Taking the top fan leaves so the sides can catch up to the main stem. Will repot next week.

Hello everyone week 2 of flower has passed for this Skywalker haze auto 💥 Mars hydro SP-6500 75% have a great day and wish you all happy growing 😎👨‍🌾🏻

Chopped tonight so not weighed them yet will do tomorrow if I can. Ended up with 290g for 5 plants But 5 same seeds and 5 different pheno's. Judging by the looks the heaviest weight is from the one I topped . Already weighed one plant got 28g dry weight. Got 4 more babies chopped tonight

Had some severe drooping on one side of the plant. It was kind of weird, but most likely nothing. I was under watering quite a bit in an attempt to make sure I didn’t flush out the benes and nutrients of the super soil. Ironically, I might have killed all the benes. Lol. Either way, they’re getting about 2.5 gal every other day now. Growing strong. Untied the LST ties to move them and rearrange the greenhouse. Going to leave them untied. I hate having to water around the ties 😭 Just did another spinosad treatment. Haven’t seen any more thrips since the first treatment 10 or so days ago. Saw a leaf hopper in there though 😡

Its going great.

Topped once, turned off IR @ nights, slowed vertical growth back down, and took off both of the very lowest internodes on each plant. Eisenia fetida Stratiolaelaps scimitus Armadillidium vulgare Red wigglers (Eisenia fetida) are highly beneficial. They are considered an ideal choice for "no-till" or container-based organic growing because they live in the upper layers of soil, feeding on organic mulch rather than the plant's root system. Red wigglers accelerate the breakdown of organic amendments and produce high-quality, nutrient-dense worm castings directly in the root zone. Clover is another exceptional component of an organic rhizosphere, offering a sustainable, self-sustaining alternative to synthetic nitrogen fertilizers produced via the energy-intensive Haber-Bosch process. By forming a symbiotic relationship with Rhizobia bacteria, clover converts atmospheric nitrogen N2 into ammonium NH4, providing a steady, slow-release nutrient source that enhances soil health and reduces environmental impacts. Red clover offers superior nitrogen fixation and biomass production compared to white or yellow clover, making it the premier choice for maximum soil vitality, particularly for improving soil structure and providing a high-volume nitrogen credit for subsequent crops. If it is fully functional and efficient soil, the rhizophagy cycle is superior long-term than any synthetic delivery when it comes to preventing deficiencies, not because it's "better," per se. The medium will require a very high CEC to make it to harvest without re-fertilization. The rhizosphere acts as a dynamic, interactive exchange where plants and soil microbes trade resources based on immediate needs. When a plant lacks a specific nutrient, it changes its physiology and releases specialized chemical cocktails—root exudates—into the surrounding soil. These exudates, which include sugars, amino acids, and organic acids, serve as a "shopping list" to attract specific microorganisms, which in turn return higher levels of desired nutrients. There is nothing in comparison when using synthetic delivery, which can cause plants to stop producing exudates, effectively "starving" the beneficial soil life, over time turning the soil barren and void of microbial life. Responsible use, applying the right amount at the right time, can minimize these negative effects. Relying solely on synthetic fertilizers without replenishing organic matter is what typically leads to exhausted soil. The use of synthetic fertilizers can utilize the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) of the soil, but without a robust rhizosphere and active microorganisms, the efficiency of this process is significantly reduced. This makes synthetic growing more difficult to prevent deficiencies overall compared to an efficient organic living soil with a robust rhizophagy cycle, as there is no "one size, fits all" when it comes to different nutrient profiles of strains/genetics, making it trickier to "guess" and prevent creeping deficiencies. CEC does not contribute towards EC. Add more CEC using biochar, problem solved. If you keep pH between 6.3 and 6.7, hydrogen is exudated to cycle the medium's CEC for its needs. Keeping the pH between 6.3 and 6.7 creates an environment where plants release H+ to displace positively charged nutrients (like Ca2+, Mg2+, K+ held on soil particles or within artificial media this cycle through nutrients via the medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) Microorganisms generate a stable potential of approximately 0.5 V EC. The rhizosphere creates its own food, similarly to chelation, using 1000's of varying combinations to create its own food. Start to finish, just add water. Eventually, more materials will need to be added at the beginning of each new grow, but very attainable to go from seed to harvest without ever fertilizing. ATP is important when it comes to biomass accumulation. Cellular root respiration and cellular respiration are essentially the same biological process, the breakdown of glucose to create usable energy (ATP) in the presence of oxygen, just taking place in different parts of the plant. Synthetic (salt-based) grows have significantly lower levels of total rhizosphere respiration, often referred to as root-zone activity, compared to organic living soil grows. While the plant roots themselves may respire in both systems, the surrounding soil ecosystem in a living soil setup is vastly more active, teeming with bacteria, fungi, and beneficial microorganisms. 2 pools of ATP, it won't double in growth buuuut, but improving root respiration by ensuring high oxygen in the soil is crucial. Good aeration ensures roots can fully utilize glucose to generate the ATP necessary for nutrient uptake, leading to healthier and more productive plants, even if growth isn't exactly doubled. The ATP created using root respiration is dedicated to rootzone growth; the ATP created using regular cellular respiration in a synthetic system would have to dedicate a lot of ATP to the roots when there is little or no root respiration. It's true that there is less of an initial ATP cost in breakdown when nutrients are already in their final form (synthetic), but you lose a solid chunk of ATP when the entire plant is reliant on cellular respiration alone; a large portion of ATP is dedicated to root zones for "forced" nutrient uptake rather than traded. Making it overall less efficient, even if the initial cost of breakdown is higher. Not sure if I butchered that but one can hope It makes sense. Oxygen is of critical importance when growing in living soil compared to synthetic soil because it supports the metabolic needs of the microbial, fungal, and insect ecosystem, rather than just the root respiration required by the plant itself. While synthetic grows can survive in lower-oxygen environments with precise mineral feeding, living soil systems rely on aerobic microbes to decompose organic matter (microbial mineralization) to create plant-available nutrients, which is an oxygen-intensive process. While a specific fair percentage is difficult to guess, my experience points to a massive, compound difference between the two methods and the amount of oxygen required. All the ATP spared is used on more biomass, not only that, but the extra root respiration can achieve a much higher CO2 compensation point naturally than you could with synthetic and atmospheric CO2 alone. As a plant grows faster and increases in size, its demand for nutrients to support that growth increases, requiring a higher rate of nutrient uptake. As plants enter phases of rapid vegetative/floral growth, their metabolic demand for nutrients increases exponentially. Without a robust buffer zone—whether in the soil (cation exchange capacity) or in a hydroponic reservoir—deficiencies will occur rapidly because the instantaneous demand for specific nutrients can quickly exceed the rate of supply. A growing body of evidence suggests that organic living soil provides superior long-term soil health and environmental benefits compared to synthetic fertilizers, which are often criticized for promoting a cycle of dependency and degradation. While synthetic fertilizers offer short-term convenience and high yields, they often come at the expense of long-term soil health, sustainability, and increased corporate control over growers/ farmers. Organic living soil, while slower and requiring more care to establish, creates a sustainable, resilient, and, ultimately, more fertile environment. We don't really grow; we facilitate energy conversions, and energy is just numbers. Because the universe works the same way today as it did yesterday, there is a single, fundamental mathematical quantity that remains constant. We call this quantity energy. You cannot put "energy" under a microscope. You observe matter and forces (like heat, motion, or light), but energy is just a scalar number calculated to help predict how these things will change and interact. When an object falls, or when a battery powers your phone, matter shifts and changes form. Through it all, the universe ensures the "total score" of the numbers remains exactly the same. Once all water is removed, approximately 95% to 97% of a plant’s dry matter consists of carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen. These three elements form the structural backbone of all plants. NPK & all the rest 3-5%. Indigenous Amazonians created, or at least significantly enhanced, the fertile, dark soil known as Terra Preta de Índio (Portuguese for "Indian Black Earth") by incorporating biochar and other organic materials into the soil. This anthropogenic (human-made) soil technique, which dates back roughly 2,500 to 8,000 years, allowed ancient civilizations to flourish in regions with naturally poor, acidic, and nutrient-poor tropical soils.

Not Even The Rain Can Stop Us Fron Being At Spannabis

Spannabis 2025

Its a bit rainy today so she is in the safehouse.. dont worry, its nice and cosy..with a lil breeze😎👍 its their favourite spot to come together and catch up .. so they dont mind 👊 So as u can see, my darlin clementine is finally growing up and becoming an Orange! she is showing some pistils too think/hope she is gonna be a sweet Citrus-Cannabis- Bonsai!😎👌 happy growing for all✊

I did some tricome checks today and she is almost ready for harvest. Looks like 3 days maximum before I harvest her. She is stinking up the neighborhood and is sticky AF wow. Was a really easy grow. Did not expect her to go full on flower on me but I had to make the best of it. Bud development is good but the size that I was craving is about at 65%. Can't wait to test this!

She's looking very strong and healthy,she's gonna be a 🔝 lady for sure,let's keep on working to make things happen,peace and love ✌️🌱💚❤️💛

Eccoci qui... Per problemi di lavoro ho tardato un pò la pubblicazione delle foto, la piccola è molto vigorosa ed emana un forte odore.. Già si può vedere la resina che si inizia a formare sulle cime in alto... Sono estremamente soddisfatto della sua crescita finora e sono sicuro che mi riserva sorprese, odore veramente intenso. Grande genetica, sta iniziando a sfociare sul viola il colore delle foglie e questo mi rende molto molto più contento. Grazie a tutti per il supporto, NON VEDO L'ORA DI RACCOGLIERLA 🔥🌲❤️

Day 63: This should be the last week in veg. It might be a partial week...I'll make the call in a few days. I'm excited to see these babes flower!!! Day 64: Last night I saw what appeared to be signs of overwatering, so I turned off the humidifier and the temp increased immediately and today, they look just fine. I also raised the 150W LED on that side of the tent just a bit to reduce the intensity. This will be the last week for veg. I flipped the other tent, but these babes need just a little longer before flipping. Day 65: They looked pretty thirsty today, so I fed 1 gal of late veg nutes per plant. The soil was very dry according to my meter, so if I overwatered last time, they had plenty of dryness today. Day 67: I came home to near wilting plants! It had been 52 hours since last feeding and I've never seen them this thirsty during this grow. I watered 1 gal/plant again and GZ is showing the same signs of over watering again. The leaf color is fine with zero nutrient issues, so I suspect there may be a root problem. I don't know what else it could be? The photos are about 4 hours after watering. Day 68: The moisture meter showed bone dry again, so I watered a half gallon of water/cal-mag. I also decided to turn off the extra 150W LED sitting above her and just let the main LED do the work for now. Day 69: She was dry again today, so I watered a half gallon of late veg nutes and she's appearing to be recovering just fine. I think the heat in the tent might have been causing some issues as well, so good thing I turned off that extra light for now. Day 70: Last day of VEG!!!

Drying

Это отдельная история, вот вам и Фаст Бадс, раз на раз не приходится! Складывается такое ощущение что это фотик, все растет и растет, а зацветать и не думает. Тоже слегка подстриг низа:This is a separate story, here you are and Fast Bads, just do not have to! There is a feeling that this is a fotik, everything grows and grows, and does not think of blooming. He also cut the bottom slightly.

Harvest 33 Days After Flower Switch ( Flower Week 4-5 ) -Loading-

Today, august 4, i flush the lemons because i see some ambar trichomes but now i think that it wasn't enough because the others doesn't look cloudy, so i keep feeding them. The pictures are from the lemons and was taken with a wifi digital microscope that i bought in Amazon. August 8, second time with potasic soap (i know that i have to clean/wash the buds, if you have any suggestion, do it please 😊) August 9 flushing all the plants, except the tallest one (one of the syrups). How you can see on the video, the TGL 60 is over she. August 10 little defoliation.

8/1 This wad the most fucked up morning ever. Didn't get much time with the girls. I was able to take a few pics when I got back amd a video this morning. Pillars are still around. I killed a couple but I probably should spray BT. I think we got rain last night. Bags are heavy. I defoliated a little bit more on the interior and found some small yellow leaves. Event horizon is still on point to flower first. I NEED to lst and add supports for flower bit I've got a lot of other things going on too. I'm going to TRY to spray BT tonight if weather permits and I should have the supports up this weekend. At least that's what I'm hoping. 8/2 Quickly watered as I had to fix a flat tire to get my wife to the doctor. Gave most a gallon but closer to 3/4 on one event horizon and the sherb pie. Half g for the 10 and I gave the 5 and the 50 a little water. I didn't give the 50 much. That holds water far longer. I'm glad I got it done. It was 90°+ and sunny all day. Earlier everything looked great. I think I'm gonna go check them and maybe add a few pictures. WENT OVER AND FOUND THE EVENT HORIZON I GAVE A LUTTLE LESS WATER TO, IN THE BACK COMPLETELY DEOOPED OVER AND DRY. I QUICKLY WATERED A GALLON. I CHECKED THE OTHER PLANTS AND SAW A COUPLE THAT "MIGHT'VE STARTED DROOPING BUT WERE LIGHT SO I GAVE ALL THE GMO'S HALF A GALLON. I WATERED THE CONTAINER PLANTS AND THE ONE IN THE 50. BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY. THEY WERE SUPER LIGHT. SOME ARE SHOWING SOME HEAT STRESS BUT I DONT BLAME THEM WHEN ITS PUSHING 100° OUT. I HOPE THIS PLANT WILL PICK UP BUT ILL HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL MORNING TO SEE. I GOTTA GO EAT DINNER AND IT WAS IN ROUGH SHAPE. CANT BELIEVE THIS. ITS THE FURYHEST IN FLOWER TOO. INTERNET TOO SLOW TO UPLOAD 8/3 This morning it was "maineing" out. Basically like raining but more of an alternating mist. The event horizon that looked DEAD is completely recovered! I'm so stoked. I've had a really rough few days but at least I've still got my girls. After this little bit of rain I'll do the supports and a spray of BT for the pillars. I'm noticing more damage and I don't want them arpund when they can burrow into buds. WENT BACK AT LIKE FIVE. THE 5 GAL WAS DROOPING AND THE 10 WAS DRY AF. OTHERS WERE ALSO LIGHT. I USED 5 GALLONS ON THE GARDEN AS SOME STILL "LOOKED GOOD" BUT WERE DUSTY AND DRY. I ONLY GAVE THE GMO IN THE 30 A HALF GALLON. DIDNT WATER THE ECENT HORIZON IN THE BACK AND THE GMO IN THE FRONT BY THE DOOR ASXTHE LOOKED GOOD AND STILL HAD SOME WEIGHT TO THEM. THIS WAS ANOTHER DAY IN THE 90s THAT WAS SUPPOSED TO HAVE RAINED. LUCKILY IVE GOT THAT INTUITION AND I CAN CHECK. CAMS HELP WITH THAT BUT ITS BEST TO CHECK A FEW TIMES A DAY IN WEATHER LIKE THIS. FAR TO HOT TO SPRAY ANYTHING. 8/4 Chose not to water as we were supposed to get an inch of rain, then a half in and now it says .1in. I'm going to go over and check on the garden and see what they look like. I took pictures but I'll have to wait to upload them. WENT BACK OVER IN THE AFTERNOON AROUND 2ISH. GMO IN THE FRONT WAS DROOPY. WATERED THAT A GALLON AND IT WAS UP BY THE TIME I LEFT. THE GMO ON THE END (MY CANARY) WAS SUPER LIGHT SO SHE GOT A GALLON. THE EVENT HORIZON I DIDNT WATER YESTERDAY GOT ABOUT 3/4 OF A GALLON AND I WATERED THE ONE IN THE 10 1/2 GALLON. SHOWERS ARE IN THE FORECAST AND EVERYTHING ELSE LOOKED PRETTY GOOD AND WASNT DEAD LIGHT. AS OF 3 EVERYTHING IS GOOD. I IMAGINE ILL PROBABLY NEED TO WATER SOMETHING TOMORROW. IT SUCKS HAVING TO DO THIS SEPERATELY BUT SOMETIMES THATS HOW IT GOES. I DONT EXPECT THESE 90 TEMPS WILL CONTINUE. ALSO NOTICING SOME FADING AS THEY TURN TO FLOWER. DEF NEED NUTES. AND ONCE THE TEMPS GO DOWN I NEED TO SPRAY EITHER BT OR SPINOSID. 8/5 It Rained last night so I didn't need to water. Everything was nice and heavy. Beautiful day today. Hopfully I can do an app of bt tonight. Weather man needs to get things right. It says we got .005in last night but I heard it and it was way more than that. This is a tiny town. WENT BACK OVER AND FED. EVERYTHING GOT 1.75 PINTS. THE 10 GOT HALF THAT. THE FIVE A LITTLE LESS. I DEFINATELY NEED TO SPRAY FOR PILLARS. I ALSO HAVE A BIT OF DEFOLIATING ON A COUPLE PLANTS THAT I NEED TO DO. USUALLY I'VE LOST TONS OF LEAVES BY NOW. I JUST NEED TO IMPROVE AIRFLOW. THE TRELLIS WILL HELP WITH THAT PLUS SUPPORT. I THINK I MAY BE ABLE TO SPRAY PISSIBLY TONIGHT (DEPENDING ON WEATHER) AND SUPPORTS AND DEFOLIATION THE NEXT FEW DAYS.

SUNDAY 5/5: Rearranged the gardens..have 17 plants in the 4 x 5 now...yowsa! MONDAY: Plucked some dead leaves and did a trichrome check on her. She's getting close now! Prolly about 80% cloudy and 5% amber! I'll start flushing her tomorrow or the next day if she's not dried out yet. TUESDAY: I observed some white spots on a few leaves here and there, so I sprayed her today with Trifecta Crop Cure, a concoction of a bunch of natural plant oils. I already decreased the humidity in the room to 45% with my new 70L dehumidifier, so I think she'll be fine. I'll spray her again tomorrow and the next day, then I'll have to hope that did the trick, because she is already in the harvest window. WEDNESDAY: I flushed her today with about 4 gallons of ph'd spring water and bembe. It was her last dose of any nutes...flushing with only spring water from here on out. THURSDAY: Took a couple of photos and tried installing my new Solacure FlowerPower UVB light, but it was dead on arrival.😢..back to the 15.0 reptile UVB lights for now I guess...