Great progress with not much to report. All my plants this grow I trained to be tall instead of my normal method where I like to spread a plant to the width of my space. About 80cm across.. I thought this time if I trained them tall and thin I could fit 2 side by side. But as I am chicken I decided to do the kush as I normally would so she is a lot wider and not as tall. She is beautiful and I love this strain so far. Fat leaves early in veg to power her stretch and then a more slim leaf like a sativa in flower. This works great as it's letting loads of light through to her lowers Feeds are going in at 1.8 to 1.9ec she's loving it and I think could take a bit more.. but as I said earlier I'm a chicken and she is doing so well...😜 Sorry about the poor video I have 4 plants that are over a meter tall all squashed behind me so I could barley move..😔 Thanks for looking. Grow well 🌿💚🌿🙏🏼

changed fertilizers. cut clones. flowering room in progress

Visto que el agua de base sale con unos valores muy altos he decido obtar por mezclar el agua de riego con agua destilada mitad/mitad. De esta forma le podré aportar mayor cantidad de nutrientes sin que los valores suban excesivamente. Por otro lado también le añadiré ácido cítrico para bajar el PH. Os presento como voy regando, es un inventillo que hace años hice y sigue dando guerra. Va muy bién para repartir el agua y relentiza el riego haciendo que el agua vaya filtrando mejor por el sustrato. El embudo lleva una malla donde se quedan los restos más grandes y así no se atasquen los abujeros. Alguno dirá que pierde agua pero no es así, el agua que cae fuera es por que no tube punteria al llenar el emudo y casi lo tiro todo fuera. No se puede hacer tres cosas a la vez, soy hombre hehehe. no podia rellenar el embudo, regar y filmar con el movil al mismo tiempo. Y a más el video está reducido a cámara rápida por lo que parece que pierda aun más rápido.

Did 2 flushes now. They have only one more week to go and they're finally ready.

The first week of flower

Y es el turno de las resionosisimas Lebron Haze. Hermosas plantas, ya te siento cerca tu colocón!

Praying the warm weather holds out until October. I was told this strain take about 60 days in flower before harvest

Nothing but colas on all 3 this is going to be a big harvest. Another 2 or 3 weeks max.

Just waiting patiently for her to show up! Happy growing everyone Blessings and thanks for your support

Green House Feeded one is enjoying life and growing big health buds. She received her last lollipoping. Advanced Nutrients one is still struggling. I am increasing the feeding per Advanced Nutrients supports suggestion. Let’s hope she recovers.

Yo! It's week 2 of flower and the ladies are looking good! I can start smelling "green" in my grow room where my box is. Caramelino is stretching nicely with many colas! She is starting to push out some pistils. Nice structure and took the training well! Bruce Banner is living up to her name as she is growing big and strong. Took the FIM really well and she's got explosive growth. I love how she is growing. Stretching quite nicely aswell! Depending on the buds, I might just reveg and take some cuttings. Northern Light Clone is stretching nicely! Looking better than her mother thus far, as her mother had heavy stress outdoor and my negligence as a cherry on top. Can't wait to see what she looks like indoor. My clones are booming! Moved the 5 test batch outdoor as my space got quite restricted. Didn't expect my plants to go this crazy! Haha. Anyway, keep y ou ur eyes peeled coz this is gonna be DANK! Peace

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

week intel: its time for second pruning they grew up too fast and need second pruning as below : first i remove big fan leaves and only leaves then let them rest for 1 day then the second part of pruning will get done that is removing branches based on these conditions: 1-if the branch is very low and never can make it to the top , 2- if branch is in shade even after pruning fan leaves , 3- if there are too many branches at the small space then non of them will get resources so if there is no space for branch then , they must get remove. everything is perfect! stresses : pruning big fan leaves and lower branches + a little E.C stress around 1.7 once a week feeding: i feed them 3 times this week with this order : day 1 : i feed them heavy with silicate +base nutrients(calcium & micros + Bloom) about 884 ppm - 1.7 e.c to cause a little stress. day 3 : i feed them low dose of Feeding Booster + Karbo Boost around 325 ppm - 0.6 e.c to let them recover a little but not fully recover still a little stress will caused. day 5 : i feed them with low dose of Top-Max + B-52 around 213 ppm - 0.4 e.c to let them recover the stresses to get ready for another stress next week. guide of the week : no more stresses from now on till the end and from next week i'll reduce the amount of nitrogen and calcium to below half to the end.

❤️🧡💛💚💙💜

I have to dry the buds in the dark, at 20 degrees in 50% humidity 🙏🤝

I’m on my last days before harvest

Still have these ladies in there Solo cups will most likely pot these girls this week Finally moved these ladies over to there pots looking good for now Oh yea no nuts just yet still going with PH bal water

Beautiful plant mold resistant keeps on stretching will have nice long colas😋