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@dwotTV
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Starting my first grow in the new tent with my first Night Owl seeds. Grabbed these from seedslocker a few months ago and they've been sitting in my seed vault in the fridge since. Popped them in a glass of water at 8pm on 10/18. Broke out the AC Infinity propagation system and added a bit of RO water to some coco pucks. About 24 hours later they sunk in the glass and had opened up a bit with root peaking out, so into the pucks they went on the evening of 10/19. No real movement on 10/20, turned the heat pad off because they were a little warm. Morning of 10/21 the first Compound V was starting to pop through the soil, 2nd one followed a couple hours after and before noon all 3 were making their way out. Opened vents on the dome to let them breathe a bit more. 10/22 continuing to grow really strongly, looking good. 10/23 some roots out the bottom, time to go into the tent. Transplanted and seem happy, dialing in the temp and humidity and airflow, some odd higher temp days still around this time of year with some heavy fluctuations but it will normalize out. The tent has been stood up and cooking a bit w/ the lights blazing and a dehumidifier running to dry out our soil a bit. Had issues with fungus gnats last grow and I'm trying to prevent that this time. Ordered some beneficial nematodes as a line of defense and sprayed soil with a good soak of neem oil as a precaution after drying out. Sticky traps show no gnats so far. Soil is Coast Of Maine Stonington Blend Aeration Formula, a 70 / 30 Coco / Perlite blend that I've used before. I have Coast of Maine dry nutrients and Fox Farm liquid nutrients, will likely try to stick to the dry nutrients unless fungus gnats emerge again. Soil is in 5 gallon fabric pots. I added 2/3 cup of Stonington Blend Plant Food and 1/3 cup of Wiscasset Blend Earthworm Castings to each pot along with some Mycorrhizal Fungi spores and worked it in. I have been using the AC Infinity self watering bases but as I'm running 6 total plants this grow I've ordered the new Vivosun self watering bases to compare them.
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Heatwave Tested, Veggie Blessed ☀️🌱 Rolling into Week 3 of veg, and this little mystery girl is looking absolutely beautiful. Compact, vibrant, and showing all the right signs of healthy growth. 💚🌿 This week brought the heat—literally. We hit over 40°C in direct sun, and although she definitely felt it, she powered through like a champ. No major signs of stress, just a little sun-kissed and stronger for it. 💪🔥 I gave her a solid dose of effective microorganisms a couple days before feeding with BioBizz Grow, and she’s been loving it. The green is deep and rich, and her structure is nice and tight. She’s holding up strong, bouncing back from the heat, and I’m super excited to see her take off in the coming week. Something tells me she’s got big plans… 🚀🌼
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@Erik99
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Muy contento en esta tercera semana de flora, se le hizo la ultima limpieza de bajos y un poco de defoliación. Ya se pueden apreciar perfectamente las preflores y sus distintas coloraciones, ya que al ser de semilla aunque todas sean la misma variedad cada planta muestra sus fenotipos dominantes.
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@Hempcules
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WEEK 8 In this week, the plant has grown enormously again. It has gained 20 cm in height and is becoming bushier and fatter. 🙂 Due to the massive number of shoots, I already had to cut out quite a lot. It has kept its beautifully even canopy. Right now, it’s a true beauty. The stem is now almost 2 cm thick, which indicates excellent root development. Starting next week, it will also get a better spot under a larger lamp in my number‑one tent. I can still only say that I am absolutely thrilled with this Genetics. However, there is at least one other phenotype that flowers earlier and doesn’t grow quite as bushy, but instead taller. That one is also excellent. I hope the flowering phase will be just as good as everything so far. If so, this will be a fantastic result. 💚 PPFD: 750µmol/m²/s Water: 2x water 1x nutrient solution Vpd: 1,4Kpa
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*Week 4 Flowering 09/17* Blimburn - Apple Fritter (1) - 47 Inches Seedsman - Crititcal +2.0 (1) - 47 Inches Thus far no issues or concerns - Both plants are growing accordingly and are growing vigorously, Bud-sites are coming in heavy. Still growing in length. *Week 4 Flowering End of Week 09/23* Both Apple Fritter/Critical+2.0 have appeared to stop growing in length but have expanded in width in regards to the bud site development. Bud sites are blooming accordingly and trichome development seems to be coming along nicely as well. Nute feeds have remained the same/Plain water feeds have increased. *BACK TENT VIDEO ADDED - Apple Fritter (L) - Critical+2.0 (R) - 09/23*
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@camo420
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NEW BOX: 130x60x120 DIY: storage shelf, solid sheet metal ELECTRO ################################ thermometer top thermometer bottom hydrometer wlan ip cam (+ir filter) ---------------------------------------------------------------- input: x2 USB PC fan exhaust: x2 USB PC fan circulation: x2 USB fan ---------------------------------------------------------------- led panel 1: 300W ASUNDOM LED (Veg/Bloom/Full) led panel 2: 300W XHGrow Reflector-Series LED (Full) ---------------------------------------------------------------- studio light 1 (vegetation): 36W TaoTronics LED Gold studio light 1 (vegetation): 50W Balai LED full studio light 2 (vegetation): 8W VINGO LED blue ligh studio light 2 (vegetation): 50W Balai LED full ---------------------------------------------------------------- studio light 1 (bloom): 36W TaoTronics LED Green studio light 1 (bloom): 36W TaoTronics LED Gold studio light 1 (bloom): 50W JADIDIS LED IR full studio light 2 (bloom): 36W TaoTronics LED Green studio light 2 (bloom): 36W TaoTronics LED Green studio light 2 (bloom): 36W KINGBO LED Deep red 660nm 3x PLANTS ############################### FastBuds Girl Scout Cookies pots: 14L soil: plagron grow mix
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@terpamine
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Very happy overall with this week. Banana Daddy R1 transitioning to veg very quickly! Banana Daddy looking very healthy!
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Eai comunidade GD, sejam todos bem vindos a mais uma semana dessa bela menina. Essa semana tive alguns problemas com falta de nutrientes, as folhas deram uma amarelada, agora corrigi na rega e acredito que daqui uns 3 dias já teremos a melhora. Os botões estão crescendo bastante e o cheiro está incrível, não vejo a hora de experimentar essa maravilha!!!🍌✅
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Welcome Back!💚 Nach der ersten Blütewoche sieht man bisher kaum etwas an Blüten/Stigmenansätzen. Sie ist bisher echt der krasseste LowGainer, den ich seit ich Growe gesehen hab. Bisher muss ich leider sagen dass mich die Genetik hier etwas irritiert. Mal schauen ob die Pflanze in der Blüte noch was reißt 😁 🙈 Die Umgebungsgegebenheiten sind top: ————— 🌞 Temp: 23°C 🌚 Temp: 18°C bis 19°C 💨 RH: 51% VPD: 1,05 kPa 😎 PPfD: 630 mqm ————— Viele Grüße 👋
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Well this week I’ve tried lollipop on my main plants also removed a lot of fan leaves that we’re stopping air circulation also light reaching down to growing flowers beneath! Introduced canna flores and more cal mag to my feed! Also introduced another led light and turned up ballast light upto 400w keeping temperature at 26 when lights go out also it’s hitting temperatures of 28! When lights are on! Is this is an issue as I’ve removed my humidifiers! As been getting good readings without using a humidifier in a good few weeks now! They seem to be looking good! But still having to do research as would love to create some big colas!!! Second week into flowering now!
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@BioBuds
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At the beginning of this week, I have been fighting the gnats, which are less and less now. Just some watering and gradually lowering the light and going to full power. The Orange Hill Special has been filling out great and I must say, she is a pretty plant. With some manual bending and super cropping, I'm bending the longer stalks sideways and we are off. What I actually do is more of an intuitive hybrid between mainlining (where I bend the whole plant 90 degrees at the third week), LST (where I bend branches outward slightly, without tying), HST / Super crop (where I bend the stems 90 degrees with the clips or manually), after which I keep bending outward to SOG and, put the net over to end in SCROG. This same method gave me the canopy in my prize-winning Gelato 33 grow. Check it out if you haven't seen it, it was my first experimental accident that led to beta test of Super Soil mixture 0.7, now we are at Alpha version 1.00 and testing great so far if I say so myself. I haven't seen such lush greens in my own grows, only outdoor. They seem uber-healthy and resilient, with very sturdy stems and leaves. Way more resilient than previous strains I tested in the beta soil. The light is performing, the natural color of it makes everything pop. Mars Hydro has a winner with the SP-3000. Check out their site: www.mars-hydro.com Thank you @MarsHydroLED for letting me test it, hook them up for a great deal or info on their products! Halfway through this week, I took the clips out, AND...... we switched them to go into flowering. After a day the stretch is already visible. I had to bend them again after a couple of days. Now we have almost a tent filling foundation for a maximum result canopy of buds. I was wanting to amend the soil with flowering additions (see recipe in yellow image), but I'm holding it off for two reasons. A/ The leaves are still so green and lush, I think there is an abundance of nutes. B/ @Haoss mentions his suspicions on his OHS grow (@#CannapediaProGrowersCup Orange Hill that very sadly went hermie on him) that nutrition in this phase could have had an influence, after asking what happened to him. I would have loved to see that grow to full harvest. But it makes me a bit cautious. if Haoss (whom I consider to be one of the star growers here) couldn't prevent this, what chance have I? I'm waiting until the girls start asking for nutrients. They'll show me what they need in their own time. For now this soil is the shizzle (also quite literally) and Im happy with how everything is going. I remember much more hassle and steering in the last grow. This grow, even the Gorilla runt seems happy. I now water them 3 liters of water / Perma tea mixture every 4 days, every 3rd watering I don't do the tea. This makes for fewer gnats and this soil seems to hold water nicely, also due to the hydro corn. What I like is there is always some unforeseen circumstance, a tilt of the tables, some battle to be fought which delivers in big harvests or, in worst case, no harvest at all. It makes it more exciting, when your heart is at stake, we pour a lot of love and attention in the ladies. So with hopes, but not too high, we go into flowering. Thank you all for joining me again in this Orange adventure! I hope you all had great weeks, germed seeds, extreme growth and buds bursting with trichomes!! See you next week! Hug Bud PS Sunshine made her first appearance, as she promised on the Gelato 33 grow. She is still a bit camera shy, so her digital alter makes an appearance first, if you all want to see more of her and my other helpers, let me know in the comments. Sunshine will make a real appearance if yall are real nice to her.
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High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.
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@Budhunter
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As I did the flushing in day 68 I was watching the trichomes and on day 87 I could see 25-35% amber so I decided to cut it. I cut the whole plant on the base and hang them all to dry. For this reason I will update my findings later when it gets dry and trimmed. So far really happy with the results. It won’t yield much but the quality is impressive
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On week 6, thought they were coming up to harvest but still keeps popping pistels.. probably another few weeks till they are finally done