Day 127. Chop day !!! Think two weeks would be perfect for them to finish up, but 17 autos waiting in veg/dry room and I go for holidays, nobody will invest time like me, so simple watering left for Auto grow without training, my friend will cover this easy task for me. Happy Growing !!!

Week 3 :)

Here we are. Week 2. On the Day 8 video, I give my method on how I produce nearly zero larf and huge buds. It's easier than most think 😉

The best plant I have grown so far. 64 grams for 3.7 liters (1 gallon). Drying for 8 days. Dead at 92 days of life, practically the rhythm of an automatic with powerful results. Flush in the last week, very light. Two separate times 4 days before harvest.

RAW GROW is a tested blend of all 12 RAW Soluble plant nutrients, essential elements and supplements. This blend has been proven to be an optimal all-in-one base “Grow” horticultural fertilizer. RAW GROW is used through out the entire vegetative stage. Derived from: Plant protein hydrolysate, mono potassium phosphate, potassium sulfate, cane molasses, sodium borate, copper sulfate, iron DTPA, magnesium sulfate, manganese sulfate, zinc sulfate and azomite. Also contains non-plant food ingredients: Humic acids derived from leonardite and peat, kelp (ascophyllum nodosum), silicon dioxide derived from diatomite and yucca extract. When you overlap a copper wire to attract ions, it is called ion exchange. Copper wire is often used as a material for ion exchange because it has a high affinity for positively charged ions, such as copper, zinc, and nickel. When copper wire is overlapped or wound into a coil, it creates a surface area that attracts ions and allows them to bind to the wire or gather within the space. This process is used in various applications, such as electroplating, water treatment, chemical separation processes and cultivation. Electrolysis is a chemical process that involves passing an electric current through a liquid or solution containing ions. This process causes the ions to migrate towards the electrodes, where they undergo a chemical reaction. In the context of plant growth, electrolysis is used to increase the availability of your nutrient-rich solution that can be used to feed plants. Electrolysis and nutrient rich reservoirs work well together since your cannabis nutrients are salt based. The process involves passing an electric current through a solution of water and plant nutrients, which causes the water molecules to break down into their constituent parts, hydrogen, and oxygen. The hydrogen ions (H+) then combine with the nutrients in the solution to form a nutrient-rich substance that can be absorbed by the plant roots easier. This will only work in a nutrient rich solution as it requires the salt-based nutrients to engage. This process, known as hydrolysis, provides the plant with a continuous supply of nutrients and oxygen, which can help to increase plant growth and improve yields. By providing the plant with a more efficient method of absorbing nutrients, electrolysis can help to increase the uptake of essential elements such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Additionally, electrolysis can help to maintain the pH balance of the growing medium, which is essential for optimal plant growth. One of the key advantages of using electrolysis to increase plant growth is that it allows for greater control over the growing system. This is exactly why this is generally a technique reserved for advanced hydroponics growers. By adjusting the voltage and current levels, cultivators can custom control the nutrient concentration and pH level of the solution, ensuring that the plant receives the optimal amount of nutrients sitting perfectly on potential hydrogen spectrum. Carotenoids absorb light in the blue-green range of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red range. Carotenoids protect photosynthetic machinery from excess light. They deactivate singlet oxygen, which is a harmful oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids quench triplet chlorophyll, which can be harmful to photosynthesis. Carotenoids scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS), which can damage cell membranes and proteins. Carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. Carotenoids provide precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones like abscisic acid (ABA) and strigolactones (SLs). Carotenoids are pigments that give fruits and vegetables their orange, red, and yellow colors. They also act as free radical scavengers to protect plants during photosynthesis. Beta-carotene is the most common provitamin A carotenoid. It's found in orange and yellow fruits and vegetables like carrots, sweet potatoes, and mangos. Other carotenoids include lycopene, lutein, and zeaxanthin. These carotenoids have antioxidant and photoprotective properties. In plants, Vitamin A is found as carotenoids, which are pigments that give plants their color. Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin. Vitamin B plays a vital role in plant growth and development. It acts as a coenzyme in many metabolic reactions, which are the basis for plant growth and maintenance. Vitamin B helps plants metabolize nutrients, which are essential for growth and development. Vitamin B helps plants respond to biotic and abiotic stress. Vitamin B can help plants grow new roots, which can reduce transplant shock. Vitamin B can help plants grow shoots, especially slow-growing plants. Vitamin B1 Also known as thiamine diphosphate, vitamin B1 is a key component of metabolic pathways like glycolysis and the tricarboxylic acid cycle. Vitamin B3 Also known as nicotinamide or niacin, vitamin B3 is a biostimulant that can improve plant growth and yield. Vitamin B6 Vitamin B6 acts as an antioxidant and cofactor, and is involved in plant stress responses. Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is a vital nutrient for plants that helps with growth and protects them from excess light. Vitamin C acts as a redox buffer, which is important for regulating photosynthesis. Vitamin C helps enzymes that regulate photosynthesis, hormone production, and regenerating antioxidants. Vitamin C is a coenzyme in the xanthophyll cycle, which converts excess energy into heat. This process helps plants protect themselves from too much light. seedlings to young plants can feed on 200-400 PPM, Teenage plants that have a maturing root zone can feed on 350-550 PPM and adults will feed 600-1000 PPM. The more you feed plants and watch them grow you'll get a feel for how much to give them. Less is more when trying to grasp this. High level of CEC in organic soil so I'm watering 5-gallon

11/9: I fed them today. Started tapering off the One. Stopped giving Beastie Bloomz and started them on Cha Ching, plus the normal doses of silica, signal, and sweet & sticky.

8/14 Everything looked beautiful this morning. Seems like I've got the watering schedule down better. I do have one gmo that looks hungry so I need to increase nutes. At least on that plant. Toasted toffy has little spits that could be water marks, pests or septoria. I don't think it's septoria. In the pastvi lost far more leaves when I had septoria. I've been crazy busy. I'm surprised things are going this well. I need to put up the final supports so I can add to them once I've got big heavy buds. I was really stoked to see everything doing so well. The plant in the 50gallon is the furthest in flower. I'm so grateful to have the ability to grow high quality cannabis for myself amd my wife. There's nothing quite like it. That hash I made turned out great. I think I'll press it today. Supports will be done this week. Saw a few aphids on the plant I cut down. Earwigs aren't here this summer or there would be NO aphids. Plus when I cleaned out the insides this morning I found some dead leaves WAY in the middle by the stalk. They would've eaten that shit if they were here. Birds and other predators seem to be keeping pillars at bay. I'm not seeing the damage and when I do sfind one it's absolutely tiny like a newborn. I'll think about whether I need to spray BT. 8/15 That fucking cancel button always fucks everything out. I was done no I need to start over. Didn't water last night. Found pm on my gmo in the 30. Interior of the plant. Should've defoliated better and earlier. Oh well. I'll treat with k bicarb or plant doctor. I'll have to think about it. Other plants are looking good. Well they all are. I just hate pm. I can't isolate it due to local laws so it is what it is. Nothing I haven't dealt with before. Watered today. The middle gmo in the 30 got 1.5 gallons. The other plants each got a gallon. Including the one in the 10gal and 50 gal. Its supposed to rain but only like .1. I also chose to feed today. All plants got a gallon. I DID NOT WATER THE EVENT HORIZON IN THE MIDDLE AND THE SHERB PIE AS THEY WERE PRAYING AND HEAVY. I need to get these supports up. I'll update as I go. Oh and one thing I remembered is that, I didn't properly sanitize the trellis nets I installed on the plant that has pm (non visible today but still). I harvested the plant that used that bet last year was harvested in two stages. The bottom I let go way later and ended up with a little pm on the stuff I left for hash material and it got some pm. I wonder if that's whete this came from. 8/16 Death in the family this morning. I couldn't decide if I should use organocide plant doctor or not. It's a systemic It's been discontinued and reformulated. It's a systemic fungicide. Instead I mixed two tsp potassium bicarbonate with a little dawn in a half gallon mister. I used gloves and defoliated everything that had pm on it. I checked the plants next to it and luckily it hasn't spread yet....but it will. I feel safer using the k bicarb. I'll do more research and try to find the best way to tackle this. I don't want to get rid of the plant and due to local ordinance I can't isolate it. If I can keep it to this one plantvthat would be fine. I'd just use it for extracts. So glad I didn't use all that netting and put up tjosr supports. I'll need to disinfect them if I decide to use them. We'll see. Plants are coming right along flowering. WENT BACK OVER AND DEFOLIATED A BUNCH OF fan leaves and interior stuff to promote airflow. Still saw pm on that plant u had treated earlier with k bicarb. I can't isolate due to laws and I'm not willing to discard this massive monster cropped plant. So I'm going to treat it. I started by removing everything infected and improving airflow on that plant and all the others. I didn't make it to one event horizon. I plan to treat the infected plant with Organocide Plant Doctor since its what I have on hand and I've had good luck. It's a systemic. After I treat the one plant and see that it didn't hurt the plant I'll use a preventative dosage on the other plants. I've battled wpm several times. This is something I'm very familiar with. What sucks is it's totally my fault it happened due to grower error. This has set back me puttingvup my supports as well. Plants look good woth a haircut. Also the toasted toffy had some leaves removed with spots that looked like septoria. I think nutes havecreally kicked things in gear. Now there are little buds on plants. 8/17 BAGS still seemed heavy so I didn't water. It's been MUCH cooler. It's 63 at 9am. It would normally be 80 by now so maybe they aren't using as much water. I watered the the toasted toffy I missed last round but the Sherb Pie still had weight to it. I also watered the GMO on the far side and the one in the 30 as the seemed a little lighter. I looked in and I couldn't find a SPOT of powder mildew on the plant! I know it will come back but on this 100% rh day there isn't a spot I can find! I'm going to go check on them later today. Do some more defoliation and treat the plants with Plant Doctor to try to mitigate the spread of the P.M. Very suprised the k bicarb worked like that. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 11. I WATERED THE TWO THAT DIDNT GET WATERED LAST TIME. THE EVENT HORIZON AND THE SHERB PIE. IT WAS COLD AND OVERCAST. TEMPS HAVE BEEN MUCH COOLER. SOON AS I WATERED THE SUN CAME OHT AND THE TEMP WENT UP. I WENT THROUGH THE PLANTS I MISSED AND SEFOLIATED LEAVES AND INTERIOR BRANCHES TO INCREASE AIRFLOW. SURPRISED TO STILL SEE NO PM WITH 100% HUMIDITY. I WENT THROUGH EVERY PLANT. ILL NEED TO GO TJROUGH AGAIN BUT TJIS IS MUCH BETTER. THE TOASTED TOFFY THAT MAY HAVE SEPTORIA I WILL TREAT TONOGHT WITH PLANT DOCTOR. I REMOVED ANYTHING LOOKING INFECTED. I LSTed THE BIGGEST BRANCHES WITH CLIPS TO THE BAG AMD TWINE. SO AIRFLOW IS MUCH BETTER. I THEN REMOVED A BU CH OF THE MIDDLE. I COULD TAKE MORE BUT ON OUTDOOR HARVESTS THAT LITTLE STUFF GOES IN EXTRACTS. I PUT A FEW HOURS IN TODAY. IM GOING BACK AND ILL TEST THE PLANT DOCTOR ON THE TOASTED TOFFY. BUT IF THE K BICARB WORKS THIS GOOD ILL JUST KEEP USING THAT. 8/18 It started sprinkling when I left this morning. I did more defoliation on a few different plants. Including the healthiest GMO. It seems like things should be further in flower but it is what it is. I'm not doing clones again. Only reason I did is because I lost my 72 seedlings and depleted my seed supply. I hate treating pm. Lost Coast Plant Therapy I'd really whete its at when it comes to treating pm. I might just order that. My commercial buddy told me that he wouldn't use the plant doctor and not to "spray shot all over my plants". He's probably right. I see something small and try to overcurrent. I dont see any more septoria looking leaves on the toasted toffy since I lsted it and removed damaged leaves. I was going to use the fungicide plant doctor on that and then use it ad a preventative. He's probably right. I've put a lot of work in defoliation and such. It WILL spread but it hasn't yet. I removed what I saw. I was going to hit it again with k bicarb but it said it should be weekly treatments.i hope I'm doing things right. I shouldn't be this worried about pm but I've got am anxiety disorder. I'll fully sterilize (AGAIN) my posts and trellis netting before I instal it. I'll probably go check on them later. It's hard to avoid pm with 100% humidity and 30° temp swings. I've got a few lights so maybe this winter I'll do indoor. I'll try to keep this updated. LOOKING BACK AT PRIOR DIARIES I GUESS IM RIGHT WHERE I SHOULD BE FLOWERING WISE. I JUST HAD A COUPLE REALLY EARLY PHENOS A COUPLE TIMES. 8/19 Defoliated some more stuff amd tried to improve airflow. Humidity is high and it was sprinkling earlier. I think we'll have showers. Not seeing much pm. MAYBE a little in the middle of that middle gmo but it could just be residue. I'll treat it again with potassium bicarbonate soon. If that doesn't work I'll switch up treatments. I've got citric acid amd some other stuff too. I almost ordered lost coast last night but decided I'd wait to try it out. The toasted toffy has SOME spots that look like septoria. It's the second furthest in flower and very indica leaning. It seems to be flowering vigorously so I don't want to fuck with it too much. I could use plant doctor on it and see what happens but I'm going to monitor for a few days after defoliating. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 4 AND SHOOK OFFCTHE PLANTS. HADNT RAINED MUCH. BAGS ARE STILL HEAVY. THE TEN WAS LIGHT AND THE EVENT HORIZON BESIDE IT SEEMED A LITTLE LGHT AS WELL. I THINK IT MIGHT BE ME COMPARING THEM TO OTHER PLANTS THAT ARE SATURATED. SEEING HOW THEY BOTH LOOKED THE BEST IVE EVER SEEN THEM I HELD OFF WATERING. ITS ALSO SPRINKL9NG AMD GOING TO RAIN TONIGHT. ILL REASSESS IN THE MORNING. PLANNED ON USING PLANT DOCTOR ON TOASTED TOFFY BUT DECIDED AGAINST IT PARTIALLY DUE TO THE RAIN. PARTIALLY BECAUSE I PUSSED OUT. I WANTED TO FEED. IVE NOTICED SOME FADE AND PLANTS PUSHING AND TRYING TO GET OVER THE FENXE INTO FLOWER. THE TOASTED TOFFY AND THE UNKNOWN IN THE 50 ATE THE FURTHEST ALONG AND DEVELOPING ROCK HARD BUDS. GMO HAS A MASSIVE STRETCH. THINGS CHANGE DAILY. I WANTED TO GET A GOOD DOSE OF NUTES IN SO AFTER THIS LITTLE BIT OF RAIN WHEN WE GET THAT NICE SUNSHINE MY PLANTS WILL TAKE OFF!! THEY'VE BEEN PROGRESSING FAST DESPITE THE SHITTY WEATHER. 8/20 It's still sprinkling. It SAYS WE got zero rain yesterday but that's just not true. Today is supposed to be light showers with like .02 in 9f rain. I mixed up some water to check the plants. I figured a few would he light. The event horizon on the back SEEMED a little light. So did the one invthe ten. I realized it was just comparing it to the bags that were saturated. Still I ended up giving the event horizon in the back a half gallon and split the other half with the one in the 10 that dries out super fast. It's crazy. The weather just abruptly changed one day and I go from watering twice a day to hardly at all! Everything but the sherb pie and the seedling in the 10gal are vigorously flowering. Upping the nutes was a smart move. The seemed to like it. I'm gonna check later and as soon as I can I'll hit that toasted toffy with plant doctor. That's tied for furthest along in flower. I've done a bunch of research and I think this is the right move. I'll keep this updated. After this small patch of shitty weather we are goingvto get some sun amd these girls will EXPLODE! WENT BACK OVER A FEW TIMES. LAST AT SIX. I DID SOME DEFOLIATION AND PRUNING OF PLANT INTERIORS. ITS ABOUT TIME TO TREAT THE TOASTED TOFFY AGAIN WITH PLANT DOCTOR. I CAN SEE SOME SEPTORIA SPOTS. I TREATED THE EVENT HORIZON THIS MORNING. IT GOT A FEW HOURS BEFORE A LITTPE RAIN WND THEN SUNNY AND 80. I USED BETWEEN A QUARTER AND HALF GALLON ON THE INE PLANT. I MAY NOT HAVE USED ENOUGH OF THE MIXED UP SOLUTION ONVTHE TOASTED TOFFY. IT HAD BEEN WORKING AWESOME AND NOW THAT ITS TIME TO REAPPLY I NOTICE A FEW LEAVES THAT LOOK INFECTED. OVER THE NEXT WEEK ILL BE MONITORING THE RESPONS FROM THE PLANT DOCTOR. I'M CONSIDERING APPLYING PLANT DOCTOR TO THE REST OF THE GARDEN. I THIBJ THE K BICARB HAS BEEN DOING GOOD KEEPING THE PM DOWN ON THE MIDDLE GMO. I HATE THAT I HAVE TO FIGHT DISEASES. IM NOT DOING CLONES AGAIN. AND IM GOING TO BE MUCH CLEANER. THE SHERB PIE LOOKS A LITTLE OVERWATERED AND HAS SOME YELLOW LEAVES BUT MANY HAVE TURNED PURPLE AND OTHER FALL COLORS. THE PLANTS ARE AGGRESSIVELY FLOWERING AND TEMPS ARE CHANGING. STILL IN EARLY FLOWER. IVE GOT A GOOD FEELING. IVE DEALT WITH MUCH WORSE AND CAME OUT GOOD.

Que pasa familia, vamos con la primera semana de vida de estas Tropicana Cookies Fast Flowering, de FastBuds. Agradezco a Agrobeta todos los kits obtenidos de ellos 🙏. Vamos al lío , las 3 semillas que germinaron con éxito se colocaron en macetas de 0.6 litros y asomaron las 3 El ph se controla en 6.2 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 21/24 grados y la humedad ronda el 60%. Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

02.06. the previous week I took to cutting back everything except 8-10 branches per plant. Each arm remains with sprouts at the top only (like lollipoping but with the leaves still on). I contemplated for a while before doing this an compared with last year's growth. Definitely want less little stuff in the lower region and a cleaner structure overall. TMV on the Quick Sherbet leaves looks contained. White clover growing along well, gave 1g / L of greenhouse feeding bio enhancer. This week is mostly cloudy and rainy so expect slower growth but good progress.

Gracias al equipo de Royal Queen Seeds, Marshydro, XpertNutrients y Trolmaster sin ellos esto no sería posible. 💐🍁Punch Pie: Un híbrido monstruoso con un 90% de dominancia índica, ocupa uno de los primeros puestos de la lista de favoritas de Kid Dynamite. La Punch Pie desciende de la Cherry Punch Pie de Tyson 2.0 y contiene la genética de dos índicas galardonadas: la Purple Punch y la Purple Kush. Punch Pie tu paladar se impregnará con ricas notas de pastel de frutos rojos, repostería caramelizada y tierra. Luego, pocos minutos después de la primera calada, sentirás todo el poder de este portento. La Punch Pie proporciona un combo 1-2 que se manifiesta justo en medio de los ojos y derrite todo el cuerpo, dejándote en un estado somnoliento, hambriento y apacible. Produce plantas compactas que alcanzan una altura de 80-110cm en interior y hasta 120-150cm en exterior. Tras 9 semanas de floración, esta señorita robusta crece con fuerza para soportar el peso de sus densas flores, y da cosechas de hasta 600g/m² en interior y 750g por planta en exterior bajo el sol. 💡TS-3000 + TS-1000: se usaran dos de las lámparas de la serie TS de Marshydro, para cubrir todas las necesidades de las plantas durante el ciclo de cultivo, uso las dos lámparas en floracion para llegar a toda la carpa de 1.50 x 1.50 x 1.80. https://marshydro.eu/products/mars-hydro-ts-3000-led-grow-light/ 🏠 : Marshydro 1.50 x 1.50 x 1.80, carpa 100% estanca con ventanas laterales para llegar a todos los lugares durante el grow https://marshydro.eu/products/diy-150x150x200cm-grow-tent-kit 🌬️💨 Marshydro 6inch + filtro carbon para evitar olores indeseables. https://marshydro.eu/products/ifresh-smart-6inch-filter-kits/ 💻 Trolmaster Tent-X TCS-1 como controlador de luz, optimiza tu cultivo con la última tecnología del mercado, desde donde puedes controlar todos los parametros. https://www.trolmaster.com/Products/Details/TCS- 🍣🍦🌴 Xpert Nutrients es una empresa especializada en la producción y comercialización de fertilizantes líquidos y tierras, que garantizan excelentes cosechas y un crecimiento activo para sus plantas durante todas las fases de cultivo. Consigue aqui tus Nutrientes: https://xpertnutrients.com/es/shop/ 📆 Semana 5: Comienzan a formarse los cogollos, las hojas se llenan de resina cada dia y el olor es bastante fuerte. Parece que ha terminado de estirar. Practico una defoliación intensa para airear los futuros cogollos y dejar mas espacio en el cuarto de cultivo. Agrupo de nuevo las macetas en su lugar optimo para asi rellenar por completo la carpa @marshydro. Me quedé algo corto de nutrientes pero estoy muy contento con los resultados, cada vez le voy encontrando mas su punto optimo. Siempre es mejor quedarse corto que pasarse.

Week 6ix behind All week been struggling to solve the “mystery of yellow top” And “the mystery of not flowering autos” Since both coco plants are not flowering in the same manner i ruled-out the possibility of them being genetically photos instead of autos. The possibility that i’d get 2 different strains to be with such a rare deviation is atomically small. For now have developed a plan and then decided to go a little sideways. First, reducing the EC to 1.3 stable instead of trying to push the plants to the limit. This means a little less that 1/2 of the recommended dosage by the producer. Second, going heavier on cal-mag Keep mimosa fed every day as she seems to devour everything and sit in a light pot. Another thought is iron deficiency but will see in due time if reducing EC and changing watering schedule doesnt help will go and find an iron supplement. And finally, if they dont flower i will switch them to 12/12 but this is last resort, i dont beleive they are photos. Thank you all for sharing your knowledge and beating your powerful minds with me to find a solution. Special thanks to @growinggrannie Stay tuned

Hi guys! I have grown strains from Zamnesia quite a lot time, but this one was the highest yielder from them. literally I have no words for this yield. The tent was 1 square meter and she was alone. Did not smoke a lot from them becouse I want to give a long cure, but what I have tried was amazing. I did the harvest in 2 parts. During the grow I had Mold attack becouse of the size of the buds and the humidity of the grow room. And the loss was almost 50g :(( First: 370g Second: 100g

Flowering is going amazing, this candy cane is growing some very fast weight and caking up with Trichome’s. The sweet and slightly minty berry smell is growing in power day by day, and I’m very happy with how the size of the buds are developing since adding the increase of 2-8-4 and fish bone meal, just a little bit, not too much at all and she’s reacting great, knowing that the candy cane is a larger auto in size makes me a bit sad with the total size of this plant, but in its young age as my very first auto I believe I probably stunted it, but after all this and how she looks now Im more than happy with the growth, yield and quality of it, just speaking now as I do not obviously know how much I Will revive from it, I’m guessing about a ounce. No small bud sites other than maybe one on a lower branch that already has a main top cola on it. The main cola is massive and packing on a lot of size. I’ve switched the light to a hour less now as I am growing 2 photo indica L.A grape and with the season change I am having to fix my temp and humidity more for the photos, so changing to a 17-7 schedule has actually helped quite a lot and also has helped my other autos veg slightly better. But all in all I’m very exited!

Plants came down at day 53. Nice weight and drying commenced. More purple coloring and smell is amazingly fruity

I'm in love with the structure on this sugar cane. She takes training easily and has developed a beautiful canopy of tops without much effort. It's almost like she just knows what I want her to do. Day 35 is here. We are a week into flower and most the plants are just starting to hit that flowering stretch. I have been bending them down a little every couple days, but I need to focus on cleaning up some of the bottom branches so we can keep good air flow through the plants. Will work on that through this next week. I haven't done a water change, just been topping off the reservoir with fresh nutrients as they drink it up. Feeding half and half maxigro and maxibloom. Will cut out the maxigro in a couple weeks when I notice their stretch slowing down. I had a plant overflow this week because the drain line is getting full of roots. I noticed a couple roots have made their way into the reservoir already. I set a pump timer to 1 minute on and 20 minutes off so they can drain properly. I would like to make it through the grow without having to mess with the drains, but we will see what happens. I will make some modifications if needed. Other than that everything is running smooth and I hope we have some little pistils to show by next week. Thanks for stopping by ✌️

2 more weeks...

Going strong!!

hace tiempo tenia ganas de cultivar esta cepa, de buen crecimiento y aroma dulce. muy buena produccion de cogollos y resina, resistio muy bien algunos problemas al inicio del cultivo en la poda apical y posterior LST, buena cepa para LST muy frondosa