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December 4th:starting in the winter, veg and bloom will happen under 400watt hps to keep the grow room warm. the seeds have been germinating for 2 days with the wet paper towel technique, they got root and are now in soil and the rockwool cube.
for now im just waiting for the seeds to show root coming out of the rockwool, then i transplant to the netpot with clay pellets straight in the dwc, untill then they get fluorescent light (max 7 days)
these are autoflowers so they get 18 or 20 hours light.
nutrients General hydroponics
three part :micro gro bloom
and calmag
water: rainwater (25ppm)
i hope the room wont cool of too much when the lights go out.
Day 1 (December 5)
seeds start to come above the rockwool and the soil
Day 2 (december 6)
stems start to stretch i give them both pure rain water with 100ppm calmag when they feel dry.
Day 4 (december 8)
still no root visible out of the rockwool
Day 5 (december 9)
root visible outside of rockwool cube and transplant to the 55Liter rdwc
air pumps 10l/minute
Day 7 (december 11)
root comes trough netpot, i lowered the water by removing 3Liters
day 9:
the roots start to come out of the netpot slowly (see picture)
the water level is 1 inch under the netpot, the bubbles make the roots wet.
nothinh much to do here just waiting for water change.
the ph has gone up to 6.0
maybe because of the rockwool touching the water when the water level was higher. in the next days i expect the roots to go in the water
day 11 (december 15)
roots com trough net and i did water change with double strength (507ppm)
calmag to around 200 and 100ppm of each three part bottle
day 15 (december 19)
start of week 3
roots everywhere plant starts to take of now, the hydro is slightly bigger then the soil plant
day 17:
the hydro plant made a new set of leaves in just 2 days!
day 19:
i cut off the lowest leaves of both plants. i do this because on any autoflower these leaves produce a stem that wastes a lot of energy on small nugs.
day 20: hydro plant got topped (3nodes)
day 21: soil plant got topped (3nodes)
same strategy with the topping, i do this early (i could pinch them off with my fingers) to reduce the time to recover. the plants bounce back like they didnt feel it and with the lowest leaf and small tiny stems cut off, these plants will produce 6 main stems with nice big and dense buds instead of a huge christmass tree with more leaves than bud.
Day 22 - december 26
The hydro goes really fast now we can see the difference in growth vs the soil
ppm 500 Ph 6.1
day 23
water change - 730ppm
day 25
i cut off the 2 top fanleaves of the hydro and soil plant wich are blocking light on the stems underneath, now both plants have 6 main stems so both plants will have the same structure. nothing needs to be cut from here its just veg a bit longer and wait for flowers.
also did LST on all 6 branches each has a string on them with a pencil attached to them to bend the young stems gently as you can see in the final video of this week.
day 28:
the hydro plant recovered from the too light nute mix new growth is healthy again theres just brown spots on the oldest water leaves. temps are also a bit low when lights turn of (15ceclius) in the res. i put the timer of the light now at 20/24 to keep it 2h warmer.
2 problems with the hydro plant:
1: brown dots on LOWEST leaves
2: verical growing stems
please watch the pictures of day 23 to see the details. stems snap very easy at the nodes when i try to bend em outside (hydro plant). the soil plant doesnt snap. calmag ppm was 200
Problem 1- Brown dots are calmag or rather WERE calmag issues if the new growth is absent of said dots.. in December, because of growing in solution, calcium, magnesium and iron can get locked out easily and quickly. Maintaining a pH at 5.8-6.0 for veg and 5.4-5.8 for flower as well as water changes ever so often ( timing is dependent on the size of your rezivoirs and number and size of plant(s) per rezivoir. ) Solution ppm should be 800-900 for hard veg, 500-600 for early veg, and 1050 to 1200 ppm for deep flower. When changing out water, aim for a ppm lower than max to leave room for calmag between water changes. I usually go by the 2 top up change method, when the equivalent of the whole rezivoir has been added through watering, ex 5 gal bucker, over 1 week I've added 5 gals of water to keep levels right, then I do a water change, sometimes the same procedure will take 2 weeks to occur,. Depends on how much water the plants are transpiring.
Problem 2. Vertical stems are a genetics and high speed growth acceleration that is inherent in DWC systems.. technique I use involves removing the base fan leaf by bending it down against the lower trunk till it snaps clean off at the base rather than cutting it.. this ensures that when the stem is bent out, there isn't a leverage point occuring against the leaf stem which causes the branch to split as in your pic, (don't worry though, they heal quick). Give it a good week to heal before attempting another bend, and brace the base with your free hands thumb and index finger. Also, allowing them to stretch a bit more first andor bending less and more often over a longer period of time...
Happy growing! Keep it Green.
if u wanna skip details just read the CAP LETTERS
day 29 - januari 2
waterleaves from under the stems got cut off, also trimmed the lowest branches because the leaves were getting too big
the soil plant has gotten no trim or cuts at all
day 31
the ph of the res was 5.3 i changed water , roots look brown, not rotten or slimy just brown.
day 32
the hydro plant gets healthy growth after the water change. ph is still too low (5.5) im waiting for my *PH up*
i ordered online. never tought i would need it lol. she goes well on 5.5 but not enough calmag is absorbed like it does on 6.2
The pictures of day 32 display the difference is very big in the stems, the soil plant only got topped while the hydro plant had already a litle trim on the lowest branches and the branches above (in the midle of the bush where i topped them) so she got more stress and still is bigger then the soil.
day 33
i got no ph up (for now yikes)
sooooo i took 8 liters out of the res and replaced it with pure rainwater and 170 ppm calmag in it without nutrients to keep the acid level a bit higher.
it worked as u can see in the final pictures the plant gets new growth a bit faster.
ph up should be here by end of the week.
day 35:
plant start to stretch finnally, while i was doing LST later in the evening one of the top stems just snapped off completely OOOPS 😆.
theres still a lot of branching going on and a nice bush she will recover very fast from this loss as i summoned the Cannabis Gods into my room as the planets lined up and perfected my PH up to 6 by adding the purest rainwater from the universe the roots cleaned themselves back to pearlwhite and started absorbing the nutes faster then ever. in all silence i knew this was my destiny and the stems grew so fast i could hear them grow. the whole experience was too much as i collapsed to the ground and stood up left the room and knew... i would never see these ph and calmag problems ever again and went down the stairs with my new powers
THE PLANTS BOTH GOT GERMINATED ON SAME DATE. BOTH GOT TOPPED ON SAME NODE. I WAS FORCED TO TRIM 4 BRANCHES OF THE HYDROPLANT BECAUS IS WAS BLOCKING TOO MUCH LIGHT I ALSO CUT OFF THE 4 BIGGEST WATERLEAVES ON THE MAIN STEM.
THE SOILPLANT DID NOT NEED ANY TRIMS AS SHE IS NOT GROWING AT AN INSANE SPEED, HOWEVER THE SOIL PLANT LOOKS HEALTHIER AND BIGGER BECAUSE THE FANLEAVES ARE STILL THERE. IF U WATCH THE STEMS IN THE PICTURES OF DAY 32 U CAN CLEARLY SEE THE HYDRO IS WAY BIGGER. I NEED TO CORRECT MY PH SO SHE ABSORBS MORE CALCIUM MAGNESIUM FOR EXPLOSIVE GROWTH.
why does my ph drop from 6.0 to 5.3 (in a week)?
also why do my roots have a brown color? they arent slimy and no smell, i heard this is because of GHE nutes. should i be worried ? as u can see the plant looks healthy but doesnt grow too fast right now.
Are you using anything to keep the res bennies happy like hydroguard or z7 ect... The browning could be the start of pythos. If your res temp is above 21°c then you will be bang on the conditions that dwc killer loves !. Keepn the res below 19°c by any means possible. One great way is to cover all your pots with silver bubblewrap insulation. The kind used for roof insulating or wrapping round Jacuzzi's. It is cheap and works amazingly well. ( check my diary of rdwc for example of the pots duringn heatwaves. worked so well !) You also need plenty of micro air bubbles for the bucket to make surface Dissolvable oxygen . The Ph drop is also a part of the plants deposits back into the res during exchanges. Ideally ,starting at 6.2 and slowly dropping is what you want as it allows the full oh range to help release and uptake the elements from nutes . swing is good and also can be a good indicator of how they are actually feeding too if you check ppm as well. I will put a chart on my current grows BlackBerry week 10 pictures to show you the best way to read a dwc feeding and ph swings meanings and fixes. It is a great way to dial in your feeds to the sweet spot every time. Any lockout issues require a flushing of ph'ed water for a day to reset the root access too. Hope the chart on my BlackBerry fast buds week 10 helps. ( doing it now)
fresh water 580ppm
ph 6.2
i decided to go a bit lower in ppm as this is an autoflower
stretch starts, there isnt much time left before flower maybe 1 week.
i started counting “day 1” as when the seed popped open thats why it looks like this plant is 1 week behind
day 40: little defoliation
at this week u can compare the stems and bush in the videos, keep in mind this is my first hydro grow and i messed the PPM and PH a few times..
also snapped a whole branch of the hydro plant around week 4.
still the hydro plant looks bigger and fatter stem. lol
(wednesday, start week 8)
plants both start flowering, the water in the Dwc has only 400 ppm. this plant drinks a lot instead of feeding
later on this week:
changed water to 650ppm (friday)
soil plant looks like its over or underwatered. i used 1/3 perlite and water once a week 1 liter. the pot weighs normal.. maybe i should keep watering everyday half a liter ? the video and pictures of these problems are added to this week,
my PH meter was broke causing me to give the wrong Ph for a while.. i now use the liquid ph test kit from GHE, she starts to look better now. ill be happy to finish this i dont like all the leaves on this strain
ph meter is broken. i use ghe liquid to read ph lol
ph goes down every night. 650ppm is still too high for this strain, drinks a liter everyday
i need a bluelab ph/ec meter
2 Februari:
the buds start to appear on the hydro plant with thc everywhere lol
My duds do NOT get big at all. this is an XXL yielder, is my bulb done ? (its the third run now on 18/24)
or do i just got to be patient ? also the soilplant look TERRIBLE (same strain same AGE) help pls.
I feel like your nutrient amount is weak , you should increase the dosage.
The blue dream Matic can be long to flower depending on the phenotype so maybe you'r on a long flowering phenotype
The bulbs can be used during 2 or 3 run , after the efficiency is decreasing and you can still grow under it but with a different final result.
buds fatten up now,
The hydro plant is destroying the soil completely, the buds are 3x as big lol.
i started this grow during the cold winter temperatures, thats why everything got slowed down a few weeks. i expect to harvest withing 2-3weeks from here.
Reaper
