The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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@Ninjabuds
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I wish they didn't make me do this to get a smileI wish they didn't make me do this to get a smileI wish they didn't make me do this to get a smileI wish they didn't make me do this to get a smileI wish they didn't make me do this to get a smileI wish they didn't make me do this to get a smile
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Que pasa familia, vamos con la cuarta semana de crecimiento de estas Drizl Pickl feminizadas de Seedstockers. Vamos al lío ,se trasplantaron en macetas de 7 litros definitivamente. El ph se controla en 6.0 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 24/20 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. El ciclo de crecimiento puse 16h de luz, el foco está al 50% de potencia. De momento van creciendo a buen ritmo y tienen un buen color, estaban muy bien enraizadas al realizarle el trasplante se notaba la abundancia radicular. Agradecer Agrobeta por el envío del kit gold series para esta temporada, son unos jefes 🙏 - os dejo por aquí un CÓDIGO: Eldruida Descuento para la tienda de MARS HYDRO. https://www.mars-hydro.com Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨
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Beautiful looking seedling, very healthy and developing at a fair pace, let's see what awaits us in this diary!! She's developing super fast each day just like her sisters in this run, let's see how she keeps developing! I only use pure water and watch them grow thanks to the amazing living soil blend that I'm working with called FLO Living soil blend, very recomended to all the organic gardeners out there!! I have Transplanted this big girl after just 17 days since she was planted, she is very well developed and so ai took the decision to transplant her and all her sisters in this run, let's see how she performs! 💚❤️💛👨‍🌾🔝
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@GrowGuy97
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Just got the new 8x4 setup and got some new seeds in from Seedsman so let’s see how this run goes! 5x5 is week 2 of flower going strong!
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Pics taken right before chop, currently hanging for the next 8-12 days and then a cure for a good few weeks. Pictures speak for themselves, I had high temps, supercropped the help out of them and yet are still the nicest looking bud I have ever grown since I started in 2003. Can’t wait to test how they smoke. I have two phenos but off to buy some more to do a more in depth pheno hunt.
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Per me è la prima esperienza in indoor e stanno andando molto bene
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@simps
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What a great plant growing like a perfect bush growing good not a whole lot update I did a whole lot of topping on this plant she’s taking everything I’m dishing out as far as training plants doing good happy with the outcome so far should be a good harvest Day4 of week8. Veg is going great she is really going fast it’s not a very big plant by flower time she be ok on yield so far it’s looking good I’m happy with grown no problems to report
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Sorry I only have two pictures today but it really isn't much to see. She's still in half veg half bloom mode. Soon she should be loading up. Either way I will be uploading this entire grow journal to my YouTube channel which is easy to remember. I am Ben and I chase big budz. Ben Chasin' Big Budz Hope to see you there
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Today is day 70 since the plants have sprouted, and day 27 of 12/12 light schedule. The buds have gotten a little plumper this week, particularly on the Train Wreck, but that plant seems to be a few days ahead in the flower process. I've been trying to overcome the yellow leaves on the Train Wreck plant, and I keep feeding the plant according to the "aggressive" feed chart from General Hydroponics, but it just isn't enough. I was a little worried about the pH in the soil getting too low or something, but the meter I have says it's actually on the high side. This point represents about halfway through the flower stage since I plan on going about 5 more weeks. The Train Wreck is expected to flower for 9-10 weeks, and the Royal Runtz for 8-9 weeks. The purple color on the Royal Runtz seems to be growing on each of the buds, and has a clear correlation to the amount of light hitting the bud. I'm interested to see if the buds below the canopy get the same purple coloration as the top buds. Temperatures were getting a little high early this week when I turned the light up to 95%, getting to about 82F. I moved the power supply for my light outside of the tent hoping it would reduce temperatures, but it only brought the temperatures down to 80F. On the bright side, my controller is generally keeping the humidity at 60% or less, compared to when the temperatures were at 82F and the humidity was closer to 65% most of the time. I measured the PAR for the tallest bud in the tent, which is getting about ~1200PAR, compared to the ~650PAR the Royal Runtz is getting. I wish I could lift up the Royal Runtz more to get it closer to even with the Train Wreck, but I've already lifted it up and both plants are bound by the scrog net. I noticed powdery mildew on a few leaves on the Royal Runtz, which I've been worried about given how bushy it is. The fan in the tent also doesn't blow directly on the plant, so I added a fan from my other tent to blow directly through the plant from the bottom, and moved the original fan to blow more directly on the Royal Runtz. I'll be turning off the humidifier completely for a bit while keeping a close eye on the plant to see if any more PM develops. Edit: While looking closer at what I thought was white powdery mildew, I noticed there were pollen sacks dropping pollen on the Royal Runtz plant. I sprayed the areas I saw polled/sacks with water and removed any buds I thought may have been affected as well as anywhere I saw pollen sacks. I'm sure I missed plenty, but I'll be watching the plants extra close from now on and assassinating any potential sacks I see. We'll see how seedy the tent gets, I guess.
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Finally we are done, I spent one 10 months on Durban Poison, this is my best sativa strain and im absolutely in love. So next report will be with some Clones of Durban Poison.
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Hi guys I hope your all good, So its been a mad week! Had to have a switch around. So the mimosa sherberts have been a nightmare but I think I got them back on track, there a good few weeks behind now. Gelato cakes are doing brilliant! Frosting up lovely and smell amazing, I reckon 4 weeks max left on these 2 autos, then its waiting on the sherbert mimosa to show me some nice buds. I have 1 blue cheese fem and 2 x dark phoenix vegging in there now. I will repot them when the autos are all done and finished. Happy growing guys 👌💪💚 Hi guys I just got around to defoliating and tieing back down the sherbert mimosas, its looking like each node is a 40cm long main, I cant wait for these to start producing now. Happy growing guys.
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High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.
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@Ju_Bps
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Hello my friends 👨‍🌾👨‍🌾🌲🌲, All was fine thiw week, Buds are more and more fat! I've continue to give pk 13-14 this week, I'll probably give one more time this new week after back to canna boost accelerator. Humidity was nice all the week between 45_55%HR, this Sunday back to 60%. Hope will down again with nice weather. I've given 2.7l water/plant -Water + rqs bloom tabs + sugar royal -Water + pk 13-14 -Water only Ph@6 Thanks for like, follow, good vibes, let me really happy, for suport my friends ❤️👨‍🌾🌲, With your all positives vibes I've been contacted by mars hydro this week, I'm so happy, Thanks to @marshydrococo 😘😘 And thanks to @royalqueenseeds for all this nice seeds 😘😘🌲🌲
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Went away for seven days had a friend come by and water the garden Absolutely exploded since I’ve seen them last very pleased with all of the plants except for mystery auto number one. It is disappointing me some but hopefully the top will bring more growth. Can’t wait to see these continued to develop!!!
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Ran 9.5 weeks Whole plant hang dry 17 days Growing wasnt easy, would not recommend to beginner, not heavy eater, but other than that she was a dream to grow, genetics spot on!
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Monday. Nothing to report. Tuesday. Ripening nicely