2/12 Week 7 Hairs beginning to show up more each day and the growth tips are transforming. Continuing to encourage bushing by defoliating the top canopy every couple of days. Lots of bud sites in their future. Lowering Nitrogen by putting them on all Bloom nuets , prob should have done that weeks ago. 29 inches high no sign of slowing. No problems unless we hit 40 inches. Then I gotta think 😣 Don't see any reason to worry stretch should end in a week to 10 days or less and there are a few things I got up my sleeve. Actually these are the kinds of problems I signed up for and Ive nothing to complain about, this stuff is fun. 😁 Here's hoping for a big arsed harvest! I was asked why I am letting the lower end of the plants get so over grown. The idea is that this will slow down the upward growth and maybe get them to bush more later. When the room exists in the flower tent that will be cleaned up. Hitting them with the kangaroots again one last time in the morning to see if we can get those root balls expanded for bud building. 2/13 Pics Starting to get some height differences(less than 2 inches) between the plants under the LED and those under the HPS so I have changed the HPS out for a MH light to slow down the height gains in the flowering tent. Their nodes could use some shortening. Have other reasons but thats it for this grow. Hung a small 2700K 30 watt LED directly over Aeryn out of the path of the main light to give her just a bit more red spectrum. Not much but something. 2/14 Rearranged the tent to give better access to the photos and allow better hanging of the small LED and give a bit more light from the MH. Runoff tested on all plants and ranged from 550-600 ppm which just leaves us all kinds of room later for more nuets. Heck this is perfect 2/17 Stepping down the nuets slightly 2/19 End week note: Finally see some very slight nitrogen def on Aeryn so nuets back up, found the bottom end of of it. Folding in PK at a low dose Flipped week back to veg, only in flower the last day or so of the week

Bud washing is still fairly controversial. I do it because this is a personal crop, i dont have much time or space to toss a plant that might show a bit. Jorge Cervantes does it, so can I! Updates to come!

Week 3 = Defoliation!

Flush with 12L of water PH 6.4 to each plants. Then, wait 15min and add 6L to each plants. Purple color have been started to show!

November 6, 2021 They are both still going. The Blackberry is starting to foxtail. I still don't see any amber trichomes and I have not seen the calyx's swell yet. These plants have 2 more weeks max. As soon as the photos are ready to flip to flower, I'm harvesting these autos - ready or not.

90x60x140 (Mars Hydro) FC-E4800 (Mars Hydro) Easy2go Aquavalve5 (Autopot) Living Soil (Demetearth) Bruce Banner (PEV Seed) Gorilla GG4 (Ganja Farmer) Cream Caramel (Sweet Seed) Gorilla Gelato (Ganja Farmer) Blueberry (00 Seed) Kalini Asia (Zamnezia) Biscotti Mintz (Barney's Farm) Blackberry Cake (Sensi Seed) Amsterdam Amnesia (Dutch Passion) Gelato Cookie (Ganja Farmer) Purple OG Punch (Ganja Farmer) Sweet ZZ (RQS) Rainbow Road (Paradise Seed) Substrat ~50L: 30L Super Light Mix Biotechnologie 18L coco 2L perlite 1,7kg lombricompost 350g guano de chauve-souris 350g Zéolithe 350g Basalte 170g guano vers de farine 170g biochar 0,7g Endomychorise glomus intraradices 0,7g Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens Paillage de luzerne alfalfa Arrosage avec 2ml/L de mélasse de canne 1x par semaine Pulvérisation avec 1% d’huile de neem

4/5BW. Es läuft alles nach Plan!, die ersten Härchen färben sich Orange/braun, der Geruch nimmt immer mehr zu im Zelt und die Pflanze kommt ihrem Ende immer näher :) Die Strawberry Cola Sherbet gehört auf jeden Fall zu meinen Favoriten. Der Ph wert ist gut, die Erde ist sehr gut durchwurzelt, bei der SBCS muss ich bei dem 20L Topf alle 1/5-2Tage gießen, muss ich sogar weil die Erde dann schon komplett durch trocknet ist 🙈. Ich fahr jetzt übers Wochenende weg.. Ich hoffe das mir die Pflanze nicht eingeht 🙏🏻🙏🏻 Wir haben jetzt auch das volle Sortiment an Dünger dazu gegeben. 4ml/L Alga Bloom - 1ml/L Sugar Royal und auch 1ml/L Green Sensation, alle Produkte sind von Plagron ?🏻

A good week for ICC photo. I topped her and started bending branches for some horizontal development. Once she’s covering the entire pot with some budsites and tops I will let her start stacking nodes vertically. I am using “garden hooks” I’ve made with metal food skewers and will use those to bend and guide branches outwards. Feed is the same really and I am really digging it so far, Gaia green and coco loco for a supersoil type grow in regards to waterings and feeds. No ph checking, no dechlorinating water, just tapwater and a few add ins like fishshit and recharge, a seaweed/kelp foliar, and worm castings/topdresses. Trying this routine out and hope to be able to reamend the pot and drop again. This plant is in midweek5 of veg and has about 6-8 weeks to go before I can flip her to flower.

Day 31 / 01.05. The Plants really have taken off with growth since I turned on the autopot system, even the Super Lemon Haze which seemed to be growing quite slow in the beginning. I filled the reservoir on day 28 with an EC of 1.7 mS/cm. Currently I am fighting a bit with the humidity as it tends to rise quite a bit.

Buds are fattening up pretty well and I've had to use more rubber garden wire and clips to keep the branches from bending over. Smell is increasing on the Northern Light but still a mild skunk on the Black Devil. Also gave the very last feeding on the plants this week so they will get nothing but water until the chop. I'm very happy with the microbe populations so I stopped feeding the sugars (molasses/agave) as the plants themselves don't get much out of them; that stuff is just for feeding the soil beasties. I had added some predatory mites several weeks ago to deal with some springtails, and the mites annihilated the population. I did find a developing larva though so there are still some around. Posted lots of microscope videos today.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Smoke: -Potency 8.5/10: First its going head pretty strong and ruin your short term memory but not super energetic after about 30-45min its start to feel very stony and lazy. -Smell 8/10: Earthy with hint of sweet and sour cream, pretty loud. -Taste 8/10: Earthy inhale and earthy/sour cream exhale no sweetness there anymore. -Bag appeal 9.5/10: Beauty semi hard nugs with nice amount trichs and pretty loud smell. -Yield 9.5/10: 190gr from 1 plant. Better defoliation and opening up could yield some more.

Dear team TrolMaster Europe, We would like to express our sincere gratitude for providing us with the Tent-X controller. We are delighted with its functionality and performance! We are confident that this controller has significantly aided us in our journey with our beloved plant Jealousy from Zamnesia.💪🤝 We were pleasantly surprised by the efficiency and ease of use of the Tent-X. It seamlessly integrated into our plant care system and helped us achieve incredible results. Once again, thank you very much for your support and high-quality equipment. We are immensely satisfied with your product and hope for long-term cooperation in the future. Today marks the end of our journey with Jealousy from Zamnesia💚, and we want to express our heartfelt gratitude to Zamnesia for their support throughout this entire journey. We also want to extend our thanks to Plagron for providing us with their high-quality fertilizers. Their products are not only effective but also incredibly easy to use. We highly recommend them to everyone!

Thanks for tuning in again. The ladies have been flipped. Few days before i have been adjusting my light schedule by reducing the light period by 15 every day to get them accustom to the longer nights. must say that the RH in the tent which used to be around 65 on a good day is now around 70%. Will have to ring out the dehumidifier. They are still on the same water regime but i think during this flower period they consume more water. Also I am unsure how to properly defoliate these ladies. So much mixed literature on the topic. I need to though as the girls are getting bushy and I have found some leaves on laying on top of other leaves and forming wet surfaces. A prime environment for PM and other shit that wanna mess with my harvest.

- Day 59 A new week already! Buds are fluffing up nicely, they look like they are getting very dense. There is some more leaves yellowing, which is clearly because of N deficiency. Hopefully that bio-grow boost I gave her yesterday will get her a bit greener again soon. I've been trying to go more gentle with the bio-grow this run because my previous grow has dark clawing leaves tips all over at the end of the grow, as I was giving too much. But it seems like now I was giving too little. 😬Note to self: next grow start with lower doses like this grow, but build up when stretch starts to happen. Day 61 Pot was dry again, right on time! Gave her 2.6L today (6.4 ph) containing Calmag, bio-grow, bio-bloom & top-max. Did some light defoliation, mostly got rid of the yellow leaves. Those buds are really fattening up now! Day 62 I lowered the lights down a bit, as the leaves seem to be able to take it. Lowered it down to 29cm, top buds are now getting a bit over 1000 PPFD Day 64 She is still drinking a lot, pot was dry again. Gave her 2.1L today containing bio-grow, bio-bloom, top-max, bio-heaven, alg-a-mic & acti-vera. Day 65 Looking good! I can tell the buds are very dense when I gave them a squeeze. Gonna try and make my first trichome pics as we go towards the final weeks.

Hello growers. Week 3 of 12/12, we have around 25-30 sites developing. She needs around 1.5L of water a day now (run off is giving me 1000ppm) . The soil is testing 6.5 so happy days. I took two clones for the smaller sites that didnt reach canopy level last week and they have been in a dome for a week looking healthy. Hopefully they root this week and I'll move them into some smaller pots to run this girl back in my other tents asap.

Bud development going strong this week, seeing lots of sugar leaves and new bud sites forming each day. Hoping to see the buds stack a little more soon. All seven plants are in flower now, this purple trainwreck plant being the furthest along. She should have another 4-6 weeks left before her chop.

Doubled her height this week.... from 3cm to 6cm 😂 but she pushed out a fair few leaves into the process. Going well so far.

Day 40 from sprout: The watering helped the 30gal out after 1 day. 3/30 and 4/1 i topped each plant and continue to tuck leaves. Some defoliation on the lower fan leaves that were touching the medium a bit. I will defoliate a little more this week. Scrog will come out in another week or so. I am seeing some canoeing at the very top of each plant. Could be a pH thing or from heat but chances are its a pH thing. I'll keep an eye on it and lower the water pH i am giving it if it persists. Gave the 2L pot some water (a little top and mostly bottom water) on 4/1. Medium was looking very dry on top but wasnt showing signs of needing water so i didnt give it much.