48 hrs. of dark are up and its time to chop. pots have dried from the last flush. These did not stretch as much as I would have liked I will have to adjust my light better next time and there was a lot of lower development near the media, hence not enough air flow. when I flushed the pots the water level went up to the lower growth on the Think different and the bottom was wet and rotted the bottom half. I did a mild lollypop on them I'm early flower it just was not enough, LESSON LEARNED. Chopped on 2/8/20 whole plant drying low and slow 54% RH 68F for 10-14 days then will trim and jar. 981 grams wet with the lumber. lets see how they dry. I got a rosin press coming today I will squeeze all the trim and larffy buds into dabs yummy! All in all I recommend these genetics I will try the think different again I'm sure I just got a recessive dwarf gene. I have seen other grows of this same strain same breeder that are huge and stacked. thanks again to Fast Buds 420 and Green Buzz Nutrients for suppling the goods for the grow. Stay tuned for the harvest pics and vids along with the rosin squish. Be cool to one another we could really use it these days.👏 please fell free to comment on the grow as this is my first true auto flower grow. If any one out there is experienced with rosin pressing and you have any tips for beginner's let me know I will incorporate them in the next videos. thanks

Update: what a week full of activity and positive growth. The Amnesia is a big beast of a lady now. She is nearly 2.5ft across her canopy and growing. I have had a shuffle round in the grow space and she is now under the sp250 with her soil friends. The supercropped knuckles are nice and chunky to support the spiked colas I plan on her having. She has flattened out nicely too. I expect her to get even wider by the flip time and with so many growing tips she should be a good producer. Sweet Afghani Delicious has thankfully now started her real recovery from the root rot after a week in new feed. She has some good potential for a decent finish by the way shebhas bounced back over the last 2 days with new growth and now starting to fill up wirh chlorophyll again. Red Hot Cookie is also on the road to recovery with way more colour and actual vertical growth starting too. Her 5th node looked done for so i left it to fall off if it wanted and concentrated on the 4th nodes but she had other ideas and has now began growing the 5th again. Overall inam happy to see a recovery in them as i thought I was going to lose the nft girls from all the damage. Now at 100% power on the sp3000 with an rh of 67% and room temps at approx 24.5°c. With another weeks growth I am hoping to be close to flipping them all as the Amnesia is in danger of total room domination!!. Be safe and well. GGD

This past week I've been removing a couple of leaves here and there from each of the plants to expose some of the buds to more light, never more than two or three at a time. I upped the amount of Tiger Bloom once again and in another week or so I'm going to add my other LED light to the tent so I can really take these girls to the limit and get a nice yield. The smell as well as the trichome production continues to get stronger.

So this week isnt over yet, i just wanted to say that im pretty certain she is starting to show her sex! I dont have any pictures yet as they are really really really tiny but i think this will be my last week that i give her veg nutes and next feeding will be with tiger bloom and probably still likely big bloom too. I cant wait to show you guys the progress is been so exciting! The branch i accidentally almost took off because i pressed down too hard is doing well it isnt fully healed yet but we have time so im not too worried and none of the leaves are wilting or looking like they are dying so i think and hope it will hold out and be healthy and strong by flowering time so it can hold its weight! P.S. it wouldnt let me post without a picture so heres the first frame for this weeks time lapse before its done for the week! Alright guys week 4 has officially ended and im putting the edited time lapse up for you all to see, week 4 was phenomenal and the growth alone has been starting to get crazy big i cant believe it! So i was 100% correct about earlier in the week and she is currently showing signs of pistils starting to form on some branches so this will mark my last week giving her veg nutes and next feeding cycle will be with some flowering nutes. I decided to defoliate her today to try and get rid of any ugly leaves as well as fan leaves that werent needed. it really spaced out the plant some more for good lighting to penetrate it all hopefully. The branch that i accidentally injured is doing good still healing up i think but i do believe that in time it will be 100% of what i can be given the circumstances. im just happy and it hasnt seemed to stunt the growth of that branch at all either its getting really big. Thanks for all the love and support guys i cant wait to get her to harvest and to be able to say im smoking my own weed after dry and cure! I gave her some Cal-Mag too to help with possible deficiencies later on in the flower cycle but not a ton because i dont want to over do it!

Great week! Happy with the pistil development. The New and Chemdawg are my longest flowering plant of the four, yet interestingly they’re fastest out of the gate. Bubba’s Gift and Black Dog are taking their time but tight little buds are starting to show and they’re all stretching (The New the most so far). I also added an old spare blurple light, positioned right above Bubba so she’s gets plenty of LED

Im happy with this week results, Im only using "Veg" light from my LED, Im thinking using both lights (Veg/Blom) to see if there is any variation in growth. 2 nodes more for start topping and LST

Hello growers hope you all are having a great day wherever you are and thank you for taking the time to be a part of this community. Now for this girl I have not changed anything but the watering schedule it is now Monday Wednesday and Friday as I feel like the reason I am getting yellow leaves is from overwatering first time doing organic and a super soil so am learning a bit I usually go with synthetic but I am interested in this for a variety of reasons but anyway I think that will fix my issues stay tuned to find out! O and ps I did have another candy auto but she unfortunately decapitated herself I have never seen it I went in one morning to check and her leaves where completely of the stalk not quite sure what happened but she is gone o7.

Week 8 Looking absolutely huge😂 They’re so tall and wide . Lots of healthy green leaves and strong roots. I was worrying a lot about sex issues as when I did my research I found out they’re quite common to hermaphrodite. Was really worrying but all calyx’s have female signs (so far🙏🏻) so pray for me brothers&sisters.

I give them max 2 weeks

Im super excited to grow this strain. It just looks soo beautiful from the pics ive seen. I cant wait for her to grow up!

first pic was april 25 second the 26 and about two day in between or so on the others up until today the may the 3rd last day of week 7 now i can say things are starting to look good 😌 thru picture of what it looks like under the bed in case anyone was curious.. one has slight light burn finally got passed me and didn’t give in aha till today aha (edit ) i forgot to mention pots are about 15 in and yea i measured from the floor every time old habits aha

Bienvenidos cultivadores de marihuana clandestinos y también a los que tienen la fortuna de no serlo!🖐️👨‍🌾👍 Este es un diario semanal de técnicas de cultivo y Bio preparados orgánicos caseros, los cuales llevo experimentando dos años en cultivos de marihuana interior. Esta semana dos en uno: 1) ELABORACIÓN DE AUXINAS EN POLVO EXTRAIDAS DE ALUBIAS NEGRAS GERMINADAS. La primera vez que hice este preparado y lo publiqué en GD fue en Octubre de 2019, lo volví a hacer en Junio de 2020 y llevo dos años usándolo, me ha costado el precio de 2kg de alubias negras. INGREDIENTES: - 1kg de alubias o frijoles negros, porque son las semillas que más concentración de auxinas contienen, comparándolas por ejemplo, con lentejas o cualquier otro tipo de leguminosas, también se puede usar granos de maíz. Preferentemente, se deben usar semillas de alubias nuevas y cultivadas cerca de tu zona. - Agua pura. PROCEDIMIENTO: - Se cubren las alubias con agua y se dejan a remojo durante una noche. - Al día siguiente se separa el agua. Esta agua la puedes usar para riegos, contienen varios minerales. - Se mantiene la humedad en el recipiente de las alubias por unos días, hasta que germinen. Se pueden cubrir con un paño húmedo y compensar la perdida de humedad rociando agua. Se debe observar que la mayoría de las semillas hayan germinado. - Cuando las alubias, en su mayoría estén germinadas, se añade unos dos litros agua pura y se bate todo. - Ahora filtramos con malla y escurrimos los restos sólidos. (Reservamos esta materia para un segundo lavado) - Dejamos reposar el líquido durante dos días, hasta que se vea acumulación de materia en el fondo. - Retirar la mayor cantidad posible de agua clara. - Dejar al sol cubierto con una malla, hasta la completa deshidratación del producto. - Moler y guardar en un sitio seco y oscuro, en estas condiciones puede ser efectivo durante años. -- A los residuos sólidos recuperados del primer filtrado, les añado agua, los bato y los filtro con doble malla, lo embotello y guardo en el frigorífico (no más de 15 días, pues fermenta), lo uso para mezclas de riego. Los residuos finales se aprovechan, para aquellos que tengan tierra en exterior o hagan compost. QUE SON LAS AUXINAS Y USOS: - Las auxinas son un grupo de hormonas vegetales naturales, que regulan varios aspectos del desarrollo y crecimiento de las plantas, en la marihuana sobre todo en el periodo de crecimiento vegetativo y en el comienzo de la floración, después no hacen falta. - Uno de los aspecto más característicos es el efecto que causan en el desarrollo del crecimiento radicular, promoviendo sobre todo la formación de raíces secundarias y adventicias gracias a la estimulación celular que provocan las hormonas. - Otro aspecto de las auxinas es que distribuye su energía principalmente al ápice primario, reprimiendo el desarrollo de las ramas laterales, lo que provoca dominancia apical, pero esto es en el caso de plantas de marihuana sin corte apical y donde se quiere conseguir un cogollo principal monstruoso, su uso puede dar muy buenos resultados en cultivos SOG... pero ¿Qué pasa si hacemos un corte apical para promover el crecimiento de ramas laterales y que por ende, de buenos cogollos en cada una de ellas? Cuando se hace un corte apical al ápice principal las hormonas se reorganizan por la planta, ahora para mandar energía a todas las ramas y sus ápices, promoviendo el crecimiento!.. es un buen momento, después de un corte apical, aplicar auxinas para potenciar el proceso. - Finalmente os dejo un gráfico de la actuación de las auxinas en las diferentes etapas de un cultivo, también se ve la importante relación con otras hormonas (Citoquininas o Ácido Giberélico) y los nutrientes claves que no deben faltar para finalizar todo el proceso hormonal. Las Citoquininas y el ácido Giberélico naturales se encuentra en el agua de coco, y es muy interesante conocer como actúan, en la quinta semana de este diario hablo sobre las propiedades del agua de coco. Bien, una vez dicho lo anterior, yo uso las auxinas en polvo de las siguientes formas. - Como mezcla del sustrato donde germino las semillas y donde mantengo las plántulas hasta el trasplante a la maceta definitiva, para potenciar el enraizamiento. - Por la misma razón, lo espolvoreo sobre el cepellón de raíces de la plántula, en el momento del trasplante a la maceta final. - Lo uso como enraizante de esquejes, impregnando el tallo de polvo antes de enterrarlo. - 10 días después de realizar el producto, todavía tenía en la nevera un litro de auxinas líquidas, provenientes del segundo lavado de los restos de las alubias molidas... y entonces pensé que sería buena idea incorporarlo a un fermentado, y de aquí vienen esta segunda parte... 2) LACTO FERMENTO DE AUXINAS ENRIQUECIDO CON NUTRIENTES Y MINERALES En esta ocasión, para la fermentación anaeróbica, elegí hacerlo con suero de leche como base de microorganismos (Ácido láctico, Bacterias Acidolácticas BAL y Lactobacillus) que harán el trabajo de solubilizar los nutrientes y quelatar los minerales, es un preparado muy eficiente para riegos y aplicaciones foliares, en este caso lo hice enriquecido, mezclando diversos materiales orgánicos con otros minerales. Puedes ver la lista arriba. Sobre esto tengo que decir que después de dos años haciendo diferentes lacto fermentos, ahora los hago más específicos, sin mezclar tantos nutrientes, por ejemplo, si quiero solubilizar guanos, harina de huesos o algas, lo que hago es crear un lacto fermento con cada uno de ellos, en el caso de lacto fermentos con minerales, sigo preparándolo mezclando varios, este preparado es muy eficiente en quelatar minerales, y sobre todo en solubilizar fósforo. PROCEDIMIENTO: A veces consigo suero de oveja de un vecino que hace quesos, a veces hago suero de leche cruda de vaca y cuando no tengo ninguna de estas fuentes, hago suero a partir de leche pasteurizada, como el caso de este. - Mezclo el suero (1l) con la melaza y la miel, lo caliento a unos 30°C. - Peso los ingredientes. Como regla general, en el caso de componentes orgánicos usar del 8 al 10% como máximo, respecto a la cantidad de líquido. En el caso de minerales del 4 al 5%. - Añado la levadura al suero con la melaza y la miel. - Añado los componentes secos al barril. - Añado el suero con la melaza y la levadura al barril y agito. - Añado el litro de auxinas líquidas y agito bien. - Lo cierro hermético con válvula de gases. - Guardo el barril a oscuras al menos durante 30 días, pero cuanto más tiempo lo mantengas cerrado antes de abrirlo por primera vez el resultado será mejor. La fermentación comienza violentamente a los pocos minutos dura varios días así y después se hace más lenta. USOS: Este es un preparado que uso como complemento a las auxinas en polvo, lo uso para hacer riegos o aplicaciones foliares de disponibilidad inmediata. - Hago aplicaciones foliares en plántulas, en las primeras semanas de vida. - Lo uso al comienzo de la etapa de crecimiento vegetativo en conjunto con agua de coco. - Riego con este preparado después de hacer cortes apicales. - Lo vuelvo a usar en riego en conjunto con el agua de coco al comienzo de la floración, y esta es la última vez que lo uso en un cultivo. Una señal inequívoca de la actuación de las hormonas, es que las plantas son más susceptibles al fototropismo, esto se traduce en una respuesta mayor a la incidencia lumínica, las plantas, sus hojas y brotes se inclinan y se dirigen hacia la mayor fuente de luz. Yo lo he visto muchas veces después de aplicar auxinas. y esto es todo por hoy... 😅 Hasta la próxima semana... GRACIAS POR ESTAR AHÍ, CULTIVADORES!!🖐️👨‍🌾💧💦🌞💡 =================================

Planta de buena ramificación, tallos un poco debiles. Cogollos compactos y redondeados en la punta

Week 1 of flower, she is growing daily , starting to smell nice..

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Still stacking up grapefruit is not as impressive as gorilla glue and strawberry pie. One of my Vivusun 315 watt CMH ballasts stopped working after only a month’s use. I’m trying to get a replacement but the company is making me jump hoops for warranty. I have had a Topolite 630w CMH for three years and it’s still working great. I cut lights down to 12/12 to see if grapefruit will start to stack up. The smell is definitely getting stronger with the sticky strawberry pie being the strongest.

Added a second scrog net for the taller plants last Friday. Constantly defoliating to increase light penetration but not trying to stress the plants. (Selective leaf picking, anything but the top 3 fan leaves are up for grabs if necessary) Plants loved the tea I have them last week. Visual improvements in every plant 2 days later. Top dressing later this week on 9/29: 5 tablespoons Gaia green 444 5 tablespoons Gaia Green 284 15 tablespoon Wiggle Worm Earth Worm Castings Light increased to 75%

Video quality is so so for closeups with GoPro. Both phenos are super fire 2 more watering and will be flushing for about two weeks should take me near harvest at week 9-10. Mars Hydro FC4800 dimmed at 300w, will help lower temps and bring out those colours.