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Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.
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running out of space..lol,despite defoliage and tidy,still coming along nicely ,starting to reek .ph is in normal range,start of week gave a days flush.will consider if any extra nutrients required over next few days eg.advanced overdrive.
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Partially drained the tank at the start of the week and topped up with ro water and 1ml of final solution per Litre. Last 2.5 days were in darkness. I trimmed the majority of fan leaves before hanging up to dry in the tent today. Started out trimming with the plants in the tent and soon realised it would be much easier to just cut them down whole, hang them upside down outside the tent and trim them up a bit. I have a small dehumidifier and a small fan heater setup in the tent and they have been keeping a humidity level of about 60% and a temp of 16 Celsius for the last few days while the lights have been off. I figure that's a good starting point for drying and I can increase the temperature if needed, that will drop the humidity also. Intake fan at the bottom and extract fan at the top are running constantly as they have been since the grow started (low power 4" fans). I might add back in a fan for circulation depending on how the drying goes, or maybe even trim or hang the plants better to get more airflow around the buds
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@Edenganj
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They’re loving the heat, even if I am not. They’ve grown substantially within a week. I have been rotating the stem around the stem clockwise to train its strength. Anything else you guys suggest I should consider? Please shoot your advice my way.
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Scrog before preflowering. Add new photos 3 days more grow
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Topped and pruned this week. Probably too late. Definitely watered a lot less. Be fore I am certain that I Was drowning them
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@BodyByVio
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It was a longer road until here. With all the reading I did I still made rookie mistakes. To much nutrients and to much light stunt my plant and created some deficiencies ( CaMg). Hopefully I will do ok from now on.... Lifted the light at 3 feet on 100% power and decreased the PPM’s to 600. Hopefully that will help and I did not create to much damage. Wish me luck. I invested a lot of time and money on this grow but the experience is not there yet. I’m ok with what it is, I’ve learned a lot from this grow.
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Boy oh boy look at these babies grow I'm studying them more and more to ensure they are happy. I've notice that gelato 41 is producing bud spots like thats what it was ment for. Tropi cherry is coming along but not as fast as G41, and runtz muffin im a little disappointed in but i believe that is my fault for im still new and have only grown 1 plant prior to these 3. It also doesnt help i had to cut the vegitation cycle by 2 weeks as well. and further more I was at least able to give 2 clones away, the rest were still good but couldn't find them homes so i had to throw them away. Next time I'll have all the room they need and can't wait to make mother plants of my favorites.
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ya se ven las flores, riego cada tres días , y corto las hojas que están caídas solo .último día de la semana 9 ya se aprecian las flores
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Today is start of week 4. Not much to report except , all plants got defoliated on day 19 for the last time. Also little buds is starting to form on all the short zkittlez plant the tall plants looks to be 3 or 4 days behind the short plants. (12 clones vegg for 1 week in 16 oz cups transplanted into 1 gallon grow bag and into flower this week.)
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SUNDAY 5/5: Rearranged the gardens..have 17 plants in the 4 x 5 now...yowsa! MONDAY: Plucked some dead leaves and did a trichrome check on her. She's getting close now! Prolly about 80% cloudy and 5% amber! I'll start flushing her tomorrow or the next day if she's not dried out yet. TUESDAY: I observed some white spots on a few leaves here and there, so I sprayed her today with Trifecta Crop Cure, a concoction of a bunch of natural plant oils. I already decreased the humidity in the room to 45% with my new 70L dehumidifier, so I think she'll be fine. I'll spray her again tomorrow and the next day, then I'll have to hope that did the trick, because she is already in the harvest window. WEDNESDAY: I flushed her today with about 4 gallons of ph'd spring water and bembe. It was her last dose of any nutes...flushing with only spring water from here on out. THURSDAY: Took a couple of photos and tried installing my new Solacure FlowerPower UVB light, but it was dead on arrival.😢..back to the 15.0 reptile UVB lights for now I guess...
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**Encontrarás la traducción a español al final de la descripción** From/Desde: 08/03/19 || To/Hasta: 14/03/19 From day/Desde día: 15 || To day/Hasta día: 21 You can find the Money Maker Diary here: ** Podéis encontrar el diario de las Money Maker aquí:** https://growdiaries.com/diaries/25667-gorillamakingmoney-gorilla-vs-money-m -----IMAGES & VIDEOS----- Video 1: 7 days TimeLapse, 1 image each 60 secs @ 30 fps, you can see how beauty is the dance of this babies and how are they growing. Video 7: An overview video of the babies, moments before i performed the first topping/man-linning/prunning/LST on the biggest gorilla. The other one is recovering at time from those ugly color marks she has on them leaves. As the leaves seems not healthy i decided to not perform the man-lining on this one until it has a pair of healthy main leaves on which i can trust to guide. Video 11: Main Gorilla ultrafast topping/man-linning/prunning/LST. -----WEEK SUMMARY----- I traveled to Venecia this week and i have very few photos, also i returned with a terrible flu, so i'm not going to take too much photos for the next week too, i'm so sorry. I'm a bit scared about what happened to the gorilla that looks sick, the other one is growing like a monster, is almost double size comparing with the other 3 plants, this week i've seen enough distances on the plant to start with the techniques. I must say that she responded very well to the pruning... Also this week i'm going to apply a foliar irrigation to see if i can help to the sick gorilla. -----WATERING CALENDAR----- 12/03/19 - 700 ml with all week nutrients @ 0.95 E.C. PH5.9 12/03/19 - FOLIAR - Used about 25 ml of (200 ml water with 1ml Pro Active, 2 ml Plant Vitality + and 0.1 ml Foliar Spray) *****ESPAÑOL***** -----IMÁGENES & VÍDEOS----- Vídeo 1: TimeLapse de 7 días, 1 imagen cada 60 segundos @ 30fps, observad la maravillosa danza de las nenas y cómo crecen. Video 7: Un vídeo general del armario, está grabado momentos antes de realizar las técnicas de cultivo sobre la mejor de las gorilas. La otra se sigue reponiendo de esas manchas feas que le salieron en las hojas. Ya que las hojas parecen enfermas, he decidido no hacer el man-lining hasta que no tenga un par de hojas saludables en las que poder confiar para hacer el guiado y alimentar los brotes. Video 11: Vídeo super rápido del topping, man-lining, podado y entrenamiento. -----SUMARIO SEMANAL----- He viajado esta semana a Venecia y tengo pocas fotos, también he vuelto con una gripe del horror por lo que también voy a disponer de pocas fotos la semana que viene, disculpas por anticipado. Estoy un poco preocupado por la Gorila que parece enferma, la otra crece como un monstruo, si la comparas con las otras es casi el doble de cualquiera de ellas. Esta semana ya siento suficiente espacio en la planta para comenzar con las técnicas. He de decir que responderá muy bien al podado. Esta semana también aplicaré un riego foliar a ver si ayuda a la gorila enferma. -----WATERING CALENDAR----- 12/03/19 - 700 ml con todos los nutrientes semanales @ 0,95 E.C. PH5,9 12/03/19 - FOLIAR - He usado unos 25 ml de (200 ml de agua con 1ml Pro Active, 2 ml Plant Vitality + y 0,1 ml Foliar Spray)
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@Lazuli
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She finally puts on some decent weight, i keep feeding strong for another week
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@Eddjack
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Sta esplodendo si iniziano a definire le prime cimette. Inizia a emanare anche un buon profumo molto fruttato, per fortuna esistono i filtri ai carboni attivi. Ora sta solo ad aspettare dopo le carenze iniziali si e ripresa alla grande vedremo in futuro che succederà. Dajeforte growes
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@majklsoft
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- introduced 7W far red light bulb to boost stretching (girls are VERY bushy) - slowly drying soil (so I drilled more holes on side of the pot like a cheap dyi airpot) - preflower Keyra (the bigger one) is what I would say a stretching phase and Margot (smaller) evidently falls behind but not stretching yet, I hope she catches her atleast little bit..
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The last few weeks of her in flower week 9…she smells lovely
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5/25 Some pics may be repeated because I forgot to add a new week. Waited until about 11 to bring the girls outside. They were definately dry on top so I used the rest of the gallon to water them. When going outside I noticed a specific kush plant that's lighter than the rest. I really need to up my water volume on these big plants. They are also getting close to not liking it in the 1 gal. and are ready for a transplant. I cleaned the cage so as soon as the weather permits these girls will be outside in the direct sunlight. Basking in the sun in the cage to finish hardening before going into their final homes which will be 20-30 gal smart pots and a 50 gal grow pot. Well SOME of them are ready for transplant. The link kush seems to take its time but it looks extremely indica-E. Weather looks like it will be amazing this week so I'm obviously stoked. Wouldn't suprise me if these girls were outdoors be the end of the week! EDIT: THE GIRLS STAYED OUT FOR 3.5 HOURS AND LOOKED FANTASTIC. TUEY GOT SOME INTENSE SUN, EXPOSIRE TO THE HIGH RH AND A LITTLE EXPISURE TO THE HIGH WINDS. SPECIAL KUSH SEEMS TO BE THRIVING. I THINK IT WILL DO WELL IN THIS CLIMATE. THAT ONE MK ULTRA IS GROWING AT A RIDICULOUS RATE. I WATERED THE PIBK KUSH THAT WAS LIGHT. I CANT WAIT FOR THE UPCOMING WEATHER. I CAN EXPOSE THE PLANTS TO SOME DIRECT SUNLIGHT AND SEE HOW THEY HANDLE IT. I CAN ALSO GET THE GROW BAGS READY WITH SOIL MOXED AND THEM IN THE RIGHT LOCATION THE DAY BEFORE THE TRWNSPLANT TO FINAL HOME BUT IM GETTING AHEAD OF MYSELF. IM HAPPY THUS FAR. I also added another half hour of darkness so the plants will be closer to actual daylight times. They're down to 16.5. I'd like to have them lower by now but it is what it is. If some reveg I'll deal with it. 5/26 Plants seem to grow an inch I'm a day. MOST are getting to the point where they want to stretch their feet out. Good thing they'll be going in their final homes as soon as they are hardened off completely. I brought them out around 8 this morning. I have to be back at noon but I'm uncertain if leaving them out that long is a good idea. I'll probably have to check them in an hour or so. They're in the lean-to but THAT gets direct sun until the sun rises high enough in the sky to block it. I put them in here rather than the cage so they can build a tolerance to these harsh winds. Topsoil was dry as fuck. I watered everything. I focused on those that SEEMED the lightest and the largest plants. That MK Ultra plant I fimmed is going to be MASSIVE. I'll update what I do as I do it. Oh I also cleaned the bags twice and they are hanging inside the cage with the direct uv rays hitting any part that's discolored. I MIGHT do one more cleaning but I doubt it. Twice is enough. Technically three times but still. I want things to go right. It looks like I've got some pretty good phenos. EDIT: I PULLED IN (BLOCKING VIEW FROM PART OF THE DRIVEWAY OFF) BECAUSE THAT WAS CLOSER TO MY PLANTS. I GET OUT AND START ADMIRING MY PLANTS AND LOOK ACROSS THE STREET TO SEE TWO STATE TROOPERS AND SOME DETECTIVE ACROSS THE STREET. DAD SAID AN AMBULANCE CAME BUT LEFT WITH NO LIGHTS ON. THEY WERE TALKIMG TO THE COUPLE SEPERATELY. I ATE LUNCH AND THEY WERE STILL THERE. MY HOT WIFE WENT OUT AND THE ALL STARTED FUCKING RUBBER NECKING. MEANWHILE I BROUGHT THE PLANTS INSIDE WITH THE SMALL COVER MY S.U.V PROVIDES LOL. PLANTS WERE LEFT IN DIRECT LIGHT UNTIL IT ROSE HIGH ENOUGH TO CUT IT OFF TO THE LEAN TO. PLANTS SEEM LIGHT. WELL SOME DO. I NEED TO GET A GOOD WATERING SCHEDULE DOWN. JUDGING BY HOW THESE PLANTS TOOK IT TODAY I THINK THEYLL BE OUTSIDE IN FOREVER HOMES WITHIN A WEEK. 5/27 Just poked my head in and checked on them real quick. NO damage whatsoever from all that time in the sun. I left them inside this morning so I can bring them out later in the day to see what happens. I'll add pics later and update what I do. EDIT: BROUGHT THE PLANTS OUT TO THE CAGE AT A LITTLE BEFORE 10AM AND LET THEM BASK IN THE 85° SUN. THE WIND WAS A LITTLE ROUGH ON THEM. IT WAS ACTUALLY THRASHING THEM BUT MY INTUITION SAID 'LEAVE THEM BE' SO I DID. I DID MORE CLEANING AND FIGURED OUT SPACING IN THE CAGE AND I MIXED A 30GAL GROW BAG AND 2 20GAL GROW BAGS WITH A 50/50 MIX OF FOX FARM OCEAN FOREST AND HAPPY FROG. SOUL WAS MIXED WITH A GRADE STAKE AFTER BEING PUT IN A GALLON AT A TIME (TO ENSURE EQUAL PARTS) AND FINALLY MISED BY HAND. TAKES A LOT OF WORK. IM NOT GOING TO BE AS PICKING WITH THE OTHER ONES. I STILL HAVE MY 50 WITH SOIL IN IT. MAINLY DUE TO LAZINESS AND THE PAIN IN THE ASS IT IS TO MOCE THE FUCKER. PLUS IF IM LOW ON SOIL (WHICH IM NOT) THAT WAS GOOD SOIL AND THE PLANT HAD NO PROBLEMS SO I GUESS IF NEEDED IT FOULD BE REUSED. I NORMALLY JUST EMPTY THAT FIRST AND MIX A SHIT TON OF SOIL IN THERE AND SHOVEL IT IN THE BAGS. THIS WAS MUCH HARDER. PLANTS GOT CLOSER TO 2 HOURS OF DIRECT SUNLIGHT BEFORE I MOVED THEM TO THE LEAN TO. I WILL UPDATE WHEN I HRING THEN IN BUT DESPITE THE HARSH SUN AND WIND THEY SEEM FINE. EDIT: BROUGHT THE GIRLS IN AT TWO BECAUSE MY WIFE HAD AN APPOINTMENT. NO DAMAGE WHATSOEVER. I THINK IF I USE THIS WEEK TO INCREASE DAYLIGHT HOURS AND UP THE WATERING THESE PLANTS WILL BE READY TO GO IN THEIR HOMES. A FEW ARE BIG AND DEF READY TO STRETCH THEIR FEET. 5/28 With the increased sun some these plants are out growing their containers. PLANTS SPENT APPROX AN HOUR AND A HALF IN DIRECT 85° SUN. EVERYTHING SEEMED FINE AND I WAS GOING TO LEAVE THEM FOR THE DAY IN THE CAGE. THEN I NOTICED THE BIG MK ULTRA'S MAIN STEM (IT GOT FIMMED BUT THE MAIN ONE) WAS STARTING TO DROOP A LITTLE. I PICKED THE PIT UP AND DESPITE A LITTLE BIT OF MOUSTURE ON THE TOP THE PIY WAS LIGHT AS A FEATHER. PLUS SETTING ON THE THEM ON THE TAR WASN'T THE BEST IDEA EITHER. I MISED UP SOME WATER AND WATERED THE PLANTS THAT SEEMED LIGHT. I NEED TO PICK UP LIKE ONE MORE BAG OF OCEAN FOREST FOR MY 50 GAL. I'M GOING TO TRY TO FINISH MY OTHER TWO 20'S AND THE TWO 10'S TONIGHT SO I'LL KNOW WHAT IM LACKING. ITS BASICALLY JUST THE 50. IF MY INTUITION SAYS ITS OK ILL TALE THE "COOLER" DAY TOMORROW AND TRANSPLANT THE THREE PLANTS TGAT ARE GETTING TO BIG FOR THERE POT. ÌF NEEDED I MIGHT GET SOME SCREENS TO USE AS A "BLIND" SO THE PLANTS DONT GO STRAIGHT TO FULL SUN ALL DAY. EDIT: TJAT HUGE MK ULTRA REVOVETED NOCELY ONCE WATERED AND PUT IN THE SHADE. IT NEEDS TO BE TRANSPLANTED. I MAY DO ITCTOMORROW. PLANTS HAVE GOT TO BE CLOSE TO HARDENED. I MIXED ALL MY SOIL AND FILLED ALL THE GROW BAGS WITH THE MIX. I FINISHED CLEANING THE CAGE AND REMOVED BAMBOO AND TRELLISING. TOMORROW IS GOING TO BE A MILD DAY AND PERFECT FOR TRANSPLANT. SOME OF THESE GIRLS ARE GETTING VERY BIG. I RAN OUT OF SOIL AFTER THE LAST 10GAL GROW BAG. ITS NOT FILLED "ALL" THE WAY AND I GAVENT FILLED MY 50 GAL. I'LL GET THE REST OF THE SOIL I NEED FOR THAT 50 TOMORROW.
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Both seedlings in peat tablets were put in an own fabric pot (15l each) on 20 Sept 2023. The soil was mixed with Top Crop Micro Vita powder (5g to15l) and put in each pot onto the layer of expanded clay balls. One leave of one of two plants was damaged, thanks to my dog. The grow-tent is IKEA tent, it is open. The temperature is a bit high, so I'm going to add a fan to make it cooler. Also reflecting coverage inside is planned.