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FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.
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Hi everyone 🤗. The last 5 women are nearing their end 😍. They will be harvested in the next 2-3 weeks. The rest of the ones that have already been harvested are currently fermenting 😍. The finished harvest pictures come when everyone is finished together 👍. This ends the last diary that was kept with several varieties. From now on only single strain diaries are coming, all individually ;-). I wish you a nice week, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 🌱
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Day 49. This week in the 4x8, the autos did amazing. This was the week they started to really pack on some weight and bulk up. They are stacking up nicely and are beginning to develop their own distinct terpene profile. Will update as they get further into flower. Or else I'll get a sad face 😔 lol I did come up on a storage unit full of equipment. Will be updating my cooling system soon and the watering system
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@Salokin
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Hi All, The week was pretty uneventful, the plant is developing nicely. I removed a leave here and there to make sure maximum light exposure in the middle of the canopy is guaranteed. The buds stopped stretching so I’ll will stop with the boost and add the pk 13/14 to help with the fattening. Dried and smoked a few of the lowest popcorn buds and they are by all means not there, but smell and taste pretty awesome. I have also added a few pictures of the new box that I have built for the cuttings. The box was build pretty low budget, however I will still need to add a better light source as I am currently running on only 60W veg lights. Was planning to buy the Greenception GCx5solo 150W full spectrum LED, as it would fit exactly Inside the box.
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Skywalker putting on tons of frost and seems to be happy with the status quo so no more compost teas for her. Starting to have a distinct Kush scent filling the tent now. In the future I’d probably LST this from the start to increase yields but other than some defoliation throughout, I haven’t done any training which has been nice. Blueberry impressed me with the size of the buds starting to form. Signs of frost for sure. Not very aromatic yet at this point. Stem rub is a different story. She has been showing some signs of calcium/mag deficiency in some of the leaves which seemed to improve with top dressing/Recharge. Been drinking a steady liter minimum daily Glueberry OG continues to explode in growth. I’ve done quite a bit of defoliation to keep tops exposed and it has bounced back quick each time. I can see why this would be a fun strain outdoors, as it is slowly taking up a solid 4 square ft of the tent. I may end up finishing this outdoors depending on its desire to consume the canopy space. Due to the longer flower period, I’ll keep up with compost teas to support all that growth. So far, it seems to be working Week ended 7/20
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She is growing back out nicely and in a week or so I am starting on revealing her rootsystem First start has begun….🙏❤️
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Everything good. Cutting down in 5 to 6 days. Did get any colors yet. But tempatures dropping in this last week so if that helps we’ll see. But over all, plants smell amazing. A lot like cake to me. Other people smell a real heavy lemon. I disagree but maybe curated it’ll be more obvious to me. Update* had last flush today. Next two days no lights before I chop. Updated some pictures. Lots of trichomes on these. Out of the three red hot cookie plants all three are pretty different in appearance and pheno. Any guesses on dried and cured weight? 4 plants.
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@UDUDUDUDU
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it's tuff running many plants and a garden' especially when growdiaries takes 5 hours to upload... But yes. From here on out, itll be smooth sailing. Eggspect one picture a week ;)
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Planing to move in dwc under fluence light food by Front Row Ag. Let's see how she does.
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Welcome Back!💚 Die Sleepy Joe befindet sich nun in der ersten Blutewoche und bis jetzt ist wenig an Stretch zu beobachten. Die Blatgrösse hat dennoch nochmal ordentlich zugenommen. Die Vorblüte ist in vollem gange und die Pistolen bilden sich allmählich aus. Die Pflanze wirkt relativ kompakt und gut beieinander, was so typisch für eine starken Indicawuchs ist. Die Umgebungsgegebenheiten sind weiterhin optimal: ————— 🌞 Temp: 23, 2 🌚 Temp: 18°C bis 19°C 💦 RH: 43% 💨 VPD: 1,28 kPa 🧐 😎 PPFD: 750 mqm ————— Grüne Grüße 🥦
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@kdifiori_
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Week eleven for this Lady as she nears the finish line. The flush has begun, two liters of water for her this week. The aroma is spectacular, and she’s covered in trichomes. Not long now! Stay tuned.
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Week 15. Had a look at the trichomes on the a few sites. 50%cloudy some embers rest are clear. And getting very long in comparison with her sister zkittlez organic. This bud seems to be hitting that 21% THC better, yet, lots of things are still an unknown. For example the exact THC/YIELD /QUALITY. Finished with the grow nute, to see can I bring more resin/trichomes. Seems to have been ok. Won't know it's true effects if any for a wk or so. Moved back on to bloom and bloom nutes, root stims, enzymes. Gave a hard flush to get rid of any old grow left and clear the weeks salts. 31/3/22 Led grow bars arrived. They sent me the wrong1s. So contacted them and they said instead of sending the 4 bars I ordered they sent this set that is better than the 4 and also gave me back my all the money for that part of the order and gave me 40e light bars for free. 31/3/22 Installed both 48x2 led chip bars 10 both bars are 5 watts each. Should help increase bottom-mid growth as it lags behind. The SF-1000 Light is great this is just for the rest of the huge zkittlez to catch up. RH is in a good range today 54%RH for the whole day since I woke up. Slowing down on fluid uptake. Use to be over 2l before she'd throw anything back. 1.8l is her limit now. I know I'm abit all over the place. But after looking through my nutes. I missed out on giving Nirvana, yeah the soil grows got it once a week but in coco meant to be from wk3-6 of bloom currently we are in week 6, just started so gonna squeeze in a weeks worth of Nirvana and its increased the PPM by 250 aswel as the. 5 increase in some PK focused nutes and some extra silica for the plant as she is weak and has HST'ed 3 colas and 2 stems. So, gonna try put her back on it. I really have been all over the place with giving nutes, more of a case of tweaking things to figure out what's right. After my beginners buys I can now say I can find the same if not better nutes that do the very same thing in the AN line or the GH tripack. They also have kleen roots that's like voodoo juice. Must cheaper, and then we have senzyme and ancient organic earth tea for piranha and tarantula which cost 70e a L as opposed to 12e a L for senzyme and ancient tea. It's just a case of shopping round and not getting sucked in my big words. Check out diaries that these fungi/enzymes are used and they work just as good as the expensive stuff. Also the jungle juice micro is a great trace element nute. 2/4/22 Stacking on lots of nice looking terps colors of purple in the bud. With lots of sugar balls. Hopefully buds will get bigger by about 10-20% hard to see but still about 15-20 white hairs. Much more lower down the bud it's it's like 50/50 stigmaVSambers Decided for the plants benefit I'm doing a 30min hard flush and restarting the whole nute programme again. Just got a little run-off back from a 1.8l feed and was 2200ppm 800 nearly more than the feed. 2/4/22 Did a hard flush today. Took 3 mins to get it down from 2200 to tap water level then threw 500ml of filtered water with cal mag extra 1ml/l. She was so sticky just now after lifting moving her colas with my arm to the side to take the TDA pic. Fuck she is so sticky. I took the HST-ed bud today. Weighted in at 1.9 wet after trim. Needed a sample anyways. It's looking like I'm going to have to do a 2 fucking part harvest. As there is just waaaayyyy too much undeveloped bud sites to harvest the plant I'd be losing over 1/2 of my harvest. So I've decided when the top 5 nodes are done. I'm gonna take them and and set the plant up evenly and give her another 2-3 wks to finish and I should get way more if I bring her to harvest in total in 2-3wks. I'd be losing soooo much. It's hard to show you guys what I mean. All you can see is the top bud sites. But that's only 30% of the plant. At least 70% is behind 50 of that is so far behind it will not catch up in time as long as these top 5 colas are taking all the energy and nutes, it's the only thing that makes sense at this stage. With the added lights I know there only 10 watts but I'm hoping that will increase my mid sites. I'm gonna just try take as little off as I can but max on what I do take off should hopefully bring her about and I'll be for sure giving the rest of her a 3 day rest period in the dark. Oh btw. If anyone has any idea as how to go about this message me. I've read up all I can. I NEED PPL WHO HAVE DONE THIS BEFORE. So heres my plan. I'm gonna lower down the wk before I take the colas back down to a 16-8 then I'm gonna let her rest for 24hrs with full light water and so on, (she'll be on flawless finish for the week), hoping that'll keep what I need alive to finish her off, cause if she dies on me, I'm fucked. I know 24hrs without light is not good. But 50/50 she'll pull through and go right back to work after I take her colas off I'll hard flush her and back on nutes for 2-3weeks. What u guys think? 4/4/22 GREAT UPDATE...I'M SO FUCKING HAPPY 😁😁😁😁 Finally, some bud anyone would be proud to have produced. It wasn't even fully done, the bud I dried in a box took 4 days. Got .45 back from 2.1 it was fucking AMAZING!! The bud isn't even done, wasn't rested. Cured and the taste/stone is top class. That alone I had a joint and a bong. And I'm BAKED. Defo more leaning on the indica side 75/25 Sativa. But left decent amount of trichs in the 3tier grinder. Defo needs a flush and to be finished she's going to be pushing near 20%THC. She already nearly there tbh but that bud alone had about 40% clear trichomes. And she's still more indica than sativa. The organic bud is 12-15% the 100 sativa. This bud, bloodshot eyes, heavy head stone. Munchies galore. I'm stuck to the couch. I WANT MORE. Roll on baby roll on, I'm so tempted to chop her. Not gonna happen though. I'm over the moon though. TBH i was worried that this bud would be 12-15%. Thank God it's not the case. It's powerful. Doesn't take much to get high. Idk about you but if I don't get that from bud within am hour I'd go through 1.5-2gs by myself to get what. 5 gets you in 10mins. I've slowly started to feel the Sativa high, uplifted, really happy after about 5mins of smoking my joint/Bong. Then 10-15 mins later bye bye sativa and HELLO indica. Heavy head high the last 2 hours 30-40mins in I got the munchies heavy. KFC sorted that, I dunno about you, but a weed is like a nice glass of wine and the weed made my meal go down a treat. Will be running it off for the next week but it was worth it. Think I'll have myself q little sleep now, in a little goof 2 hours in. 100% NOT A DAY TIME SMOKE. I can hardly operate this phone and I'm having trouble remembering what I'm writing, oh and am I raml8ng. 🤣🤣 night night at 6pm. I also took a 2.5 gram tester, it was a bud that I k8nds broke off when checking for stigma' (white pistils underneath the bud at the top part of the top cola broke off and this bud has purple notes in it, it's the very same looking bud that is in yday picks, That's when I broke a 2.4 wet purple resin/trich balls bud. It glitters in the light looks fill of trich balls. She's 75 cloudy. Some milky turning cloudy and about 10% long clear tops with milky bottoms, but the bud was taken by mistake just as the light turned off so it had no rest period at all. Hopefully if I can keep the RH low I'll be able to sort out my plants and even make them stronger over the next few weeks. BTW, For coco, taratula&piranha are very expensive, yea they have some benefit in coco of course. But there is much cheaper alternatives in the AN line. Senzyme will help break down old roots like tarantula, help nute uptake and also has piranha properties. Also mixed with ancient earth organic tea and that is more than enough fungi/enzymes for coco. But if you don't mind spending the money, you can use them but they are best in soil. Even do a 50/50 soil light mix/coco that alone is the best recommend substrate for doing autos/fems, especially if you are wanting to make the most out of these expensive nutes. Voodoo ((Tarantula)) ((Piranha ))) Use these cheaper subs for coco with the voodoo juice. SENZYME+ACIENT EARTH ORGANIC TEA. 6/4/22 Okay, so things, not so well. She's stopped taking nutes. And cut drinking by a 1/10. No nute change from the feed. She's in nute lock. It's cause the top parts are done. And they are the main colas but everything else coming from them is miles behind. So, my minds made up. I'm going to top harvest this week. I've no choice. She isn't taking nutes. If I don't do it now the bud/larf below will mature into light airy bud....larf. gotta get her back taking nutes. 6/4/22 YAY, Finally a dehumidifier that works. This thing literally has been running 1 hr. With the grow room door being closed the RH can drop to 45% but with the HEPA filter the smell is gone out the house and it has heated the whole house, it's crazy what this 20l dehuimifier does. Bonkers. Finally I am hitting peak conditions for growing, when my door is closed I can get the RH in the tent to hit 70%+ and now with this machine I can get it as low as 45%, it's only been on 1hr. In my tent this is how much electric it uses. Look at the pic above 218watts in 20c temp 60% RH that's our house when the heating is off by turning it on it drops in the range of 50% after a couple of hours. temp is 23% so I'd say it uses in the mid range so maybe 230watts. Yes, the electricity bill will go up but bye bye gas, as this thing heats out whole house much better. Worth the money, if you have high RH in your tent don't put a dehuimifier in your tent get a good 20l at least or 12l if you keep your grow room door closed. This one is 259£ 330euro. It A energy rated. Won tons of awards and with not having to use the central heating anymore it'll actually even itself out. Great buy, it's really going to transform what I can get out of the bud as for quality and with my tent getting to 70%+ with the grow room door closed and then when in flower I can get it down to 45% and maybe that'll get even better. SAME DAY: So with my RH under perfect cond I think waiting any longer would be madness as I will risk losing a massive bloom in the mid-lower section that's full of stigma that If I don't act fast will end up turning into lots of amber pistils like little balls of stigma. I was preparing for this: I've been giving her water the last 3 days, today is the third. Overfed her to get run-off and was 1650, (meaning the top colas have stopped feeding). Hard flushed got ppm down to 210 and then after 2 hours through 500ml of flawless finish 2ml/l dose. This is meant to be given for a week, but here's the thing, I'm only harvesting 30% of the plant. Maybe will push it to 40% I'm taking the top colas any any well formed enough bud with no more than 30% of stigma. So 70% amber pistil buds will be taken. The 30% is just white pistils that could do with another week. But I'd rather take 10% and help the plant max out and hopefully she'll finish up. Cause if she stalls I'm gonna be left with a lot of poxy larf. So, sadly the flush will be halted t9morrow come 12pm I'm putting her into 12hrs of dark and taking what I need to. Hard flushing the flawless finish, let her drink up plain for till the next day and then back on a 800-1200 ppm depending how the plant reacts. I really don't know what's gonna happen. I know the top colas will be harsh but I've had a tester and to be honest I'm more than happy with it, I won't be curing the colas it will only being out the chemicals in her. 30-40% of petty dark good bud, little harsh but more than good enough, she'll been in nute lock the last week anyways so. She barley taking 3-400ppm out of her feeds and that's just a guess. Let's see what happens. And there wasn't any way I could of kept the top colas going as the plant is confused. I know that might not make sense. But the plant feeds from the top down, if the top isn't drawing up feed it's not drawing it full stop. Hence why the lower-mid growth has stalled. This is more of a see what can I save now. I could either just let her finish for the next 2 weeks. Takes what's on top and be happy with 50-60% larf. So, 40% of good bud and hopefully beem able to briny the other 60% to full harvest makes more sense to me. If it fails it fails the bud will finish off the way it would of, or worse it'll just finish. Let's see what happens over the next 48hrs. BTW dehuimifier works 1hr on 1 off goes between 45RH to 53 over the hours it's not on. Thanks for reading gottagrowsometime
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@3lementa1
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August 23: Just finishing up about 36 hours of darkness, then I'm going to wash the buds, then hang them. Harvesting a bit early due to time constraints but it looks good. The smell is very dank, not a tropical skittles smell, much more like wood glue as I've seen mentioned in other reviews, although I'm starting to occasionally catch a sweeter tropical scent as well. I wanted to leave it a little longer. There were still a lot of white hairs when I started the dark period, but a lot of them seem to have developed into swollen calyxes so I'm pretty happy. I was a little worried they were making seed pods after last time, but I broke one open and all that was inside was red hairs. I'm going to keep an eye on the RH while they're drying and get them into jars and try to wait as long as possible before I start sampling. I can tell this is one of those batches that's going to get better and better if left alone for a couple months. Just did the wash, did 1.25 cups of 34% food grade H202 and a squeezed lemon in a 5 gal bucket. Another bucket of just water to rinse. Then I had a fan on it while hanging in the sunlight from a skylight in the bathroom for 30 min, then put the fan further back and on oscillate, then turned it down an hour later. Left it in there for a few hours, then hung it in the grow tent with everything removed except an oscillating fan, pointed away from the buds. I have the whole plant hanging in the middle of the tent and the tent is holding at 60% rh. Next run I'm going to do 2 buckets and only top once. I might leave them a bit longer in veg too to maximize the height in my grow space, and I'll get a proper 500w bulb instead of continuing to run 1000w bulbs at 50% to lower the heat a bit. The weather will be cooler and I'll only run one air stone in each bucket which should help with res temp. I'll probably foil-wrap the buckets again as well. I should be able to get another run done by the end of the year. I have a White Widow fem seed I've been waiting to use but I'm not sure what else I want to grow yet. Maybe Granddaddy Purp. I'll take some micro pics of the trichomes this week and start curing, and I'll post a proper review in a couple weeks. Happy growing everyone! August 24: I took it out of the tent to inspect. No mold or mildew. The middle of some buds are still pretty wet. I'll keep an eye on it. Wet weight on the stem is 158 grams/ 5.5oz. I harvested a couple branches last week and hung them up. I just ground up one of the buds, left it overnight and vaped some today. There was a bit of Chemdawg Tangerine in the grinder already but overall I got a lot of thick vapour, instant effects, and a really great tropical taste. I busted out the microscope camera and I realized I had a couple buds that fell off before I washed the plant in the H202, and a couple buds that came off in the washing process. It doesn't look like washing the buds took off any of the trichomes. I do seem to find less debris in the buds, not that there was much there before. The trichs look great. Just a light toasting of amber. The washed bud actually seems more dry than the unwashed bud. August 25: there's a real chlorophyll smell coming from the drying room today, it was much terpier yesterday. Leaves are getting crunchy, stems are still fully bendy. I ended up taking it down in the evening. The drying room rh dropped from 60% to 55% and the buds were starting to look too dry based on my last grow. I put it all in a paper bag for the night and I'll put it in jars tomorrow morning. Broken down most of the way it came out to 48-49 grams. From the bud structure, I definitely feel like it would have benefitted from more grow time if I didn't have to travel. More to come. August 26 - the edges of the buds are getting really crispy and the buds are getting tighter. I checked the paper bag earlier and it was 65-70%. I got the impression it was time to put it into jars. I'll keep the lids off for a bit.
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Привет друзья мои! Моё растение во всю цветёт и пахнет! Этот малыш явно хочет жить и не сдаётся!) Вот я понимаю стремление. Кустик маленький но мне нравится. Всем мира и добра и хорошей генетики!
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Has been 3 weeks since my last post due to holiday. The wedding cake was a bit delayed in grow because my PH meter was broken so I was assuming my PH was correct while in actuality it was too low. The scrog net is covered for about 60% wanted to play it safe because I’m not sure how much it will stretch. The clock has been set on 12/12 yesterday. Expect to see some flower growth in 2 weeks.
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Ieri 24/7/2025 ho messo fuori in giardino del mio brother questa matanuska....qui dovrebbe esplodere 😂😉👍💪.spero che in questi 2 mesi di fioritura ci siano belle giornate di sole da dare alla pianta tutto il fullpower che ha bisogno,💪🙏
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@Ferenc
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Did she start flowering ? Usually I see the same with pheno ants when I switch off the light for 36 hours to start flowering and after the top is light green. This is how flowering starts. I am not sure about her ? Weather is shit anyways....
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Hello growers and welcome to week 6. I expect Queen Citronella to gain a lot of height this week. I will be doing the measurements shortly, but first I wanted to share some news! Queen Citronella has a new home, she hasn't moved in yet, but I'm working on it today. I will also be rearranging all the other grows and starting some new things off! I am not sure if I have mentioned it anywhere but I am using a 1.2m x 1.2.m x 1.8m tent.. I have just got a 60cm x 60cm x 140cm tent and a 300w LED. Her Majesty I hope will enjoy her new quarters. Day 36: I have lowered the light to 30cm above the tallest plants. Day 37: It is done! Queen Citronella resides in her own palace, while the rest of the plebs squat together in the communal living area. I have reorganised and moved my 4x4, mounting the carbon filter and duct fan properly in the center. Setup a 2 x 2 with a 300w LED and put the lights for both tents on the same timer (for now). I will measure and photograph Her Majesty a little later, including photos of her new home. Day 37: Added media. Height: 31cm. Fertigated 2l. Day 37.5: Alright she is really stretching fast, she grew almost 5cm in a little over 30 hours, A thought has just occurred to me; I could, if I chose to, put the Queen on a flower cycle at this point. Now I did want to do a full grow of clones, however we're talking something like another 2 weeks of veg then 2 weeks for cuttings to root, then I'd want to veg them for a few more weeks, maybe 2, 3 or 4? So that's 6-10 weeks before I start flowering. Then at least ten weeks of flowering, A week to dry, and at least a fortnight to cure. We're talking 20-25 weeks before I get to smoke it, that's six months! I probably wont be able to grow in the summer due to the heat. Now I already have the one cutting which I am hoping will root soon, which I can take forward, but I also have two more seeds. So, regretfully, I think I will change my plans. I will flower queen Citronella, starting on day 43. I still intend to do a full tent of Super Lemon Haze clones, but I think I will postpone that adventure until September. So this is now the final week or final five days of veg, she will spend the bulk of her last week of veg under a different light. We wont get much data on vegging (unless there is a significant change this week) but it'll be a nice trial run flowering with an LED light for the first time. Exciting! I am still waiting for the Epislon F1 seeds from RQS. I set their pot up today, inoculated, fed, and sowed some Dark Opal (Purple) Greek Basil and a liberal sprinkling of chamomile. I am going to germinate all five seeds in jiffy pellets and then put them all in the same 40l Day 38: I have realised Her Majesty was too tall to flower in this little tent so I snapped her neck a bit. I installed a photometer app yesterday and discovered I was blasting Citronella with 75 DLI so I raised to light up until canopy level was 40 DLI. The LED is pretty good. The HPS Dual Spectrum bulb in the main tent must be on its last legs as output was around 40 DLI for optimally positioned plants and 30 least optionally positioned. I could do to buy a new bulb. Identical replacement is about fifteen bucks, best one is about fifty. For that I could get another one of those LEDs which seems like better value. At the moment though I really need the heat. So I am thinking identical replacement. 4 days to flower cycle! Day 38.5: Replaced crappy old Dutch barn reflector with a much nicer angel wing model. Installed a significantly larger carbon filter into the main tent which has significantly increased air flow. The main tent vents into the bottom of Queen Citronella's tent, and from there and unfiltered duct fan in the far top corner exhausts it out. The exhaust pipe goes up the chimney. Why have I reorganised and moved the tents again so soon is because I was wasting power heating the little tent with the LED light, but the main tent has excess heat. Well this setup is working a treat. Citronella is sitting in a balmy 23-24 degree wind tunnel. Check out the little video of the changes. Day 39: I think her majesty likes her new quarters. It's going to be weird seeing her square in a few more days. We are 2 days into a "dry spell" I'm simulating for all my plants. Day 40: Dry spell ended. Fertigated 6l. Day 41: Fertigated 3l. Citronella's penultimate day of veg, she is going 12/12 from lights out after next. Photos taken 10:00 9/2/23. Current lights out is Citronella's last 6 hour night! Day 42: Start: Have performed pre-flower LST, HST, and defoliation. 24 hours to flower cycle. Day 42: End: photographed immediately before first 12h night. End of week summary: Huge week for Citronella. I think this LED light is pretty good. Change of plans regarding the grow and preparing her for flower. Let's see how she does.
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@NMGDOC
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Semana del 1 al 7 de marzo. Lo apunto aquí porque sino luego no sé ni en que semana vamos jaja 😂 Las primeras fotos y vídeo son del inicio de la semana. Hemos retrasado el cambio de una semana a otra, ya que por el lavado de raíces no las pudimos alimentar antes. Luego cambiaremos el PH a 5,8-9 y el EC también lo aumentaremos. Edito: al final no lo hemos aumentado porque respondían bien y estaban recuperándose. Respecto a la semana anterior, se ven mucho mejor después del lavado de raíces. Algunas plantas están muy bajitas, así que la luz para las más bajas está a 65 cm. Mañana o pasado aplicaré jabón potásico con aceite de neem a modo de prevención. La vez pasada, que era mi primera vez plantando, llegaron trips y al final resultó todo bien, pero si no llegan los bichos, mejor todavía