Day 15 - 1.3L water Plant #3 is taller and with less ramifications than her sisters, i really dont know if its because of the soil, or just genetics.. (Since its my first grow, i wont do LST or anything, just whatch them grow and tucking leaves under) Day 18 - 1.5L water + 0.7 rootfast + 0.8 terra leaves (for BB, #1 and #3) and 0.5 rootfast + 0.8 NRG Growth-C (for #2) Just to campare diferent nutes 😁 The sunglasses in the video are really amazing, always protect your eyes 😎 (Method Seven Operator HPS+) Day 20 - 1.5L water

Week 12 (17-4 to 23-4) 17-4 Temperature: 23.1 degrees (lights on) 19,1 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 62% (highest) 50% (lowest) 18-4 Temperature: 22.5 degrees (lights on) 17.9 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 61% (highest) 52% (lowest) Opened the reservoir for a couple of minutes. ec 1.4 ph 5.7 19-4 Temperature: 22.5 degrees (lights on) 18.4 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 64% (highest) 54% (lowest) No pictures. 20-4 Temperature: 24.1 degrees (lights on) 19.1 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 65% (highest) 54% (lowest) Light increased from 50% to 60% strength. I also made a new 10L feed, and added it to the reservoir, there was still 2850 ml in the reservoir, so i can calculate how much they get per watering. Opened the reservoir for a couple of minutes. 21-4 Temperature: 24.4 degrees (lights on) 19.3 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 66% (highest) 54% (lowest) No pictures. 22-4 Temperature: 23.7 degrees (lights on) 19.7 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 67% (highest) 42% (lowest) Opened the reservoir for a couple of minutes. 23-4 Temperature: 23.6 degrees (lights on) 17.7 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 64% (highest) 50% (lowest)

Cut a few of the colas off to dry,alot of the tops are done and now just focusing on the bottom buds to ripen and turn amber :) Had a smoke today of the tallest cola,smokes great and haven't been this high in a long time so impressed with her !

empieza a ter un olor muyy fuerte a gelato 33 con toques a vainilla sin duda sera una planta brutal, resina muy gorda , esta empezando a joder un poco algun gusano por eso y no parece demasiado resistente a los homgos con esos cogollos tan gordos y prietos

Loved growing. Definitely one of the best buds i have smoked. Trimming was enjoyable.

I had some problems this season with dumping off because of too strong sunlight on the seedlings,that's one of the problems on germinating at the end of may however it's gonna be a beautiful outdoor season anyways

First grow wasn’t a complete disaster, but it could’ve been better. I relied completely on the living soil and nothing else. Was a mistake. She missed out on some key nutrients.

WHITE AMNESIA WEEK 4 FLOWERING COMING ON WELL.

Hello growmies 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾🌲🌲, 👋 Senesence in progress, but not yet ready for harvest, Harvest next week ! Continue flushing, 💪 Not too much work, just removed some leaves. 💧 Give water each 2/3 day 1.5 l Water + Flash Cleaner PH @6 RQS - Easy Bloom Booster Tabs 1 tabs/5 l RQS - Easy Grow Booster Tabs 1 tabs/5 l RQS - Easy Micronutrients Plus 1 tabs/5 l (1 watering each 10 days.) 💡Mars Hydro - FC 3000 50% 50 cm. Mars Hydro Fan kit Setting 7 Have a good week and see you next week 👋 Thanks community for follow, likes, comments, always a pleasure 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾❤️🌲 Mars Hydro - Smart FC3000 300W Samsung LM301B LED Grow Light💡💡 https://www.mars-hydro.com/fc-3000-samsung-lm301b-led-grow-light Mars Hydro - 6 Inch Inline Fan And Carbon Filter Combo With Thermostat Controller 💨💨 https://www.mars-hydro.com/6-inch-inline-duct-fan-and-carbon-filter-combo-with-thermostat-controller RQS - Titan F1🌲🌲 https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/f1-hybrid-cannabis-seeds/624-titan-f1.html

Day 15 Mon PH 5.8 EC 0.8 PPM 420 DLI 20h 10.2 PPFD 142 Water 23c Day 16 Tue PH 5.7 EC 1.5 PPM 770 DLI 20h 9.9 PPFD 137 Water 23c Day 17 Wed Add Ph down PH 6.8/5.8 EC 1.6 PPM 820 DLI 20h 18.4 PPFD 153 Water 22 Day 18 Thu Add water and Ph down PH 6.1/5.8 EC 1.7/1.6 PPM 840/820 DLI 20h 18.4 PPFD 153 Water 23c Day 19 Fri I do little LS PH 5.9 EC 1.7 PPM 840 DLI 20h 18.4 PPFD 153 Water 21 Day 20 Sat Add little water PH 5.9/ EC 1.7/ PPM 850/ DLI 20h 18.4 PPFD 153 Water 21 Day 21 Sun PH 5.7 EC 1.7 PPM 820 DLI 20h 18.4 PPFD 153 Water 2

Week 3 FIMing

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

No co k tomu dodat těším se na to přátelé.

Welcome Everyone, You been just Invited to Take a Seat at the : -Designers Club - Special Thanks to John for hopping through my Messages to Join The SSSC/DP Photo Contest So my part was to Create the "Designers Club". Its a New Created Fast Version Strain from a Cooperation Between SuperSativaSeedClub and DutchPassion. The Club will Carry 3 of these Phenos . Information we have About this Strain : Fast Version B – Indica-Dominant (90%) | 7 weeks flowering | Fruity, Peppery, Sweet The Project will be Supported from Narcos Nutriets to give the Strain the Perfect lifespan it could Deserve . Light used for The Contest Grow : Tenty Pro x4 200w in a space of 60x60 Homebox Ambiente Tent. Quickly Reminder , this Diarie will be a Time Eater . If you Enjoy what you see just show it with Some Thoughts and Thumbs in the Weeks . I will Appreciate that. Enough Talk from me , just Enjoy youre Seats and be a part of The Designers Club . Good Luck to Everybody and Keep up Growing !

Пришлось захарвить Purple Punch на 52 дне цветения (106 дней всего), хотя трихомы еще молочные, некоторые даже прозрачные. Можно было еще несколько дней подержать на чистой воде. Причина раннего харвеста злая и беспощадная - серая плесень. На предыдущей квартире, в гораздо хужих условиях, проведено 8 циклов без единого очага плесени. В моем текущем месте жительства бокс стоит возле северной стены, на которой постоянно появляется плесень, сделать с этим ничего нельзя без утепления стены. Поскольку я жилье арендую, видимо, плесень будет сопровождать каждый цикл выращивания, пока я здесь 😬 Следующий сорт будет OMG от Ripper Seeds, посмотрим, сможет ли он противостоять плесени и быть не хуже по эффекту, чем Пунш. Потому что Purple Punch - это нечто, мне нравится его убойный эффект 😋

3/11 to 3/17 Veg Days 22 to 28 Week 3 Transferred to Auto pot base and continue to top feed for another week before setting up and turning it on. Began node strength training by simply pressing down on the branches to encourage water way repairs into the branches since these are the main arms of my mainlines. They more than doubled in size in just 4 days. Feed this week was 3 cups of 6.3ph RO water once using 100ppm of Veg Mix (recipe Week 2) However, I also added 1ml/gal of CaliMagic (General Hydroponics 1-0-0). Then about 4 days later when I transferred to the auto pot, I added .5gal of plain RO water to top feed over the new soil. Feed plan next week will be to start using the reservoir and autopot base feed by the end of the week. I expect to use another .5 top feed prior to that tho.