Hi it is the fourth week it grows well with short internodes, it supports high temperatures well. Soon I will transplant it into a bigger pot and practice the LST. Wish you all a nice day 🌳😎

Week 7 is over, they did their flowering stretch and are looking good. Temps and humidity are quite optimal now.

3/21/22 Switched from Bonnie to Clyde, added bud booster as well. Turned on air domes and added a trellis net too! This run is going very well.

Sour wiz came out amazing. Not many problems during her grow. Each pheno came out really different but that’s from my doing. I trained each plant differently to see what the difference would be. Responds really well to stress and training. I can’t tell you in words how great the flowers are. They’re literally coated in trichomes and smell and taste so damn good. Fruity sweet gasoline. Enjoy and thanks everyone who looks and follows.0

No problems throughout the entire grow, a very easy plant, literally automatic. It produced a lot of resin and smelled delicious, very good. Low production due to the small 3L pot, cold, and only 12 hours of light. But the quality is outstanding.

Its starting to look more like a forest from each day that goes on. frost also starting to appear already and we are still early in flower ;) d.66 all good in the hood, ill will try to pull those 2 who are very close to the light more back to the wall, so the lower stalks can get light and space d.66 a little bit of bamboo and lst done without problems 🌞

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Heat stress temperature outside getting to high

* *********** Week 11 - June 20 to 26, 2020 - Days 71 to 77 from germination *********** * These girls have been continuing their growth this week and looking better all the time. GSC2 still slow though and will not have much yield. Her leaves have turned very dark this week due to lockouts I suspect. Her hairs are still very white and coming out pointy looking for pollen and swelling. GSC is still swelling and her buds are bigger at the end of the week. Purple colours also coming out in her. The big girl has done well being squished in the corner as I had to put the two in one tent this week. The frost in GSC has been coming out for the last two weeks and is really getting sticky this week. The pH is still crazy high for the girls but they are pushing through this issue and finishing up. These are very resilient plants and I am impressed with her vigour!! Still giving them feedings in the 3.0 pH range to help as her runoff is still coming in at mid 7’s......for both girls. GSC has been feed hard because her leaves have a nice pale colour, unlike GSC2, so keep her going and swelling. They were given a heavy watering of 8L each on day 71 to find out where the medium is. They were 7.9pH when started and last runoff was roughly 7.1pH......should have gone further to bring down more but stopped there so I didn’t flush out all of the feed since they have a couple fo weeks left. The hairs on GSC are turning more of a tan colour rather than snow white. I suspect she they have roughly this week plus another yet before thinking about harvest.......I see them going to 84 days roughly, 12 weeks. GSC bud sites are getting pointy this week. Added bamboo steaks to GSC to tie the long branches to and support her weight. GSC2 less so and are still looking more round as she continues to fill in her buds. GSC stems have been turning purple more and more this week. Suspect it is a combination of pH and stresses with temps. GSC2 was tied more this week as well to let more light in closer to the main stem. This paid off as well as she is stacking the lower points more. She, GSC2, has also paid a bit of a price over the last week because she was kept in the flower tent with other more mature girls. The environment in that tent was striving for 76 degrees and 51% humidity but GSC2 wants 82 degrees and 65% humidity........didn’t have much choice😢 Fast Buds has rocked this strain and dialled her in after the generations of breeding!! She is very frosty for an auto and had she been given the correct watering, she would be considered an easy grow In my opinion! The two girls are growing very different but that is grower related to transplant and not genetics. Awesome job Fast Buds......the girls are keeping me smiling......and scratching my head at the same time👍👍👍👍 Little more detail....... June 20/20 - Day 71 - 6L low ph flush of plain water @ 4.0 to bring down pH..........3L each girl. - Followed with a low pH feeding of 4L watering with Rezin, Liquid Wt, CalMag, B52 @ 2ml, Piranha @ 1ml, Voodoo @ 0.5ml/L, = 1170ppm and pH 4.4 - GSC1 tops are getting lots of purple in the bud. - GSC1 is filling in nicely and top leaves are starting to fade yellow. - GSC2 is dark😞 June 21/20 - Day 72 - continuing flush with 12L of plain water pH to 3.3 to bring down pH. - 6L given to each girl. - added bamboo stakes to pull GSC1 apart and open up the middle bud sites to more light. - GSC1 is 38" tall and 36" across now😀👍 - GSC2 is 20" tall and 24" wide👍 June 22/20 - Day 73 - 2L each watering with Rezin @ 1ml - hairs are turning more red and more white to tan now. - GSC1 is closer.....getting to home stretch soon. June 23/20 - Day 74 - 5L - Massive @ 3ml/L, Rezin & L.Weight & B52 @ 2ml/L, Vitathrive & Dual Fuel @ 1ml/L = 1110ppm - GSC 3L, GSC2 - 2L - they are getting close to the end so getting the last bits of everything into them😀 - noticing GSC1 top cola may start to bleach out a bit. - GSC2 feels like she has stalled. June 24/20 - Day 75 - watering 3L each with Massive & Terpinator @ 3ml/L, Rezin & Vita & L.Wt @ 2ml/L, Dual Fuel @ 1.5ml/L, CalMag @ 1ml/L = 1385ppm and pH to 3.9...crazy! - moved the two girls together today as the other two are going into darkness now, they are done. June 25/20 - Day 76 - Dry out day - GSC is doing well with her buds filling in now and firming up. Top leaves are drying more. - GSC2 is dark.....F......plain water and not much more we can do. June 26/20 - Day 77 - 7L watering with Rezin and Sensyzime @ 2ml = 75ppm and pH at 4.0 - 4L given to GSC and 3L given to GSC2. - Staying with RO water now.......tap water appears to have been an issue. - too bad the ph was such an issue.....GSC would be a monster😞 - run off numbers in pots: GSC 7.6pH and 780ppm GSC2 7.6pH and 1850ppm (she has stalled) Awesome strain Fast Buds.......will be running her again!!!!!!

Today July 2nd will mark Day 36 in flower. Took the defoliating real well. Now looking forward to see what it do with Open Seasme from FoxFarm. Didn’t use the Lotus. But other water feeding . I just use pure water but PH now 6.5 . No longer in Veg. Time to boom boom bloom . Let go growmies!!! :)

Checkout my Instagram @smallbudz to see the Small budget grow setup for indoor use, low watt, low heat, low noise, step by step. 25/10/2019 - First feed I gave her 0.25ml on 250ml of water of Biobizz-Grow, with 6.5ph. 26/10/2019 - Leafs looking a bit crooked, and some pale spot lets hope its not fungus. (gave her 100ml of just PH 6.5 water) 27/10/2019 - Feeding day, gave her 250ml water with 0.25ml Biobizz Grow, 6.4PH (changed feeding to once every 2 days with a plain water interval) 28/10/2019 - Started LST 30/10/2019 - Feeding day, gave her 250ml water with 0.25ml of each Biobizz - Grow,Bloom and Max, 6.3PH, added carbon filter and it raised the temps to 29c 31/10/2019 - A tad too much of nuts, little burn tip. (Sensi Seeds warned me but I still goofed it)

Smoke report! The smoke is heavenly! Tastes like a dessert for real! Get hints of vanilla and nutmeg with a proper shortbread or cookie flavour with earthy tones! The high! One for the end of the day! Euphoric feels with giggles like everything becomes funnny lol with deep body effects with feelings of can’t be botheredness 😂 Loved growing this plant especially when I revived her from a bad mistake! she can be trained a lot and suggest only topping once! I gave her a wet trim and dried in brown paper bags in temps of 20c-23c humidity was 60+ never 70 and dried in 7 days! First taste was amazing she literally tastes like a pudding/dessert tones of vanilla and almonds with a shortbread or cookie type flavour with earthy tones! Can’t wait to see what she’s like after a 4 week cure in jars with 58% boveda! She’s fire would defiantly suggest her and the 10L pot was perfect! it’s already growing again so I’m glad I germed another! 12 out of 10 gromies 🔥🔥🔥🔥

She doing very well, altrough a lot of insects eat her leaves. Even if she can get another 3-4 weeks of life, I need to cut her down earlier, because the wether is becoming colder and colder, and I got other problems. so in the next days I will flush her and within 2 weeks harvest her. If it wasn't for her slow growth in the first 2 weeks she would probably be at her best right now.

So there's a few things going on here. First, im not entirely sure if this is amnesia. I started 3 grows at the same time and have forgotten to label them when i've repotted them. This is the most sativa out of the batch of 3 (others are girl scout cookies and monster skittlez) and its supposed to flower for 12 weeks or something like that. However, this is week 7 of flower (or possibly 8, still finding it difficult to pinpoint that) and looking at the trichromes i have a feeling that she is ready for harvest. I'm hoping you guys can help me out here - so theres two questions id like to ask: - does this look like an amnesia fotoperiod plant? and, - according to the trichrome shots : is she about ready for harvest? thanks!

Week two starting. The delux slurbet (rhs) are really stretching. The GSC (lhs) not so much At end of week (day 14 from flip)had a nice haircut so the air and light can penetrate

All feeds with nutes use either a whole ratio or combination of "Veg Mix" and "Bloom Mix"concentrates DILUTED in water until a total ppm of add in is reached using a (Total Dissolved Solids)TDS Meter measured in PPM (parts per million). The "Veg Mix" concentrate will eventually be added in smaller ratios and "Bloom Mix" concentrate what will eventually replace the "Veg Mix" concentrate entirely with the ppm and ratios listed when I feed. Veg mix recipe is on week 3. Bloom Mix recipe is on week 5. Day 35 start of week 5 since sprout Today I increased my ppfd to 410 highest, 400 center, and 385 lowest (also raised the light panel to 32 inches and increased the wattage to my second tick up of 5) temp and humidity are set at 74F/63%RH/33%IL Vent Oldest leaves are looking more and more crusty now and crack when touched. And now one of my newest leaves are starting to show signs of the brown spots. HST looks to be going okay as all branches turned upward in a day - seems like the stems are now dried out but I could just be noticing hardwood setting in - I know they are still letting something through as the newest nodes are starting to grow - hoping it's just a transition to the new position but will obviously monitor Defoliation, removed the 4 oldest leaves affected by the brown spots to see it it speeds up on the next leaf. Did light LST to adjust binds and ensure they are not constricting the branches. Day 36 (late entry but this happened yesterday) Stats were all checked, VPD 1.0 with 73F/64%RH/33% IL Vent - Light measured ppfd at 410 highest, 400 center, and 390 at lowest Took control stats - 3 soil ph meter tests 5.35, 5.24, and 5.33 - truly concerned this is my issue, I went with hardwood ash from my grill. Measured 1/3rd cup and sprinkled it over he whole top being sure not to get any directly on the plant for fear of burn - used a gallon of de-chlorinated tap water at 8.06ph to water it in. Noticed side runoff but looked like less than a quart came out. This is where I realized I never change my drip tray out before I did this, so ppm test would be worthless so I skipped it. Day 37 Took stats this morning- VPD and lights mostly the same as yesterday, but with new growth the lights changed a little - ppfd at 410 highest, 400 center and 400 at lowest. took control pictures for each section again for comparison still showing more brown spots spreading over the oldest leaves. However the hardwood ash seems to have helped the ph. I took 3 soil meter readings this morning and got 6.27, 6.56, and 6.69 for avg of 6.506 Now I will watch to see if the feed nutes can get through and help stop the spread of the issue. Day 38 Checked ph meters - liquid meter needs slight calibration but since Im not using it today, I'll do it later. However my soil meter is still spot on. So I took 3 readings - 6.11, 6.09, and 6.1 for and avg of 6.1 - falling from yesterday by about .4 - also took a picture to show where I have been random in my soil checks Took test pictures of each quarter again. UL, UR, LL, and LR - each quarter got progressively worse still however the new growth seems to be doing pretty good still. - I dont want to take the older ones off until she shows a positive response to something. (only have these and the new leaves left.) So I plan to treat with feed dunk/de chlorinated tap again (not today, in a day or two) Did some slight adjusting of the branches to keep them the same height as the left side was lifting the binds out of the soil. ppfd now at 430 highest, 420 at center and 415 at lowest - VPD steady at 1.0 using 73F/64% RH/33%IL Vent Day 39 Did 3 morning readings of ph - 6.84, 6.78, and 6.85 for an avg of 6.823(higher than yesterday's avg by .7 and 2 days before by .3 so I will continue to monitor so that I can catch it before it runs up by flushing with lower ph feed or water) She is growing as noted by the increase in height now. close to 9 inches tall here and the 8 cola tops look fairly level so I didnt do any LST or bind adjustments. But measured ppfd and got 455, 440, 435, and 425 over the 4 new growth areas. VPD still consistent at 1.0 - 73 to 76F/ 63 to 64% RH/ 33% IL Vent Brown spots are still increasing and the leaves are beginning to taco as the last ones did. New growth doesnt seem to be showing any signs yet, so fingers crossed I got it with ph. Day 40 Checked stats - PH seems to have stabilized, 3 readings 6.81, 6.84, and 6.82 for an avg of 6.823 VPD at about 1.0 with temp at 74F/63% RH/ and 33% IL Vent. PPFD was at 455, 440, 430, and 435 over each cola in same order as pictures. She is still growing so I took pictures of that progression with a tape measure. Hardwood seems to have set now as none of the branches lifted by flexibility just new growth. Still relatively flat Calcium deficiency seems to be staying on the oldest leaves with the edges now crisping enough to begin to crack on bending attempts. The newest leaves are still not showing any signs of issues. I may defoliate them tomorrow so she can have time to recover before binding the branches again once she's above 12 inches tall. ---- correction ---- Now that I have examined the new growth on a larger scale in photos, I can see the start of the issue there now too! Q!%#$ Day 41 Im going to defoliate the bad leaves and see if it progresses any further in the next 2 days and re-evaluate in 3. It's been 5 days since the wood ash treatment and the last time she's been given water. However the soil is still fairly wet since that was so close to the dunk before, so I plan to feed with nutes in a day or two to replenish more of what washed and and hope the ph was the single issue fixing the rest. Removed the other set of binds today and took front/back pictures of the leaves I took off. They were surprisingly wet even though they look crispy. There's still plenty getting to these branches as they stand tall in my hand for close to 30 minutes before finally drooping over by being cutoff. Noticed red stems making me think it might need phosphorus in that next feed Also added a modified tomato plant support to the pot to get an idea of what kind of growth Im looking for next should she still want to grow on

Plants as of august 11th

Day 15 PH 6.0 EC 0.8 PPM 400 DLI 20h 10.8 PPFD 151 Water 23 Day 16 Fill up the pot with water and nuts PH 5.9 EC 1.5 PPM 730 DLI 20h PPFD 151 Water 22 Day 17 Add Ph down PH 6.7/5.8 EC 1.6 PPM 800/770 DLI 20h 20.2 PPFD 280 Water 22 Day 18 Thu Add Ph down PH 6.1/5.8 EC 1.6 PPM 810/820 DLI 20h 20.2 PPFD 280 Water 23c Day 19 Fri PH 6.0 EC 1.7 PPM 820 DLI 20h 20.2 PPFD 280 Water 21c Day 20 Sat Hmm I think light is to strong but I'm not sure 🤔 PH 5.9 EC 1.7 PPM 830 DLI 20h 20.2 PPFD 280 Water 21c Day 21 Sun PH 5.9 EC 1.7 PPM 840 DLI 20h 20.2 PPFD 280 Water 21c

Entering the 12th week and she is looking and smelling great. Lots of bud sites developing nicely. Super happy with how well the mainlining worked out for this auto. And still few more weeks still to finish up! Cheers 😎