Sorry for the late one I’ve been so busy plus this heatwave has had me tending to these girls non stop but there doing fine as you can see.today is day 31 of flower feeding once maybe twice a day.started them on the full shogun range now and they are lapping it up super green and healthy

Key transition week into flowering. This week started with a serious issue: a strong drought, which left several pots completely dry and one plant especially affected. On Sunday I managed to revive them using only water, rehydrating the substrate properly without stressing the roots. On Monday I applied a full feeding to restore nutritional stability, and on Wednesday another 20 L irrigation, since the plants are consuming a lot at this stage. Today, on the official switch to 12/12, I carried out a deep irrigation of 23 L total, with EC and pH fully adjusted, leaving the substrate well saturated to support the beginning of the stretch. The plants have responded very well to the entire watering sequence, showing a much more uniform canopy and strong growth after the LST work. It’s clear that their demand for water and nutrients increases every day, so we’ll continue raising the irrigation volume progressively over the next weeks to keep them in an optimal rhythm. Now the most decisive phase of the cycle begins. Thanks for following the grow, excited to see how everything develops next week.

Se poda primer nudo , ya pronto se pasará a floración.

Flower4, día 4 desde que comenzó la floración, se regaron con 1.8 EC y pH 6.2, con los nutrientes puestos en la descripción, no me tienen muy convencido pero creo que van mejorando. Flower9, defoliación y riego, está vez se agregó al riego Bud Candy, el cual seguirá siendo usado en toda la fase de floración. Flower13, riego 2.0 EC y pH 6.2, se agregó Voodoo Juice, Tarantula y Piranha al agua de riego.

did this beautiful girl a topping, depilation, and LST, she feels good 💚

Overall happy with the grow, I will try this strain again outdoors when I get the opportunity. A very good all day smoke that doesn't get boring 😁

**Encontrarás la traducción a español al final de la descripción** From/Desde: 29/03/19 || To/Hasta: 04/04/19 From day/Desde día: 36 || To day/Hasta día: 42 You can find the Money Maker Diary here: ** Podéis encontrar el diario de las Money Maker aquí:** https://growdiaries.com/diaries/25667-gorillamakingmoney-gorilla-vs-money-m -----IMAGES & VIDEOS----- Video 1: Exactly the same video as 2 but accelerated +206% to fix it to 1 minute for instagram. Video 2: 7 days (36~42) TimeLapse, 1 image each 60 secs @ 30 fps (I think there's a missing day in the middle, GoPro things...) Photo 5: Nutrients Used this Week -----WEEK SUMMARY----- I must apologize myself for the lack of pictures this week. I raised a bit the amount of water this week, anyway as you can see at the end of the timelapse video the babies are drinking much more now, and I'm not using enough water. Starting from the next week i will water in shorter periods alternating nutrients and additives. I finally decided to switch to flowering the first day of the next week, i want to see what size of colas they can generate from this size of plant. I don't wan't to try to create monsters at time, and i think my pots are small for too big plants i think. With this growing i'm just introducing myself to growing techniques and to indoor photoperiod strains. The day 1 i switched the lights to flowering mode, and as i said the day 5 (1rst 7th week day) i will switch to 12/12. -----WATERING CALENDAR----- 29/03/19 - 1.000 ml with all week nutrients @ 0.9 E.C. PH5.8 02/04/19 - 500 ml. Just water @ PH6 *****ESPAÑOL***** -----IMAGES & VIDEOS----- Video 1: TimeLapse, exactamente el mismo vídeo que el 2 pero acelerado al 206% para ajustarlo a 1 minuto para Instagram. Video 2: 7 días (36~42) TimeLapse, 1 image each 60 secs @ 30 fps (Creo que falta un día entre medias, cosas de GoPro) Photo 5: Nutrientes usados esta semana -----WEEK SUMMARY----- Tengo que disculparme por la falta de imágenes esta semana, y es que no siempre uno dispone de todo el tiempo que desearía. A pesar de haber incrementado un pelín la cantidad de agua con respecto a la semana anterior, en el final del video timelapse se hace evidente como ya empiezan a beber bastante más agua y lo que les vengo echando ya no es suficiente, a partir de la semana que viene regaré cada menos días alternando nutrientes y aditivos. He decidido que esta va a ser la última semana de crecimiento, quiero ver que tal se forman la colas con este tamaño de planta, hay que tener en cuenta que las tengo en tiestos pequeños/medios y tampoco es mi intención crear monstruos por el momento. Con este cultivo simplemente me estoy introduciendo a las técnicas de cultivo y al cultivo de fotodependienes en interior. Con respecto a la luz, el día 1 he cambiado el modo de la luminaria a floración, y el día 5 (primer día de la semana 7) voy a hacer el cambio a 12/12. -----CALENDARIO DE RIEGO----- 29/03/19 - 1.000 ml con todos los nutrientes semanales @ 0.9 E.C. PH5.8 02/04/19 - 500 ml. Sólo agua @ PH6

C’est nikel pour le moment

This girl has been cruising through no issues the smell typical hockey Moby Dick thank you for reading I will continue to update have a happy grow.

Was a good final week. All went really well. Tuned it down to match ripening. Lowered the timings to 11/13 on/off. And moved the plants to the side lowering their ppfd input to match the hight of 40cm ppfd. Was a super easy pheno to do from seed-harvest. Got a lovely pheno and delighted to have gotten a nice tasty example of what divine seeds is about. Liking them so much. I've committed making divine seed make up 30% of my current crop. Amounting to about 10-12 plants. Sadly none will make the competition but, I'm just glad I'll have a lot of weed i know more or less will be something I like

Following RQS auto guide : https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/blog-how-to-grow-autoflowering-cannabis-n83 WEEK 3: VEGETATION WELL UNDERWAY #15 29.3. - #21 4.4. #15 29.3. -Nothing done on this day, except remotemonitoring #16 30.3. -Watered with nutes mix and with PH- mix -Filled hudfr. -Increased exhaust fan from 1/2 time on to 2/3 time on. -Modified the old LST's and bent rest of the plants too #17 31.3. -Watered again, with nutes mix and with just water, 3liters. -increased exhaus to be 100% -Shutdown humidifier -Tent now at 22c-25'c and about 40% hum. -removed the 3in1 meter, was just bs... -Otherwise growing nicely. #18 01.4. -Nothing done on this day, except remotemonitoring #19 02.4. -Nothing done on this day, except remotemonitoring #20 03.4. -Mixed all nutes to a 1,5liters , then mixed that with water to an 3liters and Watered with that solution, so about 0,75liters/pot -more LST as the plants are getting bigger -Removed humidifier from tent, as the hum. stays between 30-40% even with exhaust fan at 100% on. -Moved the temp diode closer to side of strskllr pot, as it got "too" close to plant leafs -Added pictures of LST and 2,5hours after it, noticeable change in plant directions, so immediately they are turning towards lights (as the should) -Oh right, 'cause there is 2x purplematics, i kinda FIMmed the other with just my fingers, at least i got some leaf heads out, so might been fimmed might not been fimmed, will see if there is any difference compared to his mate in the same pot.. #21 05.4. -Again a "last day of the week", this week must been "fastest", possibly 'cause again a day with "nothing done , just remotemonitoring" in diary also. -Will start watering more next (0,5liters/24h/plant stated in RQS guide 'bout growing autos : https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/blog-how-to-grow-autoflowering-cannabis-n83 ) -Also next week should be the last week in VEG phase, there was already some minor smell in tent, even with coalfilter at exhaust line intake, but id say no flowering nodes yet visible, will take "close-ups" after i spot any (nextweek) -Will not use Buddy next week, unless there is any visible flowerings, after that should be used accordingly.

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

Maybe this Is the last week i feed them. At day 61 i decided to flush them because trichomes are mostly cloudy Milky.By the way,this Is the 64th day from seed,Time Is correct. Fast Buds Is a warranty!

2-24 1 gallon plain water, 6.4. She may get mad, I didn't add cal/mag. 2-25 Slightly adjusted LST, just to give a little more space. She sure is purdy 😻 Removed few leaves for light. Guy didnt mind. He had a all you can eat buffet 😂😂 3-1 1 gallon 5 ml cal/mag, 1 ml drops, 20 ml EM 1, 1.5 ml Amplify. Bubbling for 4 hrs. PH 6.4 ish Ohhh boy, she sure is gonna be happy today. 😁😁 See you next week!

5/28 I think she's about to go off. 6/2 she's been droopy leafed for a bit. I backed off on nutrients for over a week. I thought it may have been overwatering but at the same time I don't want to kill off the microbe life in my soil right now by letting it get overly dry. I'm more experienced with coco and the dry back is more aggressive and intense and with soil it's a little different and slower but it als9 cant dry back as

buds are now 2x as big as i started, will leave it another few days b4 i harvest. then reset the room and on to the next crop. of Ya Hemi and T fuck. then a Run of OG God Bud

A new week with new developments :). Not much to report but the girls are doing really well. Pistils are popping up left right and centre. The stretch on both plants has actually been less leggy than I'm used to from this strain. Ive just been doing straight water feeds with no added liquid seaweed and no top amendments to the soil this week. As you can see the girls really aren't in need of any more nutrients at this time but next week I'll be feeding with liquid seaweed again and the next top amendment dressing isn't due for another three weeks along with another defoliation to allow light to those lower bud sites. I have done some tying down just to ensure a more even canopy for better light penetration to the lower growth. Since I haven't got a lot to report I took a couple of videos and some photos for you all to enjoy. If you guys like the content of this diary please drop me a like or drop a comment on what you think I could do better or include in future posts? Until next week! ✌️

She seems to be doing well. Her buds get fatter and more smelly each day. Weather turned a bit cooler. Temps in the day are mid 70s to mid 60s. Nights are in the high 40s mid to upper 50s. So nights would be cold for her. Plus she was getting severe mornings dew. So I bring her in the the garage at night. The temperature in the garage is 70. So she is going to have a warmer night than day. This goes against nature. For some reason I think she will like it. Today I took off all of her LST ropes. My thinking is, she may see the tension as weight. Probably should have taken them off sooner. Bruce Banner strain is a 9 or 10 week flower strain. So I figure she is about half way through flower. Day 100. She has a lot of lower leaves yellowing and falling off. The yellow is starting to move up the branches. This plant is almost all tops. Most coloas are top and 2 nodes under it. There are a few that have 4 or 5 nodes under the top, but they get the light for it. This strain requires a lot of food. This I read from a lot of reviews on the strain. I should have read up the Bruce Banner strain much earlier. Although I think I did a great job with her, considering this was my first serious grow. I did some gorilla growing in my younger days. However I had no idea what I was doing. I use to plant them, give them some water. Then in a few weeks top them and check on them every few days to few weeks. If they were lucky they got some Miracle-Gro. There was not a lot of information on how to grow. I was harvesting way too early. 9/23 1 gallon of water PH 6.2. It's not as hot, so I don't think she needs 2 gallons everyday anymore. Day 100 9/24 Fed 4 tablespoons Foxfarm Big Bloom, 12 ml Foxfarm Tiger Bloom, half a teaspoon Foxfarm Beasti Bloom, 2 tablespoons of Foxfarm Kelp me Kelp you, per 2 gallons of 6.4 PH water. Day 101 9/25 Cloudy day, no need for food or water. Day 102 9/27 Sunny. Made a tea worm castings, poop, some powder baby food and black strap molasses. Also 24 MLs Foxfarm Tiger Bloom, per two gallons. Day 103. Day 103 I see her first orange hairs, just a few. She smells great. She is making some beautiful buds. Very exciting time, she is getting close. She is a short plant, if she were in the ground, she would be about 3 feet tall. She is about 3 and 1/2 feet wide. I had her tied down most of her life. My goal was to keep her as short as I could. I prefer the neighbors not see her. This grow was by design, I wanted her to have as many tops as possible. I bent her branches and did not let them grow straight up. Not sure if I would get more or less if i let the plant grow up. She sure is going to give me many top buds. Either way Im going to have very nice buds. So if there is a weight difference in growing styles I have no way of knowing, until this plant finishes and I grow another style. The weight does not really matter. This will be more bud than I need, for a while.