17.3.25: I've starred a Hulkberry auto. This was the first pack of seeds I bought! I realised it was mostly sativa, but now I'm ready to give it a go! Made my soil mix, which I will update next week. Planted the seed into an RQS seed starter plug. Mainly to keep the seed in place when watering. Join my journey and hang out 🌱✌️

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Que hay familia, ya estamos de nuevo, y es que estas crazy cookies estan engordando todavía, las seguimos manteniendo unas semanas más solo con agua , y a ver cómo avanzan estas semanas. Ph controlado 6,5 humedad por debajo del 40% , lo único que no estoy puedo eso controlar es la temperatura que nos subió a 28,5 grados, por lo demás, sobre ruedas. Para los próximos cultivos, cambiaremos la gama de nutrientes , más que nada por probar otras marcas. Un saludo y buenos humos fumetillas.

Hello everyone 🍀 The girls are in pre flowering stage! So far so good 🙏 Cheers 🍀 ❤️

Day40 and two days from flipping to flower, she has grown to the size of her pot and I don’t want her getting root bound. So this week I have been working on her to prepare her for the flip. At the start of the week I got rid of any undergrowth. Any branch that never made it to the canopy is now in a coco cube. Any leaf I didn’t want is now part of the mulch layer. And I have been threading through the screen net to get a nice even top. Above this top I’ve turn on the second light, still at 50% but raise to 45cm above top of canopy. And light hours was drop to 16 hrs on Fungus gnats are lowering as I’ve scraped back the top of the soil layer and top dressed. I’ve also added a fan under the canopy. Totaling three fans All that left to do for now is top dress with bloom nutes, flip the lights again and turn up my extractor. See you on the other side list get it 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽

Ive been vegging her for 5 weeks. And she has now been flowering for 4 weeks. and approximately 3-4 weeks left until harvest

Last week of growth, after repotting the plants are better. We will spend the girls in bloom in the coming days :-)

Ultima semana de engorde para la green gelato y finalizar con flawless finish y un lavado de raices 2046 sigue creciendo y engordando 😍😍

Week has been good besides me accidentally snapping my main cola off of my one plant while doing some additional LST. Had to stake a couple of them because of a storm and they didn't seem rooted that well apparently. But all and all decent.

Day 78 - pheno 1 was cut down, id normally hang dry the whole plant but decided to do it in branches instead. Second pheno has been left in darkness as i haven't had the time to cut. Pheno one is hung up and drying.. Room Humidity 60/60. As soon as she's dry enough I'll finish trimming her up. Then put them into jars. Might use boveda 60% packs but I'll see. Smells strong! Will post a harvest when both plants have been dried fully an in jars. Hope you enjoy the videos and pictures. Stay tuned.

All pictures were taken on day 43 She is definitely in 1st week of flowering and stretched a lot the last couple of days She grew a massive stem. It is many times thicker than the photoperiodic stems🙀 I gave her 600ml tap water with 1ml/l BioBloom, 1ml/l TopMax, 0.3ml/l BioGrow added end of the week

week 4.. amazing blooming. The rain has stopped. The Dry season has come! Maybe one or two rain storm, but nothing to wory...

Week 11 they are starting to frost up a little more but they are still not growing in size, the buds I mean. Do I keep them going till the hairs go brown atleast? They are starting to smell. Little more Any advice?? Shall I throw away or keep them going.. they are starting to look frostier but the bud sizes are still not getting any bigger

4.14.25 2nd week of veg! Started tie down method on 4.7.25 going good. Nice healthy growth! Going to start wrapping plant around perimeter of pot.

8/2 Fed two gallons this morning and took some hurried pictures. Did SLIGHT defoliation of dead leaves. Didn't have much time to inspect things. I'll check things out later this afternoon. Need to go in at night and see what critters are about. Woke very late so it was a very hurried morning. Rained last night like I expected. It's 68 at 9:30 and looks like rain. 8/3 Nice and sunny and 80 at noon. Didn't water as it rained last night nor did I get a chance to defoliate. After seeing a comment about mites I decided to break out the ol 100x scope. I took random samplings of leaves on different plants. I found ZERO mites. Just because I didn't find any doesn't mean they aren't there but it brings my anxiety down a little. While looking I did notice something is munching leaves. I wanted to use something to continue treatment for WPM and any random bugs but I may need to use captain jack's. I have lady bugs and don't want to kill them but I might just have too. I don't know if earwigs are a big problem or the holes are from pillars or hoppers or whatever else. Observing the weather and the 40 degree mornings and the wind tunnel I seem to be in, I don't see mites setting up shop or sticking around too long in these conditions. Either way if I missed something the IPM will get it. I bought general hydroponics cool bloom that I'm considering switching from tiger bloom. My tiger bloom is from last year and it seems to be crystalized a little in the bottom. We shall see. This is the last year of liquid nutes I hope. 8/4 Watered this morning and defoliated dead leaves. Looking on the inside of the plants I've noticed what looks like small leaves by bud sites dying or being chomped on. Not a single fucking aphid anywhere. I think those earwigs got a taste for those sweet lower bud sites and may be causing damage. It kinda helped as all they did was lollipop a couple lower branches in spots. Still I believe it will become a problem if left unchecked. Plan is to treat plants tonight with captain Jack's. I have a little more research to do but I believe that's the route I'll take. I noticed some pillar holes and other assorted pests so I think now's a good time to hit them with the Spinosid. Plants are looking good though. I can see cola's forming and hairs coming together to make small buds. What a great time. I have so much to do but I'm so busy with the other things going on it's hard to keep up. I'll update as I progress. Plans are fluid. 8/5 Topsoil was dry despite the rain we had so I watered and defoliated what needed and pruned some inner branches I missed yesterday. I don't like leaving exposed matter when it's wet. It's not supposed to rain until around 1pm. I'm getting frustrated. I can't find the earwigs anymore and "life" had kept me from being the best gardener I could be. Last year I woulda been out with a spray bottle every night looking for them. I need to visit the garden at night. I think I need to lower my pH too. Hopefully the apple cider vinegar spray I plan to use will help some. The water going in is good so I don't get how the pH is higher at the root zone. I've seen random damage from different pests. Tonight I'm putting petroleum jelly on the stalks and anywhere the bugs can climb up. I also plan on spraying spinosid tonight. I will update as I progress. The traps I made haven't caught a single bug. A little frustrated this morning but the garden looks gorgeous. 8/6 Rained last night. This wet weather sucks. Found a couple spots where bud shoots had been eaten as well as other tell tale signs. It's got to be those earwigs. I've researched my ass off and have none of the normal pests I usually would this time of year. Especially aphids. I have lady bugs but no way they controlled pests this well. More likely the wigs ran out of food and got a taste for nice cannabis shoots and leaves. I can't seem to make it happen at night so this morning I liberally sprayed all plants with a gallon of captain Jack's dead bug at 2tbsp a gallon as recommended. Spinosid works good and I've used it in the past with BT. Should take care of whatever. I sprayed around the cage too but I couldn't find anything. I read Spinosid is good at controlling those fucking earwigs too. Did you know earwigs are 20 million years old and the only species in their genus. I certainly didn't. I see leaf septoria all over the foliage around. By around I mean just driving or walking in the woods. It seems bad this year. At least it hasn't gotten to my garden yet. Garden is away from most other vegetation. I have ONE plant In that 30 gallon tote at the back outside my cage that I can tell has leaf septoria 💯. I don't know if I should cull it or try to fight it. I'll pick up a copper based fungicide and try first. I'm at that point where this plant was just extra and neglected so maybe it would be better of somewhere else. I may just isolate it. Hurried morning. No time for defoliation not pictures. I will update as I go. I will start apple cider vinegar spray probably tomorrow after I feed. I'm researching how to check my pH with an indicator liquid. Maybe I can get a better idea of the pH at my root zone. Those soil meters suck. Update I went for a hike just to check out the foliage in the area. I'm lucky. Japanese beetles have stripped a lot of vegetation around here but have luckily left my cannabis alone. I've killed like four total. I also noticed tons of fungal infections in trees (different area from my grow but within a mile). Hopefully I can come to decision about treating or culling that plant. 8/7 Looks like it's going to be a good day weather wise. Like I said my tiger bloom has what seems like small crystals that rattle when I shake the bottle. I know it's probably better to use one line of products but I switched to GH liquid cool bloom 0-10-10. It came highly recommended so we shall see. Plants seem to be doing well with the transition to flower. They look healthy despite the little ones outside the cage and the one with the fungal infection. Even that has nice tops it's just the bottom that looks fucked up. I think I'll bring it away from the others and attempt to treat it. Luckily it was just an experiment and a bag seed. After taking a hike I realized I'm quite lucky. Local foliage has been skeletonized by japanese beetles. This relentless rain has brought about fungal infections in trees, shrubs and even fruiting plants like blackberries. Things could definitely be much worse. I'm picking up a fungicide today to treat that plant. PM seems to be in check for now but I'll need to stay on top of it. Also need to try to get litmus paper or something to test soil pH. Meter is junk. I have indicator liquid though. I'll update as I progress. 8/8 Its been raining almost every night. Another challenge for the outdoor grower. I defoliated more leaves this morning. I noticed previous damage on bud sites that appears to be from earwigs. Also dead sugar leaves on new bud shoots down low and inside. Glad I got the Spinosid treatment in. At least whatever ate it will be dead. Need to still figure out what to do with that plant and whether it has leaf septoria or just a more advanced powdery mildew. I'm in town now and I'm planning to pick up a copper based fungicide just in case. I may isolate the one plant and treat everything and go from there. It's a large plant but seems to have lost most of its leaves. Not sure if switching the nutes was a good idea as I read that tiger bloom doesn't really expire and it's made to go with the rest of the nutes I'm using. Next week I need to stay on top of treatments and continuing to monitor for PM or other damage. Other than that plants look healthy and are transitioning to flower pretty well. Sunny and Tempe reached 90. RH is stupid high

Day 50 Cloudy Day 51 Showers Day 52 Sunny Day 53 Sunny Day 54 Sunny Day 55 Sunny Day 56 Sunny Week review: The plant had 2 waterings this past week. Day 53 in the morning and day 55 in the evening at sunset. The temperatures started to rise in the back half of the week. I also noticed that 2 leaves have a growth shooting out of the center vein of the leaf. I took a picture of it front and back. 😍

Stripped and lollipopped most of the plants this week and will finish the rest tomorrow. Ninja Smash and Strawberry Starburst #3 seem to have the biggest caps and may yield the most, but we will see. The Gaia green seems to be working great and I will give them their final top dress on the next watering in a couple days. Lights were turned up to 100% at the begging of this week and readjusted them to 18 inches above the canopy so I don't get any bleaching or burning as they stack and bulk. That's it for now.

7/22 Did some light deflation nothing crazy Had turn on the dehumidifier humidity been getting to high besides that everything seems cool

Tuesday - added 6ml of A+B , topped up 2 litres of water Thursday - changed Solutions They are looking so fat - loving life This week I’ve added 30ml A+B to Plant 1 and 20ml to Plant 2