Day 36 - Checked PPM 400. Plant is wide and bushy. Day 37 - Plant is 28 inches tall and 10 inches from the light. Day 38 - Plant is 29 inches tall. Root system is almost maxed out for 5 gallon bucket. Checked PPM 700. Built a new light stand/grow area. Now bigger then 4 by 4 foot area. Day 39 - Started a new bucket of water and nutes. Added 20 mL of CalMag Micro Grow and Bloom. Added 10 mL of each additive. I didnt add the rooting additives Tarantula Piranha and Voodoo Juice. PPM is 1,600. Plant is 32 inches tall. Different looking growth forming. Day 42 - Checked PPM 1,520. Added RO water. PPM is 640. Added 10 mL of CalMag Micro Grow and Bloom. Added 5 mL of each additive. PPM is 1,300. Plant is 34 inches tall. Noticeable bud development started.

100% success on the germination, with the 2 out of 2 seeds germinated, let's grow!! 👨‍🌾💯💚

Week 3 💨🔥 4 out of 5 topped 👌 Waiting on 1 to kick on abit before topping or anything, I may just let her do its own thing and train the other 4 but well see Now we wait for some more growth on the nodes and then begin some LST 👽🏆

🙌12/12 to bloom.🙌 I changed the light cycle last week because I was tired of the vegetation phase. and a lil bit lazy w and upload - sorry! Some side shoots were removed, then I let them rest for a while (3 days) before switching to 12/12. I can still see the (N) surplus inside my substrate, this will NEVER EVER HAPPEN AGAIN💀 we'll see how this affects flowering 😎 Due to the inner substrate of cheap soil, which has a poor NPK value, I now perhaps have a construction site that can be worked on. The plants continue to look very good, except for the (N) surplus and a little (K) blockage which I can remedy this with some Epsom salts.

13.06. Wedding Cake 1# Day 49# The plant is at the end of the seventh week, it is making excellent progress. I don't want to spoil it and speak in advance, but I think she will be a monster, but just let her be healthy! Wedding Cake 2# Day 43# Unlike the first one, this one has only entered the seventh week, it is in 3 times smaller pot and the soil is not even close to the quality like in the first one, so I am satisfied with the progress of the second one as well! 5 nights ago there was a strong storm, the morning after the storm when I came to the site, I found some plants crooked, some normal, but there were no broken ones, thank God, but they were very stressed and what you can see in the pictures appeared on the leaves, some leaves were crispy at the edges, but still green, mostly shoots before the newest ones. I haven't had this problem before, I researched a bit on the internet and came to the conclusion that the wind burned them, and I also turned to GW for an opinion, two characters confirmed my opinion. Two days later I noticed that the matter was getting worse and that it was spreading, which worried me, so I contacted GW again for an opinion. Some told me that it was mold, some that it was an infection, disease and so on, mostly guesswork, but no one specifically told me what was certain, so I decided on nim oil, and whatever it is, I guess the problem should be solved. According to some leaves, I would say that insects might be the problem, but I really don't know, I haven't had similar problems before. I regulate the ph of the plants, I still don't feed them, there is food in the ground for another week, except for the fact that I added cal-mag after that storm when I watered them. I want to say that the plants are certainly not locked, and the heat is not yet so high that this would happen from the same, the more the temperatures have dropped and now it is perfect. Since transplanting, I have watered the plants only 2 times. Yesterday morning they were topped for the second time, only the main branches, I will do the next topping of the side branches. Last night I sprayed the plants with neem oil and already today the problem seems to be going away, if I tripped at least it doesn't spread further, that's for sure. I didn't mix the oil very well, I didn't add any soap or anything like that because I wouldn't really spray the plants with any chemicals, and on some of the leaves on one or two plants there is that thick, brownish liquid, so I hope it won't hurt them, I noticed that today during the day, I couldn't see it at night. I still don't know what the problem is, but my guess is still that the wind burned them or some insects. Speaking of insects, I think I noticed thrips on one plant on the underside of the leaf, so in addition to the neem oil I already gave, I also ordered SMC, so I will spray that at least once a week while they are still young. Happy Growing and Stay High!!!

Day 64.. Just truckin along.. Noticed some nute burn on the leaf tips.. So im going back down to 1000ppm.. Plus the runoff was coming out at like 1700ppm at times.. Even after feed, water, water.. Maybe its just too much for a cup grow also.. Since the water is drunk up so quickly.. Im guessing all the salts are being left behind in the medium.. Plant is still healthy asf.. Calyxes should be fattening up pretty soon! Wish I knew what strain this was.. Ugh... Day 65.. Judging by the calyxes that have already swollen up.. These are gonna be some very nice, dense nugs.. Trichomes everywhere.. Seems like it may not be ready when they say Bloody Skunks are normally ready.. More like a sativa.. I really wish I would have got what I paid for.. For all I know this could be some CBD strain.. Ugh.. Still gonna grow it out and see what happens.. "You get what you get and you don't throw a fit" lol... ... Later... I been watering 2 - 3 times daily.. That's 1 negative thing about growing in cups.. This is my 3rd or 4th I've grown in a cup.. I'm impressed.. Although I do see it hurting yield slightly.. I guess we will see with what comes of this grow... Day 66.. Ok.. So maybe this is a Bloody Skunk... The leaves are starting to show purple.. The stems are deep dark purple in many spots.. Guess that different phenos can sometimes come out looking the exact opposite.. Still learning.. Whoops 😆 ... Later... She's chuggin water like crazy.. It has been pretty warm in the tent lately.. Hard to keep it down but 82F - 84F at the most.. But it sometimes will sit that high.. It has hit 86F - 88F.. I use 2 AcuRite Temp and Humidity Monitors.. One on top of the light and second just randomly placed in the corner on the pole about canopy height but both read only 1F difference. There are some leaves turning slightly purple.. Honestly, I think this light has been burning the tops.. Not very bad.. But I noticed alot of yellowing on my WW at the tops.. And just got worse toward the end.. And a little foxtailing as well, I think.. But I am seeing slight yellowing on the top leaves of this one.. Not bad.. But I do see it slightly.. Other than that.. And the abuse I have put her through.. She is happy and healthy asf.. Still not for sure but this very well may be a damn Bloody Skunk.. Let's see what happens... Day 68.. Just another day flowering.. Pistils are still white as can be.. Calyxes are still tiny but covered in trichomes.. The calyxes should start fattening up... Aaaany day now lol.. Seems like she's gonna be a long flowering girlie.. I've watered with just CalMag the last 3 days but the runoff PPM is still reading 900-1000.. Not sure whats going on.. Guess I should do a major flush and re-feed some time today. I'm thinking of trying out organic dry amendments in coco in the future.. Seems pretty simple.. Just need to time everything right which shouldn't be too difficult.. But anyways.. Its been a good week for the girl.. Nothing like keeping your lady happy! ... Later... I used a whole liter of pHed water without CalMag to flush and mixed up a new batch of nutes. I have added some Floralicious Plus to the mix also.. I'll note that on next weeks page. I only use 5 drops per Liter.. Which is about .25mL as it says to use.. Should help the trichome and terpene production. To be completely honest.. I'm not sure when to add Floralicious Plus.. After adding CalMag?? I've just been adding it after everything.. In this order... Silica, CalMag, Micro, Grow/Bloom, Bloom Booster, Floralicious Plus.. I havent noticed any lockout or anything.. So I guess it's working lol.. But I would still like to know the order it goes in case something starts fucking up. Day 69.. Not sure what these marks are.. It's only on this 1 leaf.. Noticed it yesterday and today it has gotten a little worse.. W... T... F... When I got home from work the tent got up to 90F.. The leaves looked lifeless.. I watered and got the temps down to 85F and 2 hours later she perked back up.. Scared me for a sec.. She's all good now.

Vamos familia, hora de cosechar estas Biscotti de RoyalQueenSeeds. No veáis que pinta que tienen las flores están bien formadas y repletas de tricomas. Después de 70 días de floración obtengo estas flores tan increíbles que huelen pfff. Es una variedad un poco complicada de cultivar pero, que al final si da sus frutos. Bastante contento con este primer cultivo de la temporada de indoor. Dar las gracias a james por las genéticas dé RoyalQueenSeeds, y a todo el equipo de Agrobeta, que sin vosotros parte de estos proyectos no son posibles 🙏 Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Hasta aquí es todo , espero que lo disfrutéis, buenos humos 💨💨.

What a mission, finally I am at the end of my four cycle, she’s my last plant to be harvested, sadly she lost 60% of her bud, her main stem and a lot of brunches snapped 😭😭😭😭😭😭 off during heavy rains, I cannot believe it, it has been four months last I posted, 😂😂😂😂, I so sorry, rest assured she reached harvest and there is proof, what a journey… so many times I wanted to give up and uproot her, but look at her now, she’s the most potent strain in the 4th cycle, and trumps everyone with aroma, taste and high. Cannot wait to do it again, this time with mOre maturity and care. She gave me 63grams, though the scale says 67, the plastic I weighs 3 grams.

This week has been great half way threw the week i changed to the next feed part of canna nutrients as it seemed to be way fattening up! So dropped off the pk 13/14 and droped off some of the A+B as I more of the nitrogen and we are past that part mostly. It is some killer killer in there i mean wow even with my circulation fan cranked it stinks in my garage stuff is loud. Smells of sweet and stink kinda pungent like a maker or something chemical it's so strong. I have let some lady bugs go in there as I have seen some signs of spider mites and have done a few rounds of neem oil in the water as well for a soil drench has not progressed much really. The lady's seems to be happy and they are kinda a pretty accent to have in there i think having the living soul in there, Or many if u say! So sticky just stuck like glue wow! Can way see the transformation over the last week has been crazy! In live with coco, my assumption going in was like hydro. U get some killer frost buds but no size....WRONG the size with coco is lil behind organic but still massive the swelling comes in last few months so we're in it now. Stay up everyone!

One more week and we're done !

Sb1 - 386g wet

9/10: New week, pictures are worth thousands of words.. will have more to say later- 9/11: I waited to long to transplant them and they have root problems to some degree or another...too wet for too long. I transplanted both of them into 3 gallon pots and observed about 50% brownish roots on both of them. 😕 I powdered the planting holes with myco, tricho, and other goodness. I added two Mars Hydro 150w lights, and a 60w 6500k LED panel light since they are all spread out now. The average CCT is still a little over 4800k, even though the Mars are a little warmer color temp than the Viparspectras. 9/12: Between the root problems and the transplant, they looked horrible, so I sprayed them with BoomBoom Spray today and will do a good root drench tomorrow with BushDoctor Boomerang. They looked better by the end of day, but still have a ways to go to get back on track... 9/17: I fed them boomerang only twice this week, and also gave them kangaroots yesterday. One of them is still kinda droopy looking..hopefully she snaps out of it soon. I'll prolly flip to 13/11 with emerson effect in the next couple of days.

Both plants grew very differently. The organic grew like a normal indica based plant. Decent sized main cola that was surrounded by shorter side nodes that still had some pretty sized buds. She had an overall lovely structure. Took to LST like a champ. And was 1 of my most trouble free auto grows to date. She's a beginners delight. Her bounty was 69g on harvesting. And 3g in test I took last week. She grew to 58cm. Vegged out at 25 days, and took another 50 to flower. As I kept a steady temperature throughout their entire life(s), (especially pre flower) there was no unwanted stretching in all my plants. She was very compact allowing the light to reach every part of the plant, done some light lollipoppoing during and before pre flower, not much, as there was no need. She took a lovely natural shape, and with LST. It allowed me to put all buds into the light. And she gave me some seriously lovely bud. I've no doubt when I run them again in coco I'll get a much bigger yield. But 10☆ all the way. The Synthetic. She grew totally differently, she acted as though she was topped and grew all nodes pretty much the same size. Wasn't as dense as the organic but there was a lot of the bud was pretty much the same size buds. She never really grew beyond 42cm. She picked up a pigment mutation and was a little more demanding feeding this girl on Synthetic nutrients. Whereas the organic was apply powder twice to soil and then bioenhancer feeds (every 2 weeks). But, every week she got a low ppm feed never exceeding 700ppm (the Synthetic). Learning to grow more with less nutrients.. gave no trouble really. Had no hard defs/toxs..picked up what I thought was early fade during flowering, just turned out to be wanting a little bit more P and she settled down. Again, Took to LST really well. And was no trouble. Really easier growers, both girls. ROUND UP OF BOTH PHENOS (Organic Synthetic) Both girls, may have differed in the way they grew. But, if you put both strains together, as they are, (uncured) there is no way I'd be able to tell the difference if I done a blind taste/smell test. Both girls gave roughly 115g in 75 days. They both have deep long orange pistils with very tight buds that are packed with flavours galore, and very sticky and stinky. Mainly berries (blackcurrant) at the moment has a grip on them with hints of pine with a citrus undertone. We will see if their profile changes much with a nice long cure. I should have a smoke report in before contest closes to give a true measure of these ladies. Shows how solid and steady these phenos are, as they are so closely in smell, taste and so on. Is a testament of good genes and Dutchs hard work to make all phenos more or less be similar. So, any beginner would have a very good experience growing these type of auto. Can't wait to try more from Dutch-Passion. And, you can get the same results, or near the same tasres/smells and big quality. EQUIPMENT USED. I used a 100w mainly to do these girls. I was swapping around in their early stages of life, trying to give them a higher ppfd. But, been hit with fungus gnats hampered me, by doing this. So, sadly they were only given a 100w mainly for most of their flowering life. They did get a dose of my FC 3000 from marshydro but, not enough time under it to do anything substantial. But, I'm sure it did have some impact on these. As most of my autos came out a little airy whereas these 2 phenos are nice and dense. The Synthetic was dry after 7 days. The organic took a day longer to be fully dry. Everything has been put to the cure. And smoke reports will soon follow with pictures of cured bud.

Yellow butterfly came to see me the other day; that was nice. Starting to show signs of stress on the odd leaf, localized isolated blips, blemishes, who said growing up was going to be easy! Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata. Leaf size tends to decrease in colder climates to reduce heat loss, while larger leaves are more common in warmer, humid environments. Plants in arid regions often develop smaller leaves with a thicker cuticle and/or hairs to minimize water loss through transpiration. Conversely, plants in wet environments may have larger leaves and drip tips to facilitate water runoff. Leaf size and shape can vary based on light availability. For example, leaves in shaded areas may be larger and thinner to maximize light absorption. Leaf mass per area (LMA) can be higher in stressful environments with limited nutrients, indicating a greater investment in structural components for protection and critical resource conservation. Wind speed, humidity, and soil conditions can also influence leaf morphology, leading to variations in leaf shape, size, and surface characteristics. Small leaves: Reduce water loss in arid or cold climates. Environmental conditions significantly affect gene expression in plants. Plants are sessile organisms, meaning they cannot move to escape unfavorable conditions, so they rely on gene expression to adapt to their surroundings. Environmental factors like light, temperature, water, and nutrient availability can trigger changes in gene expression, allowing plants to respond to and survive in diverse environments. Depending on the environment a young seedling encounters, the developmental program following seed germination could be skotomorphogenesis in the dark or photomorphogenesis in the light. Light signals are interpreted by a repertoire of photoreceptors followed by sophisticated gene expression networks, eventually resulting in developmental changes. The expression and functions of photoreceptors and key signaling molecules are highly coordinated and regulated at multiple levels of the central dogma in molecular biology. Light activates gene expression through the actions of positive transcriptional regulators and the relaxation of chromatin by histone acetylation. Small regulatory RNAs help attenuate the expression of light-responsive genes. Alternative splicing, protein phosphorylation/dephosphorylation, the formation of diverse transcriptional complexes, and selective protein degradation all contribute to proteome diversity and change the functions of individual proteins. Photomorphogenesis, the light-driven developmental changes in plants, significantly impacts gene expression. It involves a cascade of events where light signals, perceived by photoreceptors, trigger changes in gene expression patterns, ultimately leading to the development of a plant in response to its light environment. Genes are expressed, not dictated! While having the potential to encode proteins, genes are not automatically and constantly active. Instead, their expression (the process of turning them into proteins) is carefully regulated by the cell, responding to internal and external signals. This means that genes can be "turned on" or "turned off," and the level of expression can be adjusted, depending on the cell's needs and the surrounding environment. In plants, genes are not simply "on" or "off" but rather their expression is carefully regulated based on various factors, including the cell type, developmental stage, and environmental conditions. This means that while all cells in a plant contain the same genetic information (the same genes), different cells will express different subsets of those genes at different times. This regulation is crucial for the proper functioning and development of the plant. When a green plant is exposed to red light, much of the red light is absorbed, but some is also reflected back. The reflected red light, along with any blue light reflected from other parts of the plant, can be perceived by our eyes as purple. Carotenoids absorb light in blue-green region of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red region. They safeguard the photosynthetic machinery from excessive light by activating singlet oxygen, an oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids also quench triplet chlorophyll, which can negatively affect photosynthesis, and scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can damage cellular proteins. Additionally, carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. They serve as precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones such as abscisic acid () and strigolactones (SLs). These pigments are responsible for the orange, red, and yellow hues of fruits and vegetables, while acting as free scavengers to protect plants during photosynthesis. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is an electronically excited state of molecular oxygen (O₂). Singlet oxygen is produced as a byproduct during photosynthesis, primarily within the photosystem II (PSII) reaction center and light-harvesting antenna complex. This occurs when excess energy from excited chlorophyll molecules is transferred to molecular oxygen. While singlet oxygen can cause oxidative damage, plants have mechanisms to manage its production and mitigate its harmful effects. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is considered a reactive oxygen species (ROS). It's a form of oxygen with higher energy and reactivity compared to the more common triplet oxygen found in its ground state. Singlet oxygen is generated both in biological systems, such as during photosynthesis in plants, and in cellular processes, and through chemical and photochemical reactions. While singlet oxygen is a ROS, it's important to note that it differs from other ROS like superoxide (O₂⁻), hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), and hydroxyl radicals (OH) in its formation, reactivity, and specific biological roles. Non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) protects plants from damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) by dissipating excess light energy as heat. This process reduces the overexcitation of photosynthetic pigments, which can lead to the production of ROS, thus mitigating the potential for photodamage. Zeaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment, plays a crucial role in photoprotection in plants by both enhancing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS). In high-light conditions, zeaxanthin is synthesized from violaxanthin through the xanthophyll cycle, and this zeaxanthin then facilitates heat dissipation of excess light energy (NPQ) and quenches harmful ROS. The Issue of Singlet Oxygen!! ROS Formation: Blue light, with its higher energy photons, can promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), including singlet oxygen, within the plant. Potential Damage: High levels of ROS can damage cellular components, including proteins, lipids, and DNA, potentially impacting plant health and productivity. Balancing Act: A balanced spectrum of light, including both blue and red light, is crucial for mitigating the harmful effects of excessive blue light and promoting optimal plant growth and stress tolerance. The Importance of Red Light: Red light (especially far-red) can help to mitigate the negative effects of excessive blue light by: Balancing the Photoreceptor Response: Red light can influence the activity of photoreceptors like phytochrome, which are involved in regulating plant responses to different light wavelengths. Enhancing Antioxidant Production: Red and blue light can stimulate the production of antioxidants, which help to neutralize ROS and protect the plant from oxidative damage. Optimizing Photosynthesis: Red light is efficiently used in photosynthesis, and its combination with blue light can lead to increased photosynthetic efficiency and biomass production. In controlled environments like greenhouses and vertical farms, optimizing the ratio of blue and red light is a key strategy for promoting healthy plant growth and yield. Understanding the interplay between blue light signaling, ROS production, and antioxidant defense mechanisms can inform breeding programs and biotechnological interventions aimed at improving plant stress resistance. In summary, while blue light is essential for plant development and photosynthesis, it's crucial to balance it with other light wavelengths, particularly red light, to prevent excessive ROS formation and promote overall plant health. Oxidative damage in plants occurs when there's an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the plant's ability to neutralize them, leading to cellular damage. This imbalance, known as oxidative stress, can result from various environmental stressors, affecting plant growth, development, and overall productivity. Causes of Oxidative Damage: Abiotic stresses: These include extreme temperatures (heat and cold), drought, salinity, heavy metal toxicity, and excessive light. Biotic stresses: Pathogen attacks and insect infestations can also trigger oxidative stress. Metabolic processes: Normal cellular activities, particularly in chloroplasts, mitochondria, and peroxisomes, can generate ROS as byproducts. Certain chlorophyll biosynthesis intermediates can produce singlet oxygen (1O2), a potent ROS, leading to oxidative damage. ROS can damage lipids (lipid peroxidation), proteins, carbohydrates, and nucleic acids (DNA). Oxidative stress can compromise the integrity of cell membranes, affecting their function and permeability. Oxidative damage can interfere with essential cellular functions, including photosynthesis, respiration, and signal transduction. In severe cases, oxidative stress can trigger programmed cell death (apoptosis). Oxidative damage can lead to stunted growth, reduced biomass, and lower crop yields. Plants have evolved intricate antioxidant defense systems to counteract oxidative stress. These include: Enzymes like superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and various peroxidases scavenge ROS and neutralize their damaging effects. Antioxidant molecules like glutathione, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), C60 fullerene, and carotenoids directly neutralize ROS. Developing plant varieties with gene expression focused on enhanced antioxidant capacity and stress tolerance is crucial. Optimizing irrigation, fertilization, and other management practices can help minimize stress and oxidative damage. Applying antioxidant compounds or elicitors can help plants cope with oxidative stress. Introducing genes for enhanced antioxidant enzymes or stress-related proteins over generations. Phytohormones, also known as plant hormones, are a group of naturally occurring organic compounds that regulate plant growth, development, and various physiological processes. The five major classes of phytohormones are: auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, ethylene, and abscisic acid. In addition to these, other phytohormones like brassinosteroids, jasmonates, and salicylates also play significant roles. Here's a breakdown of the key phytohormones: Auxins: Primarily involved in cell elongation, root initiation, and apical dominance. Gibberellins: Promote stem elongation, seed germination, and flowering. Cytokinins: Stimulate cell division and differentiation, and delay leaf senescence. Ethylene: Regulates fruit ripening, leaf abscission, and senescence. Abscisic acid (ABA): Plays a role in seed dormancy, stomatal closure, and stress responses. Brassinosteroids: Involved in cell elongation, division, and stress responses. Jasmonates: Regulate plant defense against pathogens and herbivores, as well as other processes. Salicylic acid: Plays a role in plant defense against pathogens. 1. Red and Far-Red Light (Phytochromes): Red light: Primarily activates the phytochrome system, converting it to its active form (Pfr), which promotes processes like stem elongation and flowering. Far-red light: Inhibits the phytochrome system by converting the active Pfr form back to the inactive Pr form. This can trigger shade avoidance responses and inhibit germination. Phytohormones: Red and far-red light regulate phytohormones like auxin and gibberellins, which are involved in stem elongation and other growth processes. 2. Blue Light (Cryptochromes and Phototropins): Blue light: Activates cryptochromes and phototropins, which are involved in various processes like stomatal opening, seedling de-etiolation, and phototropism (growth towards light). Phytohormones: Blue light affects auxin levels, influencing stem growth, and also impacts other phytohormones involved in these processes. Example: Blue light can promote vegetative growth and can interact with red light to promote flowering. 3. UV-B Light (UV-B Receptors): UV-B light: Perceived by UVR8 receptors, it can affect plant growth and development and has roles in stress responses, like UV protection. Phytohormones: UV-B light can influence phytohormones involved in stress responses, potentially affecting growth and development. 4. Other Colors: Green light: Plants are generally less sensitive to green light, as chlorophyll reflects it. Other wavelengths: While less studied, other wavelengths can also influence plant growth and development through interactions with different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Key Points: Cross-Signaling: Plants often experience a mix of light wavelengths, leading to complex interactions between different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Species Variability: The precise effects of light color on phytohormones can vary between different plant species. Hormonal Interactions: Phytohormones don't act in isolation; their interactions and interplay with other phytohormones and environmental signals are critical for plant responses. The spectral ratio of light (the composition of different colors of light) significantly influences a plant's hormonal balance. Different wavelengths of light are perceived by specific photoreceptors in plants, which in turn regulate the production and activity of various plant hormones (phytohormones). These hormones then control a wide range of developmental processes.

I have been flashing for two weeks now I thought it was ready last week but this planet is slow to harvest I think a week or two it will be ready Left in two days of darkness to encourage finish. Worked on half of the plant

New week for the 7 strain 11 plants grow Everything is going great some little things here and there but nothing to be worrying about so i am happy how it goes one plant had balls and couple have some droopy leaves on them but have feeling my temp is way to low in darkness 16/3/22 I always show the good the bad and the ugly made couple mistakes wiles training but luckily these plants are so strong give some support and the branch that broke will fixes here self 💪🏻 Will be updating Tru the week And remember just grow weed and stop growing bullyish behavior visit www.marshydro.eu for your best gear and use the PROMO CODE: DEVILSBUD Some info about the Marshydro FC-4800 Superb Quality LED Chips: The whole light is composed of 1206 pcs Samsung lm301b and Osram 660nm chips. More than two times as many LEDs are used to drive the grow lights at low currents and to avoid overdrive. Quality is guaranteed and efficiency is up to 2.8 μmol/j. Even PAR Distribution and High PPFD Output: The multi-light bar design and the densely distributed light chips enable the LED grow lights to achieve the optimum PPFD required for plant growth over the entire effective coverage area. Specifically Designed Spectrum: To ensure even plant growth, blue and red light are enhanced on the basis of a full spectrum combination. Not only does this accelerate plant growth, but it also improves the yield and quality of the plants at the same time. Dimming Daisy Chain Function: The dimming function saves on electricity costs and enables brightness from 10% to 100% for the different stages of plant growth. A single master light can connect up to 30 lights in a daisy-chain system. Business LED Grow Light: The light's wavy heat sink dissipates heat quickly and the IP65 waterproof allows the light to operate in humid conditions. 180° collapsible feature for easier installation. All these features provide favorable assistance for commercial cultivation. And some tent info ●【Lock All Light Insid】MARS HYDRO Grow Tent Interior is made of diamond mylar. Non-toxic to the environment, no harm to plants. High-quality 1680D canvas being double stitched, (ALL OTHERS BRAND grow tent is 601D canvas) which is tear-proof for perfect light locking, No light leaks or rips at all. ●【Durability Grow Tent】Stable Metal corner adapters and poles are the trustful supporters of the tent. No rusting nor paint-falling. Quick easy tool-free installation. Carries strong heavy-duty SBS zippers, double layer lining to create a light-proof seal. ●【Easy Observation of your Plants】Special peeks window made by double layers of cloths. Observe the growing conditions of your plants without opening the tent and avoid disturbing plants. The peek window also serves to dissipate heat and ventilate air. ●【Removable Tray Keep Clean】The package includes a removable waterproof floor tray to hold soil and fallen leaves. The tray can be taken out easily to wash. Removable and water-proof makes cleaning easy. ●【Good Ventilation&Fast Assembly】 Circular double-sleeved vent holes with adjustable nylon strap for air circulation by exhaust fan, ducting, carbon filter, or reflector. Better allows proper light, heat, and airflow. Quick tool-free installation. Reinforced by a sturdy metal frame to ensure security and stability, supports up to 140lb. Perfectly safeguard your plants to thrive even in winter