The plants have taken to their Earthboxes, especially #1 with the BuildASoil Light. The Earthbox with my Coots mix was the runt, plus I damaged the roots during transplant so it has an uphill battle, but I wouldn't count it out yet. It was looking droopy and with slight discoloration, but after a drench of Kashi Blend Tea (1/3 cup Kashi Blend, 1 teaspoon blackstrap molasses in 1 gallon of water for 24 hours) it perked right up. As for preventative pest management, I've kept doing foliar applications every 4 days of EM-FPE -> EM-1, next week I will incorporate the just-finished EM-5. I made a JADAM wetting agent (JWA) but I have realized even local bottled water is too mineral-heavy for it, so I will need to find a source of distilled water if I want to use it in my foliar regime. Next week I will begin doing LST to get some more tops going. At some point I plan to add a trellis, I have been busy with work but I will find the time to set up something, preferably a trellis that can move with the Earthbox to facilitate maintenance and not have them fixed in place for the entire training and flowering cycles.

8/5-After letting the bottom branches grow for another 4 days they were showing plenty of amber and had firmed up enough to harvest. Did a rough trim and hung the branches in Cannatrol Cool Cure to dry. 8/11-Overall the buds were a lot smaller than previous Mephisto grows. I'm going to let them cure for 2-3 weeks and then do a real taste test.

High Level again 👍 Eva seeds high level 7th March 2022 She is looking great as she moves further into her blooming stage . Gave her a small amount of Monsta bud to help those pistils develop 👌 The change from Summer to Autumn is probably the best time of the year here weather wise and all of my plants are soaking up the warm sunshine without that horrible heat to contend with. I have noticed they are all requiring a bit less to drink each day as well , which would be in part due to the soil not drying out as quickly as it was . I am not sure what is happening with Grow diaries and all of the glitches lately but it has made me decide to take a break once all of my current diaries are harvested . Maybe the site will improve we'll see. Thanks once again for stopping by 👍 R.I.P Warnie 👊

GENERAL COMMENT. This week ran nicely for the two girls, of course one is going slower than the other. RQS STRESS KILLER AUTO. Super happy with the results so far, she grew nice size buds, in the surrounding and a big fat main cola, just beautiful. As we are entering the last week, of last tree days, I choose to lollipop and take do a pre harvest defoliation, the reasons for that is mould and rot, I started to become insecure because she didn’t have airflow and as i was flushing humidity started to raise, all good, and now just approaching harvest! Flushing with flawless finish and tap water.

Welcome back boys, Everything's going as planned :) Still don't know if I should defoliate, I chose to let the leaves grow a bit more until next week. I will use wood sticks to maintain them a little more spaced. See you next week buddies

Aquí han pasado al interior, comienza la floración, día 26/08.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ==> Comments From Other "Living Soil/Super Soil" Growers Are Always Welcome <== ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ INTRODUCTION I am very excited about this grow as it is the first time with a new setup. I have added a new light and am going to try a super soil grow for the first time. I have a Mephisto Genetics Double Grape between paper towels and waiting to sprout. The space is about 18 inches by 24 inches. The ceiling slopes down, so I don't have much room at the rear of the space. For medium I am using Fox Farms Happy Frog augmented with perlite. The bottom third contains 0.5 pounds autoflower blend of a "super soil" additive from Nature's Living Soil. (https://amzn.to/2PUHc6k) I am using three-gallon cloth pots. The light is a Horticulture Lighting Group 135W QB V2 R-Spec LED kit. NUTRIENTS Tap water pH’d to 6.5. pH lowered using 1.5 TBS unsulfured blackstrap molasses and apple cider vinegar. One-half TBS of vinegar lowered pH about 0.5 points. The medium was very dry. Slowly watered to allow the moisture to be equal throughout the soil ISSUES My while I have yet to put the seed in the dirt, I am concerned about temperatures. They are currently running at about 86F. I would like to get it down to about 80F. DAILY LOG DAY -2: STARTED SEED * Started seed in my traditional manner. Between paper towels soaked in 5% bleach solution, 0.25 tsp/0.5 Cup water. Temp 82F. DAY -1: ACTION *The smallest of tip has appeared. Will put in soil in a few hours. Day 0: SEED PLANTED. * Refrigerator filtered water. pH 6.5. 1 cup (250ml) added very carefully. * Covered with humidity dome. * Light from Soil: 32.5” * Temperature: 82F DAY 1: SPROUT The sprouted seed has shown itself above the soil. A nice Christmas morning surprise. Now I can start counting the days. * Watered with about 200ml of water at pH 6.5. Used apple cider vinegar to lower the tap water pH. * I was pleased to find that my tap water does not contain chloramine. I was reading bad things about chloramine and "living soil." It can kill beneficial microorganisms. All I did was ask my water company and they replied saying "we found no mention of chloramine use in the system:" Just what I wanted to hear. * After looking at other diaries using 250W LEDs, I moved my light down to 25 inches. DAY 2: NO WATER FOR YOU * No watering today. There is plenty of water in the soil and I want the roots to stretch and work. * Working on increasing the humidity and getting more control over the temperature. DAY 3: WATER PLANT, NOT POT. ADDED MYCORRHIZAE. * Following the GrowWeedEasy watering suggestions for Kind Soil * 500ml water at 6.5 pH, around the plant and not across the full 3-gallon bag. * The fan gently moves the seedling to keep it strong. * Had minor unexpected run-off. I hope to avoid that in the future. * Added 1/8 tsp Great White Mycorrhizae dissolved in 100 ml of 50 ml water/50 ml molasses mix. Did not pH as it is such a small amount of solution compares to the watering earlier today. DAY 4: NO WATER, NO PICTURE * Nothing really new. So no reason for a picture. * The soil is dry on top, but the bottom of the pot is still damp. So I will watch it, but I don't expect to water today. * Adding a small intake fan has dropped the temps to about 82F, I think they can live with that. * A humidifier arrives tomorrow and I think that will be my last step to improve the environment. DAY 5: 500ml WATER, LOOKING GOOD * The plant is looking good. The second set of true leaves has a bend, but nothing to worry about. DAY 6: 500ml WATER. NEW HUMIDIFIER * It wasn't really necessary to water today, but I did simply to stay on the schedule I am using. * Given the lightness of the soil and the moving air, I don't anticipate any problems. * Added a humidifier yesterday evening. It's bringing the humidity up, but I need to keep the space closed and I'm a bit concerned about having to provide it with distilled water frequently. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ WEEK ONE IN REVIEW ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ * Watered with 750 ml pH's tap water. Watered slowly to avoid any runoff. * The plant is looking very healthy. It looks as if the roots are really starting to work as the plant is darker green. * Balancing temperature and humidity is tricky, but I think I will be able to get it stabilized with a bit more work. * Target Relative Humidity: Seedlings - 65-70; Vegging - 40-70; Flowering - 40-50 ==> Beginning Next Week I Will Only Post Twice A Week, Mid-week And End Of The Week. <==

Weirdo is at it again. Seems to me like she is in her final phase. Most of the leaves dying back buds starting to fall over but still a little immature🤷‍♂️ the other girl has a few weeks it seems but weirdo could be within the week. Ambers are starting to appear on the lower flowers. I am a little underwhelmed with her progress this week. I took a lower sample to evaluate things a little better. Plant two is moving along. Both plants cut their water demand down🤷‍♂️ After inspecting the sample, i notice alot of amber, mostly cloudy, with a few still clear, trichomes. I dont think she is ready as the buds are still developping new bracts. Hold out for a day or two, and go from there

Week 1 of flowering. These plants recovered quickly since the last defoliation. Probably gonna do some light defloration on day 14. Feeding with an npk ratio of 5-5-10. Using molasses, humic acids, amino acids, silica and kelp as a compliment. I'll cut out Silica and kelp around day 14. Greenhouse feeding Short flowering 663ppm PK booster 139ppm Calcium 260ppm

Started out pretty slow, then blew up like crazy during preflower before running into deficiencies followed by nute burn. In the end I switched to organic nutes and she came out great! Big frosty purple buds consistently ping pong ball sized. Smells like straight skunky oranges. Although this took a really long time for an auto, I would grow this again!

04.04 F5 04.10 F12

This strain of Kings kush is a smelly one, I still can put my finger on the terp profile yet. Almost a kushy herby dank is all I can describe atm. Growing these plants, I would suggest pruning every second node once you get her into flower since the bugs tend to push up against each other and may cause bud rot. Say ontop of defoliation and try to qork on them on a daily basis rather than lolipoping. Another key thing is to keep rH in range during flower, I will recomend to set it to 40-50rh in flower. Also if you are growing outdoors, Be sure to cover them up during rain when in flowering, I uses a transparent tarp for the last 5 weeks of flower. Save my plants from 9 huge rain events during the last 5 weeks, my plants would of died from br. This strain had some decent cold resistance also! She stay alive with with few events of temps getting down to 4 deg c.

Its very hot but its resisting very well

High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.

2 months and 3 days this auto is a killer, I put her in a 5 gallon pot, because why not? well first of all her root ball was tiny i'd be surprised if she went all the way down actually. You'd easily fit her into a 2L pot and get a ball park result. I might add a few in my next grow to fill the space beween the tray and the wall I have just enough space for one row in a 4x4 that's like 8 plants lol . If i do that I'll cross her side colas in front of her so there's no damage with the tent when it get sucked in when it's closed. What I really want to do is to do a full tent with these little pots, maybe do it SOG coco, because you can get a shit ton of the small pots in there then pull a decent amount of bud - strength in numbers! The harvest went okay, went in chopped it down at like < 5% ambers all milky not clears. hung it up to dry, it was moist the first three days but then on day 4 it dried out almost instantly, i pulled it and jarred it with boveda 62% (I couldnt find the 58s anywhere??) stems and all, prayed for 10 days, didnt open them, no burping necessary, not really with what happened and the boveda in there. Came out incredible. Strong, like I said, really smooth smoke, snow white ash, and it litterally tastes like grapes. Can't believe it how much it tastes distinctive, i'm guessing the rudiralis cross really supports the grapey taste. when you're pulling the smoke is sweet and a grapes, and it's not other berries, it's really grapes. For sure one of the better smokes I've ever had, and I smoked some GSCxGrape cross recently, these reminded me of that smoke but better on the grapes-side of things, still earthy though maybe a hint of coffee... The plant itself grew just like other rudiralis-dominant strains I've had, straight up in a pinetree shape, side colas grew almost as tall as the main cola the end. She had really thick indica leaves, amazing green colors on the stems even after the chop, that contrasted with the incredibly dark purple and royal purple flowers. Straight from the start of flower the purnurples started creeping straight from the flower nodes onto the leaves. Their coloration process was really amazing to watch happen purples literally bleeding onto the leaves. as she flowered, her nodes opened up in typical "strawberry"-strain fashion, like making those nice open flowers, full of trichomes and sugar leaves covered in trichs and oil. Loved it ! She didnt really smell that loud until the very end then she really smelled strong like lemon peel, a testament to how strong she actually is. If I find the space, i'll try to make some extracts from a full tent, probably the best vape juice anyone ever has tasted.

The mystery cookie males have been topped,and I will reveg them, mom is all alone, and able to stretch out a bit with more light. Temps and humidity is stable. 05/16/2018 5weeks into flowering MYSTERY COOKIE males are removed, Captains cake heavily fertilized by the twins. Mom's last day in sunlight look at her colors 05/21/2018 End of week 5 flowering, getting more outdoor pics natural daylight, very sparkly hope my camera picks them up!

Giovedì 17 ottobre switch a 12/12 Prossimamente cambieremo soluzione. Rinnoverò anche tutti i nutrienti con la fase vegetativa e loro continueranno a crescere fino a che iniziamo a vedere i prefiori e cui di ricambierò l'acqua con la soluzione e adatta, al momento tutto apposto! Venerdì 18 ottobre 2024 Svuoto la vasca, cambio soluzione. Partiamo da 75 lt acqua demineralizzata ec 235 ph 9.5 Aggiungo tutti I nutrienti indicati ottenendo ec 1318 ph 6.2

I pinched the tops off both plants..