What's up fellow growmies! I hope all is well with your grows! This week progressed like usual, they actually are starting to pre-flower and growing stigmas. Its like clock work with these autos July 1st marked a complete year in growing and each time I've grown autos they always start to transition to flower in week 5/6. Its hard to believe it has been a complete year for me💪🏾 I have gained so much knowledge and received so much help from this community and I really appreciate it. It seems like yesterday I was frantically worrying about everything. Although I have much to learn I think I pretty much have it down to a science. This last year I have grown 4 different strains 2 times each. On my current grow I have stopped obsessing over watering, one thing I am learning is that watering until run off is not really needed, unless you want to test the ppm/ph of said run-off, otherwise you are just wasting water. I start off with 1 liter of water per plant, and as they grow I make my way up to 2 liters. It appears to be the sweet spot especially for the 5 gallon pots, after about 2 liters I start to see run-off in the 3gallon pots I see it after about 1.5 liters of water. I am still using the General Hydroponics Flora Series trio, it has worked well for me. I always mix what the manufacturer recommends per gallon into a 3 gallon sprayer, so I am giving 1/3rd of the recommended dosage out of fear of nute burn or lockout. I performed LST on both Big Bud Auto plants, and one of my White Widows, the other 2 White Widows I am letting grow naturally. Stay tuned and Happy Growing!!!! 🤘🏾🤙🏾💪🏾

Both plants have almost stopped growing in heigth now and are in full flowering mode now. Barbarian (=AK-47 x Barbara Bud) Plant #1 is 15 cm shorter than plant #2, but a little bushier. Both have grown very well and are strong and healthy. They get more and more flower clusters now and start to fill up all branches. Trichomes start to appear all over...the plants start to get sticky and develop a weak sweet aroma now. Its time to take off the biggest fan leaves now for defoliation, I took a round of pics before and after.

Chimera Cut by Anesia Seeds 118 days from seed and 70 days into flowering. 🌱 Our beauty looks absolutely stunning! The buds have taken on a blue tint, and in this color, she’s even more gorgeous. 💙 Huge thanks to Anesia Seeds for the amazing genetics – Chimera Cut has exceeded all expectations! Right now, we’re watering her with cold water and placing ice on the soil to create light stress, and every time we do this, her aroma becomes even more intense! In 3 days, we’ll be harvesting this beauty and enjoying the results. 💪 Special thanks to Xpert Nutrients for the great nutrients, which have made this grow a success. Your products have played a key role in helping the plant thrive at every stage! 🙌💚

ok so everything has gone fantastic , no nutrient burns at all , and have been slowly creeping up the base nutrients , i have stopped the cal mag and now adding house and gardens bud XL at full strength these girls are now in full swing of flower the Cal mag has made absolutely no difference too the yellow colour of this blackberry so I suspect it is just how this strain is as meany diary's on here of the same strain are also on the yellow side , but it's certainly not affecting the speed of the growth of her , i also bought a new ph stick this week , i have found when PHing the feed bucket that its best too have air stones in the bucket , add all nuts and then ph but do not use the feed that day as if you check the next day the ph is off again so i left it 24 hours after i add more ph down , and it seems too make the measurements alot easier and stable , i have bent down the main stems " without damaging them onto my netting too A keep the canopy all the same high so my lighting is covering all plants at the same distance and also it allowed the side stems too reach up too , i also was sponsored another new led light by kingbo this week so have added another 600watt led too the grow , so now have two 600's and one 900watt , and temps are still fine sitting at 24c lights on and 19-20 off , so am pleased with that , I accidentally bend the main stem last week while I was putting them under the netting too try and control the stretch , luckily it did not crack or snap the branch at all and she didn't droop on that branch at all and has healed already , it may or may not be related but as soon as it happened the side branches thickened up too the thickness of the main stem , this plant has over taken the rest in size even being a full week too 15 days younger , it's certainly not ideal but it really does not appear too have slowed down the growth and may well go in my favour , this lady really did stretch out from week 4 into 5 and is showing no sign of slowing down , her side branches are very thick almost as thick as the main stem , her leaf production was minimal and I have only had too remove very few too expose the bud sites , the yellowing seems too be recovering now and most of the plant is green now , Update , Now gone a lush green colour instead of that horrible yellow , and the buds have already started too purple , she has also stepped up a gear with her nutrient intake almost drinking 6 pints since Thursday , She seems too have slowed down on the stretch and has so meany bud site scattered all over her with as the diary name suggests black roses everywhere , and note too any seed banks reading this if there is not a purple stain out there already called black rose now is your chance lol and Iwant a sample pack first kinda like the tester :) Now defoliation , as you can see they really didn't seem too mind at all being stripped and within a couple of days they had all replenished the lost leaves and even this week olive had to pull the odd few off as they have grown out , Method , well all info now is simple , Anything I cannot tuck under something that is blocking a bid site with shade I remove too middle or bottom , Everything else stays , I just stand above the plant and pull off anything covering the sites , it's really as simple as that , I see some strip them until there is nothing left on but a few sugar leaves , but for me didn't like the look of the plants , for me the growing process is just as much fun as the fruits ,

ANTHOCYANIN production is primarily controlled by the Cryptochrome (CR1) Photoreceptor ( !! UV and Blue Spectrums are primary drivers in the production of the pigment that replaces chlorophyll, isn't that awesome! 1. Diverse photoreceptors in plants Many civilizations, including the sun god of ancient Egypt, thought that the blessings of sunlight were the source of life. In fact, the survival of all life, including humans, is supported by the photosynthesis of plants that capture solar energy. Plants that perform photosynthesis have no means of transportation except for some algae. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor various changes in the external environment and respond appropriately to the place to survive. Among various environmental information, light is especially important information for plants that perform photosynthesis. In the process of evolution, plants acquired phytochrome, which mainly receives light in the red light region, and multiple blue light receptors, including his hytropin and phototropin, in order to sense the light environment. .. In addition to these, an ultraviolet light receptor named UVR8 was recently discovered. The latest image of the molecular structure and function of these various plant photoreceptors (Fig. 1), focusing on phytochrome and phototropin. Figure 1 Ultraviolet-visible absorption spectra of phytochrome, cryptochrome, phototropin, and UVR8. The dashed line represents each bioactive absorption spectrum. 2. Phytochrome; red-far red photoreversible molecular switch What is phytochrome? Phytochrome is a photochromic photoreceptor, and has two absorption types, a red light absorption type Pr (absorption maximum wavelength of about 665 nm) and a far-red light absorption type Pfr (730 nm). Reversible light conversion between the two by red light and far-red light, respectively(Fig. 1A, solid line and broken line). In general, Pfr is the active form that causes a physiological response. With some exceptions, phytochrome can be said to function as a photoreversible molecular switch. The background of the discovery is as follows. There are some types of plants that require light for germination (light seed germination). From that study, it was found that germination was induced by red light, the effect was inhibited by subsequent far-red light irradiation, and this could be repeated, and the existence of photoreceptors that reversibly photoconvert was predicted. In 1959, its existence was confirmed by the absorption spectrum measurement of the yellow sprout tissue, and it was named phytochrome. Why does the plant have a sensor to distinguish between such red light and far-red light? There is no big difference between the red and far-red light regions in the open-field spectrum of sunlight, but the proportion of red light is greatly reduced due to the absorption of chloroplasts in the shade of plants. Similar changes in light quality occur in the evening sunlight. Plants perceive this difference in light quality as the ratio of Pr and Pfr, recognize the light environment, and respond to it. Subsequent studies have revealed that it is responsible for various photomorphogenic reactions such as photoperiodic flowering induction, shade repellent, and deyellowing (greening). Furthermore, with the introduction of the model plant Arabidopsis thaliana (At) and the development of molecular biological analysis methods, research has progressed dramatically, and his five types of phytochromes (phyA-E) are present in Arabidopsis thaliana. all right. With the progress of the genome project, Fi’s tochrome-like photoreceptors were found in cyanobacteria, a photosynthetic prokaryotes other than plants. Furthermore, in non-photosynthetic bacteria, a homologue molecule called bacteriophytochrome photoreceptor (BphP) was found in Pseudomonas aeruginosa (Pa) and radiation-resistant bacteria (Deinococcus radiodurans, Dr). Domain structure of phytochrome molecule Phytochrome molecule can be roughly divided into N-terminal side and C-terminal side region. PAS (Per / Arndt / Sim: blue), GAF (cGMP phosphodiesterase / adenylyl cyclase / FhlA: green), PHY (phyto-chrome: purple) 3 in the N-terminal region of plant phytochrome (Fig. 2A) There are two domains and an N-terminal extension region (NTE: dark blue), and phytochromobilin (PΦB), which is one of the ring-opening tetrapyrroles, is thioether-bonded to the system stored in GAF as a chromophore. ing. PAS is a domain involved in the interaction between signal transduction-related proteins, and PHY is a phytochrome-specific domain. There are two PASs and her histidine kinase-related (HKR) domain (red) in the C-terminal region, but the histidine essential for kinase activity is not conserved. 3. Phototropin; photosynthetic efficiency optimized blue light receptor What is phototropin? Charles Darwin, who is famous for his theory of evolution, wrote in his book “The power of move-ment in plants” published in 1882 that plants bend toward blue light. Approximately 100 years later, the protein nph1 (nonphoto-tropic hypocotyl 1) encoded by one of the causative genes of Arabidopsis mutants causing phototropic abnormalities was identified as a blue photoreceptor. Later, another isotype npl1 was found and renamed phototropin 1 (phot1) and 2 (phot2), respectively. In addition to phototropism, phototropin is damaged by chloroplast photolocalization (chloroplasts move through the epidermal cells of the leaves and gather on the cell surface under appropriate light intensity for photosynthesis. As a photoreceptor for reactions such as escaping to the side of cells under dangerous strong light) and stomata (reactions that open stomata to optimize the uptake of carbon dioxide, which is the rate-determining process of photosynthetic reactions). It became clear that it worked. In this way, phototropin can be said to be a blue light receptor responsible for optimizing photosynthetic efficiency. Domain structure and LOV photoreaction of phototropin molecule Phototropin molecule has two photoreceptive domains (LOV1 and LOV2) called LOV (Light-Oxygen-Voltage sensing) on the N-terminal side, and serine / on the C-terminal side. It is a protein kinase that forms threonine kinase (STK) (Fig. 4Aa) and whose activity is regulated by light. LOV is one molecule as a chromophore, he binds FMN (flavin mononucleotide) non-covalently. The LOV forms an α/βfold, and the FMN is located on a β-sheet consisting of five antiparallel β-strands (Fig. 4B). The FMN in the ground state LOV shows the absorption spectrum of a typical oxidized flavin protein with a triplet oscillation structure and an absorption maximum wavelength of 450 nm, and is called D450 (Fig. 1C and Fig. 4E). After being excited to the singlet excited state by blue light, the FMN shifts to the triplet excited state (L660t *) due to intersystem crossing, and then the C4 (Fig. 4C) of the isoaroxazine ring of the FMN is conserved in the vicinity. It forms a transient accretionary prism with the tain (red part in Fig. 4B Eα) (S390I). When this cysteine is replaced with alanine (C / A substitution), the addition reaction does not occur. The effect of adduct formation propagates to the protein moiety, causing kinase activation (S390II). After that, the formed cysteine-flavin adduct spontaneously dissociates and returns to the original D450 (Fig. 4E, dark regression reaction). Phototropin kinase activity control mechanism by LOV2 Why does phototropin have two LOVs? Atphot1 was found as a protein that is rapidly autophosphorylated when irradiated with blue light. The effect of the above C / A substitution on this self-phosphorylation reaction and phototropism was investigated, and LOV2 is the main photomolecular switch in both self-phosphorylation and phototropism. It turns out that it functions as. After that, from experiments using artificial substrates, STK has a constitutive activity, LOV2 functions as an inhibitory domain of this activity, and the inhibition is eliminated by photoreaction, while LOV1 is kinase light. It was shown to modify the photosensitivity of the activation reaction. In addition to this, LOV1 was found to act as a dimerization site from the crystal structure and his SAXS. What kind of molecular mechanism does LOV2 use to photoregulate kinase activity? The following two modules play important roles in this intramolecular signal transduction. Figure 4 (A) Domain structure of LOV photoreceptors. a: Phototropin b: Neochrome c: FKF1 family protein d: Aureochrome (B) Crystal structure of auto barley phot1 LOV2. (C) Structure of FMN isoaroxazine ring. (D) Schematic diagram of the functional domain and module of Arabidopsis thaliana phot1. L, A’α, and Jα represent linker, A’α helix, and Jα helix, respectively. (E) LOV photoreaction. (F) Molecular structure model (mesh) of the LOV2-STK sample (black line) containing A’α of phot2 obtained based on SAXS under dark (top) and under bright (bottom). The yellow, red, and green space-filled models represent the crystal structures of LOV2-Jα, protein kinase A N-lobe, and C-robe, respectively, and black represents FMN. See the text for details. 1) Jα. LOV2 C of oat phot1-to α immediately after the terminus Rix (Jα) is present (Fig. 4D), which interacts with the β-sheet (Fig. 4B) that forms the FMN-bound scaffold of LOV2 in the dark, but unfolds and dissociates from the β-sheet with photoreaction. It was shown by NMR that it does. According to the crystal structure of LOV2-Jα, this Jα is located on the back surface of the β sheet and mainly has a hydrophobic interaction. The formation of S390II causes twisting of the isoaroxazine ring and protonation of N5 (Fig. 4C). As a result, the glutamine side chain present on his Iβ strand (Fig. 4B) in the β-sheet rotates to form a hydrogen bond with this protonated N5. Jα interacts with this his Iβ strand, and these changes are thought to cause the unfold-ing of Jα and dissociation from the β-sheet described above. Experiments such as amino acid substitution of Iβ strands revealed that kinases exhibit constitutive activity when this interaction is eliminated, and that Jα plays an important role in photoactivation of kinases. 2) A’α / Aβ gap. Recently, several results have been reported showing the involvement of amino acids near the A’α helix (Fig. 4D) located upstream of the N-terminal of LOV2 in kinase photoactivation. Therefore, he investigated the role of this A’α and its neighboring amino acids in kinase photoactivation, photoreaction, and Jα structural change for Atphot1. The LOV2-STK polypeptide (Fig. 4D, underlined in black) was used as a photocontrollable kinase for kinase activity analysis. As a result, it was found that the photoactivation of the kinase was abolished when amino acid substitution was introduced into the A’α / Aβ gap between A’α and Aβ of the LOV2 core. Interestingly, he had no effect on the structural changes in Jα examined on the peptide map due to the photoreaction of LOV2 or trypsin degradation. Therefore, the A’α / Aβ gap is considered to play an important role in intramolecular signal transduction after Jα. Structural changes detected by SAXS Structural changes of Jα have been detected by various biophysical methods other than NMR, but structural information on samples including up to STK is reported only by his results to his SAXS. Not. The SAXS measurement of the Atphot2 LOV2-STK polypeptide showed that the radius of inertia increased from 32.4 Å to 34.8 Å, and the molecular model (Fig. 4F) obtained by the ab initio modeling software GASBOR is that of LOV2 and STK. It was shown that the N lobes and C lobes lined up in tandem, and the relative position of LOV2 with respect to STK shifted by about 13 Å under light irradiation. The difference in the molecular model between the two is considered to reflect the structural changes that occur in the Jα and A’α / Aβ gaps mentioned above. Two phototropins with different photosensitivity In the phototropic reaction of Arabidopsis Arabidopsis, Arabidopsis responds to a very wide range of light intensities from 10–4 to 102 μmol photon / sec / m2. At that time, phot1 functions as an optical sensor in a wide range from low light to strong light, while phot2 reacts with light stronger than 1 μmol photon / sec / m2. What is the origin of these differences? As is well known, animal photoreceptors have a high photosensitivity due to the abundance of rhodopsin and the presence of biochemical amplification mechanisms. The exact abundance of phot1 and phot2 in vivo is unknown, but interesting results have been obtained in terms of amplification. The light intensity dependence of the photoactivation of the LOV2-STK polypeptide used in the above kinase analysis was investigated. It was found that phot1 was about 10 times more photosensitive than phot2. On the other hand, when the photochemical reactions of both were examined, it was found that the rate of the dark return reaction of phot1 was about 10 times slower than that of phot2. This result indicates that the longer the lifetime of S390II, which is in the kinase-activated state, the higher the photosensitivity of kinase activation. This correlation was further confirmed by extending the lifespan of her S390II with amino acid substitutions. This alone cannot explain the widespread differences in photosensitivity between phot1 and phot2, but it may explain some of them. Furthermore, it is necessary to investigate in detail protein modifications such as phosphorylation and the effects of phot interacting factors on photosensitivity. Other LOV photoreceptors Among fern plants and green algae, phytochrome ɾphotosensory module (PSM) on the N-terminal side and chimera photoreceptor with full-length phototropin on the C-terminal side, neochrome (Fig. There are types with 4Ab). It has been reported that some neochromes play a role in chloroplast photolocalization as a red light receiver. It is considered that fern plants have such a chimera photoreceptor in order to survive in a habitat such as undergrowth in a jungle where only red light reaches. In addition to this, plants have only one LOV domain, and three proteins involved in the degradation of photomorphogenesis-related proteins, FKF1 (Flavin-binding, Kelch repeat, F-box 1, ZTL (ZEITLUPE)), LKP2 ( There are LOV Kelch Protein2) (Fig. 4Ac) and aureochrome (Fig. 4Ad), which has a bZip domain on the N-terminal side of LOV and functions as a gene transcription factor. 4. Cryptochrome and UVR8 Cryptochrome is one of the blue photoreceptors and forms a superfamily with the DNA photoreceptor photolyase. It has FAD (flavin adenine dinucle-otide) as a chromophore and tetrahydrofolic acid, which is a condensing pigment. The ground state of FAD is considered to be the oxidized type, and the radical type (broken line in Fig. 1B) generated by blue light irradiation is considered to be the signaling state. The radical type also absorbs in the green to orange light region, and may widen the wavelength region of the plant morphogenesis reaction spectrum. Cryptochrome uses blue light to control physiological functions similar to phytochrome. It was identified as a photoreceptor from one of the causative genes of UVR8 Arabidopsis thaliana, and the chromophore is absorbed in the UVB region by a Trp triad consisting of three tryptophans (Fig. 1D). It is involved in the biosynthesis of flavonoids and anthocyanins that function as UV scavengers in plants. Conclusion It is thought that plants have acquired various photoreceptors necessary for their survival during a long evolutionary process. The photoreceptors that cover the existing far-red light to UVB mentioned here are considered to be some of them. More and more diverse photoreceptor genes are conserved in cyanobacteria and marine plankton. By examining these, it is thought that the understanding of plant photoreceptors will be further deepened.

Bonjour à tous les padawans et les maîtres jedis La semaine 4 est déjà là! Décidément cette plante est vraiment exceptionnelle! Elle représente la force et j'en suis fier 😍 Je me donne pour defi que durant mon LST je fasse faire au tronc un tour sur lui meme. Ma plante est saine le LST ce passe relativement bien je l'ajuste tout les jour je le combine avec la technique du pincage d'Apex cela me permettra d'avoir une canopé plus homogène donc une meilleure pénétration lumineuse et par conséquent un meilleur rendement. Le pinçage est une pratique courante en horticulture. Beaucoup de cultivateurs l'utilisent pour améliorer le rendement de leurs plantations cannabiques ou autres. Il est souvent question de 'taille' des bourgeons apicaux. Cette taille se pratique également mais il n'est plus alors, à proprement parler, question de pinçage. A l'instar d'une taille, le pinçage va permettre de stimuler le développement des ramifications tout en préservant les sommités en vue de la floraison. Il est très utile pour uniformiser une canopée. Pour réaliser le pinçage, il vous suffit de presser 'fermement' la tige [entre le pouce et l'index] aux environs de l'apex jusqu'à sentir un léger 'crAck'. Cela aura pour résultat d'endommager les vaisseaux impliqués dans la circulation de la sève [situés dans le pourtour de la tige], la tige conserve toutefois une certaine rigidité. Pour obtenir le même résultat, il est également possible de vriller légèrement la tige sur elle-même. L'interruption du circuit d'alimentation entre le ou les apex et le reste du plant va provoquer un déséquilibre hormonal qui aura pour conséquence le développement des ramifications antérieures au point de pinçage. Jour 25 j'arrose mon pot normalement avec un quart de son volume en eau toujours avec un PH de 6.3 à cette eau j'ajoute 0.7 gramme de greenhouse feeding enhancer pour favoriser son développement racinaire. Par la suite je n'aurai plus qu'à ajuster mon LST jusqu'au stretch et surveiller mon arrosage, Je pincerai mes apex suivant la pousse de la plante pour uniformiser la canopé. Jour 26 à force de patience et de délicatesse j'ai réussi le défi que je me suis fixé en faisant faire au tronc un tour sur lui meme (photo jour 26) ce défi ma permis d'améliorer grandement la technique du LST. Au-delà de ça cela ma permis de donné au tronc une structure en forme de colonne vertébrale ce qui a pour conséquence une meilleure pénétration lumineuse et une belle canopé homogène. Que la force soit avec vous 💪

Week 11 (10-4 to 16-4) 10-4 Temperature: 24.4 degrees (lights on) 21.1 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 60% (highest) 52% (lowest) No pictures. Added 10L to the reservoir, and turned it on for a couple of minutes. 11-4 Temperature: 24.4 degrees (lights on) 21 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 61% (highest) 52% (lowest) 12-4 Temperature: 25.5 degrees (lights on) 22 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 65% (highest) 57% (lowest) Turned the reservoir on for a couple of minutes. 13-4 Temperature: 26.5 degrees (lights on) 23 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 65% (highest) 56% (lowest) 14-4 Temperature: 26.4 degrees (lights on) 22.1 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 64% (highest) 45% (lowest) Turned the reservoir on for a couple of minutes. The reservoir is almost empty, there is 850 ml left. 15-4 Temperature: 24.4 degrees (lights on) 20 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 59% (highest) 49% (lowest) No pictures. 16-4 Temperature: 23.5 degrees (lights on) 19.5 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 60% (highest) 53% (lowest) Today i defoliated both plants heavily for the last time, you can say i did a method called: schwazzing. Turned on the reservoir for a couple of minutes. (Till the AutoPots are full and the valve closes) Rised the pots aswell, so the canopy is very even. I let them recover from the heavy defoliation i did, and next week i will slowly increase the light's strength. (Now still at 50% 50cm)

This should be the final week where everything is sloppy and unprofessional but hey, you got to see what I’ve been working with

Flipped these ladies 06 Oct 23 (Friday). After watering 09 Oct 23 (Monday) I walked in and the before SOG photos are what it looked like, I put up the new net and tied a few tops down to spread the canopy out. With the new trellis in place I'm going to let theses ladies rip and add another trellis once they outgrow their current one.

I've been feeding and pulled a few fan leaves. They are all different heights and getting really tall despite only being in two litre pots. The tallest pheno is already showing red buds.

7/18 Plants are looking great. I was able to rearrange the plants so they have a little bit more space and so I can get around every plant. I have small random pest damage (i.e. I caught a four lined plant bug while hunting jpn beetles) but not enough h to warrant treatment. I will probably spray before flower. Sun's out amd plants were praying. I rotated a couple and it only took a few hours for them to "straighten out." I went to look again rhis morning and made the final determination to expand the cage. I'm looking for the 2x4's and the wire in the next couple days. The work that ive done now will but me sometime. I wonder how this rain impacted my soil. 7/19 Plants are looking fantastic. The stretch is starting. One purple punch looks like it's beginning to flower. I think I'm entering the transition period. Jpn beetle damage is evident but not significant. I defoliated a leaf with a a leafminwr or something in it. It's so much easier to get around the plants now. I'm seeing some chunks missing sporadically though. Went to the roses out back and found TONS of jpn beetleson top of each other reproducing. They destroyed that rose bush. I'm going to keep it as a trap plant. My dad's girlfriend wanted to spray it but that doesn't make sense as theflowers are all gone. Dad's grabbing the materials to extend the cage today I think. Right now I can get around every plant but the two big ones in the back. I just cant get to the backs of them and they are huge. Almost reaching the top of the cage. A 4'-6' extension will do wonders in flower. Can't wait. UPDATE: Dad got the 2x4's and we assembled the extension and attached it. He's grabbing the wire as I type this. This worked out beautifully. I had no idea how big the blueberry cheese in the 50 gallon was! This extension (4ft i think) is PERFECT! Then I can get a little extra wire and pull it out if I wanted to. I think I have another 2x4 that I'm going to use in the middle. Lots of great pics and a video I'll upload tomorrow. Hot af today and humidity still super high. Even the commercial dudes was surprised I don't have wpm l and that judging by some of my plants structure that I may do better than I think. I certainly hope so. I WATERED 3 GALLONS OVER THE WHOLE GARDEN. The blueberry cheese in smart pots were drooping. They drink far more water than tje others. I would've given more but we are supposed to have thunderstorms. I left my back tarp off for the night. It will increase airflow and wind is down. I feel like this is going to be my year. 7/20 I updated and loaded everything on the app but notjing would save. Did it again in the website hopfully this saves i didnt put it all up. Didn't water the plants today. Bags seemed okay weight wise. Good thing I did the extension yesterday because those three plants were drooping they were so thirsty. I focused most of the water yesterday on those plants that needed it. The others were somewhat dry but still had some weight. Like i said the blc drinks much more water than any of the other plants. I'm impressed with the growth I'm seeing. Especially since I have been being very stingy with the water and I've only fed like twice and that was just the kelp me/you and big bloom in negligible amounts. I'm watching for deficiencies. I'm just not seeing them. I'm picking up the wire and finishing the extension and then rearranging things. I'll update. UPDATE: WATERED 4 GALLONS CONCENTRATING ON THE PLANTS THAT WERE DROOPING THE MOST. FINISHED ENCLOSURE AND INCREASED PLANT SPACE. TRELLIS WILL GO UP THIS WEEK. VIDEOS WILL BE UPLOADED TOMORROW. 7/21 I should've watered more volume last night. I noticed two plants that seemed much lighter than the rest. After some deliberation I gave them each a half gallon of water. One was the purple punch in the 10 that's huge amd the other was that huge blueberry cheese. I think I'm going to swap places with them, take out a pallet and get some other way to elevate that ONE plant and I'll have even more room. Then I'll add my supports. It's a dream working in there now. I noticed some small interior leaves being used up and dieing. I defoliated them but it was only a couple. I'll need to start nutes at some point. Doesn't need it yet though. I'm going to add some kelp me/you for the heat stress. I need to get the watering down better but it's more difficult when they each have different needs. I kinda have to read the plant. I'd rather be overwatered than underwatered. I tried to upload what I could but some won't. UPDATE: I went over to clip off some fencing that was doubled up AND just to check on tge girls. Found two caterpillars (small but hairy so they were older not the inch worms and possibly what has been contributing to damage on those plants. Things are spread out so it will be harder for insects to move from plant to plant and I have better air flow. I worry that leaving my tarp off might lead to high winds and plants not able to take it buf I digress. I'll add supports later. Plants are huge and drinking far more water than I've been giving them. When I got there several were drooped right over and dry as a bone. The bags are essentially all roots now. I mixed up 8 gallons of water and split it between the plants. I gave less to the two Co trainer plants that weren't drooping and the 10 I watered yesterday that wasn't drooping but for the most part the ones that needed if got at least a gallon or more. The others a little under a gallon. It might rain A LITTLE tonight too. Oh, and since it's been so hot I added 1/2 tsp per gallon of kelp me kelp you to help the plants deal with heat stress. I also noticed that some of the very bottom interior leaves are being used up. I have a feeling ill need to switch to nutes pretty soon. Plus I need to suppirt those plants if I'm going to leave that tarp off and Gove them air. Took a video. But it won't upload here. I'll have to wait till tomm. 7/22 Didn't have much timevthis morning bit I dod a video. Boy those plants loved that water and that kelp. This morning everyone was standing straight up at attention. Supposed to get rain last night but didn't. Good thing I watered. I think I'm going to up the water next watering and then again to the 10% mark if necessary. Especially with the Blueberry cheeses. I'm noticing that a FEW INTERIOR leaves are showing nute deficiencies so I'm probably going to have to start feeding soon. I'll update later. UPDATE: Went back over and cut off the extra wire. I'm going to need to water more volume. Specifically on two plants. The two huge blueberry cheese in 20 gallon smart bags dries out much faster than the rest. I'll have to out that on a different schedule or increase the amount given. Next watering will be 1.5 or 2 gallons a plant and it might be tomorrow from what I was seeing. It's super hot and with the added airflow the bags dry out faster. I also went through EACH plant looking for pests and defoliating old leaves that needed it. Plants are still nice and green but a VERY few older interior leaves are showing deficiencies. I know this is Normal especially since they are trying n g to transition to flower. I also saw pest damage on a couple plants. Four lined plant bug. I already found the one on the other plant and killed it but I'm considering doing a spray before flower. I'm thinking either captain Jack as a "catch all", BT which works great but mostly just on pillars or the organocide bee safe 3 in one pesticide. I also have pyrethium and other things. Thus far picking things off manually has been good enough. At the very least they will get an application of BT very soon. 7/23 Held off on watering this morning. Supposed to get thunder storms I DID split a gallon with two blueberry cheese that were the lightest in the 20 gallon smart pots. Thet drink way more. My water volume is going to need to increase. We haven't had nearly enough rain. I'm going to bump it up to 1.5 to 2 gallons each plant which will be 10% for the 20s and a little less for the others. I'm still seeing various pest damage. Nothing bad but I found another couples leaves that were chomped on by a four lined plant bug so I'm debating applying something tonight when I water. I'm also noticing old leaves being used up and some interior leaves showing slight deficiencies. It will be time to start nutes soon. I'll update as I go. UPDATE: GOT THE FEELING I NEEDED TO CHECK THE PLANTS. SOMETHING DODNT LOOK RIGHT ON THE CAMS. WENT OVER AND EVERY PLANT BUT THE TWO I SPLIT A GALLON WITH AND THE PLANT IN THE 50 WERE DROOPED RIGHT OVER. LIFELESS. I SHOULD'VE WATERED THIS MORNING BUT I DIDNT HAVE TIME. I FIGURED THEY COULD WAIT UNTIL NIGHT. EACH PLANT GOT 1.5 GALLONS AT LEAST. I USED SIXTEEN OR SEVENTEEN GALLONS ON THE GARDEN. I GAVE EACH CONTAINER PLANT ONE GALLON AND GOT RUN OFF FROM BOTH. IM NOTICING SKIGHT FADING IN LEAVES BUT IM NOT INTRODUCING NUTES TO UNDERWATERED PLANTS. I THINK 10% IS GONNA BE TGE MAGIC NUMBER. 2 GALLONS EACH. EVEN THE 10 GALLON SMART POT. ALMLST AS BIG AS THE 30S BUT DRIES OUT QUICKER. 7/24 Plants looked fantastic this morning. Defoliated a few leaves that needed it. Showed my commercial buddy and he said things looked fantastic. Since the soils still holding nutes and I'm not seeing many deficiencies I may hold off on feeding. I'm starting early flower now. I will be using nutes soon. I think ive got the watering schedule pretty much down.

Welcome to Day 36 .... first Day of pre flowering 😍🙏👍

This girl has got some absolutely beautiful leaves. They have a dark tinge to them, that I don't know if it shows through on the pictures, but it is very cool. I think I may have too many buds for the size of my grow space but I can't decide which to trim or if I'm just overthinking things. Ill leave her for now and just tuck away leaves as the bud sites start to develop and then later trim any, if there are any of course, that may not have time or space to grow....... so for now I'll leave her to decide. she looks indica dominant (I've not checked) which suits me, I'm a fan of indica in a growing sense for my space, but means she will be a thirsty girl in my experience, compared to the sativa dominants. You can see in the photos that she has started to take square shape for her canopy space. I was once worried about her leaves touching the £1 emergency blanket I use as light reflection in the grow cupboard but has never been an issue its way too thin to hold anyway near enough heat to ever be an issue so the shaping also come somewhat naturally. shes under a selection of home standard LED bulbs around 10w, random blasts of UVB from a reptile light (I think helps growing with a slight slowing of the auto influence. My own thoughts from previous experiments only.) the other lights remain on 24 hours with a few 5 min breaks in the timer to cool the bulbs down a touch. I of course talk to her/them on a regular basis which has some scientific backing somewhere showing benefit for both of us.

Empezamos nuestro Seguimiento através de Aptus, esta le daremos 3 meses de crecimiento en una maceta de 20L y luego pasaremos a florecer en Invierno. Intentaremos sacar el Máximo rendimiento con las macetas de tela, junto algunas Bacterias para dar vidilla a la cosa Farmers buenos humos!🍁

Se observa ec estable durante toda la semana Se observa ph bajando progresivamente durante la semana hasta 5.5 el cual se corrige cuando se añade agua (20 litros cada 3 días) Se realiza cambio de la solución nutritiva el ultimo día de la semana 26/08/23 dejando los parámetros de EC en 1.5mS y PH en 6.2. Estos valores se pondrán en la tabla de la próxima semana

Hello growers. This week rocket banana did good. She still grew a couple of cm. She also has very long floweringhairs, and it looks cool. I already grew a banana kind before and it looks a bit similar. The smell is getting stronger. Also on a bad side, i had a herma in my tent so i hope no other plants aren’t pollinated. I removed the hermas. See you next week!

Honestly I’m shocked at how big she’s gotten so far. The growth over the last few weeks is crazy. Completely filling up the 2x2 no more room to work with on the sides. Even with lst she’s at 31in tall on four larger main colas. Still watering in so hum soil with just fish shit and recharge, did have an issue for a few days with humidity and the light being too close but got that solved. Still have the very bright yellow tips on the leaves, haven’t really been worried about it too much lately as the problem has not gotten worse. Has been there for a few weeks now, but overall she’s looking very good and I’m excited for final weight off this sucker.