We continue to gain weight Some areas are already beginning to darken, which will significantly reduce their drying out during drying. New shoots climb even on the lower tier, the initiated second wave will be shorter, but not inferior in its intensity to the first wave

Very Early flower about to some 50/50 284 dry amendments next week apart from that just been using my tap water not been pHing and shes been happy as rain

🎩🌈🍬 sweet candy gas ⛽️💨

It was an bad 1st time DWC grow...learned some lessons the hard way.. Outcome weight is not very good but it's smokeable sticky stuff and i got alot of Hydro XP

Jour 39, tout va bien, je repasse en période 16/8 et je vais observer. Jour 40, sol humide PH 7.5, je ne sais pas pourquoi. Je vais faire un arrosage foliaire 1L (Terra Bloom 5ml et Sugar Royal 3ml) et un peu d'eau 1L. Jour 41, ph stabilisé 6.5. Jour 42, j'ai enlevé quelques feuilles pour l’aérer un peu.

In this week i decided to only give them another startbooster which contains some rootstimulator. Some days after feeding with startbooster, i gave them some water. There are still so many kinds of nutrients in the soil. The plants look a little light green, i have been checking my run-off water and it should be fine( still higher EC then i used to have but i have already explained why it is that way). I'm not overwatering so it's not a (N)itrogen problem which can most of the time results into light green leaves. ( when there is no nitrogen in the soil the roots will not or barely take any water(nutrients) I had the same thing with other sativas in the past, behind the window before and in later stages it got solved. I still have to remind myself that it is a fun-outside-grow so i should'nt complain about low humidity(40-45) which should be 85%, temperature 20-21 degrees which should be 26-27, being behind a glas window instead of better exposure to the sunlight or lamps, not having fans on it to get better firm stems or closer lightsource so they don't stretch that much. For now i start getting them used to the sunlight by carefully putting them in shade places or with a few hours sunlight. It went well but except for the bigger pot plant, you can see on the highest leaf that it got a little bit curly but still not a big issue. I might buy some Canna Cure this week. Canna cure is good against insects, molts and such. It also holds some nutrients. Very usefull for outside growing. Since i don't want to overwater or overfeed my plants because i want them to root alot, this might be a solution to give them some extra nutrients, it also makes the leaves more green. When the plants are getting bigger and more thick i want to start doing LTS, i order to do so i just have a little bit time left to bully them a bit with keeping them dry for rooting. I don't want to do that while doing LTS. Don't mind the temperature meter, its not 32 degrees outside. It was still inside behind the window between the curtains. It hotter there. ( might also be the reason for some stretch in the plants)

Hey guys! Girls are in the bloom as hell and i am happy as hell too 😂😂 Used a bit of defoliation to give more light to the buds and CannaBioGen Delta 9 spray as well. Overall it's seems to going fine. Can't wait, can't wait 😋

She´s amazing, really strong and so beautiful. I made some defoliation and she´s even´t get notice. Their buds are amazing, getting a lot of top buds who makes me dream with a good heavy harvest.

Welcome to week 3 of veg. They’ve been growing about 1” per day lately. I’m planning to SCROG these three girls with a portable scrog screen. Supplies arrive today and I’m anxious to test this. (Note that my portable scrog screen didn’t work, so I’m using a 2x4 stretch screen). So far the self watering feeders are working well. The reservoir ph does tend to climb, so I make regular adjustments by adding RO water to the nutrient mix and using ph down. The PPM of the nutrients is climbing too, so adding RO dilutes that. As an example, it had climbed from 925 ppm to 1080 ppm overnight. I diluted it back down to 880 ppm. Saturday: installed scrog net Sunday: checked reservoir ph (6.4) and ppm (970). Added ph down. Adjusted scrog net. Discoloration in leaves appears to be worsening. Waiting for a new dehumidifier to arrive. With all of the humidity that the fiber pots put off, I’m going to need a dehumidifier in flower. Monday: ran pipes for humidifier, heater and dehumidifier through a different tent outlet. I’m ready to start dehumidifying at flower flip. Removed humidifier since I won’t need it until after the harvest (I dry in my tent ideally). Topped off reservoir water with a heavy emphasis on CalMag. Reservoirs are at a ph of 6.0 and 750ppm. Lowered ppm due to start of burnt leaf tips on one plant. Wednesday. Lowered ph in reservoir from 6.4 to 6.1 with ph down and diluted nutrients. Lowered ppm from 780 to 700. Removed growth below the SCROG net. Adjusted lighting to a DLI of 35 which proved too intense for the plants, so I backed it down to 30 DLI. Thursday: wrapped up the week by giving them a foliar spray after lights went out. Feeding 5ml/g or CalMag and 30ml/g of Seaweed Extract. Topped off reservoirs using 6ml/g of micro, 9ml/g of Bloom, Seaweed and 2ml CalMag.

Hi guys lost track of where i am now lol so we will run until there done lol I got a seprate dry tent now so makes my life easier. 1 purple startdawg lst 1 green startsawg lst 1 cheese lst 1 cheese oh natraul grown with polyploid 2 x pot noodle blueberry 1 x blueberry lst 3 x baby photo period big budha cheese. Leave me a comment let me know your thoughts so far.

During week 4 (=flowering week 2) the 18 CANNALOPE HAZE plants from DNA-GENETICS grew like hell and started to develop their first white hairs (=female pistils of the plant). The speed in which the little white crowns appear is astounding to me, I LOVE IT! The lamps are now hung at the producer recommended distance of 22 cm (=LUMATEK) and 45 cm (=SANlight) and both run at 100% power (=no more dimming for now!). The difference between the left side (=Lumatek) and right side (=SANlight) can be seen clearly in the videos. The plants on the right under the Q6W-Gen. 2 LED-Lamps from SANlight have a darker, healthier green color and have produced VISIBLY MORE FLOWERS then the plants on the left side under the Lumatek PRO 600W. Lets see how this goes further next week...😎

She's doing great, I defoliated a bit at the end of this week. Just the big fan leaves not connected to a bud sight. Any big fan leaf attached to a bud sight I bound. I just want to keep a clear line of sight to where I defoliated. These buds are so dense I can't see through to the stem. Trichs are still glassy. No amber anywhere. Even the trichs on the fan leaves are still glassy. This wild goddess might be sticking around for a bit longer.

we are finally geting closer to the end, had some minor over feeding issues but quickly sorted so pretty much no damage just few leaves have some signs of burns, nothing drastic one more week of normal feeding and then I will add pK 13/14 for a week and finally 2 weeks flushing I bought humidifier but It doesn't really do much work. Humidity is still around 50% so i hope good airflow will be anough to avoid any mould

Another week has passed. An eventful week in our lives, but the plants came back on track. Some regular water and defoliating made them happy again. I see lots of similarities between the two strains. Where the XL Runtz ae a true XL and sees to adapt a little better to the conditions than the Forbidden Runtz. But the fight isn't over yet. We still have weeks to go and the forbidden Runtz might recover, my two cents is this: Fastbuds are just a little bit less heat resistant and temps went up last weeks with the SP -3000 on high. Also the XL Runz are closer to the intake of cooler air. So it would be fair to trade places what I do coming week. Thanks again, see you next week!

Day 21. Looking good, been giving her general Hydroponics maxigro. Best all in one fertilizer on the market. Day 22. Lst and hst, removing 1 or 2 leafs per day to open her up. Day 27. Supercropped main cola. Looking good.

The buds have developed very well this week. I had to run the dehumidifier for a few days because it was too humid for me. I had had experiences with mold and therefore preferred to be more careful I am very satisfied... The gorillas already look very sticky and shine silver, like a silverback gorilla. The Honey Cream looks like I remember it...very fluffy and hairy calyxs --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Controller AC Infinity Pro - connector for the external light control, RJ-12 - 2 plugs with which I can control dehumidifier and humidifier. - 2 fans run 24/7, 1 Oscillating from spider farmer Light - 12/12 h PPFD - 900-1000 µmol VPD - 1,3 - 1,6 week average RH: 54,8 % Temp: 24,2 ° VPD: 1,38 kPa

Thank you. Gave her a cocktail to help with stress. Added 1st net for lateral support, not so much now, but for later. Blue light is absorbed by photoreceptor proteins called phototropins, which trigger a hormonal response that causes cells on the shaded side to elongate, making the plant bend toward the light. Try and fill this side a little. She is quite big already, just needs to find her stride again after the undue torture. 5 apex stems with 20-30 mini cola, let them develop a little, with the apical dominance shattered, all those 20-30 will all compete with each other as soon as that stretch is initiated. Key to a good stretch is making sure the plant is cycling efficiently, with large ATP conversions occurring lights out. For now, I'm keeping light intensity high. A plant will slow its vertical growth in very high light intensities, leading to a more compact form with thicker stems and leaves. This response is a protective mechanism against light stress, which can damage the photosynthetic apparatus and lead to symptoms like leaf scorching, yellowing, and brittleness. Instead of growing taller, the plant invests its energy into creating a more robust, stress-tolerant structure. Providing plants with necessary antioxidants helps protect the photosynthetic apparatus by scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS) that cause damage from excess light. UV light exposure can impact the xanthophyll cycle by either enhancing its photoprotective role or causing damage, depending on the intensity and type of UV radiation. UV exposure can trigger the synthesis of more xanthophyll cycle pigments to increase the plant's capacity to dissipate excess energy, but it can also cause direct damage, particularly to Photosystem II, and may lead to a decrease in the de-epoxidation state (DEPS ratio) which indicates a reduced capacity to dissipate excess energy. Plants can respond to UV stress by increasing the synthesis of xanthophyll cycle pigments, such as violaxanthin and zeaxanthin, to improve their photoprotective capacity. UV-induced changes in xanthophyll cycle pigments can be linked to a plant's overall tolerance to high radiation stress. The xanthophyll cycle helps protect against photoinhibition, which is especially important when the plant is exposed to high levels of both UV and visible light. High doses of UV radiation can directly damage photosynthetic components, including the proteins, lipids, and pigments in the thylakoid membranes. Exposure to UV radiation can have a mixed effect on the de-epoxidation state (DEPS ratio) of the xanthophyll cycle pigments. In some cases, UV can inhibit the conversion of violaxanthin to zeaxanthin, resulting in a lower DEPS ratio and a reduced capacity for energy dissipation. However, the total pool of xanthophyll cycle pigments may increase, and this enhanced pool size could provide a greater potential for photoprotection despite a lower DEPS ratio. The xanthophyll cycle works alongside other mechanisms, such as the accumulation of flavonoids (UV screens), to protect the plant from UV-induced damage. Blue light repairs 100% UV-induced damage in plants through a process called photoreactivation, which uses a light-dependent enzyme called photolyase. This enzyme uses energy from blue and UV-A light to directly reverse the damaging pyrimidine dimers in the DNA caused by UV-B radiation, a key mechanism for maintaining the plant's genetic integrity. After carbon, light, water, temperature, and nutrients, the limiting factor of a plant's growth is often its own internal factors or the amount of a key ingredient. Chlorophyll concentration is one such factor, as the amount of this pigment limits how much light can be captured for photosynthesis. Other factors include chloroplast number, respiration rate, and the concentration of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, as plants are often in a CO2-deficient condition. 60x60x18=64800seconds x 700 = 45,360,000moles. 45DLI Exposure to 165 µW/cm² of ultraviolet-B (UV-B) light for 3600 seconds = 1 hour, a extremely high, acute dose triggering stress responses and protective mechanisms. . The plant's photoreceptor protein, UVR8, senses the UV-B radiation. This triggers a signaling cascade that activates specific genes to protect the plant from damage. In response to the UV-B signal, the plant ramps up the biosynthesis of protective compounds like flavonoids, phenolic acids, and anthocyanins. These compounds absorb UV radiation and accumulate in the epidermal layers of leaves to shield inner photosynthetic tissues. The plant may increase leaf thickness or deposit more cuticular wax, creating a physical barrier to the radiation. The plant will produce more enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidants to neutralize the reactive oxygen species (ROS) produced by the UV-B radiation. The plant activates enzymes, including photolyases, to repair DNA damage caused by the UV-B. These repair mechanisms are critical for preventing permanent genetic mutations. While protective measures are activated, a high dose delivered over a short period can cause stress that overwhelms the plant's defenses. Photosynthesis is highly sensitive to UV-B. A high dose can inactivate Photosystem II (PSII), damage thylakoid membranes within the chloroplasts, and reduce chlorophyll content, which lowers the plant's overall photosynthetic capacity. Despite repair mechanisms, high UV-B doses can inflict persistent damage on the plant's DNA. One study found that acute, high-dose UV-B had a greater effect on genome stability than chronic, low-dose exposure. The overproduction of reactive oxygen species can cause oxidative stress, leading to the oxidation of lipids and proteins and disrupting cellular function.

Cruising. Kept the nutrients the same as last week as the plants are going a bit slower than advertised by crop king and Sonoma seeds. Looking like flowering will take ~10 weeks when all said and done. Minor amount of defoliation done. Will be the last time to make sure I don’t stunt these autos. And ONLY defoliating. No pruning as I’m too afraid it will stunt the plants. Lots of buds forming now. Plants looking great. Noticed that the sun shines through my windows for several hours and directly onto the plants so I have started opening up the tent everyday and letting the sun shine on them. Helping to ripen the lower buds and have them be less larfy when all said and done. This does cause the plants to drink water like no other so have had to up the volume on fertigations. I’ve been using a LUX meter to check and make sure top colas aren’t getting too much light. The thing works great! Well worth the purchase. My mothers on the other side of the tent are big so need less light and as a result I have been able to move two of their lights in close to the flowering autos. The additional light is definitely helping bulk up the plant. Currently over the two plants there is (as listed) an HLG 135w Rspec, an HLG 100 V2 3000k, an HLG 65 V2 4000k and a Mars Hydro TS600. Tons of light! I’m in isolation as 2 of my housemates got COVID. As a result, I have a LOT of time to spend babying these plants and it is paying off. See you next week!