Week 5 Veg Report: SCROG Netting, Massive Leafs & Precise Data Mastery! 🌱 Girls Growing Stronger Than Ever! 🌱 This week has been truly epic in the grow room—so much so that it’s time to bring in the SCROG net! With the canopy expanding and the younger ones still working to catch up, the SCROG net will help me achieve that perfect, even canopy. A well-placed SCROG not only ensures better light penetration but also gives the smaller plants a chance to spread out and thrive alongside their bigger sisters. Now, let’s dive deep into the SCROG method. The Screen of Green (SCROG) technique is a grower’s secret weapon for maximizing space, light efficiency, and yields. The concept is simple but powerful—train the plants to grow horizontally along the net, forcing them to expose multiple budding sites instead of just a single cola. This way, the canopy spreads evenly, improving light distribution and air circulation throughout the tent. As the plants grow, I’ll gently weave their branches through the screen, ensuring they fill every square inch of space. The end goal? A sea of buds all basking in equal light! 💪 Huge Leafs Everywhere! 🌿 One thing that’s really catching my eye this week is the size of the leaves—they’re HUGE! Honestly, they’re so big I couldn’t resist a little fun, so I made myself some fashion accessories: leaf earrings and a cap from the Super Sativa Seed Club Green Papaya! 😂 And, of course, I captured the moment. But seriously, large leaves at this stage are a great sign of healthy, robust plants. These “solar panels” are hard at work soaking up all the light, driving photosynthesis, and fueling growth. So, what does it mean when your plants are showing off big, luscious leaves? It’s a clear indication that they’re happy, healthy, and thriving in their environment—big leaves mean lots of energy being produced and stored for future bud growth. Exactly what we want! 💧 Precision Feeding with Aptus Nutrients 💧 This week, I took a deep dive into my Aptus nutrient lineup and shared a video explaining how each product affects the water’s pH and TDS. Using the AMP-3 Precision Meter, I’m getting real-time water readings and keeping everything dialed in perfectly. Let’s break it down: • pH: 5.83 • TDS in solution: 445 ppm • Water temperature: 25.2°C The Aptus products are incredible for balancing nutrients without throwing off the pH or TDS too much. I’m fine-tuning my feedings based on these readings to make sure the girls are getting exactly what they need. The precision I’m able to achieve with the AMP-3 is mind-blowing—I get immediate feedback on pH, temperature, and EC, allowing me to make real-time adjustments and ensure the perfect environment for nutrient uptake. 📊 Environmental Mastery Thanks to TrolMaster 📊 Speaking of control—let’s talk about the TrolMaster system! Between the DSH-2U Humidity Station and all the other sensors, I’ve created the perfect environment for my plants. Here’s where we’re at this week: • Temperature: 26.2°C • RH: 70.6% • CO2 levels: 775 ppm • VPD: 1.0 kPa • PPFD: 423 Thanks to TrolMaster, I can monitor and adjust these metrics in real time, and the best part? I can do it all through the TM+ Pro app, even while I’m lounging in my green papaya leaf hat! 😆 Whether I’m checking the CO2 levels, adjusting the lights, or fine-tuning the humidity, it’s all in my hands with just a tap of my phone. Talk about convenience! 🌱 P.S. – Inline Sensors: Heavy-Duty Precision 🌱 Now, let’s talk about the heavy-duty players in this game—the (PCT-2) Heavy Duty Inline EC/Temp Sensor and the (PPH-2) Heavy Duty Inline pH Sensor. These bad boys are connected directly to the AMP-3 Precision Meter, and they’ve been absolutely crucial in giving me the most accurate readings on my water and nutrient solution. The PCT-2 keeps me informed about the electrical conductivity and temperature of my solution, which is key for monitoring how well my plants are absorbing nutrients. Too high or too low, and we’re asking for trouble, but this sensor ensures I’m always in that perfect range. The PPH-2, on the other hand, is all about maintaining the perfect pH balance. A fluctuating pH can mean nutrient lockout or deficiencies, but thanks to this sensor, I get a constant read on my pH levels, so the plants are always in their sweet spot for optimal nutrient absorption. Together, these inline sensors allow me to run a super-tight ship—every drop of water and nutrient is dialed in to perfection, keeping the plants happy and healthy! Shout Outs! As always, huge thanks to TrolMaster and ThinkGrow LED for the amazing gear, to Aptus Holland for their top-notch nutrients and Pro-Mix for the best soil i have used so far. Big love to the seed banks, the amazing Grow Diaries community, and all my followers—you guys make this journey so much more exciting. Don’t forget to catch up on my social media, Instagram, and YouTube for real-time updates and exclusive content! Stay tuned for more—next week is going to be epic! DogDoctorOfficial Discount Codes so you can save big on your next check out 💚💚💚 Kannabia - DOGDOCTOR 30% off SeedsmanSeeds - DOGDOCTOR 10% off CannaKan- DOGDOCTOR 15% off terpyz.eu - DOCTOR 15% off The Neutralizer - PORKIT5-DOG 15% off Growers Love to you all 💚💚💚

Day 49 Jungle Jimmy 44 cm / Day 50 Pink Cookies 57 cm: Nothing to do today. Day 50 Jungle Jimmy 47 cm / Day 51 Pink Cookies 60 cm: Nothing to do today. Day 51 Jungle Jimmy 50 cm / Day 52 Pink Cookies 64 cm: Today I defoliated a bit and also tried to get an even canopy again. Flowers are showing up, as you can see 💚 Day 52 Jungle Jimmy 52 cm / Day 53 Pink Cookies 70 cm: Noting to do today. Day 53 Jungle Jimmy 52 cm / Day 54 Pink Cookies 73 cm: Noting to do today. It's day 14 after switching to 12/12. Day 54 Jungle Jimmy 55 cm / Day 55 Pink Cookies 76 cm: I defoliated and lollipopped a bit, today. Day 55 Jungle Jimmy 58 cm / Day 55 Pink Cookies 79 cm: Nothing to do today. -------------------------------------------------------------- 🙏 Thanks for visiting and follow for daily updates 🌱

Estupendo olor y pegote de resina. Muy recomendable!

Starting to Stretch, try to even eout the Canopy for the next 2-3 Day and then leave them allone light Defoliation was performed during day 6

This thing stinks! Dank smell everywhere in the garden. Happy days;) gave the last feed of terra bloom and now i will flush with 3liters of phd water at a time when the soil is dry. Many leaves started the transformation to red now. I think that will be even more visible after the first flushload

Been a hands off grow so far. Just feeding and defol when I can

I received art genetix seeds late this girls are about 2 mouths late from the best weather for germination in my area but i love to see what they got because in my country many people growing this breeders genetics and they are all happy. Lets see how beautiful their arts are

Sprouted November 20 Harvested February 23 95 Days Pheno #2 (Taller structure, smaller buds, more resin) Strong odour, almost "garlic" like pine smell.. Light feeder 1420g wet 420 Fastbuds Gorilla cookies Auto - pheno #1 106 days seed to harvest 1233g wet Lemon/gas terpene profile Thats a wrap.. Great job fastbuds this is definitely one for the books, easy to grow, a very rewarding plant that gets the old Dankeye thumbs up!

To update...

She is almost there as most trichomes are cloudy. One more week on nuts then one week flush and harvest time. Should be enjoyable harvest as the plant is quite small but pack so I will trim it on the plant 😁

2 Black cherry gelato clones from my clone guy. 1000w LED, 4G Autopots,, coco/perlite 65/35, GH 3-part+ flourolicious, calimagic, SI, chelated iron, and humic acid , RO water, AC pro Controller and T8, 5x5 GG Tent with extension Garage grow SoCal This week the girls had a hot week in the garage averaging 88°. This week the girls started to show up to the party; bulking up and putting on weight. It’s like they stopped at Wendy’s and got a frosty overnight. We’re running just under 1000ppm with no issues. I’m having reservoir funk issues so I’m switching to jacks RO this week. 1g a day. This weeks accomplishments: Split electric load (safety) This week: Switch nutes upgrade reservoir and lines next week. Long term issues It’s hot. Straight 90s this week. So the same - Cooling and VPD targets during heat waves Preventing pest and mold issues during high humidity conditions. I hope you all are having as much fun as I am. Best of luck gromies. Check out my Purple push pops grow. Just posted my outdoor light dep grow - side by side with my indoor grow- same clone batch. Purple push, pops and black cherry gelato inside and outside . Garage versus backyard . This should be a great comparison of indoor versus outdoor grows side by side

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Almost there ..... 4 weeks to go... a little strange because I switched my super loud noisy ass metal 4 inch inline fan for a plastic 4 inch VORTEX brand inline fan and its great for being stealth but I noticed I developed a rust spore problem which is an air circulation issue I have my ph perfect and nutes dialed in I even started cleaning my roots with cannazyme its a dead roots nutrient that enhances the breakdown of old roots and keeps things regular. Now I am just dealing with strange orange colored rusty leaves but the bud development is great and stickier and stinkier than ever .... 4 weeks left for these baby's to swell up and puff out looking forward to this dry chop and trim then the final cure.....

I really wonder how tall these ladies would be if I did not enforce any sort of training, would they even grow tall with only a slight breeze, trust when I say slight, it’s enough to extract air out the greenhouse, I’ve tested this out with smoke to better see the airflow in the greenhouse and itself ventilates. But it is not sufficient to cause any stress to help bulk up stems and brunches, we going to need that strength when flowering takes place, big buds get heavy. I think the more you grow the more you say this is your best cycle, I think it due to the lessons learnt while improving your knowledge. At this moment I can safely say I don’t not have a favourite plant in this cycle because of how unique each plant is adapting to greenhouse conditions, unlike outdoor where the plant is exposed to the elements which I say is a huge advantage because it get all the right minerals and nutrients from sun and rain. Luckily I have a tank full of rain water, to be fair enough to not keep these ladies hydrated.

I pulled a few top fan leaves to get to limit the stretch. All good and looking happy.

Thank you to RQS for creating and sending me this girl. She's fat, full of flavour and a pleasure to grow! Highly recommended even for a beginner. Thanks to all that follow, like and comment. Without you guys it'd be pretty boring so I appreciate all of your input! She was harvested on Day 58 and left to dry for at least a week. I then gave her a dry trim and thrown the buds in a jar for curing. I put a couple of boveda 62% humidity packs in there too, to keep the moisture level correct. I'll soon be switching to Integra boost packs as they seem to get a better review and are purposely made for cannabis. Because I have 4 seperate plants/strains in one tent, under one light, I've had to calculate these by dividing the conditions by 4 (4 plants in total sharing same conditions). This is the fairest and only way to work it out on average as a full tent. Happy growing! 🐺

I'm watering both of these plants 1 gallon ever 2 days. They're starting to build up!! As an overview You can see from the pictures that both are dealing with a little bit of heat stress. They are in a tent where all other plans love it hot and the temperatures are in the low eighties. if you look at the top leaves you can see canoeing my guess is it's heat. Other than that they're doing great #1 has shot up she stands nearly 12" tall now. this is the plant that we are letting grow completely natural no topping, No training. #2 on the other hand stands almost 8" tall and is much bushier, thicker, and squatter. You can see clearly in the video that we topped her and also are employing some low stress training to tie down her lower branches. both plants are beautiful and doing great! I expect #1 will be transplanted this week sometime #1 is 15" from the light #2 is 25" from it. Day 30: quickly measured because it looked like they grew a bit since watering Thursday. Definitely have too! #2 has easy gone up an inch. #1 is close to the limit of her pot I think.they both have asymmetrical growth 🤨 each have a branch on one side much taller than the other sides so I have begun rotating them daily to help light penetration. Day 31: Today I transplanted #1 she was in a 1Gal nursery pot for 31 day and starting to show some issues. I moved her into a 10x10 square nursery pot. Approximately 3gals. From here she will go into a 10Gal for flower in about 6 weeks!(I'm letting them get some size)Very faint yellowing of the leaves and needing to be watered daily. Attached is a video, showcasing her roots. Idk why, but everytime I transplant they look like the video. Everyone else seems to have an insane amount of roots.🤷‍♂️ #1s roots are some of the thickest I've seen tho, a regular tree! I transplanted using real growers recharge. That's about for today hope u had a great 4th!!🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸 Day 33: Just a quick update today. Check the video I say more in that than here. #2 has nutrient burn from the recharge. These are such easy plants!! They need and want nothing! Water them once every 48 hrs or so and that's it! Im obviously going to back off on the recharge tho for then next couple waterings.✌️💚🌱 Day 35: Finishing off the week with a transplant. We put #2 into a 10"x10" nursery pot. Works out to be 3 weeks in the small 3 weeks in the medium then she goes into a 12gal for flower. I used Azos and real growers recharge during transplant Soil: fox farm happy frog Light: ES300 LED 18/6 on/off 2x4 vivosun tent 6" oscillating fan, 8"tunnel fan 6" inline duct fan Watering this week: pH 6.5 1 watering of real growers recharge Maggie's 3-1 garden spray preventative

02/13/2020 Replacing with a back up female😊 I like to grow extras for this reason. Gonna train for a few more weeks until my Blue Dream-matic is harvested. So this is my clone mom for outdoor crop need 2 - 4 more clones for the garden. Then I can flower this girl out inside. Also I'm switching nutes with this one because she's been Fed only 3-1-2 organic granular and was planning on putting her in the garden this spring. 02/14/2020 She has hollow stem, they day it's a good trait to look for in a keeper/breeder plant,so you can see i cut some clones ,and tied down her branches

Mangoey hazey earthy so far, can tell the flowering will take its time Super strong genetics