The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Well this was quite an experience, from the nice box the dutch passions come in to the germination , vigours sprouts came about, and took well to transplant. Potted each of these into their own soil and peat mix, layered seven of each i think with perlite. they got CELLMAX soil, best soil I've ever used for sure, it's horticultural soil so it's been steamed meaning no pollutants and no pests. The room itself this time i had reworked a bit, still loads of bends on the tubes though, but had a proper intake this time with a fine mesh filter so nothing got into the room. Had the pots elevated only by the time flower came around same for the CO2 so I only had a few good weeks with it. Didn't kill the plants though, so I'll review using it in my Six shooter diary, check it out . Anyway these plants veged out , and in the first weeks had the light too high for how strong/weak it was (it's crazy how close you need to have it actually!) and the little seedlings stretched some, so I LST'ed all of them. They all took to LST really well actually. The biotabs plant was the first one to sort of musle through her bindings, and i ended up feeling sorry for it and removing them thinking the bend was mostly done anyway. It didn't help that this was a corner plant and I just didnt really have access to it as nicely as the others. Anyway the LST wasnt done though and the plant fully redressed showing only a little bend towards its base at harvest time. The Mr. B's showed the best results on LST. It got bent 90° then grew out but managed to stick it's main cola out just in time i guess, so it had several mains maybe 3 maybe 4 and several side shoots. The Vertafort one took to LST the worst of the three (through no fault on vertafort's nutrient's part!) It basically got bent 90° but got held down too much by the bindings , and being a corner plant simply it got less light the whole grow, being overtaken by the other plants in the tent. Through veg though these grew to nice busheles, each in their own style, pushing out fat indica leaves , mostly being kept at appropriate VPDs. Note that the temps i've recorded are for maximum temperatures hey ! Anyway it I ended up with an uneven canopy by the start of flower stretch due to the different LST styles and the different growth rates, the vertafort one being basically stunted. During flower stretch these stretch ! lol doubled in size at a steady rate I can tell because the biotabs one was basically no longer LST'ed right? Anyway way blueberry styles not so much auto gsc styles that much I can tell you. The longer side colas a great too, they're much longer than the GSC's side colas and they have two or more flower nodes more each. By week 4 of flower the Mr. B's started to look pro, with a nice canopy and several distinguishable mains sticking out from the bush. The vertafort one was a corner plant so I just paid less attention to it - too bad for me ! Anyway the flowers themselves started to emerge with a calyx to larf ratio of 1:0 for the biotabs ones, and I started getting stoked. I could already tell from the squeeze that these would be nice and dense nuggy nug nugs just like I like them. The Mr.B's one was different though, the flowers grew all up and down the colas like they were all filled up. The sugar leafs themselves were like non-existant on Mr.B's but long and thin on the Mr.B's. Then the stacking began, last quite a while to finish up and rippen, i'd say from week 8 through 13. The trichomes reached out, filled up some, curled, in and were full white. I noticed some amber trichomes and it was time for the chop ! Throughout the grow I tried something new. From joining GD on my first grow I got loads of goodies from @Mrs_Larimar with the Mr.B's nutrients - thank you so much ! - and the biotabs contest , plus the Vertafort that came with seeds from the folks at Zambeza, Zamnesia, and RQS , all of these were dry nutrients, and I got those micro nutrients from my friends too. Great experience using dry nutrients, much more affordable on the whole, easier to measure too. That didnt stop me from messing up a few measures though ! So For most of the grow I planned to add my own micro. I had four micro powders made. One green one for early veg with all the "rare metals" in it at 2% , a bio cal mag, white powder for veg and early flower and a cal mag and mag sulfur I meant to use during flower. So I ended up giving a quarted dose of the organic cal mag most of the time then in flower still had them on a quarter dose of cal mag sulfur before i realised and switched up too late. My whole micro line up i think would cost 10 dollars retain and I had plenty of it left over i think it should last like 4 grows. Not that I'll use it again unless i can get a steady supply - a the travails of the underground micro nutrient market. Worked great though, pH neutral, i used it as spray too, next time I'll mix in humic acid directly in the same feed, because why not and because I would have massively helped. Sometimes in flower i used only calmagsulfur and maybe I didnt mix it in very well but i would dump everything on anyway , a couple time I would check after water and the clumps had formed like 3 inch crystal formations on the top of my soil... Anyone ever seen that before? maybe it's a good sign idk, i usually tried plain water to dissolve them asap. The biotabs worked great on the Colorado cookies though, that much I can say, no excesses of any sort detected, leaves weren't too dark green at all. Mr.B's turned out a BEAST , but that could be from the LST aswell... the vertafort one ended up being a very healthy plant that never lacked anything either. Around halfway through flower I started traing the colas upwards where they were drooping on the biotabs plants and the Mr.b's plant, glad i did because i think plants like to make colas going straight up right? Chopped these at the top of week 14 which is 95 days from the moment i dunked them into the water kept a calendar which I'll show you. Hung to dry for 10 days, then jarred with the 62% boveda, burped inspected daily for a week, then weekly for two weeks. I weighted what I kept lol , no small buds this time, finally my grower dream realized ! So happy i got two (maybe three phenos) because I loved the flowers on the biotabs but I also loved the yielding of the LST'ed pheno. Plenty of wasted cola space though if I'm honest, should have defoliated more, maybe done that just at the edge of veg or something, maybe next time I'll try to flux like @silky_smooth so I can keep them in veg longer and make me a couple beasts. Had to travel to for two halfway through, so what I did was to put perlite in the trays, get the pots off their grills and onto the perlite then i bottom fed plain water, the idea being that the perlite would keep the water from evaporating from the trays too quickly, just as i was loading up the trays , the nex day I saw three thrips but they were flying all wierd and all strange so i thought maybe the airflow was f-ing them up ... and i had to leave anyway. Got back and the pots were bone dry but the plants hadn't died, and the temps were way up. I think the remaining perlite absorbs heat... Anyway started top feeding them again but by this time they were showing signs of stress especially the biotabs one, the mr.b's kinda recovered, and the vertafort was healthy enough it just looked like a bit of magnesium issue. May this could be a good technique for other folks to try. Like i said the perlite might absorb heat, so remove it when you dont need it anymore (i had issues with heat). Over all these gens are yielders, had some of my best work in here, and some less good work. I like having been able to use the GD platform as a companion app, was great fun really. it's great to be able to put all your pictures up and see them side by side, i tried to keep it organised so you and I can see some interesting things like the "three stages of LST" and other interesting nuggets of info. Speaking of nuggets I'll try to get some more and some better pics of the nugs in. Hope you'll visit this again 🚀 EDIT: made some bubble hash for the first time, grower's priviledge ! only used the stems stalks and leafs for it, and it came out really delicious, smells like perfume, burns like incense and tastes like vanila and spices/hash lol basically used some bubble bags , rand the water through once, got negligeable 120s 75s and 45s but got some 25 quite a lot. ran it again, same results with just about the same amout of 25s, i thought i could go a third one, but got negligeable everything lol. Two passes for whatever that is in bubble hash lol, it's still got to dry for another week - bubble hash is kinda of the grower's priviledge, definitely recommend doing it ! 🚀
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All 3 girls made it, one of them seems to be a bit slow. I noticed they all grew a bit slow and I assume this is due to not using any DYNOMYCO mycorrhizal inoculant. Will definitely try it again on the next run to test it.
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so week 11.. The gorillaz are carrying on beautifully, however I realised having 5 plants sharing one reservoir is now quite a bad idea.. 2/5 of them look to be well into flower, fattening up and some tri's starting to turn cloudy but look like theres still plenty of fattening up to do. The other 3 are now just beginning to fully pistil up so will still be requiring flowering nutes when I should be beginning a flush on the other 2.. any comment or advice on this would be greatly appreciated!? The Stardawgs have basically grown into tennis balls. Such a vast majority of bud sites all the way down look so much larger than I could ever have hoped and i've had to tie some of the buds to the main colas!! I will Be starting the flush this week as most Tri's are now cloudy i'd say around 4/5 currently but more throrugh macros will be taken as the days progress. The only problem i've had is some of the sugar leaves on 2 of the plants have really taken a beating and show some strange signs. I think the LED's aren't to be under estimated and i've battled some burning and what seems to be calmag issues through the grow.
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June 7 - We ordered some new lights last week, they are 240w kingbrite samsung lm310h with uv/ir, 3000k, and meanwell drivers. We setup the new room and moved the girls into there. After a bit of LST and a watering (with nutrients) at roughly 7ph, they were ready to go under the 2 new lights and the same SF-1000 we have been using in this grow. The new room is a 12 ft enclosed trailer. I moved everything from the small tent into this. I put clear poly on the walls, floor and ceiling. I put poly on the shelf I am going to be keeping in there as well. I bought 50ft of 6mm mylar and lined the floors, roof and sides with it. I plan to get some reflective tape to seal everything and to cover the wood. I did not get much of a chance to watch temp's today as they it was later in the evening after all was said and done. The inline fan blowing in air from outside. June 8 - 9 AM i checked the plants, they were at 25.2 and 50% RH. Late through the day I had checked and we had gotten up to around 32 degrees. So I moved the inline fan to the closer vent, hooked up to that, and had the air blowing out of the trailer with the inline fan sucking it from above the lights. I then added oscillating fan and had it blowing air on the left side of the room so it would somewhat circulate once I closed the doors. I then checked at about 9pm and we were at 22 degrees. Definitely noticed a decent amount of growth already. I have the lights on a 22/2 cycle as I was worried about the heat at night time. June 9 - Some great growth from the girls, still having problems controlling the temps in the afternoon. I decided to prop the door open a bit to have a constant breeze throughout the day while I am at work. Decided to do some more LST and also a bit of defoliation. I took about 25% of the leaf's that were blocking the new growth as it was getting a bit bunched up. I was then told the leaf's are almost solar panels for them. So from now on I will be trying to just do some tucking unless needed. The leaf's I removed were most of the damaged leaf's, I am not to sure if that makes much of a difference. I gave them a watering with only water as there is a potential I am getting a bit of a nutrient buildup along with the PH problem. Or potentially the reason for the ph problem is nutrient buildup. After watering with A PH of 7 I got some run off and tested it. The smaller plant gave me a PH of about 5.5 where the bigger one is around 5.0. June 10 - Plants are looking happy and showing tons of growth. Seems to be trying to stretch outwards. Not a ton of sign of PH issues showing so potentially getting it under control. Still a bit of damage to previous leaf's but it is what it is! The last few days I have been leaving the door open a bit in order to keep the temps down. I decided to test something and turn the lights off (automatically) at 11AM and back on at 5PM so light schedule has now changed to 18/6 and it seems I may have figured out the issue. We haven't had lots of sun the last couple days so it hasn't been to hard and I have yet to know if it truly fixed the heat issue for now. (I will be looking into a ac unit as well since it typically gets to around 30-35 around here. June 11 - Pulled some of the branches back down and added a few more LST spots. Seems we have a good amount of growth from the smaller plant out of the 2 topped spots. Unfortunately it looks like I fucked up on the bigger plant and only one of the nodes seems to have new growth. I will continue to monitor that but I think I cut the node to low and also to soon. Other then that, the girls are doing great. They seem to be absolutely loving these new lights. I gave them some nutrient water today as well. roughly 3L each. They seem to be A hell of A lot more thirsty under these new lights. June 12 - The girls are doing great , they are still just doing growing away. Lots of progress everyday. I am going to be getting a go-pro so I can set-up a time-lapse for the rest of this grow. I received my new inline fan, I got A ac infinity CLOUDLINE T4 with the temperature humidity controller. I am going to be having one fan pushing fresh air in and one fan pulling out the hot air. I will be doing that tomorrow since I have to work today. June 13 - I ordered another 50ft of mylar and that showed up today. I have decided to remove the shelf and add another 3+ feet to the grow space. So today I installed more poly, mylar, the ac infinity fan. I have it set-up to pump in air if it gets to warm. I am thinking of switching it to the output that way if it gets to hot or to humid I can have that air pulled out of the trailer. Right now my other inline fan is the outtake and I just have it set on full. Overall I think everything is set-up a bit better and more accessible. I will be putting my 2x2 tent in there at the left of the doors so I can have a veg room when these 2 are in flower. I plan to have 4 in veg and 4 in flower for the next grow. Still waiting on JOTI seeds, ordered 3 weeks ago and still have not been shipped. I will be getting those going the moment they arrive. The girls seem to be happy still, did a bit more LST to try to keep everything even, mainly I'm just pulling down on the spots I already have tie wire on.
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@SooSan
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High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.
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June 25 - transplanting to 35 LT pot! 💣🔞 June 27 - LST&HST Day! 💚 June 28 - The plant is growing great and fastly! 🛫
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🍼Greenhouse Feeding BioGrow ☀️ by VIPARSPECTRA (models: P2000 & XS 2000) ⛺️MARSHYDRO The ⛺️ has a small door 🚪 on the sides which is useful for mid section groom room work. 🤩 🌱 by ‘GARDEN OF GREEN’
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Week 15 / 6th week in bloom :) One more week done, and even closer to harvest! Both my girls are looking great and starting to smell quite strong, I just love it!
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@Biglskin
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Day 35 of flower, still another 35 days to go and I’m seeing some early fading mostly on the lemon tree.. I’m not sure if they’re just hungry or stressed from something else :/ The sour kosher #1 has started to droop around the top leaves only.. doesn’t seem too close to the lights and is deffo got enough water. The 24k gold #1 is the tallest but developing very slowly with airy/leafy buds. Other than that the buds seem to be developing well and the smells are getting stronger by the day! Happy growing into 2022 peeps
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So like I said last week, this is definitely not an autoflower..10 weeks of veg in a one gallon container, it makes absolute, you know sense, and the second I flipped her, she flipped... So at this point i'm just hoping it's still purple haze... i will say she's been happy and she's growing right along, as you can tell she's crowning nicely, and she's stacking fairly quickly for what's supposed to be a heavier sativa leaning plant ... by the looks of her plant leaves, she looks like a right down the middle of the road hybrid.. As long as when she's all said and done, she looks and smokes good.You won't hear me complain... I really hope everyone is doing well. God bless and a happy growing ✌️
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@Visions
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Overall a fun and enjoying flower of the purple sunset. She transitions quickly and stretchs fast. Being an indica hybrid she doesn't get too tall, thus creating strong and sturdy branches to hold her fast dense frosty nugs. During the stretch she loves a good amount of grow notes. Week 2 to 4 she starts getting picky. Once she starts to fade, it is time to drop the grow nutes and go into full bloom early in week 4. This cultivar shows more phenotypical expressions depending on climate and flush. She shows huge purple hues in flush. Allowing her to go into week 9 to 11 can result in almost purple buds. She has a nice term profile in flower and once in the jars. Sweet candy grape 🍇 purple punch notes on the nose and on the pallette when exhaling on the smoke. When trimming this girl she was. Breeze to trim. She got a good 8 to 9 days to dry and was then sweat in the jars. When you smoke Ethos purple sunset the indica really hits you like a train. Taking her down at day 52 was a good choice. The high feels like any of the high once u smoke it. You don't start to notice the stoned effects until you're halfway through a big bowl with your partner. As you guys finish, you notice the body stone take in effect as well the heavy chest and trachea feeling which I LOVE. A sense of happiness and relaxation set in almost immediately. Very enjoyable indica high with great terps. I would give it a 10 but that maybe next run once grow her to week 10 flower. Overall Ethos purple sunset delivers. Fast flowering monster that delivers on extreme levels of frost and terp profiles. Don't believe? Pictures show it all. Please follow and like the purple sunset remix diary for a full grow of this upcoming beast put into full beast mode. P.s. perfect night cape if you are tired. Sleepy side will take you under 😂
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Good week, they're happy to be in larger pots. Used Coast of Maine Bar Harbor Blend potting soil. Got some new growth coming in, especially on the redder one. Big Bloom this week. Seriously considering putting them in the ground soon despite cold nights. They want the sun!
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@daythemn
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There's a blank week, sorry about that. There are detailed pictures and explanations of the current situation. At this point, the older plant seems to be doing fine. However, the younger plant's growth has definitely slowed down. Suspecting potassium deficiency, that's why I increased the nutrient amount. But K deficiency might not be the only thing that's wrong. My pH levels should be fine, got a new meter and did calibrations regularly.
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@SilverBud
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I had to defoliate major part of the leaves, due to week lights that I have. She wasn't getting light at the bottom down. Hope she recover