures and functions, including significant sequence similarity and a common evolutionary ancestor with DNA photolyase enzymes. These are light-activated enzymes that use blue/UV-A light to repair DNA damage caused by UV-B radiation in plants. Dodecahedrane (C20H20) is a hydrocarbon with a cage-like structure where carbon atoms form 12 pentagonal faces (a regular dodecahedron). It is highly symmetric (icosahedral), contains no delocalized electrons (no aromaticity), and has minimal angle strain, but significant torsional strain. Water Dodecahedron (H2O) forms hydrogen-bonded cages. While individual hydrogen bonds in this structure are weaker than in the linear dimer or tetramer, it has a more negative total energy per molecule. This is because three-quarters (75%) of the groups are involved in hydrogen bonding, creating a very stable, closed-shell configuration. a 3D carbon hydrocarbon (C20H20) to stable water clusters in hydrate, while the Magnesium ion acts as the central activator within a conjugated ring in biological systems, with its electronic absorption dominated by the ring, not the atom itself. Effective quantum efficiency of photosystem II, often denoted as ΦPSII In horticultural lighting, adding 730 nm (far-red) LEDs alongside standard red/blue lights has been shown to increase canopy photosynthesis by 20–30% in several crops by acting synergistically with shorter wavelengths. However, the limitation is that excessive, pure IR/Far-red light (without accompanying red light) can trigger the "shade avoidance response," causing plants to grow tall, weak, and spindly rather than robust. Knowing is half the battle however, engineering or utilizing infrared light (specifically the 700-750 nm far-red range) is a viable method to boost photosynthetic efficiency. It acts as a bridge to allow PSII to utilize a broader spectrum of light, breaking the traditional 700 nm barrier. Extend, then multiply. UVR8-mediated signaling (often in conjunction with CRY proteins) triggers protective mechanisms that maintain the stability of the photosynthetic apparatus (including LHCII and reaction center proteins), thus ensuring that the efficiency of Photosystem II remains higher in UV-B-exposed plants compared to plants lacking this receptor. ΦPSII indictates the rate of electron transfer from water to plastoquinone, which drives the production of ATP and NADPH. There is a close link between ΦPSII and the true rate of CO2 fixation (Φ*co2), particularly in C4 plants. Effective quantum efficiency of photosystem II, often denoted as ΦPSII, represents the proportion of light absorbed by Photosystem II (ΦPSII) that is actually used in photosynthetic electron transport. It is a key indicator of how efficiently a plant is using light for photosynthesis, as opposed to losing it as heat or fluorescence. ΦPSII (effective quantum yield of photosystem II) functions primarily as a "multiplier" (a coefficient of efficiency) rather than an additive factor when estimating the overall photosynthetic electron transport rate (ETR). Multipliers are considered far more beneficial than additions because they generate exponential growth, leverage existing resources to their full potential, and create sustainable, self-multiplying capacity, rather than just incremental, linear increases. Humans, and most other mammals, rely on other mechanisms, such as nucleotide excision repair, to manage and repair UV-induced DNA damage. As such, humans do not have the direct, light-driven repair mechanism that photolyase offers in plants.

Lo strain gorilla punch sta crescendo notevolmente ha raggiunto l altezza di 107 cm Al centro l amnesia haze è cresciuta con gli internodi piu corti restando bassa e larga molto positiva per quanto riguarda l altezza la.luce penetra in modo uniforme prendendo anche gli internodi piu bassi A destra lo strain purple lemonade come notate l apicale è rimasto in basso mezzo/topping 😅 Run off 1.9 ec Ph 6.1

Tall. And. Volume

Everything is not as accurate as I would like to say, but I wanted you guys to see what I can do

We’re deep into Week 8, and Blue Banana Cream is stacking up beautifully. Trichomes are looking frosty, covering the buds in a thick, sticky layer—definitely a strain that’s going to shine post-cure. The aroma has intensified compared to earlier weeks, now pushing out a stronger creamy, fruity scent with a slight gas undertone. Every time I open the tent, it hits harder. The buds are swelling up nicely, transitioning from airy to more mid-compact density. Pistils are still mostly white, meaning it’s got a bit more time before it fully ripens. One thing I’ve noticed—the branches are starting to lean from the weight, so some light support might be needed to prevent them from bending too much in the final stretch. I’m keeping temps at 18-20°C and humidity around 55-60% to ensure a proper finish. With harvest around the corner, it’s just about watching those trichomes shift from clear to cloudy/amber and letting this one reach its peak.

5ª Settimana di Fioritura 💐 Ecco la giovane Sweet Amnesia Haze 💚🤩 che fa crescere i suoi fiori

Info should be in the video ;)

Final week I’ll be chopping them in 2 days. Gonna try the 48hrs of darkness. They look so good to me. I can’t wait to see what they can do!!! Next grow journey HARVEST DRY. CURE 😱😱😱😱. Wish me luck. Any and all TIPS APPRECIATED!!!!

G Z 1 In first week of flower G Z 2 In 3rd week G Z 3 first week G Z 4 in first week G Z 5 in second week of flowering G Z 6 also in first week should i count their weeks like this or consider all at first week of flowering? I am not good at flowering stage before! But i have hope for this gro

Day 29 - 660 ml, Starting to feed them for flowering, half of dose according to biobizz schedule (ph 6.5)(35 cm) Day 30 - 1L water (ph 6.7)(38 cm) Day 31 - 660 ml, half of dose according to biobizz schedule, planning to lolipop them this weekend (ph 6.5)(41 cm) Day 32 - 1.6 L water (ph 6.6)(44 cm) Day 33 - 660 ml, half of dose according to biobizz schedule + shaving their legs/lolipop (ph 6.5)(48 cm) Day 34 - 1L water (ph 6.6)(51 cm) Day 35 - 1L water with half dose according to biobizz schedule (ph 6.5)(57 cm)

Defoliating weekly

Hey guys so another week has past these lady's are filling out nicely crystals forming everywhere . All looking fantastic and should start to fatten right up over next few weeks 😀

8/14 Everything looked beautiful this morning. Seems like I've got the watering schedule down better. I do have one gmo that looks hungry so I need to increase nutes. At least on that plant. Toasted toffy has little spits that could be water marks, pests or septoria. I don't think it's septoria. In the pastvi lost far more leaves when I had septoria. I've been crazy busy. I'm surprised things are going this well. I need to put up the final supports so I can add to them once I've got big heavy buds. I was really stoked to see everything doing so well. The plant in the 50gallon is the furthest in flower. I'm so grateful to have the ability to grow high quality cannabis for myself amd my wife. There's nothing quite like it. That hash I made turned out great. I think I'll press it today. Supports will be done this week. Saw a few aphids on the plant I cut down. Earwigs aren't here this summer or there would be NO aphids. Plus when I cleaned out the insides this morning I found some dead leaves WAY in the middle by the stalk. They would've eaten that shit if they were here. Birds and other predators seem to be keeping pillars at bay. I'm not seeing the damage and when I do sfind one it's absolutely tiny like a newborn. I'll think about whether I need to spray BT. 8/15 That fucking cancel button always fucks everything out. I was done no I need to start over. Didn't water last night. Found pm on my gmo in the 30. Interior of the plant. Should've defoliated better and earlier. Oh well. I'll treat with k bicarb or plant doctor. I'll have to think about it. Other plants are looking good. Well they all are. I just hate pm. I can't isolate it due to local laws so it is what it is. Nothing I haven't dealt with before. Watered today. The middle gmo in the 30 got 1.5 gallons. The other plants each got a gallon. Including the one in the 10gal and 50 gal. Its supposed to rain but only like .1. I also chose to feed today. All plants got a gallon. I DID NOT WATER THE EVENT HORIZON IN THE MIDDLE AND THE SHERB PIE AS THEY WERE PRAYING AND HEAVY. I need to get these supports up. I'll update as I go. Oh and one thing I remembered is that, I didn't properly sanitize the trellis nets I installed on the plant that has pm (non visible today but still). I harvested the plant that used that bet last year was harvested in two stages. The bottom I let go way later and ended up with a little pm on the stuff I left for hash material and it got some pm. I wonder if that's whete this came from. 8/16 Death in the family this morning. I couldn't decide if I should use organocide plant doctor or not. It's a systemic It's been discontinued and reformulated. It's a systemic fungicide. Instead I mixed two tsp potassium bicarbonate with a little dawn in a half gallon mister. I used gloves and defoliated everything that had pm on it. I checked the plants next to it and luckily it hasn't spread yet....but it will. I feel safer using the k bicarb. I'll do more research and try to find the best way to tackle this. I don't want to get rid of the plant and due to local ordinance I can't isolate it. If I can keep it to this one plantvthat would be fine. I'd just use it for extracts. So glad I didn't use all that netting and put up tjosr supports. I'll need to disinfect them if I decide to use them. We'll see. Plants are coming right along flowering. WENT BACK OVER AND DEFOLIATED A BUNCH OF fan leaves and interior stuff to promote airflow. Still saw pm on that plant u had treated earlier with k bicarb. I can't isolate due to laws and I'm not willing to discard this massive monster cropped plant. So I'm going to treat it. I started by removing everything infected and improving airflow on that plant and all the others. I didn't make it to one event horizon. I plan to treat the infected plant with Organocide Plant Doctor since its what I have on hand and I've had good luck. It's a systemic. After I treat the one plant and see that it didn't hurt the plant I'll use a preventative dosage on the other plants. I've battled wpm several times. This is something I'm very familiar with. What sucks is it's totally my fault it happened due to grower error. This has set back me puttingvup my supports as well. Plants look good woth a haircut. Also the toasted toffy had some leaves removed with spots that looked like septoria. I think nutes havecreally kicked things in gear. Now there are little buds on plants. 8/17 BAGS still seemed heavy so I didn't water. It's been MUCH cooler. It's 63 at 9am. It would normally be 80 by now so maybe they aren't using as much water. I watered the the toasted toffy I missed last round but the Sherb Pie still had weight to it. I also watered the GMO on the far side and the one in the 30 as the seemed a little lighter. I looked in and I couldn't find a SPOT of powder mildew on the plant! I know it will come back but on this 100% rh day there isn't a spot I can find! I'm going to go check on them later today. Do some more defoliation and treat the plants with Plant Doctor to try to mitigate the spread of the P.M. Very suprised the k bicarb worked like that. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 11. I WATERED THE TWO THAT DIDNT GET WATERED LAST TIME. THE EVENT HORIZON AND THE SHERB PIE. IT WAS COLD AND OVERCAST. TEMPS HAVE BEEN MUCH COOLER. SOON AS I WATERED THE SUN CAME OHT AND THE TEMP WENT UP. I WENT THROUGH THE PLANTS I MISSED AND SEFOLIATED LEAVES AND INTERIOR BRANCHES TO INCREASE AIRFLOW. SURPRISED TO STILL SEE NO PM WITH 100% HUMIDITY. I WENT THROUGH EVERY PLANT. ILL NEED TO GO TJROUGH AGAIN BUT TJIS IS MUCH BETTER. THE TOASTED TOFFY THAT MAY HAVE SEPTORIA I WILL TREAT TONOGHT WITH PLANT DOCTOR. I REMOVED ANYTHING LOOKING INFECTED. I LSTed THE BIGGEST BRANCHES WITH CLIPS TO THE BAG AMD TWINE. SO AIRFLOW IS MUCH BETTER. I THEN REMOVED A BU CH OF THE MIDDLE. I COULD TAKE MORE BUT ON OUTDOOR HARVESTS THAT LITTLE STUFF GOES IN EXTRACTS. I PUT A FEW HOURS IN TODAY. IM GOING BACK AND ILL TEST THE PLANT DOCTOR ON THE TOASTED TOFFY. BUT IF THE K BICARB WORKS THIS GOOD ILL JUST KEEP USING THAT. 8/18 It started sprinkling when I left this morning. I did more defoliation on a few different plants. Including the healthiest GMO. It seems like things should be further in flower but it is what it is. I'm not doing clones again. Only reason I did is because I lost my 72 seedlings and depleted my seed supply. I hate treating pm. Lost Coast Plant Therapy I'd really whete its at when it comes to treating pm. I might just order that. My commercial buddy told me that he wouldn't use the plant doctor and not to "spray shot all over my plants". He's probably right. I see something small and try to overcurrent. I dont see any more septoria looking leaves on the toasted toffy since I lsted it and removed damaged leaves. I was going to use the fungicide plant doctor on that and then use it ad a preventative. He's probably right. I've put a lot of work in defoliation and such. It WILL spread but it hasn't yet. I removed what I saw. I was going to hit it again with k bicarb but it said it should be weekly treatments.i hope I'm doing things right. I shouldn't be this worried about pm but I've got am anxiety disorder. I'll fully sterilize (AGAIN) my posts and trellis netting before I instal it. I'll probably go check on them later. It's hard to avoid pm with 100% humidity and 30° temp swings. I've got a few lights so maybe this winter I'll do indoor. I'll try to keep this updated. LOOKING BACK AT PRIOR DIARIES I GUESS IM RIGHT WHERE I SHOULD BE FLOWERING WISE. I JUST HAD A COUPLE REALLY EARLY PHENOS A COUPLE TIMES. 8/19 Defoliated some more stuff amd tried to improve airflow. Humidity is high and it was sprinkling earlier. I think we'll have showers. Not seeing much pm. MAYBE a little in the middle of that middle gmo but it could just be residue. I'll treat it again with potassium bicarbonate soon. If that doesn't work I'll switch up treatments. I've got citric acid amd some other stuff too. I almost ordered lost coast last night but decided I'd wait to try it out. The toasted toffy has SOME spots that look like septoria. It's the second furthest in flower and very indica leaning. It seems to be flowering vigorously so I don't want to fuck with it too much. I could use plant doctor on it and see what happens but I'm going to monitor for a few days after defoliating. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 4 AND SHOOK OFFCTHE PLANTS. HADNT RAINED MUCH. BAGS ARE STILL HEAVY. THE TEN WAS LIGHT AND THE EVENT HORIZON BESIDE IT SEEMED A LITTLE LGHT AS WELL. I THINK IT MIGHT BE ME COMPARING THEM TO OTHER PLANTS THAT ARE SATURATED. SEEING HOW THEY BOTH LOOKED THE BEST IVE EVER SEEN THEM I HELD OFF WATERING. ITS ALSO SPRINKL9NG AMD GOING TO RAIN TONIGHT. ILL REASSESS IN THE MORNING. PLANNED ON USING PLANT DOCTOR ON TOASTED TOFFY BUT DECIDED AGAINST IT PARTIALLY DUE TO THE RAIN. PARTIALLY BECAUSE I PUSSED OUT. I WANTED TO FEED. IVE NOTICED SOME FADE AND PLANTS PUSHING AND TRYING TO GET OVER THE FENXE INTO FLOWER. THE TOASTED TOFFY AND THE UNKNOWN IN THE 50 ATE THE FURTHEST ALONG AND DEVELOPING ROCK HARD BUDS. GMO HAS A MASSIVE STRETCH. THINGS CHANGE DAILY. I WANTED TO GET A GOOD DOSE OF NUTES IN SO AFTER THIS LITTLE BIT OF RAIN WHEN WE GET THAT NICE SUNSHINE MY PLANTS WILL TAKE OFF!! THEY'VE BEEN PROGRESSING FAST DESPITE THE SHITTY WEATHER. 8/20 It's still sprinkling. It SAYS WE got zero rain yesterday but that's just not true. Today is supposed to be light showers with like .02 in 9f rain. I mixed up some water to check the plants. I figured a few would he light. The event horizon on the back SEEMED a little light. So did the one invthe ten. I realized it was just comparing it to the bags that were saturated. Still I ended up giving the event horizon in the back a half gallon and split the other half with the one in the 10 that dries out super fast. It's crazy. The weather just abruptly changed one day and I go from watering twice a day to hardly at all! Everything but the sherb pie and the seedling in the 10gal are vigorously flowering. Upping the nutes was a smart move. The seemed to like it. I'm gonna check later and as soon as I can I'll hit that toasted toffy with plant doctor. That's tied for furthest along in flower. I've done a bunch of research and I think this is the right move. I'll keep this updated. After this small patch of shitty weather we are goingvto get some sun amd these girls will EXPLODE! WENT BACK OVER A FEW TIMES. LAST AT SIX. I DID SOME DEFOLIATION AND PRUNING OF PLANT INTERIORS. ITS ABOUT TIME TO TREAT THE TOASTED TOFFY AGAIN WITH PLANT DOCTOR. I CAN SEE SOME SEPTORIA SPOTS. I TREATED THE EVENT HORIZON THIS MORNING. IT GOT A FEW HOURS BEFORE A LITTPE RAIN WND THEN SUNNY AND 80. I USED BETWEEN A QUARTER AND HALF GALLON ON THE INE PLANT. I MAY NOT HAVE USED ENOUGH OF THE MIXED UP SOLUTION ONVTHE TOASTED TOFFY. IT HAD BEEN WORKING AWESOME AND NOW THAT ITS TIME TO REAPPLY I NOTICE A FEW LEAVES THAT LOOK INFECTED. OVER THE NEXT WEEK ILL BE MONITORING THE RESPONS FROM THE PLANT DOCTOR. I'M CONSIDERING APPLYING PLANT DOCTOR TO THE REST OF THE GARDEN. I THIBJ THE K BICARB HAS BEEN DOING GOOD KEEPING THE PM DOWN ON THE MIDDLE GMO. I HATE THAT I HAVE TO FIGHT DISEASES. IM NOT DOING CLONES AGAIN. AND IM GOING TO BE MUCH CLEANER. THE SHERB PIE LOOKS A LITTLE OVERWATERED AND HAS SOME YELLOW LEAVES BUT MANY HAVE TURNED PURPLE AND OTHER FALL COLORS. THE PLANTS ARE AGGRESSIVELY FLOWERING AND TEMPS ARE CHANGING. STILL IN EARLY FLOWER. IVE GOT A GOOD FEELING. IVE DEALT WITH MUCH WORSE AND CAME OUT GOOD.

11-29 She is growing great and seems to love the EM 1. Watered yesterday. Gave silica, cal/mag, drop of balance, yucca, recharge 1/2 tsp and 1 ounce or 29.5 ml of em1 per gallon. Her weird leaf is still weird, just bigger now. 😂 Showed hairs last week, starting to stretch 💪🤘 12-2 2k ml Silica 3mg, cal/mag 3ml, drops 1ml, yucca sprinkle 😂 Fun video

week intel: every thing is amazing girls are ripening , we can now cause more e.c stress than before because: 1-plants are very mature now and can handle stress 2- at this week its the only stress that is helpful for increasing plant resins stresses : E.C stress around 1.6 and 1.7 3 times a week feeding: i replaced B-52 with Bloom Base Nutrient i feed them 3 times this week with this order : day 1 : i feed them high with base nutrients(calcium & micros (half dose) + Bloom) about 850 ppm - 1.7 e.c to cause a little stress. day 3 : i feed them high dose of Top-Max + Bloom Base Nutrient around 877 ppm - 1.7 e.c to cause stress . day 5 : i feed them high dose of Feeding Booster around 850 ppm - 1.7 e.c to cause e.c stress again guide of the week : last weeks are time of ripening , and the only helpful stress is e.c stress at this moment

Sto aspettando anche per di raccogliere corbezzolo che sta asciugando da un flush con 5 litri circa di acqua 🚿 fredda (14ºC) e penso di farlo ancora tra qualche giorno e forse una settimana, che bei colori questa ragazza e un profumo molto particolare, sarà una di quelle che terrò stretto anche sono pochi grammi e cercherò di curare il più possibile prima di tirarla fuori dal barattolo! Ora intanto prepariamo il terreno per i prossimi 4 😀 ???

Week 19 of Vegetative Growth (Transition Week – Pre-Flower Move)** This week marks an important milestone for the Pineapple Upside Down Cake: she was finally moved into the tent where she’ll spend her entire flowering phase. She’s not flipping yet — this stage is all about controlled acclimation before the real show begins. Up until now, she was growing under a 5000K blue-leaning veg light at low wattage, which kept her compact and focused on structural development. Inside the flowering tent, the lighting is completely different: a full-spectrum 3500K panel, warmer, broader, and naturally more stimulating. A spectrum switch like this can easily stress a plant, especially in late veg, so the intensity was intentionally reduced to 300 PPFD to give her a soft landing. Temperature conditions also shifted: about 21°C during the day and 17°C at night, with the light set to 25% power. It’s a cool, stable environment — ideal for a plant adjusting to a brighter and wider spectrum. The second key topic of the week was training strategy. Her growth was accelerating fast, and the debate was wide open: Should she be topped? Should we go for a scrog? Should we prune more aggressively? In the end, the most coherent choice was a clean LST session. Her main branches — roughly ten apexes — were gently bent and opened to create a wider, flatter canopy. This approach keeps stress minimal while giving her a solid architecture to handle the upcoming stretch. Over the next few days, she’ll naturally stand back up, and once she does, her true structure will become clearer. At that moment, we’ll be able to judge whether she needs extra shaping: a light defoliation, selective pruning, or even a late top if it really makes sense. For now, the plan is simple and strategic: • monitor her adaptation to the new spectrum, • watch how she reacts to the LST, • keep the environment stable, • and only move to flowering once she shows full vigor again. Summary for Week 19 (Vegetative Growth): – Successful transition into the flowering tent – Spectrum shift managed smoothly with 300 PPFD – Cooler environment helping with acclimation – Clean LST performed on about ten apexes – No visible stress, good potential for a controlled stretch – Next step: wait for full adaptation before flipping See you next week for the follow-up — the pre-flower phase is getting close.