28.8 Eight flowering week done also week of flush. These are frosty as f*** man crazy. Especially that fat leafed girl wow 😍 Buds are quite spindly I'd say but man looks potent. Nothing much to report just been drooling haha.. About week that to do and then it's harvest time.. Let'see

Buds should be dried in the dark at 20 degrees in 50% humidity 👌

Another Defoliation at the end of stretch this week for the Northern and she's now in full bud mode at end of Week 8. 3-4 left I think before the chop and she's just a happy monster. Buds forming nicely on't Chemdawg despite a bit of Nutrient Burn on some of the leaves. Skipped a feed last week and replaced with Molasses only just to help her fight off the excess 2nd Chemdawg looks like she will bud from head to toe a fairly straight forward week for all the girls but started to stink and show their flowers nicely. Head over to www.autobeastmethods.com to find out how you can learn to Maximise your Autoflower. Head to the Forum and say Dr AutoDevil sent you. Happy Growing Gang Everyday Growing is a Day Learning 💚😈 www.instagram.com/AutoBeastMethods Videos of the tent available on my IGTV just too big to upload here they keep crashing.

may 11: looks like week 2 flowering may 15: defoliation and buds start to form

She truly might be becoming the Gorilla that was promised, huge leaves. Not as pungent or bushy as the Orange Hill beside her but she seems to get there. I'm finally seeing some exponential growth, I'm going to give them as much rest as I can coming weeks to maximize growth before flowering and to prevent (hopefully) them going hermie on me, which both Gorillas and Orange Hill Special are prone to. I have made a video to thank them for letting me use their SP-3000. What a beast of a light!! Thanks again @MarsHydroLED for letting me test this awesome light! I have made a new layer of topsoil made of organic coco-peat, which should help me prevent more fungus gnats. They already seem to hate it and are wandering around in agony trying to dig in... Good for them, freeloading beastards. Now we go to flowering coming weeks, and I can't wait... Thanks for checking in and the likes and support!

Vibe: 😍

Not much footage of that week. Rapidly turning purple now

I use clear cups to see when the roots are hitting the side wall so I know when to transplant. (Cups are inside another dark cup so no light hits the root zone) They were pretty well rooted up by day 9 and I was able to transplant into my 5 gallon AC Infinity Fabric Pot. Still going super light on the nutrient mix because the soil is mixed well with additives. When I transplanted I was sure to hit the root zone throughly with Mykos Mycorrhizae Granular and Great White. Soil mix: 25% Fox Farm Happy Frog 25% Worm Castings 25% Fox Farm Ocean Forest 25% Peralite 1/4 cup of Mykos Mycorrhizae Granular mixed into soil. This little plant is now 100% into this soil blend and hopefully starts to explode! That’s why I’m going so light on my feedings.

First off, that mf holds it's name very well. The smell on that strain is phenomenal. Much of fruity citrus and earthy notes and that's without the curing. I smoked a bit to get a taste. Smoke and taste quite harsh but that should go away with the curing. I harvested 634g wet, including a lot of stems, and ended up with 121g dried. they lost 80% of their mass and I might have over-dried them since I expected to get more tbh. However that's more than enough to get me through next harvest. The 3 plants turned out to be pretty different phenotype. All over pretty great but one could have used denser buds. They don't have the same maturity which means I got buds for all occasions. Kept the trimmings in the freezer for an hour and also harvested 0.67g of kief with a 220 micron bag. A lot of impurities but that was to be expected. I don't think the calcium problem has had a significant impact. Overall very happy with the product and the experience.

This Mystery seed grow #1 is very nearly finished! She will be taken down once I'm satisfied with the ratio of trichomes. I'm leaving this one a bit longer than I usually would, just to see the difference in effects of a later harvest. I do need the space in the tent, so I'm hoping it won't take too much longer. The leaves are losing all of their colour, and this is the first time I've had any "fade". I've had a lot of issues with what I believe is an excess of phosphorus. I had Phosphorus excess in this grow before, and I think that's what's happened again. I believe the Excess of Phosphorus has prevented the plant from being able to uptake Calcium, Magnesium and others. I have learned many lessons again, and plan to avoid these mistakes with my grows presently. 8.5.25: The plant was watered with 2ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6. This may be the last watering before she's done. I added per litre; ♡ 4ml Ecothrive Trace ♡ 1/2 TSP Sea K(elp) PPM: 715 PH: 6.3. ☆ Xpert Nutrients PH down, up to 1ml. ☆ Ecothrive Neutralise 1 drop per litre from the 1ml pipette, which is attached. This is my dechlorinator. Thanks for following along with this plant 😊💚✌️🍃

Day 20 since time change to 12 / 12h. Hey everyone ☺️. This week she continued to develop very well 🤗. It absorbs the nutrients from Green Buzz Liquids very well. I am very thrilled . otherwise there is nothing more to report this week 🙈. I wish you a nice week, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 🍀 You can buy this Strain at https://thecaliconnection.com/original-sour-diesel.html You can buy this Nutrients at https://greenbuzzliquids.com/ Type: Original Sour Diesel ( Clone ) ☝️🏼 Genetics: Fem seeds- Original Sour Diesel to Original Sour Diesel BX3 RVSD Male Reg seeds- Original Sour Diesel x Original Sour Diesel BX3 Male 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green Buzz Liquids : Organic Grow Liquid Organic Bloom Liquid Organic more PK More Roots Fast Buds Humic Acid Plus Growzyme Big Fruits Clean Fruits Cal / Mag Organic Ph - Pulver ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 - 0.4 EC. Add Cal / Mag 2 ml per l water every 2 waterings . Ph with Organic Ph - Pulver to 5.8 .

Really happy with the ladies buds are filling out beautifully smelling pungent and strong and buds are super sticky really can't wait to take these ladies down now the flush begins 💪🤙

High Growmies ! Ich werde die tage nochmal entlauben und schauen wie sie den organisch Bio canna verarbeitet und ob ich Mängel evtl. Entdecke. Auch werde ich mit Garten Draht noch Äste am hauptstamm stabilisieren. Ich hoffe so das sie purple wird

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Hello my friends 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾, This 8th flowering week was good 👊, maturation Buds continue 🌲❄️, I thought it will be the last week, but need one more. The end is for this week end I think, for moment trichromes not really full milky, and I like something like 20% amber. I've started flush with flash cleaner The senesence is started on the #3. 💦 1 Watering this week 1.8l/plant . Water + flash cleaner PH@6 Lamp @100% Bisous 💋😘, and see you next week. Thanks community for follow, likes, comments, always a pleasure 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾❤️🌲 Mars Hydro - TS 1000 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ts-1000-led-grow-light Mars Hydro - FC3000 https://www.mars-hydro.com/fc-3000-samsung-lm301b-led-grow-light Mars Hydro - SP3000 https://www.mars-hydro.com/sp-3000-samsung-lm301b-greenhouse-led-grow-light The High Chameleon - Bisous Au THC 💋💋🌲🌲😘😘 https://www.thehighchameleon.com/shop/bisous-au-thc-83

Week 11. Day 35 roughly, most of these are 63-70

Vamos familia tercera semana de floración de estás apollo black cherry de SeedStockers. Que ganas tengo de ver el progreso de esta variedad, las plantas están sanas, se ven con buen color. La cantidad de agua cada 48h entre riegos. Esta semana añadimos nutrientes de la gama Agrobeta. Las plantas están bastante bien ya llevan una semana en 12 horas de luz 12 oscuridad. Estas próximas semanas veremos como avanzan. Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨

** COST ** TO RUN - Used previous ⛺️ setup : $0.00 - Monthly electricity : $36.73 <-- other ladies sharing ⛺️ - 3 Gallon Fabric pot : $0.15 - Bonsai wire : Apx. $0.03 - Reused soil from last run : $0.00 FOR NUTRIENTS - Jadam Microbial Solution : $0.00 - Fermented Plant Juice : $0.00 APPLYING - JMS : 30ml / 1 Litter - FPJ : 30ml / 1 litter TOTAL COST : $36.91 Throughout the week, I give compost tea, and fermented plant juice once each ^^ Hope you guys have a wonderful day today ^^v *** Please Like, comment & share *** Highly appreciated -----/-----<@

Another week, some more training, and girls seem healthy and green. No real clear signs of flower yet, meaning it may be bigger girls. Hopefully nice growth in the next week as well. Will continue to water when dry at a PH of 6.2-6.8, with decholrinated tap water and, keeping bottom of fabric pots wet to encourage root growth. Also keeping top soil moist and making sure they are getting decent light exposure. Will be amending top soil around and of week 5. Otherwise been easy and just monitoring heat and humidity. So far been easy to maintain 50-55% and temps from 22-24C during day. Sits between 19-20C at night. Continue to pull top sites down with LST and a couple leaves here and there, but otherwise usually tuck leaves under prime bud sites. I've decided another grow light would be the best way to go. I have bought another light and will update the diary next week with that information!