So I had absolutely no ill effect on the plants at at all moving from the green buzz veg feed too the house & garden soil a&b feeds, I did not even given them a water only inbetween the two, I also went straight in with 50% the recommended dose stated on the house & Gardens bottles this switched happened the day before week 5 none showed any signed of defects or deficiency intact they exploded into life over night and then every day after that, I have been using the green buzz fast buds as a folar spry appied too the leaves of the early flower formation after lights out, They seemed too love that too and I also kept the note roots going in, I also started too apply C-RESULT at the fullbl dose stated on the bottle, The plants live this stuff if you have not tried it do it, I am not sponcered by c-result I was given this by my local grow store, It brings all the nutrients straight too the roots it states, All I know is this stuff triggers the plants too suck the pots dry in 24 hours, So make sure you have your feed bucket fully in order before adding this stuff as a mistake here could cost you, But get it right and in 24 hours these little autos doubled in size, It states too used week one of flower only and smells like a sewer lol I have today day one of week 6 Started too add house & garden Bud XL at half strength too increase next week and also I added there top shooter at 1ml per liter of water as 7 as I plan too removed all chemicals exactly as of day 1 of week 7 leaving me week 9 clean, I am training all the shooting tips too my scrog netting the best I can due too very limited space in the grow space, And am praying for some of the promised purple leaves on the fast buds Web site, I has on lemon pie this round that is 2 weeks behind the rest due too non germination but I am wondering if a staggered planting each plant exactly one week behind each other would give me a little more canapé space and the treat of harvesting a plant every week, Using the skyline 1000 only I did not too any of these autos 2 x strawberry cheese cake 2 x lemon pie 4 x fyah Sounds like a plan too me, Thanks for reading

Der Harvest war erfolgreich, alle bis zum maximalen Ende stehen lassen. Alles gleichzeitig zu ernten war ein bisschen unentspannt, da der Indoorgrow gleichzeitig zum trocknen hängt! Dennoch mega glücklich!!! Jetzt beginnt das Aushärten, die meisten Behälter sind zwischen 67-73% bleiben aber noch 1-2Tage offen.☮️

Flower4, día 4 desde que comenzó la floración, se regaron con 1.8 EC y pH 6.2, con los nutrientes puestos en la descripción, no me tienen muy convencido pero creo que van mejorando. Flower9, defoliación y riego, está vez se agregó al riego Bud Candy, el cual seguirá siendo usado en toda la fase de floración. Flower13, riego 2.0 EC y pH 6.2, se agregó Voodoo Juice, Tarantula y Piranha al agua de riego.

I’m going to leave the seedlings in the small brown pots until their 1st node and then I’ll transfer them into bigger plastic 3.5gal pots with 80/20 soil to perlite potting mix. One Dosidos is looking a bit behind and the one with the weird leaves ended up catching up to the Northern Lights, maybe even growing faster than it. All Dosidos’ ended up dying but one and I’m sure it’s on the way out. Northern Lights has had no issues and growing perfect.

So everything is going well now. She is all healthy and stron. Got her in first week of flower. Only gave her plain water this week. I added the Fluoresent to add some 6500k spectrum to my hps. It really helps and looks good. I got rid of the mini scrog. And decided to go allong with the LST because I wont be able to fill a SCROG.

Day 83: After being in the dark for like 4-7 days, they where ready to harvest. All plants getting cut by the machine, big buds are cut by hand. I never weight wet buds because that doesnt make any sence. I will update soon on how much it is dry weight. My friend helped me with the harvest since it takes many hours of work. I have many buds that are as big or bigger as my hand. Quallity so far looks promising even thought there are shitty buds as well, but thats normal and oke. They have been cut freshly so I won't lose much weight when cutting. This will happen when cutting dry buds. The remaining small leafs on the wet buds will dry in with the buds and will be barely visible. More info soon.

Hello my friends 👨‍🌾👩‍🌾, Week was good, The plants are happy in the new pot. I vaporise water on the leaves each days. I continue my training for the scrog. And did a big defoliation. Good news! The plants Start to have the same size. Except the #3, but maybe with the stretch I'll can work on it. I'll probably do a last defoliation next week. 💦 I give water each 2 or 3 days 0.95 l/plant Water + Rhizo + Terra vega Water + Rhizo + Cannazym Water + Rhizo PH@6 Lamp @90% Probably one more last veg week, I've already removed 2 hours, I'm now 18/6, I'll removed again during the next week Sorry my friends, in late, I've totally forgot to publish this week 🤪🤪💨💨 Thanks community for follow, likes, comments, always a pleasure 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾❤️🌲 See you next week 👊👊 Mars Hydro - TS 1000 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ts-1000-led-grow-light Mars Hydro - FC3000 https://www.mars-hydro.com/fc-3000-samsung-lm301b-led-grow-light Mars Hydro - SP3000 https://www.mars-hydro.com/sp-3000-samsung-lm301b-greenhouse-led-grow-light The High Chameleon - Vannila T https://www.thehighchameleon.com/shop/vanilla-t-5

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Home from vacation and this girl is poppin ✌️🌱✌️

Runtz was choped and wet trimmed on day 120, 74 days after switching to 12/12. Was an quite easy trim job, few leafs and a lot of big and very dense nuggets. Super sticky with a beautiful smell. Just love her! Thank you @Zamnesia and @Plagron for hosting this contest! It really was a blast and had so much fun with the community. So many wonderful plants and great pictures – will always remember this as a great time with a good spirit 💚💚💚 Very grateful to have won the Eternity grow cup 2025 with this diary. Would love to show off the prices, but can't add any pictures to this week – so you will find them in the last week :)

Been growing for a while but I need to keep track of things better. One plant has some browning leaves so I’ll research that this week. Week 6 They’re doing well for the most part. Pistols coming in. They love high ppm and drink plenty.

Coming into the final week. Like the last few weeks not much growth is going on. eVE smells great and is sticky to the touch. Her trichs are milky and most the pistils are orange. The bud nodes were great and the plant color is still beautiful. BUT she need got the weight on. It seems like after week 12 that she quit growing bud. My main culprit was water that was too warm at times and my roots looked tannish instead of white. Why can't I grow good roots? Will let her finish out the week and then harvest her.

Extreme defoliation

Gelato x GMO is taking off in the 15 gallon pot, showing rapid growth every day. The Blue MOBs seem to have stopped growing vertically in the 5 gallon buckets and are now filling out existing branches while they all reach for the sun. The 15 gallon Blue MOB seems to still be growing in height as well as filling out existing branches. Heavy rain has been persistent with few days of direct sunlight yet plants are still growing. Massachusetts ended up receiving the tail end of a big storm so I have not had to water them the entire week, the soil has stayed damp and kept the plants hydrated

Opened them both up and trimmed up some lower branches and the likes. Defoliation aswell on some leaves. Flower stretch under way ! Still having issues with one not absorbing what she needs was advised to up the ph in autopot res to 5.8 6.0 ph so have done so to see if that helps ! All in all looking good

Day 35 - few pics and vids..... everything going along nicely 👍 This is a pretty big update, so i'll add to it over the next few days, as i finish building it all.... i'm building these 2 x SS haze, the full tent, just finishing up the setup..... trimming them, changing solutions to 12/12 and flower..... changed the exhaust fan and filter setup to the better outside the tent method.... and installed 12v CPU computer fan, lol ("alta9" fits in 4in ducting perfectly), drops wattage on extractor fan.... 10w tops... got a few kg of active carbon and making/replacing the carbon filter .... i'll add afew vids of the new setup in afew days... Day 36 - few pics/vid of new tent setup...... "alta 9" fan :) post tomorrow after i finish trimmin and settin up night mode etc...... and into tomorrow we go, lol ... Day 37.... slowly getting there..... little bit more to go... this should make things abit more interesting..... right tank (short babie) has : 19 lts of tap water @18oC + 150 ml -dutch master one gold FLOWER.... 6.4 PH - 1400 PPM left tank has : 19 lts of tap water @18oC + 50 ml of elements a and 50ml of b and 10 ml of nitro and 20ml of Crystalic (molasses/pot) .... 6.5 PH - 1200 PPM more pics / vids of the finished tent setup.... roots, transfer, etc... Day 37 is alot of vids of the clean and change to flower..... edit - day after build noticed left tank (nutrifield) not enough bubbles..... pulled out the 4 air pump and swapped to the 2 x original oxipumps... much better, also to fix the problem with ph goin high, and bubbles not stirin the mix, was to add another 10ml of crystallic and another 5ml of nitro... then pumped both tanks with ph down and set em to 5.8-6.2 - both plants have fully recovered from the big trim, and bounced back within 12-24hrs, post pics/vid in abit..... Day 39 - made a freaky video... was curious about what the plants would see looking up at the lights... the lights and buzzing of air compressors and bubbling tank water, and dazzling lights turned out pretty cool in vid editor, was in selfie mode.... and final vid of the bounceback from trim :) 👍😎

Hola! 22/03/23 - Llevamos 60 días desde que empezamos a germinar las semillas, estamos en la 3ª semana de floración. He tenido que subir la luminaria por que las plantas han pegado estirón y se han plantado a menos de 10cm del led. He instalado la malla scrog por la parte media de la planta para sujetar las ramas y en poco tiempo pondré una segunda malla para sujetar las partes altas. A partir de aquí mi prioridad es no tocarlas para no estresarlas de ninguna manera. Solo buenos riegos, buenas temperaturas y música.