"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

Beginning of week.. I raised the lights a little.. They are at 50% power at 18" (roughly) from the plants. The ladies are getting from 420 to 500 PPFD. Went ahead and fed them some extra FloraMicro this week.. I'm guessing they are just very hungry girls.. And I'm thinking the pH in the rootzone issue is not clearing up at all.. BUT.. It seems like no matter what pH I water them with.. The runoff ALWAYS comes out at 5.8 or 5.9 with the Mandarin Cookies and 5.8 or 5.7 with the ETHOS Cookies.. So if you want to reuse your coco coir.. Make sure to remove ALL the roots. The girls dont look too bad at all.. And that's why I'm guessing they just needed more nutes in the mix.. We shall see how this week goes! Mid week.. They are looking alot better! Mandarin Cookies is exploding woth growth.. ETHOS Cookies is growing slow but she is growing for sure.. I think I may need to remove a node or 2 on the ETHOS Cookies.. I could just leave it.. But the very top 2 are covering alot of tops.. I could make some clones from it.. Hmm.. All-in-all.. I'm happy with how these girls are growing for now tho.. This rootzone issue isnt going away.. But I think I found a way to make it work out.. I've been watering a little differently.. Here is a bit of an example: Day 1: Feed at 6.5 Day 3: Water at 6.4 Day 5: Feed at 6.3 Day 7: Water at 6.2 Day 9: Feed at 6.5 Day 11: Water at 6.4 Day 13: Feed at 6.3 Day 15: Water at 6.2 Etc... The runoff is staying above 5.5 each time.. But as I lower the pH, the runoff pH lowers as well (obviously).. So I think watering this way has helped keep these gorgeous ladies happy.. And theyare also very hungry.. I may have to start watering one plant every other day.. Water plant 1 tomo.. Water plant 2 the next day.. Then plant 1 the next day and then plant 2 the next day etc... 1 reason I want to start doing it that way is because I think the ETHOS Cookies isn't needing as much nutes as the Mandarin Cookies.. But they are looking great. Very happy and so are they! The heat has been insane lately.. So at the hottest part of the day I try to just turn the light down to 25% for 4 hours or so.. I hate having to do that.. But it's all I can do for now.. Or maybe change the light/dark hours.. Blah.. Whatever, they are happy! End of week.. I supercropped 2 branches.. They pretty much healed up and are already back to normal.. Like it didnt bring them down any lower at all lol.. It straightened back up and its as if nothing happened.. Just a big ass (MOOSE) knuckle lol.. But I stopped using the Kushie Kush and was just using the normal Gen Hydro FloraBloom in the mix. Will be upping the FloraGro next week! Wow.. Such hungry ladies! It's been so long since I've grown a bigger photo period.. I forgot how much they can take!.. On to the next!...

Hello growers happy new year day 36 in the garden with the purple lemonade she’s stretched abit and gone into flowering Happy days only giving water hopefully see some purple buds soon peace ✌️🏻

Vamos familia que ya actualizamos la cosecha de estas Candy Rain de Zamnesia, para el concurso POWER BUDS Plagron x Zamnesia CONTEST. Ya era hora de cosechar, estoy bastante contento con los resultados. Vaya flores que se han marcado repletas de tricomas, y las flores se marcan aromas dulces y afrutados. Es una variedad bastante fácil de cultivar y muy resistente, crecieron desde el principio bien vigorosas, sin problemas y al final de todo recompensó. Las condiciones ambiéntales han sido máximas en 25 y mínimas en 20 y una humedad estable en torno al 36% al final de floración y en el secado. Os comento que tengo un descuento y para que compréis en la web de Zamnesia de un 20%, el código es ZAMMIGD2023 The discount 20% and the code is ZAMMIGD2023 https://www.zamnesia.com/ Espero que disfruteis este diario, buenos humos 💨💨

Plants are doing good this week, I started to lower the feed a bit from 1.6 down to 1.2 as some of them are finishing off and the rest are not to far behind noticed a bit of burn on upper leaves suggesting to heavy of a feed as well. Updated the heights on them as well as they grew a tiny bit. Should be the last height update, this is their final form :D #1 - 45cm +2cm #2 - 39cm +3cm #3 - 39cm +2cm #4 - 24cm +2cm #5 - 48cm +2cm #6 - 51cm +2cm Two of the plants have started to show signs they are entering their end stages of life. Hopefully everything else will be ready soon as I do not want to do a staggered harvest. Been noticing its hard to capture the frost on them with my camera as the overhead lights mess up the photo somehow. notice when they are beside the tent with reflected light on them it shows up a bit better so took some individual selfies of them on a back background. Liverwort is also doing well, once this plant is all done I have a feeling its going to like its new home. I want to see how big I can get it, it also have a bunch of smaller off shoots starting now as well beside the main plant, in some of the other pots I also have mosses :D Also PSA: remember to clean your intake filters if you have any, they get dusty and lower your CFM rating of the extractor fans in the tent. and if you use a carbon filter its already getting lowered a lot.

Hello! Day 28 Lemon Haze, looking good, I did first topping and started LST training, Light 50% 12-14 inch distance hope its ok only for this week and next week i ll turn it in to 100% reason for this i have small seedling there same zone, pls correct me if i am doing it wrong thanks GD community. I also got some white Dots , about this i ll ask a grow qus. Thanks

Jeg er så glad for at jeg plantet hende over i en bare lidt større potte

12/21 - Transplanting into a 7 gallon pot (coco/per) - increasing feeds starting tomorrow - swapped lights running the Marshydro 150W full spec - Did some light defoliation 😎😎😎😎😎

Day 70- 2nd day of flush. Plant 1 is pretty much done, just waiting for trichs to amber up a bit. Plant 2 has a ways to go, but I’m flushing anyway. Wifey complained about the choking smell, but realized my in tent filter was off because a branch lifted the plug out of the socket 🙄🙄 Day 75 - past few days been feeding PK at 0.7 EC, waiting for the trichs to turn. Going back to plain water tonight. #2 plant has much larger buds, but is waaayyy behind #1 - still tons of white pistils.

Very strong aroma coming from this beautiful flowers they're just amazing, super sweet and puro mango notes,like if you were smelling an authentic mango from a tree. Can't stop saying how great this genetic bY GEA SEEDS is 🔝💎🌱🤞

Mitad de semana cinto, estuve desaparecido por 10 día desde la última actualización del diario y 7 días en que deje a las plantas solas porque me fui de vacaciones, por lo menos estuvieron bien con un sistema de riego que le implemento a mis plantas. Aun las mantengo en macetas de 1L (queda por llenar el pan de raiz). Ahora si las voy a cuidar como se merecen por que en los 7 días igual se deterioraron las plantas. También hice prueba de runoff y tengo variación de ph y ec obviamente. Siempre se le ah dado la misma agua con los nutrientes pero está vez le estoy dando los fertilizantes que aparecen en está semana por que me voy a enfocar en recuperar las raíces, ahora que estuvieron los 7 días igual el estanque se acumularon sales y incremento mi ph pero ya lo estamos regulando en el riego, no voy hacer lavado de raíces para ver si se pueden recuperar solas Antes de salir de vacaciones se les hizo super cropping en el 6to nudo a las 4 nenas y ahora le voy a mostrar los resultados luego de 8 días le hice unas defoliaciones y otro super cropping. Cuando llegue igual estaban con falta de riego (ya estarán pidiendo 2 riegos al día, por su tamaño)

Derniers jours pour elles… for suurre. J’ai commencé à récolter la passion j’attend que la Pineapple devienne plus ambrée, plus que qq jours. 😎☮️

Didn't have a lot of time this week so she missed her waterings for a couple of days, also didn't empty the dehydrator so humidity was up a few days. Installed a second cheap blurple led on the side, but doubt this will really help much. Having some trouble keeping temps up as winter is coming and I dont have a heater in my garage

7/20 3AM MONDAY . looks good EC 900 Grow. little Cal.mag

Buds pleins de résine, grosse odeur afghan, irrigation engrais 1fois sur 3.

I raised the EC to ~2000, lowered ORP to ~100 and didn't see any tip burn yet, will observe the plant and might increase it even more, haven't grown this strain yet. No smell yet. Roots are looking good, maybe a little stained due to Universol Yellow which has a strong yellow color. Did more LST and defoliation, with the stretch I might reach the frame for Scrog next week? So I noticed a mutation that has been there for a while but I only noticed it this week, this plant is giving me a little headache with the slow growths on top and mutations but mid week it started to grow more, maybe it is coming back right now since the roots are doing good from start and the plant laid a good foundation before it takes off now? I had worse starts with great results. Since stretch definitely started mid week and flowering is starting I will count it as flower mid week but will mark is as flower on GD starting next week. Also added predator mite pouches as precaution, better safe than sorry. Values are average of the day. DATE - °C - RH% (Tent Temp/RH) 20241028 24.4 59.9 20241029 24.1 62.7 20241030 24.3 62.4 20241031 24.0 58.5 20241101 22.9 60.6 20241102 23.2 60.3 20241103 23.4 58.4 DATE - PH 20241028 5.84 20241029 5.94 20241030 5.96 20241031 5.98 20241101 6.17 20241102 6.07 20241103 6.01 DATE - ORP (mV) 20241028 197 20241029 175 20241030 165 20241031 159 20241101 185 20241102 114 20241103 93 DATE - EC(us/cm) 20241028 1576 20241029 1536 20241030 1561 20241031 1583 20241101 1685 20241102 1914 20241103 1962 DATE - CF 20241028 15.76 20241029 15.36 20241030 15.61 20241031 15.83 20241101 16.85 20241102 19.14 20241103 19.62 DATE - °C (Reservoir) 20241028 22.3 20241029 21.9 20241030 22.5 20241031 22.5 20241101 21.3 20241102 21.1 20241103 22.1

Day 56 - Easy goings. Large and in charge. Flower is fully under way. Really wonder what this one would have done under a larger light that would let it spread out more. Sitting at around 38 inches tall at this point, 49 inches wide.

Gracias al equipo de Fast Buds 420 por la donación de las semillas y poder inscribirme en el concurso del año. Creada a partir de la genética de la Girl Scout Cookies y la Gorilla Glue #4, seleccionadas a mano y en combinación con nuestra famosa Gorilla Cookies Auto, esta variedad lleva todos los mejores atributos de sus padres al más alto nivel. Este híbrido maravillosamente equilibrado prospera en el interior y en el exterior, y en todo tipo de climas, a la vez que es superresistente a los bichos y las plagas. Es una productora masiva que ofrece a los cultivadores de todos los niveles rendimientos de hasta 650 g/m² de cogollos de primera calidad que no decepcionan en absoluto. Siendo una de las versiones más potentes de esta genética, la Gorilla Cookies FF (Fastflowering) presume de un enorme porcentaje de 29 % de THC que se traduce en montones de resina y terps sabrosos que hacen las mejores extracciones. Es la elección perfecta para los cultivadores de hachís que buscan cepas de gran potencia que produzcan sabores y aromas excepcionales. Consigue aquí tus semillas 😁🌻🚀: https://2fast4buds.com/es/seeds/gorilla-cookies-fast-flowering

Everything is fine and they doing awesome They are in week 6/7 ish and some start to fade nicely. It’s hard to tell exactly when week1 started. I saw some pests(spider mites& caterpillar)attack one some leaves and remove those and hopefully mites don’t spreading to much.because spider mites love hot long days and low humidity and the days getting shorter and cooler day by day. I check them every 30 minutes to make sure everything is fine:)