I’m at the home stretch now. Two weeks till harvest. This grow has flown by! The buds are really swelling. They don’t yet look as big as some of the clusters on the last harvest. But those were all untrained and had way fewer bud sites. The difference this time is there are way more buds. PH is now good too. Soil is 6.5-7.0 in most tests. I’ve just given the final feed. From now on I’m just flushing them with PH adjusted water. The Biobizz nutes are PH neutral. I suspect micro organisms in the soil are raising the PH with their waste. I’ll always add PH- to the feed from now on. There are rusty spots appearing on some of the leaves of the most stretched plant. Possibly low in magnesium. I’ve feed with calmag. The affected leaves were all close to one of the lights though. Maybe that has something to do with it? Temps and humidity are bang on. The rig in the tent is keeping the temps in the high 20s. Outside the tent it is sometimes dropping into the high teens. The humidity in the tent is around 50%. About 10-15% down on the outside room. I’m really pleased with the impact of training Seems to have had on the plants. The LST, topping and super cropping has definitely had an impact. Even with autos. Ok. So one plant stalled. It was the weakest plant, was late and was not planted in the centre of the pot. I should have LSTed only. But I topped it. Pushed it too far. I’ve learnt a massive amount on this grow.

Are they going into flower? There is not many signs of that because i have a small leak of light between them but will see 🤞

Day 43 – The Sweet Spot ​Current Status: We’re sitting at day 43 of flower, and things are looking absolutely dialed in. The ladies are packing on some serious weight and the canopy is sitting perfect. ​Plant Condition: ​Caramba: She’s leading the pack, showing some nice milky trichomes under the scope. Definitely entering the final stretch and starting to stack some serious density. ​Nebula: Still pushing hard, building up those frost-covered calyxes. She’s a bit more patient but looking incredibly healthy. ​Care & Maintenance: ​Feeding: Keeping them strictly on the established nutrient schedule – Bio-Heaven, Bio-Bloom, Top-Max, and Green Sensation. Everything is dialed in, and they are drinking it up with zero signs of nute burn or lockout. ​Defoliation: Sticking to the routine of plucking the occasional old, fading, or yellowing fan leaf to keep the airflow tight and ensuring the lower bud sites get their share of the light. ​The "Terpene Blast": Man, let me tell you – there is no better feeling than popping that tent door open. As soon as I crack it, this absolute wall of pure, dank goodness hits me straight in the face. It’s that loud, mouth-watering aroma that tells you you’ve done it right. I absolutely love that moment; it’s exactly why we do this. ​Next Steps: Watching those trichomes like a hawk. Caramba is getting ready for the final flush soon, while Nebula gets a bit more runway to finish strong. ​Stay frosty!

harvest time. 7 plants 1861gr. wet. impressive strong and healthy strain.easy to grow. I'm very happy.

So many new nodes coming in after LST and topping, starting to become a sea of leaves. I am experimenting on all 4 with different training types in order to see which gives me the best result in my set up. The largest I gave LST and topped the 6th node, gave one only LST, one with only topping, and one with no training. Getting pretty hyped on what’s still to come

Tea once a week, ;))))

Very happy with 100% germination rate! They all popped within 36h then put into 70% happy frog soil 30% perlite

Ready for Harvest ❤️🍇🌲🍆🌺🌞

This big beautiful girl Purple Goat Cheese from Goat Genetics has been such an amazing grow so far she is so stinky an sticky an I love it smelling of straight sourness she is getting her last week of nutrients before flush an then harvest an I can't wait

The nighttime VPD does not need to mirror the daytime VPD. Daytime VPD dictates the pull of water and nutrients, while nighttime VPD acts mostly as a prevention tool. A high nighttime VPD increases the risk of the leaf temperature dropping below the dew point, which can trigger bud rot and powdery mildew. Switched down to 12's hours of light mid-week, changed spectrum, increased light intensity from 840umol up to 1150umol at current height. Overnight from 800ppm to 1500ppm, morning compensation point (microorganisms) 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, once the apical dominance is broken. Measuring a plant's overnight CO2 emissions provides an accurate estimate of its dark respiration rate. Because photosynthesis stops in the dark, you are isolating the respiration process, which allows you to gauge how much stored energy (glucose) the plant has consumed and estimate the scale of oxidative phosphorylation. Oxidative phosphorylation is the final stage of respiration that generates the bulk of the plant's ATP (90%) and relies directly on the oxidation of these respiratory substrates NADH and FADH2 along with the consumption of oxygen. From a thermodynamic standpoint. Growth is an energy-capturing process, and the rate of that growth is bound by the available free energy (Gibbs free energy) and the First Law of Thermodynamics. While the ceiling or upper limit is dictated by free energy (such as photosynthetically active radiation), the actual amount of growth relies on how the plant balances that energy with other limiting factors. These are often described as the nine cardinal parameters of plant growth. 4 Above, 5 Below. If any one of the 9 becomes bottlenecked, the entire plant's cycle is restricted. Operating an 80F+ environment at night to force rapid carbon conversion comes with major drawbacks, as the biochemical processes work differently than the deductive logic suggests. While raising nighttime temperatures to 80F indeed accelerates respiration and speeds up the conversion of captured sugars (sink activity), doing so also radically increases the plant's overall metabolic baseline. If the plant's metabolic rate is artificially forced too high via heat, it can actually "burn" through more energy than it managed to assimilate during the day. This leads to carbohydrate starvation, stretching, and a net loss in final biomass yield. 400 ppm is near the standard ambient level; the plant's stomatal intake is the primary limiting factor, not the dark-reaction enzymes. To push 45 DLI without burning out the plant. Trying to force the conversion of a massive daylight DLI in a compressed time frame (12 hours) becomes highly inefficient because the Rubisco enzyme simply hits a saturation limit. To successfully convert a 45 DLI into dense, productive mass, the ambient CO2 generally needs to be elevated to the 1000 to 1200ppm range. This creates a steeper concentration gradient, driving the stomata to inhale CO2 fast enough to match the high photon energy. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light) so that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flowering, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework, it helps a lot nonetheless. Not saying anyone should not defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. One barely needs to defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localised growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, a lot harder to achieve metabolically at ambient 75F than at say 86F Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different from what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximise their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognised biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited, and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation from being signalled. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This can prevent triggering N starvation from having its normal impact. Manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option.

The plant has started active flowering, feels good 🐏💚

The plants look very healthy and are getting bigger and bigger, so a scrog net has now been stretched out and a few large sail leaves removed. An ac infinity humidifier has been installed and the vpd is now being kept at around 1.2-1.3. Flowering day: 13

They are growing nicely, i forgot to upload for some time and now they are finally fully flowering, i pretty much fertilze them with everything.

La floración sigue su curso y nos sigue regalando colorido y aroma para nuestros sentidos. El contratiempo con las pequeñas orugas solucionado y parece que el proceso sigue "viento en popa y a toda vela" 🌬️🌿 Los pistilos han inundando toda la planta y siguen aumentando su tamaño. Además, algunos pistilos van adquiriendo un tono ámbar. Las flores continúan oscureciendo, las hojas y sus tallos ya muestran un claro color rojizo/púrpura que tiende rosáceo con la luz directa. 🌿 El tallo tiene un tamaño y consistencia considerable, alcanzando una los 42cm y la otra 50cm. Se perciben bastante mejor los aromas de las floración. Seguimos aumentamos la cantidad de agua, progresivamente, según van pidiendo/necesitando las plantas. Se están amarilleando parte de las hojas inferiores 🍁 Si no me fallan los cálculos, se debe a la falta de nitrógeno pero no le añadiré porque ya debe está en las últimas semanas 🤞😅 Sigo intentando no utilizar ningún tipo de "ayuda extra", salvo la tierra enriquecida de BioBizz All-Mix donde están plantadas. Seguimos con el agua mineral, luz solar, mucha paciencia y mucho amor!🤞😍 Aunque para controlar la aparición de pequeñas orugas he añadido: 20g de tierra de diatomea (Diatical de TRABE), directamente sobre el sustrato (1-2 veces/mes y se puede aplicar en cualquier momento del cultivo). 50ml de Super Kukulus (fitofortificante ecológico)/1 litro de agua para riego foliar, tanto en el anverso como en el reverso de las hojas (2-3 veces/sem y se puede aplicar en cualquier momento del cultivo has 2 días antes de la cosecha)... Y lo mejor es que FUNCIONA! 💪😅

I'm not applying any type of training to this lady,she has performed a big stretch in her first week of flower,looks absolutely gorgeous,sometime she es tress a little with heat. However the super soil she's living in and the lactobacillus liquid I make homemade is helping her so much,it's a pleasure to see her every morning

Day 69 (March 6th) Just gave everyone their last watering. I’m going to harvest and wash everything tomorrow night on day 70. I‘m not going to do that whole 48 hours of darkness thing because I didn’t see a difference last time I did it. In fact, it made my plant under watered before drying which caused it to dry too fast. Slurricane and cheese will be washed with h2o2 and the rest will just be rinsed off in warm RO water and hung up. Before and after washing I’m going to go over each branch with a flashlight and make sure there is no dog hair or debris in or on the buds. I will be drying in my spare bathroom (that no one uses!) from hangers. Aiming to keep it around 60-62F and 50-60 RH. Hoping for that 10-12 day dry. I wanted to do a full plant hang but the tent got pretty dirty and I would feel more comfortable just cutting and rinsing everything off branch by branch. I’m going to try my best to keep the full plant intact. Got my humidifier hooked up and running RO water because with tap water it deposits calcium and lime all over the buds and walls. For air flow I’m just indirectly running a small usb fan. I’m not worried about air flow in the bathroom honestly. It stays nice and breezy down there anyway. Got the food grade peroxide and RO water to wash up the slurricane and cheese. Everything except for the cheese and garlic#1 is looking more than done. Trichomes all look pretty well done. Some of them have even burst open. Smells are all super ripe and mature too. Can’t wait to smell each individually in jars. Next week I will recap what went wrong and what I will do differently next time to keep it from happening again. (Day 70F) Just got everything chopped, washed and hanging. The vast majority of the PM was washed out but I can still see very small amounts. When they dry out I can shake the branches a bit to get the rest off. At very least it’s sterile now. There is no question I lost some potency while washing but the amount is negligible for a much cleaner product. I could see lots of dirt and other debris float to the surface of the water after being washed. And no those are not trichomes, those sink to the bottom. I could put that nasty water through a bubble bag and wouldn’t get all that much. Although it probably does remove a lot of the actual trichomes heads. I’ll have to check with the microscope. Everything is rigged up for a nice slow dry. Temp is sitting at 64 and RH is at a nice 60%.

Olá growers! Semana 2 começando com muito estudo e aprendizado. DAY 8 Tudo normal no grow, com exceção da semente COP que ainda não germinou. DAY 9 As folhas crescem muito bem 🌱 “Da babies” estão cheias de saúde. Coloquei a semente COP para tomar um banho de sol a 27º, proporcionando calor e umidade. O resultado foi o esperado: a COP germinou! Nada como a própria natureza ☀️ DAY 10 A família cresceu… agora são 5 meninas no grow box. NOTAS 📝 ✅ A semente de Critical germinou com muita facilidade. ⚠️ A semente de COP teve muita dificuldade em germinar. DAY 11 Todo mundo saudável. C1 e C2 crescem muito bem. COP, C3 e C4 nascendo a plantula. 💡25%☀️18h🌑6h 🌡️min 21º max 25º 💧min 70% max 80% DAY 12 C1 e C2 com 7 dias de vida serão transplantadas hoje, antes de dormir, para pote de 3 litros. COP, C3 e C4 entram no 2° dia de mudas. DAY 13 C1 e C2 reagiram muito bem ao transplante para o pote maior (3L). O transplante foi realizado próximo a hora de desligar a luz, para as plantas conseguirem se recuperar melhor. DAY 14 Encerrando a 2ª semana do cultivo. Hoje liguei o ventilador para fortalecer o caule das meninas e a temperatura está 2°C mais alta.