The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Por una parte tenemos la que llamaremos Biscotii 1: Tiene un tamaño monstruoso, que tuve que doblar en varias ocasiones el tallo porque no me daba más el foco para subirlo. De hecho una de las ocasiones me quemo una hoja del puntal y un pelín la puntita y como se puede ver hizo que la punta parezca un monstruo!! enorme, grande y de forma especial. Hay gente en instagram que me pregunta que si lleva anabolizantes jajaajja lo más parecido a eso es los nutrientes de plagron!!! Que las revienta a las pequeñas Esta tiene unos tonos morados que la hacen muy atractiva y una resina generosa. El olor es fuerte y la altura estirada es una pasada!! Por otra parte la Biscotti 2: El tamaño es inferior que la anterior, pero no por eso diría que poco productiva... Tiene un central que da miedo igualmente, los satélites son una pasada llena de resina. En esta ocasión no tiene tonos morados, pero tiene mayor resina. En general ambas dos tapan la botella de litro y medio de agua, prieta, olorosa y con resina para aburrir!! 😍😍😍😍😍 El peso le pondré en seco en cuanto lo pese 😇
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@NewtDawg
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Have been practically fizzing this week knowing the end is nigh for lady No1. Ended up giving her an extra day, mainly to prove to myself I could but was up early the next morning resolved to chop. Dismantled her branch by branch but only took the big fan leaves off hoping it will help her dry slowly and ended up with a nice collection of flowers. I’m pretty chuffed to how she has turned out although I know it’s not a massive yeald. Have learned loads though and already planning on what I’m going to change for next time. Thanks to all who’ve shared the benefit of wisdom, the forum has helped immeasurably. Will be back after she’s lost some moisture with a weight check and maybe a cheeky premature smoke report. Thanks gang xx Update: I managed to leave it drying for 13 days in total before taking the scissors to it for the jar. All told weighed in at 33g and as I’m not going to start lying to you now have to admit to being a little disappointed with that. Not sure if my expectations were too high or if it’s because of my novice status ( or more likely both) but still grateful for what I did mange to produce which I have to admit seems decent quality which I believe will only get better with a decent cure. Now just need to stop carrying the jar around like a cradled infant and find somewhere dark and cool for it to rest. X
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Thaught the yield would be bigger and the smell louder in generell.
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@Broffel
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Week 10 of flower and going slowly to the end, think need 1more week. Harvest hulk 2 and it's 358gr wet nice sticky denced buds. And hulk 1 gets darkness for couple days before I harvest her. Last day of week 10 of flower and harvest hulk 1 and she giff me 354 gr wet buds. Will update dairy when the buds are dry
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@Coopmc
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Ya buddie got a cut of this to throw in with FruitWalker 50/50 I’ll be reversexig for pollen! Hell yes😍😍😍
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@Luv2Grow
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Day 43 - Starting week 7 and damn this girl is taking off. She’s starting to bud up nicely and doesn’t seem to have any issues from the feeding of bloom nutes yesterday. The pot is already starting to get light so will be giving her some pH’d water and cal-mag in the next day or two. Day 44 - Nothing much new today but she’s definitely starting her stretch. She’s stretching close to an inch every 24 hours and hoping she doesn’t get too crazy. Will be giving her some fresh water tomorrow. Debating on doing some defoliation, she’s pretty damn bushy right now so might just do a couple fan leaves here and there till I get her thinned out. Day 46 - The girl was pretty dry today and gave her a full gallon of pH’d water (6.4) and some cal-mag. Bud sites are definitely starting to fill in quite and bit and she’s looking great but I did remove a few leaves today to try and make her a little less bushy and will continue to remove a few every few days until she’s nice and open. Day 48 - Almost the end of week 7 and she’s filling in nicely. Will be giving her another feeding of nutes tomorrow and removed a couple more fan leaves tonight.
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Fast Germination with this one, started to show a nice healthy root in about 7 hours. Easy simple and quick germination.
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💩Holy Crap Growmies We Are Back💩 Code Name FBT2307 Well growmies we are at 56 days in and everything is going much better , she's bounced back pretty good👍 really good actually 👌 👉 Shes getting frosty now , and i hope she fills out 👌if she does gonna have some buds on a stick 💪 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👈 Even with early major issues due to the soil/medium she's come a long way 👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈
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This week whent ok bit slower than the autos but that's normal due to it being a photo period. I'm feeding once a week guaranteeing that the roots get some air to. Whenever it's a nice sunny day I put it out in the garden to try and harden it off a bit because eventually it will be going outside in the spring and grown all through the summer where I will hope to harvest in October.thank you for looking at it .for more information about feed and what nutrients look in the description on the diary.thank you and remember it's 420 somewhere
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So cut of a few bud sites that were too low or under the net. I also had some nutrient problems with the FBA2504 shes more hungry then the other 2 plants but that should be sorted out by now, or at least thats what I hope.😅😂 Also I wanted to mention that the terps on the FBA2504 give me some Super Lemon Haze vibes and shes also looking like a sativa dominant strain so who knows maybe I got 4 Haze crossings in my tent rn🔥. Purple Haze seems to be the fastest out of the 3 she is a fast one for sure. The Frostbanger has some purple pistils forming.
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Fed compost tea with added Bio Pk on. Wednesday. Plain water all following feedings. Did a heavy defoliation today and removed some popcorn bud that I’d missed. No issues currently.
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Buds are starting to thicken. I was hoping for a purple phenotype but I didn’t get lucky. SMELL IS AMAZING. Huge plant
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@dauntless
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6/22/2022 Dropped into Ph 6.3 Added myco in water, 1 ml cal mag per gallon, just enough, soak for 24 hrs This is supposed to be a super vigorous mother plant, seeds are nice and plump. I have particular high hopes for seeds 6, 7, 8, 9 which seem bigger/better than the others. 4 is a runt. 1-3 are good sized. Five is pretty plump we will see. 6/23/2022 Start germination About 24 hours after initial drop in water, I placed each seed into a soaked Root Riot cube, and then back into the cup with its label. Placed lid back on tray, covered and back on heater. It's about 74 degrees F. Once they pop, I'll start the veg week, approximately 1-2 days. 6/25/2022 Last Day of germination, ready to pop I'm pretty verbose with my grows, some people may hate that. I like to show what I do for my own process, as well as to share with others. I put Hydroton into the bottom of the AC Infinity 1 gallon pots, like 2 inches. Then mixed Mother Earth Coco + Perlite Mix, Fox Farms Ocean Forest, earthworm castings, Dynamyco. Placed the root riot cubes into the substrate contained by the fabric pots -- misted with diluted Foop Spray, domed. Environment looks good. Seedling stage week starts tomorrow, yay.
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@PalmaGrow
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29 - 4 noviembre Completamente recuperada de la poda 31/10 se aplica riego nutricional con fitohormona y fertilizante orgánico NPK y micro elementos
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@CalGonJim
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1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia
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Week 4 went good to everything perfect not much to report on other than growth the genetics seems to be doing very well. As again sorry for just one video and not many pictures my pictures have been messed up on my files . But thanks for seeing the diary and remember it's 420 somewhere
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@Bobo_Zion
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This is the first week of the plants being above soil, we did lose one but we are germinating another to replace that. I think the one we lost was due to heat stress, the others are holding up pretty well, there is another one that showed signs of heat stress, we just moved it a little deeper in the tent and it seems to be doing okay.
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@Natrona
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*****DIVINE SEEDS ***** *****FRACTAL***** SPONSORED GROW Week 3 Germination April 6. Week 1 water only Week 2 water only Week 3 added recharge and TPS1 increasing ppm to 570. This week 21-27 consisted of plain ph 6.4-6.7 water with recharge and TPS1. 4/24 updated my AC Infinity app and started using the advanced programming settings for early vegetation. This is keeping humidity in 70% with temps in 80 and my ladies are loving it. They are lush and green. They are however remaining quite short. 4/26 I did some LST and defoliation. Before and after pics above. Until the plants are big enough to go outside, I will be using my AC Infinity tent and equipment. Once outside, I will be watering with well water and recharge and any additional fertilizers or amendments will be determined at that time. Thank you @DivineSeeds As always, thank you friends and followers for stopping by, for your likes and comments. I truly appreciate all the plant love💚from you! Have fun & love what you grow 💚 Sending love and light 💫 💫Natrona 💫 ***FRACTAL*** Fractal is an especially psychedelic strain that Divine Seeds developed for esoteric and mystical experiences, meditation and creativity. A potent and vivid landrace variety from Southern India was crossed with a sticky leaning Indica (mostly Afghani), then Skunk #1 joined this company. Their progeny underwent multiple selection experiments, until its massive built, resin concentration and hypnotizing powers reached an ultimate level. The result is now known as Fractal – resinous, spicy and productive. Best choice for commercial growing: a compromise between bigger yields and fast ripening! A great source of hashish that has something incense-like to its musky smell. Indoors expect 170 сm height, out of doors plants grow up to 200 сm. Fractal fits for all types of growing environment: grow boxes, hydroponic or aeroponic setups, outdoor plantations, balconies, terraces and green houses. For more weight it is recommended to train Fractal plants to broaden their structure and limit their vertical growth. For that purpose use ScroG or SoG, LST, FIM or topping, supercropping or mainlining – there are no limitations for the strain itself, but certainly low-stress methods are recommended to smaller samples. Fractal has an inherent immunity to molds and insect pests, but since its colas are thick, protect your plants from stale air. Also, during rainy weeks your plantation may need to be covered. Ready for outdoor harvesting in October. Big and dense buds the color of olive, hunter green heavily coated with crystals. Whole Fractal buds smell hashy and earthy, while cedar and fruity hints are noticeable on breaking. Measure your portion carefully: the potency is above average! With Fractal you experience an overall stoning that either keeps you put or slows your motion down, also vertigo is possible. However, in moderate dosage the impact is described as a pleasant sensation of well-being and placidity. Perfect for spending a night by a bonfire without talking, therefore is more often enjoyed as a solo smoke. Efficiently relieves muscle spasms and seizures, inflammations, combats insomnia and increases your appetite. Up to 3 hours of altered state of mind can be expected. Best consumed at nighttime. Pots: 5gallon Air pots Soil Fox Farm Happy Frog Amended with worm castings, dolomite lime and mychorihiza Seeds provided by Divine Seeds Divine Seeds breeding company The link to Fractal Feminized Seeds Fractal - Divine Seeds breeding company The link to Fractal Auto Seeds Auto Fractal - Divine Seeds breeding company ================================= Equipment: AC Infinity CLOUDLAB 844 – Advance Grow Tent 48”x48”x80” CONTROLLER 69 PRO – Grow Tent Controller CLOUDLINE LITE 6 - Inline Fan 6" IONBOARD S44 – LED Grow Light Board 400W CLOUDRAY S6 – Oscillating Circulation Clip Fan Carbon Filter 6” Nutrients: Total Plant Solution TPS1 Canopy Signal