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FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.
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@Sadom
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27.07.: Zu Beginn von Woche 6 habe ich mich dazu entschieden die G41 an dem Großteil der Triebe zu topen. Dadurch erhoffe ich mir einen buschigeren Wuchs mit mehr Trieben und mehr Zeit für die PBB in Größe aufzuholen. An den Schnittstellen, wo die Pflanze getopt wurde ist an einigen Stellen ein roter fast blutähnlicher Saft ausgetreten. Ich hab vorher noch nie gehört oder gesehen, dass das passieren kann und weiß auch nicht woher das kommt. Die PBB brauche ich nur kaum zu trainieren, da benötigt die G41 mehr Zuwendung. Da die Pflanzen größer und die Töpfe mit der Zeit immer trockener werden, verlängere ich die Gießzeit auf 5 min. 28.07.: Heute sind mir zum ersten Mal die Stempelhaare an der PBB aufgefallen. Sie ist also schon bereit für die Blüte. Ich denke, das liegt daran, dass die PBB eine fast flowering Sorte ist. Sie muss aber noch warten, bis sie ihren Platz vollständig ausgefüllt hat. 30.07.: Beide sind gut gewachsen. Die PBB konnte gut gegenüber der G41 an Höhe aufholen. Jetzt sind sie fast gleich groß. Ansonsten gibt es nicht viel zu machen oder bemerken. 01.08.: Zum Ende von Woche 6 habe ich das Scrog Netz installiert. Die kommende Woche werde ich die Triebe immer wieder unter das Netz stecken, damit niedrigere Triebe aufholen können und ein möglichst einheitlicher Wuchs entsteht. Bei der G41 gefällt mir die Anzahl der Triebe schon sehr gut, bei der PBB ist noch Luft nach oben. Ich befürchte allerdings, dass bei der PBB nicht mehr sonderlich viel passieren wird. Nächstes Update ist dann in Woche 7.
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19.01.2025 1.5L biobizz olmak üzere grow5ml bloom6ml topmax1.5ml activera1.5ml algamic1.5ml calmag3ml gübretaş olmak üzere restfull3ml micro3ml 6.42ph 2150ppm gübreli su verildi, drenajdan elde edilen suda 2640ppm 6.17ph gözlemlendi. 24.01.2025 1.5L gübretaş olmak üzere 3mlrestful 1mlmicro biobizz olmak üzere topmax3ml 6.3ph 400ppm hafif gübreli su verildi, drenajdan elde edilen 1060ppm ph6.55 olduğu gözlemlendi. 28.01.2025 1L biobizz olmak üzere 1mltopmax 1mlactivera 1mlalgamic gübretaş olmak üzere 1mlrestfull 0.5mlmicro 300ppm ph6.47 hafif gübreli su verildi. drenajdan elde edilen 6.94ph 793ppm 01.02.2025 4L ph6.11 173ppm flush drenaj 350ppm ph6.92 03.02.2025 i cut the plant..
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Great strain with Strong genetics. I'll approach this gal a little differently next time with regards to training. I topped early and this plants sativa side kicked in and grew a tall lanky legged gal 58". The quality is fire here I'd definitely train differently to get the most out of your canopy which is what I'll focus on in the future. By far the most dense and sticky buds I've grown to date and it comes on my 1st year Anniversary cultivating cannabis. Thank-you Grow Diaries for allowing me to learn from this fantastic platform as well as share the experience to others.
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day 49 just pure water phed down. it is day 51, morning before lights on, I might chop today. I use a zero water filter pitcher got off walmart. My humidifier is only a sonic wave. If you use regular tap water it will get gunky in a sonic humidifier. If you have a heat humidifier that boils the water the mist should be clean. These are the 2 types of water humidifiers. Researching best water filters this "zero water" also comes with a free ppm meter! yay! Other water pitcher brands; the water still has ppm. So water misted will still have ppm contamination. You can easily used distilled water only, and reverse osmosis. I just fill a 4gal office water jug with the pitcher and fill my humidifier when needed. I do not use a humidifier in my entire grow up to this point when I chop, I need the perfect rh or this whole effort can fail. growing up to this point only requires 20% effort, chopping now for the 2 weeks dry is this 80% of crucial determination, succeed. A lot of tasks are required today for a clean chop. I feel confident, observed my cross seeds with pink paradise and one with a slightly open caylex looks dark enough for successful germination. I figured 8-16 seeds may be created, 3-4 buds were potentially pollinated. Many growers don't understand when creating genetics with female/female there is a slight chance of herm. You lose 50% of your genetic function. Just water last 2 days, no humic no folvic, 1st time entire grow ha! There is a lot of cleaning to do, remove the trees, clean the entire tent and environment with bleach water, hacksaw. I am very proud of my grow. I have sampled 3 of the strains, dr. thunder legit made my lips numb but it could have just been the terps removing my skin cells from the sticky filter, no lie. This is my best grow to date. I did this for you, and to document hype or not under the best conditions I could give my plants, full max potential, although I wish I had more lights, I am not looking for industrial lol, this is how I grow. Learn a lot on youtube and podcasts there is many good content and I may dab into it. You can have a room full of growers and you have 1 seed in your hand, they will all tell you that their way is correct ;) and the best way. Oreo is stinky AF, Bridal is just amazing glad its massive, just not into sativa but the test seemed slight sativa with majority indica, pink untested, dr, thunder just a lip numming plant aha, its very nice, all 4 amazing appeal like advertised, and excited for next run. Either crosses from this or other copycat genetics. I will give you beautiful glamout shots today, the sizes of the plants, My guesstimate bridal 1lb, thunder 1lb, pink, 0.4lb, bridal 0.5, I am ambitious off 640w lm301h, and 4x 20w blurples daisy chained. day 51 4 chopped see you in a few weeks :D
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@BodyByVio
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The plant is drinking over 3 gallons of water every day. I’ve lowered the PPM’s to 600. Everything seems to be ok now. I will try to change the reservoir water every 5 days from now on. She started to smell amazing! Very lemony 🍋 P.S. Lowerd the TDS to 550 PPM on day 46. Also just realized that I stressed my plan with to much light. I moved the light at 13” and dimmed to 95% ... I will continue to dim it 2% every day...
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It has been a good week. The NTs are fattening and getting covered in ice! They are also loosing most of the lower leaves, I'm a bit afraid that they lose too many, I hope not! Now after two weeks of stretch it seems like they stopped ascending. I can't wait to see how this coming week will go!
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3/31: Fed today Looks like I'll have at least 8 colas that exceed 12" in length this run ..maybe more...👍 4/3: Fed today...switched to Beastie Bloomz and increased Signal. 4/5: Made adjustments to the lights to allow me to raise them another few inches. That's all folks... Increased UVB exposure another 30 minutes a day.😎 4/6: Fed today.
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MIMOSA by ROYAL QUEEN SEEDS Week #22 Overall Week #5 Flower This week everything going good she got a sweet smell to her that's amazing her bud are starting to get thicker. Overall she's doing 👍 good this week!! Stay Growing!! ROYAL QUEEN SEEDS MIMOSA
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@Just_Weed
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At the start of the week, there were no flowers and at the end tons of them. Feeding 2 times with 7l of nutrient solution at start and end of the week 1000 ppm cause when I fed few weeks before with 1200-1300 ppm tips showed burning. A very strange thing happened during the last feed when I measured 3000 ppm on runoff and ph was wine at 6.5-6. I am thinking it's probably due to Guerrilla tabs activating in huge amount. Will watch for burning and water with straight water in a few days to check runoff ppm again.
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Obvesvacion por Maceta. Maceta 1: Mucha altura y poca expancion laterales, los cobollos se ven con ojitas muy chicas y definidas, no son tan gordos y comprimidos. Satisfecho. 😃 Maceta 2: Creo que tuvo un desarrollo como espere, con cobollos lindos por el medio y una punta imponente, ¿puede que podia ser mejor? no lo se. MUY satisfecho. 😄 Maceta 3: Fue Historia. Maceta 4: Petiza, con su unica punta que es igual al cobollo a mediana altura de la maceta 2, puede que haya sido el sustrato ya que tanto la maceta 3 como esta 4 crecieron de igual manera, poco desarroyo, mismos cuidados que las demas. Por ovias razones la regaba menos ya que no consumia tanto y deje de darle productos ya que no lo veia necesario. Decepcionado. 😑 Ahora voy a Cosechar. 😎
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-Sorry I missed a week as I left town for vacation, luckily I had someone to check on them -I've been feeding once a week about 2 gallons each -I water whenever the top couple inches is dry but its been raining almost every other day so I've barely watered them -I've been using straight tap water (municipal) without dechlorinating. I was dechlorinating for 3/4 and using the 4th as a test, it showed no ill effects so I decided to not waste my time and just send it. I'ts been 2 weeks and no negative signs (touch wood) so I'll continue -I used Promix-HP as my medium, its pretty light and the girls are getting pretty tall. When I got home from my vacation I noticed they were all leaning to one side. I assumed they were leaning towards where they get the most sun so I spun them around. Doing so I noticed that they were leaning because they were top heavy and the medium wasn't dense enough to provide sufficient support. I set up the perimeter wire as you see to provide additional support and tied the stalks up with stakes. They seem pretty sturdy now. -Been getting some hot and humid days here in Ontario and they keep stretching, I'm curious as to how big they'll get before flower. -Oh and the Auto White Widow from my previous grow was planted in my flower bed and its still just vegging, hopefully it'll flower with the rest. I'm about to give her another major haircut.
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Hey hey ! I left my girls during 4 days without watering due a hospitalization ! I discovered this girl like this when I opened the room and she exploded !! Day 3 : floweeeers comin ! Day 6: little defoliation and 🍭 lollipop on this girl : she’s clean now !
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We are getting a nice quick start just like always from fastbuds. I'm starting this week now with a video of our 5 gallon home. I will add more pics through out the week. Please come back to follow along! I'm so excited about this grow! It's been a few days but I wanted to update you all. The #1 plant got eaten by something. I threw that soil out and started over again. The # 2 plant has a tap root showing and is in the pot as of today May 30th. I'm keeping a close eye on the bug situation. May 31st- the replacement seed for plant 1 has cracked open has a tail and will be popping up any time now! I do have fungus gnats, I did a soil drench with sns 709 and put out stick yellow traps. Hopefully this will do.
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23/5* Water day 275ML with Biobizz Grow and Fish-Mix -Temps 24-25 Day / 21-23 Night -Humidity 70-75% RH Correction to LST / Letting the bigger restraints go 24/5 Freed them of LST as i want to let them grow higher -Temps 24-25 Day / 21-23 Night -Humidity 70-75%RH 25/5 Showing good growth -Temps 25-27 / night 22-24 -Humidity 70-75%RH 26/5* Water day 275ML with Biobizz Grow and Fish-Mix as usual -Temps 23-25 / night 22-24 -Humidity 70-75&RH 27/5 - Got my humidity controller -Temps 23-25 / night 22-24 -Humidity 72% (+-5) 28/5 - Did some super super cropping and a bit of light "Chiropractic" (Kyle Kushman method) and a bit of lst on the branches i wanted to get more light -Temps 24-26day /22-24 night -Humidity 72% (+-5) 29/5 Water day* As a first time, i watered them before they went to bed, as i wanted to give some nutrients to get over the supercropping stress 275ML (+ 2ml/L Fish mix + 2 ml/L grow) -Temps 24-26day/22-24night -Humidity 72% (+-5) ***********I will put them into flowering in about a week*************** Light to plant distance: d.28/4 53 CM to light (kept the same distance rest of the week 1) d.2/5 50 CM to light d.3/5 42 CM to light d.7/5 40 CM to light d.19/5 38 CM to light d.22// 34 CM to light __________ My lights distance and PAR value: 24" / 60 CM = 237 PAR (umol m2s1) 18" / 45.72 CM 412 PAR 12" / 30 cm 811 PAR 6" / 15.24 CM 1816 PAR
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@Gahskel
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RLF ist immer noch hoch. Lüftung läuft auf 100% und 1 Luftentfeuchter Stein liegt drin. Tipps wie man es senken kann?