The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Buds are getting ripe. Pistils are 75% brown and trichomes on buds have amber and are cloudy and sugar leaves have 30% amber. Flushing next week for a few days then chopping.
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Dense colas smells very nice wine gums ...not impressed wit her structure though
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Que pasa familia, vamos con la tercera semana de vida de estas Papaya sherbet feminizada de fastbuds. Vamos al lío, de las 3 plantas, me quedaré con 2 por espacio, siempre pongo alguna semilla de más por si no abriese alguna por no perder ese hueco del indoor. También se trasplantaron a su maceta definitiva, en este caso de 7 litros. El ph se controla en 6.2 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 20/22 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨
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@geegee
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Very bushy ,not stretching at all ,basicly was node after node with zero space in between
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@CalGonJim
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1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY MEDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂 1/18 11:58AM. BRAM STOKERS TRAILER PARK DRACULA........I SHOULD BE WORKING ON THE PLANTS BUT THIS IS REALLY GOOD. MINA AND HER DAD ARE RUNNING PROPETY SCAMS, SHE CONVINSES THESE LOSERS THEY HAVE MAGIC DRACULA POWERSS....AND WE STEAL THEIR TRAILLER. REINFEILD RANDY , JULIANFIGURES IT OUT AND BLACKMAILS BOTH OF THEM. AND MUSICAL GUEST KISS!! A GREAT HALLOWEEN EPISONDE.... OH I FORGOT I AM SUPOSSSED TO BE GRWOING PIT.
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@Benzels
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Well its a late update from down under.. and its been shit. No other words for it. After all that un seasonal tropical rain a month back my Caramelo was hating life with water logged roots and was wilting badly for more days than id like, she recovered just fine... or so I thought. Thats when I noticed the Spider mites and a small patch of mould rot on a pre flower bud, so I grabbed my trusty Lime Sulfur bottle and made up what I THOUGHT was my usual 1/2 strength mix to use.....But turns out due to a new smaller bottle and me using the wrong mix to start with (I normally use 1/2 the 30ml per lt mix for seedlings even on fully mature plants to avoid burning em, But I used the 50mls per ltr ratio at what I thought was 1/2 strength) AND my old bottle turns out to be 1.25ltrs and my new one was 750mls!! So long story finalized is I used 1.25 X the normal strength mix and burnt the shit out of ALL new shoots and pre flowers. Thus why im only posting a vid of the cat with the ZkittleZ who is loving life harder than any plant Ive had before -So will be focusing a bit more on her for a while now.
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Everything is going well and running its course. Will stop feeding with grow big going forward. Photos/video taken 98 days after breaking soil, day 35 of flower.
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Its the last week befor we Flash. I love the buds, they are fat like a cola can. They smell like lemon, its a crazy pheno
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@SgtD1377
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Sorry I didn’t keep taking pics in between. This was from yesterday March 15th, day 70. Checked trichomes and they’re about 80%milky. They’ll start getting just water on Monday. Everything has required stakes for support. The ripleys og has weak branches so they need support but the alien v triangle needs support just from the weight of the buds!
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@OS_Farmz
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All plants are looking quite good exept one goofy plant in the right corner. This week is the last for vegetation period. Jah bless the one reading this.
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@Organic_G
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Wachsen soweit super, kein Top Dressig kein anderen Dünger sonst verwendet, Erde einmal angereichert und läuft Super sind Glücklich. Hätte tatsächlich nicht gedacht das die das Zelt nochmal so füllen würden wie beim Run zuvor mit 6 Pflanzen aber da haben wir es… werden morgen von unten nochmal leicht entlaubt ansonsten war’s das bis zur Ernte. Nothing to do at this point.
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Just starting , This is my soil mix! Only took two days to break soil pretty sweet!!
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@Ninjabuds
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Skunk apple runtz I'm probably only going to keep 1 of these guys seeing the 2nd just has really bad growth so far. I'm sad about this I made this cross out my last grow and was hoping for the better end of things. The other plants is decent but we will see I hope it has the growth pattern of the lit farms Rick bobby and the bud structure of the obama runtz I grew It's looking like a good start to a week the plants are strong they are getting to the point I can let the dried dry out completely. I'm thinking by the end of this week the plants will be starting to be sold. Last week I put all the plants into my bigger 2x4 tent with my medicgrow mini sun 2 the 500w version. Only a few of the plants were ready for that light. Seems like the only plants that really have good resistance and have a strong start are the weedseedsexpress.com seeds. Shout out to weedseedsexpress.com for the strong plants. I ended up putting all the plants back into my 2x2 tent with the 55w amazon light it has alot more blue light in its spectrum. It's kinda weird b4 I switched the plants to the 2x4 tent they were getting 220umol under my amazon 55w led then when I put them under the 500w light 25% strength about 50in from plants and they were getting only about 195umol in that tent but it was stressing most the plants. I assume a larger light has more side lighting hitting the plants. I think when useing larger lights it's good to measure umols from the top but also coming from the sides. I think durring seedling stage they only need about 50% the umols coming from the side the plants as the top is receiving. When I put the plants back in the small tent about the same umols as they were getting b4 the switch and they were still a little stressed. So for a few days I put the small light at the top the tent giving them 100umols for a few hrs then 130umols the rest the day.
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@creichs
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Got the screen in this week and managed to weave the plant into it somewhat Switched to flowering this week and can already see it starting to stretch Cant wait to start seeing some buds