Beautiful , hope there is not much seeds. I used some crop steering this round for the first time. I will refine it in the next round. I've tried a advanced nutrients sensi bloom professional in powder. Part A do not dissolve fully. I've had sediment shooting on tank for week and not dissolve. Also when I tried to make some stock solution. There was a lot of white powder on the bottom of the bottle after many days. Even though I've shaked the bottle every day. I think it's unacceptable in this day and age to sell something like this.

Le ragazze 🌱sono entrate in fioritura.🌻..ho fatto una defoliazione per permettere un po di areazione visto che gli internodi sono molto ravvicinati...ora aspettiamo che le ragazze iniziano ad allungare...fatto anche un cambio completo della soluzione nutrienti e aggiunti rurro il necessario per una buona fioritura...

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Day 35 and she is a beauty. She has a nice color and I love her structure. I am going to call it flower this week since she is well into preflower. The system is running great. Haven't had any roots try to grow into the pipe yet. Going to start them on a little maxibloom soon.

Harvest time

✌️🎃 Thank you for checking my cultivation. 😍 The fatter of all in growbox! 😬 I burned some leafs because of feeding, but she’s beautiful yet. 💧 Watering with Ripen for start roots wash.

All went steady! Re-Adjusted my Fan positions & velocity! Full 900W running again - Lights were moved further from canopy to decrease leaf temperature. I pruned some affected leaf tips/fingers Pest & Mould prevention H2o2 Lets hope for the best

Week 6 - Bolt II - Lemon Jeffrey (FEM) Lemon Jeffrey by IRIE Genetics (6 Starts for 2 Finishers) 63-70 Days Flower (9 - 10 Weeks) Seeds Wet: Monday 14 May 2023 Harvest Date Range: [ 2023-06-30, 2024-07-07] Weeks Observations After flip, #7’s Meristem switched to Alternate Nodes instead of the symmetric typical of Meristems. It also is a 9 leaflet plant. (One of 3) End of week struggling with humidity, can’t bring below t68-69% with medium high inline fan. De-foliated bottoms again, super cropped Overly tall plants (4) to lower canopy, raised light to HIGHEST DISTANCE at 100% - ~680 PPFD across canopy. Will have to remove some lower growth tips that don’t reach with 2” of canopy. Start of week: - Dates: [2023-06-26: LJ2Q 43:B:2:1, 07–02-2023-07-02: LJ2Q 49:B:2:7 ] End of Week: - Plant Height Range: [ 13, 26, in] - Water/Day/Plant: [420, ml] EnvironmentalCurrent: - LightIntensity: [ 811, µMol//m2/s ] - LightDistance: [ 19.5, in] - TempAvg: [79.1 , °F] - RH: [ 70, %] - VPD: [ 0.75, kPa] - Scotoperiod: [ 12, hrs] - Feedwater per Day: [ 3360, ml] - EC: [ 1.8, mS] Environment NOTES: - Because room temperature overnight is 68°F, we need to 1. Nightly (2200) CLOSE AC VENT to Grow Room 2. Daily (0700) OPEN Vent to Grow Room - Goal is to maintain TENT & CABINET TEMPERATURES OVERNIGHT - RULE - CLOSE Room Airflow during LOW TEMP periods(2200 - 0700) - OPEN during HIGH TEMP Period (0700 - 2200) SOG Strategy - Eliminate weak, funky plants - @18” Height @ Flip to 12/12 (or …?) - Target Minimal DLI: 40 Mol/day (Optimal w/out CO2 Supplementation) - Ref: https://hortamericas.com/blog/science/mastering-light-management-optimizing-crop-performance/' Objective - 8 Plants, Single Colas, Sea of Green SOP: - WEAR CLEAN GLOVES FOR ALL SEED OPERATIONS - CLEAN All Instruments before use - Light Strengthveg := 100 + (#nodes * 100) - Light Strengthflower := [ 1000, 600, µMol/m2/s] - Scotoperiodveg := [ 1300, 1900, 6, hr] - Scotoperiodflower := [ 0700-1900, 12, hr] Environment - Bolt (3 Weeks) (Week 5-7) (F1-F3) # Last Week of Bolt! - Temp: 78-82°F - VPD: 1.0 ± 0.1 - Photoperiod: 12/12 - Light Strength: 930 µMol/m2/s - Rooted Leaf Hydro (Reservoir), (RLA EC 0.8 - 1.6 - Half the RLA Hydro Chart) - Primer A, Primer B: [ 8 ml, gal] - Silica Skin: [ 4, ml, gal] - EC: 1.1 - 2.2 # 1.1, 1.4, 1.7 - Mid Flower (2 Weeks) (Week 8-9) (F4-F5) - Temp: 78-82°F - VPD: 1.2 ± 0.1 - Photoperiod: 12/12 - Light Strength: 930 µMol/m2/s - EC: 1.7 - Late Flower (Week 10-14) (F5-F9) - Temp: 78-80°F - VPD: 1.2 ± 0.2 - Photoperiod: 12/123 - Light Strength: [930, 850, µMol/m2/s] - EC: 1.7 # Week 9-11 - EC: 1.4 # Week 12 - EC: 1.1 # Week 13 - Finish (Week 14) ( F10) - Temp: 78°F - VPD: 1.3 ± 0.2 - PPFD: 750 peak - Resin Bloom ONLY - EC: 0.8 Rooted Leaf Hydro 1.7 - 2.0 EC (Half RLA,Hydro Chart, EC to Targets): - Primer A: [ 8, ml, gal] - Primer B: [ 8, ml, gal] - Silica Skin: [ 4, ml, gal] - SLF-100: [ 5, ml, gal] - PhotosynthesisPlus: [ 6, ml, gal] ____________________ Mon 26 Jun 2023 # Bolt 2 LJ2Q 43:B:2:1 - Canopy Grew 1.5”, Raising Light to Maintain Intensity - Are we ready to raise EC to a Max ~ 2.0 mS? NO! Not Yet (If ever) - We’re going through 4 Gallons in 3 Days - [x] Refill w/ 6 Gallons Rooted Leaf Hydro Feed - [x] Add 6 Gallons Filtered H2O to Reservoir - [x] Add - [x] Primer A: [ 48, ml, 6, gal] - [x] Primer B: [ 48, ml, 6, gal] - [x] Silica Skin: [ 24, ml, 6, gal - [x] EC to 1.7 mS (1.8 MAX) - [x] Mix 1 Gallon of FULL Flower Week 2 Nutes, EC: 1.2 @ Lights On @ 300 ml/plant: 2.4 Liters - Primer A: [ 6, ml, gal] - Primer B: [ 6, ml, gal] - Silica Skin: [ 3, ml, gal] - Calmag Fuel: [ 3, ml, gal] - Lush Green: [ 3, ml, gal] - Root Anchor: [ 3, ml, gal] - Peak Bloom: [ 3, ml, gal] - [x] @2300: Enable normal HYRDO Chart Feed @ EC 1.8, @ 67 ml/plant per 90 Minutes Take Two Cuttings per Plant  - [x] Prep Clone Dome - [x] Clean, Rinse, Dry Clone Procedure - [x] Cut 1” below desired node, - [x] Immediately dip in Aloe Gel AND place tip in Rooting Plug - [x] Apply Tag to Cutting - [x] Create TAG for EACH Cutting - [x] Load Rooting Tray with Pre-Soaked (Filtered H20, Fulvic Acids [Ful-Power) Rooting Plugs (FloraFlex 40/40) - NEXT! - [ ] Take Cuts - [ ] #5b - [x] #1a - [x] #1b - [x] #5a - [x] #6a - [x] #6b - [x] #7a - [x] #7b - [x] #8a - [x] #8b - [x] #10a - [x] #10b - [x] #11a - [x] #11b - [x] #13a - [x] #13b - [x] For 3 Weeks, monitor Humidity, Start with Vent’s CLOSED! Tue 27 Jun 2023 LJ2Q 44:B:2:2  - Canopy Grew 1.5”, Raising Light to Maintain Intensity PEAK Tent PPFD: [ 829, µMol/m2/s]  Peak DLI: [ 35.8, Mol/m2/s]  Center PPFD: [ 709, µMol/m2/s]  Center DLI: [ 30.6, Mol/m2/s]  Wed 28 Jun 2023 LJ2Q 45:B:2:3 Thu 29 Jun 2023 LJ2Q 46:B:2:4 - Tallest Grew ~ 2-1/4” ‘Overnight’ - Raised lamp to maintain minimum 19.5” Distance Friday 30 Jun 2023 LJ2Q 47:B:2:5 Sat 01 Jul 2023 LJ2Q 48:B:2:6 Sun 02 Jul 2023 LJ2Q 49:B:2:7 - Added 5-1/2” overnight - first ‘real’ pistils apparent. - Can’t survive another week of 2-1/2 to 5 1/2 “ a day :-) - I can’t get RH below 72, night or day. Need to defol lowers again, and remove sure ti be larf lowers.

Hello everyone 😎 Week 5 of flower for the RuntzZz🌸 Love the smell super fruity & creamy🤤 For the nutrient it’s time for Green Sensation 1ml/L🚀 just a coincidence for the Runtz X Green Sensation😝

Girls are going into preflower, gaining a lot of height. Working on my IPM outside. So far so good. They hate the 100+ heat but they recover each night.

25 April 2021 Feeding schedule apparently needs to be adjusted. I initially watered the plant every 3-4 days, then as the plant grew it needed more as it dried out faster, or used water faster (however you choose to look at it). I started feeding every 2 days, but now it seems like it was dry again just 24 hours later. My wife pointed out that it looked dry, and it was, so right at the point the lights were to go out for the night, I decided to feed it again instead of waiting till tomorrow. Today starts week 4 of flower, so I adjusted the nutrients for the new week. Only a minor adjustment, but still an adjustment. I gave CALiMAGic 5ml, FloraMicro 7.5ml, FloraGro 2.5ml, and FloraBloom 12.5ml added to a gallon of water. Initial pH was 5.79. I added pH UP 2.5ml in two 1ml increments and then a .5ml addition which raised the pH to 6.42. That’s what I fed the plant, and the runoff pH was 5.79. As the lights went off during the feeding, I took the opportunity to take some pics in the dark using a flash to see how it looks without the strong LED’s overhead. I’m still trying to decide if I should trim away all of the smaller branches and leaves under the main canopy above the cargo net I have installed. I may ask the community for advice on this issue. I’m just unsure if the toll it will take on a plant at this stage of growth. 27 April 2021 The plant wasn’t all that dry yesterday, so I decided not to feed it until today. I’m seeing some funny orangish/rusty colored streaks on some of the leaves, but the rest of the leaves look fine. I’ve also found some more leaves with small holes or bite marks on them. I mainly see them on the smaller leaves, and not so much on the larger ones. The smaller buds under the cargo net that I was thinking about cutting off are fattening up like the rest of them above the cargo net. Not all of them, but a lot. I may still defoliate some of them, but I will probably keep any that look like they’ll fully mature. As far as nutrients go, I’m still following the feed chart from the other day. So; I gave CALiMAGic 5ml, FloraMicro 7.5ml, FloraGro 2.5ml, and FloraBloom 12.5ml. The initial pH was 5.86, and I added pH UP 2.5ml which elevated the pH to 6.45 which is what I gave the plant. The runoff water pH was 5.82. Temperature was 81 degrees, and relative humidity was 41. I’m going to try and only update my grow diary at the end of the week and add the weekly totals to the log to see if that makes more sense, or if I should keep doing it like I was before. Previously I edited the week after each feeding, so the totals on the log only show the nutrients and water amount for a single feeding, and doesn’t show an aggregate amount for the whole week. Since there are no instructions on the website I figured that I’d try it that way this week instead of how I was doing it. We’ll see what works best and go from there. 29 April 2021 I should have fed yesterday, but got busy and by the time I saw that it could be fed, it was time for lights out. I didn’t want to do that again, so I just waited till today. I also decided to cut off a couple of the smaller and uglier branches that didn’t have a lot of promise so that nutrients and water could be used elsewhere. The sugar leaves are getting sugary a little more each day. It’s like the leaves are frosted and it’s a lovely development. Seeing how all of the coated leaves have appeared this week, I feel it necessary to make a mental (as well as written) note about when to expect that in future grows. Today, as with the previous feedings this week, I added the following: CALiMAGic 5ml, FloraMicro 7.5ml, FloraGro 2.5ml, and FloraBloom 12.5ml. Initial pH was: 5.88. I added pH UP: 3ml, which adjusted the pH to 6.56. That is what I fed the plant today. I was thinking about something completely unrelated after I drained the runoff water/nutrients and poured it out before checking the runoff pH. My bad. The plant is looking great for the most part. Some tiny bite marks on a leaf here and there, but still no sign of what’s doing it. Also, some leaves have some weird rusty, orange looking lines on them, but just a few. So far so good though and I’m happy with its progress. 30 April 2021 Watering/feeding the plant again today because we’re going out of town for the weekend. I’m hoping to come back Sunday morning in order to feed again before 8pm when the lights go out. Today is the last feeding for this week, so I’ve been planning to input my data differently this week to see how it goes. Previously I’ve been adding all of the information after each feeding, so each new feed was overwritten by the previous feeding in the same week. This week I’m going to try and input all of the data for all of the feedings into a single entry to encompass the whole week as a whole. We’ll see how it goes.

Buenas a tod@s.... Bueno, sexta semana de esta lemon cookie kush, la variedad para mí gusto en lo q va de tiempo para mí va muy bien, va tomando forma interesante entre aromas y evolución de la misma, ahora q ya le queda poco vamos a ver q tal va, de momento sigo con ka misma temperatura, intentado bajar la humedad a un punto y ahi intentar mantener, la temperatura igual... 3 semanas más de floración, vamos a ver q tal siguen, para mí gusto, van de lujo... Una joya! 💎👌🏻 Buen finde para tod@s y buenos humos... 🇦🇷🤝🏻🇪🇦 💨💨😎😎

📅 23.04-21 (Flo day 57) 📜 trichome analysis: not ready to flush. ⚗️ 1.85 💦 6.2 🌊 40L 📏 cm 📅 24.04-21 (Flo day 58) 📜 removing 30l from the system, the plants drank 30l. 60l filling. EC dropped to 1.83 at 1:00 AM. Trichome analysis: not ready to flush. ⚗️ 1.88 💦 6.2 🌊 30L 📏 cm 📅 25.04-21 (Flo day 59) 📜 trichome analysis: not ready to wash. Plants have drunk 40l at 8:00 PM 50l at 11:00 PM ⚗️ 1.77 💦 6.2 🌊 50L 📏 cm 📅 26.04-21 (Flo day 60) 📜 Set Ph 6.1 to the Ph Controller. ⚗️ 1.79 💦 6.18 🌊 30L 📏 cm 📅 27.04-21 (Flo day 61) 📜 Trichome analysis: Not ready yet. ⚗️ 1.80 💦 6.10 🌊 45L 📏 cm 📅 28.04-21 (Flo day 62) 📜 drained 50 liter from the RDWC system. Objective EC 1.60. Add 175ml total care ⚗️ 1.78 💦 6.10 🌊 35L 📏 cm 📅 29.04-21 (Flo day 63) 📜 -------------------- Nothing to say ⚗️ 1.67 💦 6.10 🌊 40L 📏 cm _____________________________________________________ 📅 Day - 📜 Note - ⚗️ EC -💦 PH -🌊 Water -📏 Height Equipment: Idrolab 12 bucks Chiller teco Hy500 weather controler with Co2 : PRO-LEAF BECC-B2 Bavagreen 720w Bavagreen 720w Bavagreen 240w Bavagreen 240w Nutrients and PH controller: PRO-LEAF PHEC-B2 Nutrients: Green House feeding - powder feeding hybrids | Powder feeding boost Extractor: primaklima PK250-1 PK250-L1 x2 System and roots care: Idrolab Total care

One more week of flush, the leaves are starting become yellow. The buds are getting fatter and frosty. Check out the video that i v made. One more thing fellas, i'v put two graphics showing an experience that i'v made measuring the ph and ec of runoff for some weeks: 1 - About PH: my soil always buffer about 1 pt of ph. Except in the day 08/08 that i made a full flush. 2 - About the EC: You can see in the start of the graphic some peaks. This is beacuse i was alternating between solution and tap water. After that i started aways put the solution in every watering and the graphic become more estable following the concentration of ec until the flush in 08/08. I dont know exactly why this buffer of ph and ec occurs. I think that it was because i'm recycling the soil over the grows. :] Next week, HARVESTTTT!

summer summer summertime. yes, summer has finally arrived in germany. the fat whale is happy and goes into full bloom. it's already starting to smell. my LST training only serves to get the side shoots into the sun, which they gratefully accept. she has really stepped on the gas in the last week. she is healthy and strong.

These are the seeds from my auto breeding project earlier this year. That diary link can be found here: https://growdiaries.com/diaries/129779-grow-journal-by-m0use Germinated by scarification of the seed with an emery board then soaking in water for 12hrs, I added in the step of paper towel for another 12hrs then planted outside with Dynomyco in the hole. Watered in with some LABS "Lactic Acid Bacteria Serum [Lactobacillus]" and Transplanter MS-CS RootRescue. They all popped up within a few days after planting outside. They are in a heavy soil and should not need much love outside of a fertilization every month. I ran out of mesh to protect them so bamboo spikes will keep the birds at bay... hopefully. I also have a twin setup of these seeds but in a bucket fortified with acti-sol, they will be running side by side for comparison.