In general, I liked growing this variety, the only thing is a lot of small leaves, it is not very convenient to cut, but the colas are very dense and weigh well, there are also many small stepsons, although I cleaned up during unnecessary time, powdery mildew appeared after the rain, which is difficult get rid of the large number of leaves on the plant, and it's very good)

She's unstoppable. Looks like we are about to be in pre flower. It's show time.

D64 - really big autos! If these phatten out over the next 3 weeks I expect it could be more than 5oz from one alone! Loads of bud sights on both! Really happy so far, plants are looking healthy.. living soil one is probably lacking some nuits as havnt added the stuff they recommend. ❤️💛💚

Was a good learning experience. I'm not going to get near the weight I expected from these, and though the bud turned out really tasty, I don't think I'll grow it again. I'm not sure I would recommend to a newbie. It was in some awesome living soil, but some deficiencies crept up in flower, and I wasn't impressed with the roots upon post mortem exam. On second look, even the photo on msnl's site shows some spots that looks like deficiencies. Definitely some grower errors here, but all of my ongoing grows faced the same challenges and these just seemed less adaptable. Anyhow, I've been graced with some clean meds for now, and I'm a happy growin hooman. 👽 I also probably won't do any more autoflowers moving forward. Just not my style. There are some great peeps doing outstanding work with autos though. Best to them and all! :) D82 - 12.12 - cut the second auto cheese yesterday. Let her go as long as I was comfortable. Think her run in with the gnats resulted in the the deficiencies. Awfully covered in trichs, so it should make for tasty smoke after dried, trimmed and cured.. Shall update

Week 14 (28-4 to 4-5) 28-4 Temps: 19.5 to 24.9 degrees Humidity: 53% to 59% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 1.6 29-4 Temps: 20.1 to 24.9 degrees Humidity: 55% to 61% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 0.4 30-4 Temps: 19.6 to 24.5 degrees Humidity: 54% to 60% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 1.6 1-5 Temps: 18.9 to 27.1 degrees Humidity: 52% to 62% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 0.4 The plants are a bit bushy again, so i did a last defoliation today. Leaves removed #1: 86gr #2: 90gr. 2-5 Temps: 20.8 to 26.1 degrees Humidity: 50% to 61% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 1.6 3-5 Temps: 18.5 to 23.4 degrees Humidity: 49% to 61% Light set from 65% to 70% strength. 4-5 Temps: 18.5 to 23.5 degrees Humidity: 50% to 58% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 0.4

As I was planning to harvest this week, I started flushing Mishka with PH 7.5 water and no nutrients as per guidelines.

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Esta semana regue con agua solamente. El transplante salio de maravilla, siguen creciendo fuertes. Tal vez alguna de estas plantas las siembre a la tierra, las demás quedarán en esas macetas.

Flushing chopping tomorrow

Perfect and good taste, good for sleeping and working on everything

And like in every grow things get to an end, and this one is no exception to that rule, did not yet end but is pretty dam close from it, gave her a last and only defoliation so far, this will help me in a few days wen i harvest her, and for now she looks way more beautiful to my eyes, man she did turn out outstanding , i mean, the looks, the smells , the over all everything this one is a champ. Love her Xmas tree kind a grow with a beautiful and modestly gigantic main cola, covered in beautiful and colorful trichomes, that glue to anything they touch living a complex and unique fragrance that follows you wherever one goes, she is a delight thats for sure. Not much to do besides observing this Queen Mama and wait for her to tell me she is ready to came down <3 <3 <3 As always thank you all for stoping by, for checking my journey , for the love support and for it all, i am blessed and humble with you all. Just a reminder , all i grow is medicine for myself, for me and for my best friend with is me nothing to sell, so don’t even ask. 

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So we got some very bushy plants. I topped them three times and trained them sideways and the plant focused it's energy on growing out sideways.

Week 5 already 😁 but bad luck this week, the whole week we had rain on my island and very cloudy weather, which is obviously bad for the plant 😢🌱 hopefully the weather change soon as its already summer and it never rains in june here so it really screwed a week of flowering, specially the week 4-5-6 as the plant gets fatter. The smell is amazing, this strain is incredible, cant wait to try some, im thinking about using this plant in an extraction 😁

Hello and welcome to week 7 for Enigma. Last week is now up to date. She was poisoned a few days ago and I'm trying to save her. Took off dead leaves today and fertigated with normal strength. Not super strength. Day 46: I've stabilised her but she's in rough shape. Day 48: Long video lots of detail. Day 49: A hard hard week. Almost killed her. Unsure where she goes from here but at least she doesnt take up any space!

Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.

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