Went light on the nutes. Quarter strength. They responded well. Lowest leaves looking somewhat burnt. Still getting fat though.

Day 65, 17th of November 2020: Welcome back at the beggining of the 3rd week of flowering. They seem to be stopped streching and now concentrating on buds. All of them are gorgeous..... The 2 Zamnesia genetics Gelato and Kalini Asia are pretty and buds are forming nicely. Kalini Asia might strech a bit more but not long. The Sweet Seed ones are really nice and I am so happy because Red Hot Cookies is already getting red.... pistils and around the leaves.. I hope the same happens to the Red Mandarine and Tropicanna Poison also. They are so gorgeous. They calmed down I don't expect more strech. Fertilization still the same every 2nd day with the ratio and mix above. Some lollipopping (Defoliation) is also done. I removed all the LST the plant remains in the same shape from now. The lamp is on 11.30 min and off 12.30 min. Last week was 15 min longer light cycle.... So every week 15 min shorter light cycle until the 5th week. So far -30 min. It switches on at 6 am and off at 17.30 pm.

...😎

8/14 Everything looked beautiful this morning. Seems like I've got the watering schedule down better. I do have one gmo that looks hungry so I need to increase nutes. At least on that plant. Toasted toffy has little spits that could be water marks, pests or septoria. I don't think it's septoria. In the pastvi lost far more leaves when I had septoria. I've been crazy busy. I'm surprised things are going this well. I need to put up the final supports so I can add to them once I've got big heavy buds. I was really stoked to see everything doing so well. The plant in the 50gallon is the furthest in flower. I'm so grateful to have the ability to grow high quality cannabis for myself amd my wife. There's nothing quite like it. That hash I made turned out great. I think I'll press it today. Supports will be done this week. Saw a few aphids on the plant I cut down. Earwigs aren't here this summer or there would be NO aphids. Plus when I cleaned out the insides this morning I found some dead leaves WAY in the middle by the stalk. They would've eaten that shit if they were here. Birds and other predators seem to be keeping pillars at bay. I'm not seeing the damage and when I do sfind one it's absolutely tiny like a newborn. I'll think about whether I need to spray BT. 8/15 That fucking cancel button always fucks everything out. I was done no I need to start over. Didn't water last night. Found pm on my gmo in the 30. Interior of the plant. Should've defoliated better and earlier. Oh well. I'll treat with k bicarb or plant doctor. I'll have to think about it. Other plants are looking good. Well they all are. I just hate pm. I can't isolate it due to local laws so it is what it is. Nothing I haven't dealt with before. Watered today. The middle gmo in the 30 got 1.5 gallons. The other plants each got a gallon. Including the one in the 10gal and 50 gal. Its supposed to rain but only like .1. I also chose to feed today. All plants got a gallon. I DID NOT WATER THE EVENT HORIZON IN THE MIDDLE AND THE SHERB PIE AS THEY WERE PRAYING AND HEAVY. I need to get these supports up. I'll update as I go. Oh and one thing I remembered is that, I didn't properly sanitize the trellis nets I installed on the plant that has pm (non visible today but still). I harvested the plant that used that bet last year was harvested in two stages. The bottom I let go way later and ended up with a little pm on the stuff I left for hash material and it got some pm. I wonder if that's whete this came from. 8/16 Death in the family this morning. I couldn't decide if I should use organocide plant doctor or not. It's a systemic It's been discontinued and reformulated. It's a systemic fungicide. Instead I mixed two tsp potassium bicarbonate with a little dawn in a half gallon mister. I used gloves and defoliated everything that had pm on it. I checked the plants next to it and luckily it hasn't spread yet....but it will. I feel safer using the k bicarb. I'll do more research and try to find the best way to tackle this. I don't want to get rid of the plant and due to local ordinance I can't isolate it. If I can keep it to this one plantvthat would be fine. I'd just use it for extracts. So glad I didn't use all that netting and put up tjosr supports. I'll need to disinfect them if I decide to use them. We'll see. Plants are coming right along flowering. WENT BACK OVER AND DEFOLIATED A BUNCH OF fan leaves and interior stuff to promote airflow. Still saw pm on that plant u had treated earlier with k bicarb. I can't isolate due to laws and I'm not willing to discard this massive monster cropped plant. So I'm going to treat it. I started by removing everything infected and improving airflow on that plant and all the others. I didn't make it to one event horizon. I plan to treat the infected plant with Organocide Plant Doctor since its what I have on hand and I've had good luck. It's a systemic. After I treat the one plant and see that it didn't hurt the plant I'll use a preventative dosage on the other plants. I've battled wpm several times. This is something I'm very familiar with. What sucks is it's totally my fault it happened due to grower error. This has set back me puttingvup my supports as well. Plants look good woth a haircut. Also the toasted toffy had some leaves removed with spots that looked like septoria. I think nutes havecreally kicked things in gear. Now there are little buds on plants. 8/17 BAGS still seemed heavy so I didn't water. It's been MUCH cooler. It's 63 at 9am. It would normally be 80 by now so maybe they aren't using as much water. I watered the the toasted toffy I missed last round but the Sherb Pie still had weight to it. I also watered the GMO on the far side and the one in the 30 as the seemed a little lighter. I looked in and I couldn't find a SPOT of powder mildew on the plant! I know it will come back but on this 100% rh day there isn't a spot I can find! I'm going to go check on them later today. Do some more defoliation and treat the plants with Plant Doctor to try to mitigate the spread of the P.M. Very suprised the k bicarb worked like that. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 11. I WATERED THE TWO THAT DIDNT GET WATERED LAST TIME. THE EVENT HORIZON AND THE SHERB PIE. IT WAS COLD AND OVERCAST. TEMPS HAVE BEEN MUCH COOLER. SOON AS I WATERED THE SUN CAME OHT AND THE TEMP WENT UP. I WENT THROUGH THE PLANTS I MISSED AND SEFOLIATED LEAVES AND INTERIOR BRANCHES TO INCREASE AIRFLOW. SURPRISED TO STILL SEE NO PM WITH 100% HUMIDITY. I WENT THROUGH EVERY PLANT. ILL NEED TO GO TJROUGH AGAIN BUT TJIS IS MUCH BETTER. THE TOASTED TOFFY THAT MAY HAVE SEPTORIA I WILL TREAT TONOGHT WITH PLANT DOCTOR. I REMOVED ANYTHING LOOKING INFECTED. I LSTed THE BIGGEST BRANCHES WITH CLIPS TO THE BAG AMD TWINE. SO AIRFLOW IS MUCH BETTER. I THEN REMOVED A BU CH OF THE MIDDLE. I COULD TAKE MORE BUT ON OUTDOOR HARVESTS THAT LITTLE STUFF GOES IN EXTRACTS. I PUT A FEW HOURS IN TODAY. IM GOING BACK AND ILL TEST THE PLANT DOCTOR ON THE TOASTED TOFFY. BUT IF THE K BICARB WORKS THIS GOOD ILL JUST KEEP USING THAT. 8/18 It started sprinkling when I left this morning. I did more defoliation on a few different plants. Including the healthiest GMO. It seems like things should be further in flower but it is what it is. I'm not doing clones again. Only reason I did is because I lost my 72 seedlings and depleted my seed supply. I hate treating pm. Lost Coast Plant Therapy I'd really whete its at when it comes to treating pm. I might just order that. My commercial buddy told me that he wouldn't use the plant doctor and not to "spray shot all over my plants". He's probably right. I see something small and try to overcurrent. I dont see any more septoria looking leaves on the toasted toffy since I lsted it and removed damaged leaves. I was going to use the fungicide plant doctor on that and then use it ad a preventative. He's probably right. I've put a lot of work in defoliation and such. It WILL spread but it hasn't yet. I removed what I saw. I was going to hit it again with k bicarb but it said it should be weekly treatments.i hope I'm doing things right. I shouldn't be this worried about pm but I've got am anxiety disorder. I'll fully sterilize (AGAIN) my posts and trellis netting before I instal it. I'll probably go check on them later. It's hard to avoid pm with 100% humidity and 30° temp swings. I've got a few lights so maybe this winter I'll do indoor. I'll try to keep this updated. LOOKING BACK AT PRIOR DIARIES I GUESS IM RIGHT WHERE I SHOULD BE FLOWERING WISE. I JUST HAD A COUPLE REALLY EARLY PHENOS A COUPLE TIMES. 8/19 Defoliated some more stuff amd tried to improve airflow. Humidity is high and it was sprinkling earlier. I think we'll have showers. Not seeing much pm. MAYBE a little in the middle of that middle gmo but it could just be residue. I'll treat it again with potassium bicarbonate soon. If that doesn't work I'll switch up treatments. I've got citric acid amd some other stuff too. I almost ordered lost coast last night but decided I'd wait to try it out. The toasted toffy has SOME spots that look like septoria. It's the second furthest in flower and very indica leaning. It seems to be flowering vigorously so I don't want to fuck with it too much. I could use plant doctor on it and see what happens but I'm going to monitor for a few days after defoliating. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 4 AND SHOOK OFFCTHE PLANTS. HADNT RAINED MUCH. BAGS ARE STILL HEAVY. THE TEN WAS LIGHT AND THE EVENT HORIZON BESIDE IT SEEMED A LITTLE LGHT AS WELL. I THINK IT MIGHT BE ME COMPARING THEM TO OTHER PLANTS THAT ARE SATURATED. SEEING HOW THEY BOTH LOOKED THE BEST IVE EVER SEEN THEM I HELD OFF WATERING. ITS ALSO SPRINKL9NG AMD GOING TO RAIN TONIGHT. ILL REASSESS IN THE MORNING. PLANNED ON USING PLANT DOCTOR ON TOASTED TOFFY BUT DECIDED AGAINST IT PARTIALLY DUE TO THE RAIN. PARTIALLY BECAUSE I PUSSED OUT. I WANTED TO FEED. IVE NOTICED SOME FADE AND PLANTS PUSHING AND TRYING TO GET OVER THE FENXE INTO FLOWER. THE TOASTED TOFFY AND THE UNKNOWN IN THE 50 ATE THE FURTHEST ALONG AND DEVELOPING ROCK HARD BUDS. GMO HAS A MASSIVE STRETCH. THINGS CHANGE DAILY. I WANTED TO GET A GOOD DOSE OF NUTES IN SO AFTER THIS LITTLE BIT OF RAIN WHEN WE GET THAT NICE SUNSHINE MY PLANTS WILL TAKE OFF!! THEY'VE BEEN PROGRESSING FAST DESPITE THE SHITTY WEATHER. 8/20 It's still sprinkling. It SAYS WE got zero rain yesterday but that's just not true. Today is supposed to be light showers with like .02 in 9f rain. I mixed up some water to check the plants. I figured a few would he light. The event horizon on the back SEEMED a little light. So did the one invthe ten. I realized it was just comparing it to the bags that were saturated. Still I ended up giving the event horizon in the back a half gallon and split the other half with the one in the 10 that dries out super fast. It's crazy. The weather just abruptly changed one day and I go from watering twice a day to hardly at all! Everything but the sherb pie and the seedling in the 10gal are vigorously flowering. Upping the nutes was a smart move. The seemed to like it. I'm gonna check later and as soon as I can I'll hit that toasted toffy with plant doctor. That's tied for furthest along in flower. I've done a bunch of research and I think this is the right move. I'll keep this updated. After this small patch of shitty weather we are goingvto get some sun amd these girls will EXPLODE! WENT BACK OVER A FEW TIMES. LAST AT SIX. I DID SOME DEFOLIATION AND PRUNING OF PLANT INTERIORS. ITS ABOUT TIME TO TREAT THE TOASTED TOFFY AGAIN WITH PLANT DOCTOR. I CAN SEE SOME SEPTORIA SPOTS. I TREATED THE EVENT HORIZON THIS MORNING. IT GOT A FEW HOURS BEFORE A LITTPE RAIN WND THEN SUNNY AND 80. I USED BETWEEN A QUARTER AND HALF GALLON ON THE INE PLANT. I MAY NOT HAVE USED ENOUGH OF THE MIXED UP SOLUTION ONVTHE TOASTED TOFFY. IT HAD BEEN WORKING AWESOME AND NOW THAT ITS TIME TO REAPPLY I NOTICE A FEW LEAVES THAT LOOK INFECTED. OVER THE NEXT WEEK ILL BE MONITORING THE RESPONS FROM THE PLANT DOCTOR. I'M CONSIDERING APPLYING PLANT DOCTOR TO THE REST OF THE GARDEN. I THIBJ THE K BICARB HAS BEEN DOING GOOD KEEPING THE PM DOWN ON THE MIDDLE GMO. I HATE THAT I HAVE TO FIGHT DISEASES. IM NOT DOING CLONES AGAIN. AND IM GOING TO BE MUCH CLEANER. THE SHERB PIE LOOKS A LITTLE OVERWATERED AND HAS SOME YELLOW LEAVES BUT MANY HAVE TURNED PURPLE AND OTHER FALL COLORS. THE PLANTS ARE AGGRESSIVELY FLOWERING AND TEMPS ARE CHANGING. STILL IN EARLY FLOWER. IVE GOT A GOOD FEELING. IVE DEALT WITH MUCH WORSE AND CAME OUT GOOD.

Day 49. Those buds are now really starting to swell up. They also produce a very lovely smell🤩 A few days ago I also changed the light colour from blue and red to only red. We'll see how the buds will react to that.

It’s now time to start flower. They are looking amazing and I’m going to go ahead and throw his crocs in there. I have one tent that I have not put in flower yet just for the main fact that one of my seats became a auto flower so I’m letting them run more time to let that auto flower finish and see what that becomes

they are taking shape in their flowering but one of them requires urgent nutrients ... tomorrow comprare.biobizz ... although I am finding that I only use organic material ... she needs it .. I hope that my work trips do not affect my babies.... the other pack its height is 160 cm

Hi

Well this was quite an experience, from the nice box the dutch passions come in to the germination , vigours sprouts came about, and took well to transplant. Potted each of these into their own soil and peat mix, layered seven of each i think with perlite. they got CELLMAX soil, best soil I've ever used for sure, it's horticultural soil so it's been steamed meaning no pollutants and no pests. The room itself this time i had reworked a bit, still loads of bends on the tubes though, but had a proper intake this time with a fine mesh filter so nothing got into the room. Had the pots elevated only by the time flower came around same for the CO2 so I only had a few good weeks with it. Didn't kill the plants though, so I'll review using it in my Six shooter diary, check it out . Anyway these plants veged out , and in the first weeks had the light too high for how strong/weak it was (it's crazy how close you need to have it actually!) and the little seedlings stretched some, so I LST'ed all of them. They all took to LST really well actually. The biotabs plant was the first one to sort of musle through her bindings, and i ended up feeling sorry for it and removing them thinking the bend was mostly done anyway. It didn't help that this was a corner plant and I just didnt really have access to it as nicely as the others. Anyway the LST wasnt done though and the plant fully redressed showing only a little bend towards its base at harvest time. The Mr. B's showed the best results on LST. It got bent 90° then grew out but managed to stick it's main cola out just in time i guess, so it had several mains maybe 3 maybe 4 and several side shoots. The Vertafort one took to LST the worst of the three (through no fault on vertafort's nutrient's part!) It basically got bent 90° but got held down too much by the bindings , and being a corner plant simply it got less light the whole grow, being overtaken by the other plants in the tent. Through veg though these grew to nice busheles, each in their own style, pushing out fat indica leaves , mostly being kept at appropriate VPDs. Note that the temps i've recorded are for maximum temperatures hey ! Anyway it I ended up with an uneven canopy by the start of flower stretch due to the different LST styles and the different growth rates, the vertafort one being basically stunted. During flower stretch these stretch ! lol doubled in size at a steady rate I can tell because the biotabs one was basically no longer LST'ed right? Anyway way blueberry styles not so much auto gsc styles that much I can tell you. The longer side colas a great too, they're much longer than the GSC's side colas and they have two or more flower nodes more each. By week 4 of flower the Mr. B's started to look pro, with a nice canopy and several distinguishable mains sticking out from the bush. The vertafort one was a corner plant so I just paid less attention to it - too bad for me ! Anyway the flowers themselves started to emerge with a calyx to larf ratio of 1:0 for the biotabs ones, and I started getting stoked. I could already tell from the squeeze that these would be nice and dense nuggy nug nugs just like I like them. The Mr.B's one was different though, the flowers grew all up and down the colas like they were all filled up. The sugar leafs themselves were like non-existant on Mr.B's but long and thin on the Mr.B's. Then the stacking began, last quite a while to finish up and rippen, i'd say from week 8 through 13. The trichomes reached out, filled up some, curled, in and were full white. I noticed some amber trichomes and it was time for the chop ! Throughout the grow I tried something new. From joining GD on my first grow I got loads of goodies from @Mrs_Larimar with the Mr.B's nutrients - thank you so much ! - and the biotabs contest , plus the Vertafort that came with seeds from the folks at Zambeza, Zamnesia, and RQS , all of these were dry nutrients, and I got those micro nutrients from my friends too. Great experience using dry nutrients, much more affordable on the whole, easier to measure too. That didnt stop me from messing up a few measures though ! So For most of the grow I planned to add my own micro. I had four micro powders made. One green one for early veg with all the "rare metals" in it at 2% , a bio cal mag, white powder for veg and early flower and a cal mag and mag sulfur I meant to use during flower. So I ended up giving a quarted dose of the organic cal mag most of the time then in flower still had them on a quarter dose of cal mag sulfur before i realised and switched up too late. My whole micro line up i think would cost 10 dollars retain and I had plenty of it left over i think it should last like 4 grows. Not that I'll use it again unless i can get a steady supply - a the travails of the underground micro nutrient market. Worked great though, pH neutral, i used it as spray too, next time I'll mix in humic acid directly in the same feed, because why not and because I would have massively helped. Sometimes in flower i used only calmagsulfur and maybe I didnt mix it in very well but i would dump everything on anyway , a couple time I would check after water and the clumps had formed like 3 inch crystal formations on the top of my soil... Anyone ever seen that before? maybe it's a good sign idk, i usually tried plain water to dissolve them asap. The biotabs worked great on the Colorado cookies though, that much I can say, no excesses of any sort detected, leaves weren't too dark green at all. Mr.B's turned out a BEAST , but that could be from the LST aswell... the vertafort one ended up being a very healthy plant that never lacked anything either. Around halfway through flower I started traing the colas upwards where they were drooping on the biotabs plants and the Mr.b's plant, glad i did because i think plants like to make colas going straight up right? Chopped these at the top of week 14 which is 95 days from the moment i dunked them into the water kept a calendar which I'll show you. Hung to dry for 10 days, then jarred with the 62% boveda, burped inspected daily for a week, then weekly for two weeks. I weighted what I kept lol , no small buds this time, finally my grower dream realized ! So happy i got two (maybe three phenos) because I loved the flowers on the biotabs but I also loved the yielding of the LST'ed pheno. Plenty of wasted cola space though if I'm honest, should have defoliated more, maybe done that just at the edge of veg or something, maybe next time I'll try to flux like @silky_smooth so I can keep them in veg longer and make me a couple beasts. Had to travel to for two halfway through, so what I did was to put perlite in the trays, get the pots off their grills and onto the perlite then i bottom fed plain water, the idea being that the perlite would keep the water from evaporating from the trays too quickly, just as i was loading up the trays , the nex day I saw three thrips but they were flying all wierd and all strange so i thought maybe the airflow was f-ing them up ... and i had to leave anyway. Got back and the pots were bone dry but the plants hadn't died, and the temps were way up. I think the remaining perlite absorbs heat... Anyway started top feeding them again but by this time they were showing signs of stress especially the biotabs one, the mr.b's kinda recovered, and the vertafort was healthy enough it just looked like a bit of magnesium issue. May this could be a good technique for other folks to try. Like i said the perlite might absorb heat, so remove it when you dont need it anymore (i had issues with heat). Over all these gens are yielders, had some of my best work in here, and some less good work. I like having been able to use the GD platform as a companion app, was great fun really. it's great to be able to put all your pictures up and see them side by side, i tried to keep it organised so you and I can see some interesting things like the "three stages of LST" and other interesting nuggets of info. Speaking of nuggets I'll try to get some more and some better pics of the nugs in. Hope you'll visit this again 🚀 EDIT: made some bubble hash for the first time, grower's priviledge ! only used the stems stalks and leafs for it, and it came out really delicious, smells like perfume, burns like incense and tastes like vanila and spices/hash lol basically used some bubble bags , rand the water through once, got negligeable 120s 75s and 45s but got some 25 quite a lot. ran it again, same results with just about the same amout of 25s, i thought i could go a third one, but got negligeable everything lol. Two passes for whatever that is in bubble hash lol, it's still got to dry for another week - bubble hash is kinda of the grower's priviledge, definitely recommend doing it ! 🚀

Overall I was happy with this strain and I did not have many problems growing. Plant was healthy for the entire grow with little to no signs of deficiencies. The only issue I had with the plant was it started sprouting a good amount of nanners the last few weeks of flower. I was able to pull them all off with tweezers, so now I just need to hope they didn't pollinate any of the other plants. Still need to dry for another two weeks, so I will provide a smoke report at that point. The plant is loud and still has that sweet funk. Excited to smoke it. I will be drying at 60° and 60% RH for 12 to 16 days. 12/28/2022: day 10 of drying at 60° and 60% RH. Smallest branches are starting to snap, but most of the main branches are not providing a noticable cracking sound yet. Buds are a little on the airy side, from what I can tell, but I'll provide a final update once trimmed. 1/2/2023: started trimming today, which is day 15 at 60° and 60% RH 1/4/2022: finished trimming and totaled 84 grams, so just under 3 oz. I know I said earlier the bud was a little airy, but I must have grabbed some lowers. Not the densest ever, but pretty nice nugs. Found some additional nanners I missed, but no seeds so far. Pretty happy with the results.

Let's go I think just 2 more weeks

Ho tolto lo schermo e le ho messe tutte e tre insieme sotto la lampada da 120w. Insieme ai fert ho dato anche un po' di miele, e aceto per il ph

Hi people 🤗 A lot has happened this week 😄 The 3 Blue Cheese and 2 Kosher Tangie Kush which have been in the flowering tent for 1 week have become very bushy 👍 Unfortunately I just noticed that I completely forgot to take pictures of the Blue Cheese Phenotype # 3 🤦‍♂️🏻 The picture will be given later. The rest of the Vegi tent is also progressing very well. They are repotted in 11 liter pots this week, and then come to the flowering chamber die the following week The next week there will be new pictures, until then I wish everyone a nice start into the new week 🙏🏻💪🏻 Let it grow 🍀🌱

Love this plant

I took a sample off the bud to see how it’ll look dried, so the plan is to cut the plant off Sunday! All I wanted is something to smoke and at this point I’m happy that seems to be the reality after the drying&curing process! Amazing feel! Some powdery mildew starting but shouldn’t be a problem if I cut soon!

Targona: 36 days since my little girl sprouted from seeds🌱 Fifth week of growth of my Apple Fritter Automatic 🍎🍏🍎 Nutrients: I use Advanced Hydroponics Of Holland nutrients - three basic components, still according to the table for growth and flowering, I only change the dosage according to the plant phase 💓 - - Dutch fertilizer Formula 1 Grow - supplies the plant with substances necessary for the perfect development of roots, stem and leaves; intended for the growth phase 🌾 - Dutch fertilizer Formula 2 Bloom - contains a large amount of nutrients necessary for rapid growth and fruit development, supplies the plant with energy; intended for the flowering phase 🌸🌿 - Dutch fertilizer Formula 3 Micro - increases oxygen intake, improves plant immunity, ensures better absorption of nutrients; intended for the growth and flowering phase 🌴 --------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------- ------ Plagron Power Roots - Root Stimulator Plagron Roots is a biological root stimulator that supports the formation of the root system. I use it until the fifth week of growth 🍃🍃 - I fertilize for the last time in the fifth week of plant growth - this week I fertilize for the last time. -------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------- -------- BioBizz Calmag - The special Calmag supplement was designed for professional and hobby growers who need to supply their plants with calcium and magnesium in organic quality for a long time or immediately. The 100% organic 💩💩 and certified BioBizz Calmag product is made of calcium carbonate and magnesium sulfate supplemented with humic acid. -------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------- -------- BioBizz Bio pH - is an organic pH regulator. An aqueous solution of citric acid, which occurs naturally in citrus fruits 🍋🍋 ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------------- During the flowering period, I add stimulants: - JUNGLE X Environ is a highly effective complex preparation for stimulating flower formation. 🌸🏵️ - Bud Candy - carbohydrates for my girls 🍭🍭🍭 General: Apple Fritter Automatic 🍎🍏🍎 - The girl is beautiful. I have to keep an eye on her 😁. She has grown to a considerable height - for an Indica dominant she is really very tall, she has outgrown all her sisters by a large chunk. She is strong and so far responds well to nutrients, the stem and branches are thick and the leaves are still beautifully green, strong and large Training: This week I did LST on the adult young branches by attaching them to the edges of the flowerpot with string, just like the others. There was no need to defoliate, the girl is not leafy at all, so at this time I only occasionally cut off a leaf that is blocking and shading 💚🌞🌞 Light: Mars Hydro TS1000 The plants respond effectively and the light is technically very well managed - I try to have 25 cm between the light and the plants, so I regularly move it up 💡💡💡 Thanks for the likes :) See you soon 😍😍

Recette du tco pour 20 litres. (Grammes : gr) 50gr biochar 250gr zéolite 3gr granulé Micro-Organisme IT45 10gr pollen d’abeilles 10gr levure de bière 3gr endomychorize 10gr consoude 20gr vers de farine 10gr cendre coque de ricin 12gr ortie microniser 15gr Kelp 10gr spiruline 10gr de cbd living soil 20ml de miel liquide 30ml de mélasse 20ml d’acide humiques et fluvic Mettre tous les ingrédients (sauf la mélasse ,l’acide h/f et le miel) dans un filtre 400micron, le placer dans un seau avec de l’eau (10litres). Rajoutez le miel et 10ml de mélasse Y mettre un micro bulleur alimenter sur une pompe à air et faire oxygéné le mélange pendant 24h. Rajout de 10ml de mélasse après 12h le début de la mise en route de la pompe. A la fin des 24h rajoutez le restant de mélasse et d’acide h/f, mettez y en plus 10litres d’eau au mélange. Reste plus qu’à arroser! j’y ai incorporé 7litre de mélange La veille j’ai préparé le pot à l’arrosage avec 500ml d’eau et 2gr de Bacillus IT35 Amyloliquefaciens X5 Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens : rhyzosphère, probiotiques. Aspersion et arrosage. Utilisable pour toutes cultures. La bactérie Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens se fixe dans la rhizosphère en se nourrissant des exsudats racinaires. En contrepartie, elle stimule la croissance racinaire en sécrétant des métabolites de croissance et solubilise le phosphore en sécrétant des phytases (enzymes). Effet probiotique consistant en l’utilisation de micro-organismes bénéfiques pour la nutrition et la santé des plantes. La spiruline, le plus riche et le plus complet des amendements organiques La Spiruline est une algue aquatique connue comme complément alimentaire, la Spiruline est aussi un amendement organique et écologique très complet. D'une grande qualité nutritive, elle apporte à vos plantes une quantité de nutriments, dont l'azote, phosphore, potassium, minéraux, acides aminés, vitamines, chlorophylle et protéine. Le charbon végétal actif est capable d’absorber jusqu’à cinq fois son poids propre en eau ainsi que les éléments nutritifs qui s’y trouvent. Il joue ainsi le rôle de catalyseur et d'amplificateur pour les fertilisants traditionnels, qu'ils soient d'origine organique ou minérale. Ce pourquoi il est idéal pour activer un sol et pour les thés de compost oxygénés. Le charbon végétal améliore la diffusion et la disponibilité des éléments nutritifs dans le sol et offre des conditions propices au développement des micro-organismes. Le Biochar peut être introduit dans une grande variété de sols. Il est particulièrement efficace dans les sols pauvres, difficiles et acides. Pour faire agir rapidement et efficacement sa capacité d’amendement, le charbon végétal est enrichi et biologiquement activé avec des micro-organismes. Le Biochar se comporte ainsi comme un structurateur et un activateur dans le but de valoriser les sols. Composition : • Charbon végétal actif 31%
• Matière organique 33%
• Matière sèche 75%
• C/N : 17
• PH : 7,2
• Azote (N) : 2,1 % dont 1,2 % azote organique
• Phosphore (P205) : 0,74%
• Potassium (K20) : 1,18%
• Calcium (Ca) : 6,8%
• Magnésium (MgO) : 0,65% Le pollen est l'ingrédient de base de la fabrication du miel par les abeilles. Riche en vitamines et minéraux, il est qualifié « d'aliment parfait », y compris pour les plantes ! Les zéolithes sont des roches cristallines, présentant des capacités d'adsorption particulièrement importantes vis à vis des polluants que l'on rencontre dans l'eau et dans certains liquides, ainsi que dans l'air et les gaz. Elles sont extrêmement poreuses comme les charbons activés et elles peuvent être chargées électriquement pour opérer comme des échangeurs d'ions. La zéolithe est un produit naturel qui respecte notre environnement. Utilisé dans le milieu industriel depuis de longues années déjà, ce minerai aux propriétés filtrantes particulières commence à se vulgariser dans le domaine de la piscine privée, de l'aquariophilie, des bassins d'agrément, de la récupération des eaux de pluie, ou encore de la culture des bonsaïs et autres plantations diverses par exemple... 4 points techniques majeurs : - Grâce à leur propriété hydrophile, les zéolithes peuvent adsorber l'eau jusqu'à 30% de leur poids total et sans aucune variation de volume : pas de gonflement en présence d'eau ni de craquement en cas de déshydratation comme certaines argiles. Les zéolithes sont d'ailleurs de puissants agents anti-mottant (anti-agglomérant). Cette propriété est très appréciée dans le cas des terrains de golf et autres aires de jeux. - Les zéolithes ne captent pas l'eau de façon irréversible, elles se comportent comme une réserve au voisinage des racines. Celles-ci peuvent capter l'eau en fonction de leur besoin. Les zéolithes permettent ainsi de réduire les besoins d'arrosage jusqu'à 35 %. - Une zéolithe se comporte comme une "Zone de Stockage" qui retient l'azote et les éléments minéraux nutritifs au voisinage des racines et les relâche lentement en fonction des besoins de la plante. Cela se traduit par une croissance harmonieuse mais rapide du végétal. - La capacité d'adsorption et l'énorme rapport surface/volume des zéolithes, vont permettre à la fois la rétention de la solution du sol et une bonne oxygénation au voisinage du système racinaire. Les zéolithes favorisent donc l'organisation biologique des sols en contribuant au développement de la micropopulation. L'apport en nutriments (N, P, K) est réduit de 20 à 25 %. Ces derniers, adsorbés par la zéolithe, sont beaucoup moins sensibles au lessivage et à l'évaporation. Composition minéralogique : * Chabasite 70 % * Phillipsite 2 % * Feldspath 5 % * Augite 3 % * Illite - Mica 2% Analyse atomique: * Sio2 52 % * AL2o3 17 % * CaO 5,7 % * K2O 6,1 % * MgO 2 %, * Na2O 0,6 % * Fe2O3 3,6 % Amendement calcaire, dolomie et gypse avec préparation microbienne à base de Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens IT45 et Saccharomyces cerevisiae LYCC6420 Formulation : micro granulés (1 – 1,6 mm) à base de rhizobactéries favorisant la croissance des plantes qui se multiplient et colonisent rapidement la zone des racines, et de levures Saccharomyces cerevisiae souche LYCC ayant un effet probiotique. Les PGPR produisent des enzymes qui solubilisent le phosphore à partir de complexes inorganiques et organiques dans le sol et stimulent la croissance des racines efficaces augmentant ainsi la zone d'interception des éléments nutritifs. Les levures LYCC permettent une occupation de la rhizosphère par une flore bénéfique. Composition :
• Matière sèche : 96,8%
• Matière organique : 91,5%
• N total : 6,6% dont N soluble dans l'eau 0,17%
• P total : 2%
• K total : 1,7% Micro-granulés : 
• Oxyde de calcium (CaO) total : 30%
• Oxyde de magnesium (MgO) total : 7%
• Anhydride sulfurique (SO3) : 13% La levure de bière est une matière vivante qui permet un meilleur fermentation pour les thés de compost oxygénés notamment conseillé pour accompagner les croissances ou apporter un gros coup de pousse pendant la floraisons. La levure stimule la vie des sols également à l'arrosage direct en apportant tout aussi bien que dans le TCO sa population l'espèce micro-bactérienne positive pour votre sols ainsi que des oligo-éléments et diverse vitamines. Composition : • 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), • 2,3% (P205) • 1,6% (K20) • 35% de MO • C/N : 8. PH : 8,4. Sous forme de poudre mouillable. Il contient des spores du champignon mycorhizien Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 avec des levures inactivées spécifiques. 2000 spores/gramme d’endomycorhize Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 et Saccharomyces Cerevisiae LYC6420 inactivée. Se connecte efficacement au système racinaire et forme un vaste réseau souterrain de filaments, qui agissent comme des extensions pour atteindre les nutriments et l’eau au-delà de la rhizosphère Composition : • Poudre contenant 2000 spores/g. d’endomycorhizes Rhizophagus irregularis La Consoude (Symphytum Officinale) est une plante présentant de nombreuses propriétés. Particulièrement riche en Potassium (K) organique, la consoude est une alliée idéale pour les périodes de floraison. La consoude a tout pour plaire : riche en vitamine B12, elle agira également comme stimulateur racinaire, mais aussi comme biostimulant cellulaire, grâce aux alcaloïdes, aux allantoïnes et jusqu'à 30% de protéine ! 100% déjection de vers de ténébrions.
Très riche en microorganismes, le guano de vers de farine est une matière directement composté par les vers. En effet, c'est bien la digestion de matières végétales par des larves, insectes ou autres arthropodes qui valident le processus de compostage, que ce soit en zone de production de cultures d'insectes, pour le compost maison ou la dégradation de litière forestière. Les bactéries et autres champignons obtenus grâce au système digestif de nos vers, permettent la dégradation accélérée des éléments nutritifs dans vos supersoils, et les symbioses permettant l'assimilation des éléments nutritifs. Cette bio-activation intense mettra dans vos sols, à la disposition de vos plantes, un panel tellement varié de nutriments frais qu'il nous est aujourd'hui technologiquement impossible de pouvoir tous les nommer et de les compter. Le guano de vers de farine fournit une grande polyvalence. Très équilibré, il s'utilise en entretien ou en apport ciblé seul ou en complément de d'autres amendements ou fertilisants organiques. Il agit comme un puissant activateur de sol et/ou de substrat. Cendre coque de ricin NPK 0,1-18,6-16,5. 0,1% (N-Azote), 18,6% (P205-Phosphore), 16,5% (K2O-Potasse), 11,7%(Ca0), 9,1 (Mg0) - Origine : Inde ACTION SOL • rend rapidement accessible au sol Phosphore, Potasse, Magnésium et Calcium. ACTION PLANTE • Apport aux stades agronomiques propices. • Produit riche en éléments fertilisants : combinaison NPK 35%. • Régularité de l’apport, milieu et fin de floraison. . Favorise la sénescence. Analyse chimique : • NPK 0,1-18,6-16,5 • N-Azote 0.1% • P205-Phosphore 18,6% • K2O-Potasse 16,5% • CaO-Calcium 11,7% • MgO-Magnésium 9,1% Ortie bio micronisée Stimule la vie du sol et la végétation. Composition : • 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), • 2,3% (P205) • 1,6% (K20) • 35% de MO • C/N : 8. PH : 8,4 KELP poudre
ascophyllum nodosum
- amendement sol Croissance et floraison - Meilleure germination - Meilleur développement racinaire Meilleure assimilation - Résistance aux stress osmotiques - Augmente la production de chlorophylle = plantes plus vertes = lumière mieux captée - Lutte contre le stress osmotique - Développement des Micro-Organismes dans le sol – Riche en vitamines, fer, iode, oligo-éléments, hormones de croissance auxines et cytokinines - Idéal en épandage et pour les thés de compost oxygénés. Important : notre Kelp est un goémon noir mais il n'est pas le varech bien moins fertile de la même famille qui est l'algue qui pullule et pollue la Bretagne, notre algue pousse uniquement à plus de 50 mètres de fond dans les grands courants froids au large de la Norvège.

Going to start a few grows to get a supply train going. Once I do these 4 seed, all I have to do is grow 2 plants at once and I will never have to buy again.