Week 2 of flower, RO water change with an EC of 1.3. Will adjust from here and observe the next day or two. Although you watched as I did a major defoliation, as you can see, they have bounced back pretty quickly. As of now, I will be defoliating every few days just to keep the light penetrating the canopy so we have some nice buds come harvest time. Will be back to update in a few days to update where they are at and if they need more nutrients. pH is set and stable. Stay tuned until the next update and follow my YouTube and Instagram (Link on growdiaries profile)

Well not bad without any care they still end up nice but foxtail ..

Started her outdoor in a 1.5 l pot, had great weather with alot of sun, but in about 1-2 weeks in bloom the weather changed and the temp droped to about 5 celcius by night, so se slowed down in growth, took her indoor under a budget 150 w led light and after a few weeks she started to fatten up and eat alot again, shes a real gulper of nutes, A plessure to grow! The smell is amazing! Very strong genetics! This strain has potntional to yield enormous in a bigger pot and better light. Amazing work by @Fast_Buds A very very potent smoke! Perfectly balanced hybrid, love it! Starts in the head and lift you up and get you giggly then slowly gets down you're whole body and get you very relaxed

Hello friends! day 60! following your advice I applied the cropping in order to bring the tops back into the light and I wanted to try adding ADV nutes to integrate a little! apart from this extreme elongation everything seems to be going the right way! thank you very much for stopping by, leave a like and some advice! happy day and great growth 🌱💚

Buenos buenos días a todos, ya estamos de nuevo aquí para comentar una semana más como van nuestras plantas. 🍁🏻 Esta semana hemos visto una mejoría notable en cuanto a las anteriores semanas y eso nos pone felices. Tras pasar un par de semanas administrando de nuevo los nutrientes que ya conocíamos , nos hemos dado cuenta de que estos son los que realmente nos funcionan ya sea por conocimiento o por seguridad nuestra de lo conocido, aún así seguimos pendientes de lo que nos quieren decir las plantas con sus diferentes signos Los riegos por el momento son como la semana pasada 350 por planta y más o menos se riegan cada 3 días una con nutriente y la otra solo con agua, ambas dos equilibradas de PH al 6.0 como hemos hecho siempre. Estamos contentos de poder seguir con nuestro cultivo aún que hemos sufrido algún inconveniente siempre seguimos activos y con ganas de aprender y mejorar. Muchas gracias a todos por su atención , estamos contentos de pertenecer esta comunidad tan amable y llena de aprendizaje Buenos humos a todos y nos vemos la próxima semana 💨🌱💀

Here we are at the end of the 8th week of flowering. I'm undecided whether to harvest on day 63 as directed or give them another week. 🤔 In the last photos, there's a shot of the trichomes, where you can already see a good amount of amber. Let me know what you think, mates.

Day72, the pistils are getting brown and some trichoma starts to have amber color 😋 a more watering with nutrients and osmosis water until the end. Size 67 cm👏🏻👏🏻 temperature 24º C ☀️, humidity 60% 💧 watering 750 ml 💦💦 Session 45 min. of binaural sounds for growth and healing 🎼 and music 😉👍

Zkittlez is looking like she's on a hurry, already shooting some brown hairs and only passed 28 days since the flip.

to mutch cold here 2 week with low temps at night cicle betwen 12 &16 graus in europe. maybe this is the reason of that purple orange colors (:

finally they are in flower! Yay final foliar spray applied. They are still smelling like chocolate and peanut butter. Did not get 1 drop of rain this week. It is getting so frustrating plants are 1/4 what they should be this year.

Not starting yet! Will place in paper towel on Dec 30th and plant in soil on Jan 1 Good luck everyone!!!🏻💚 Revision— just placed a seed direct to soil today- Dec 30. Should germinate slightly after the 1st! Updated. Sprouted and ready to go!

Gorilla Jealousy F1 has fill in well over the last week. She got her roots pruned today. Along with some lst, and defoliation. She has been growing really well. I will likely move her into my small tent once the photoperiod in there now is done flowering in 3 weeks roughly. My plants have flowered really well in that tent, and environment. Nothing more to report at the moment. Thank you Spider Farmer, and Seedsman. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 https://www.seedsman.com/?a_aid=Mrsour420. This is my affiliate link to seedsman. Thank you Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Alright boy-o!!! let's flip the script and do some growing, put what I can out here and see what we get. One thing is for sure... Screw 12/12 from seed its not useful for me and I'm tired of the waste. Oh, and ApPAreNtLy if you don't prove grow skills as a new grower, people get butt hurt and it only goes downhill from there... so here we go this tents about to get full. Cheers! Thank you @marshydroeleen for the light and let's see what this light can do. That said, Let's talk set up. My 3x3 is powered by the MarsHydro TS1000 and is being cooled via air recirculation. This is achieved with my 4" ipower inline fan. Humidity isn't an issue for me by nature of climate. My tent temperatures are easily controlled simply by stopping air recirculation. It is dried out simply by restarting the fan. This is in pat due to running the driver external of the tent to provide a few degrees less in the tent. Humidity is increased by stoppage and this also increases the Temps very slightly until at about 78f. Now all of this would normally be a chore to keep track of, however my yardsale score ($80) included a Titan Controls Saturn 6 with the photocell addition makes this as easy as plugging it in. Now, if that score wasn't sweet enough it also included the co2 tank and valve to boot. This is currently set up and plumbed in the top of the tent. This won't be plugged in and operating until the first week of flower. Until then it's ready to go. I filled my sub irrigated 3.5gal planters with SUNSHINE company mix#4 with mycorrhizae and watered with 1/3gal of water from the tap. The transplant went smoothly and we will start watching this lady turn things back around. This will be a good show of what the strain has to offer. After a good thorough cleaning the tent is set and the ladies are in. There will be new ladies joining the tent in a few weeks but for now these ladies return to veg in peace. I hope to turn this nightmare of a run into a sponsorship worthy run. So cheers to the new challenge and let's get growing. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sponsors @marshydroeleen and the MarsHydro company for the TS1000. @expertseeds thank you for the new genetics can't wait to smoke!

Did not add any nutrients to the reservoir, only topped up the reservoir with water and adjusted PH/ORP, PH- adds P and ORP adjustment adds K. Turned on the Mars Hydro VG80 mid week. Internodal spacing is kinda big with some branches but overall OK, stretch seemed to have slowed down. Nothing else to report. Values are average of the day. DATE - °C - RH% (Tent Temp/RH) 20241111 23.1 61.5 20241112 22.6 60.9 20241113 22.7 62.6 20241114 24.0 64.3 20241115 23.5 61.6 20241116 23.4 61.3 20241117 22.9 63.7 DATE - PH 20241111 6.07 20241112 6.08 20241113 6.11 20241114 5.98 20241115 5.95 20241116 5.95 20241117 5.94 DATE - ORP (mV) 20241111 62 20241112 94 20241113 125 20241114 104 20241115 84 20241116 70 20241117 54 DATE - EC(us/cm) 20241111 2168 20241112 2167 20241113 2025 20241114 2051 20241115 1990 20241116 2020 20241117 2027 DATE - CF 20241111 21.68 20241112 21.67 20241113 20.25 20241114 20.51 20241115 19.90 20241116 20.20 20241117 20.27 DATE - °C (Reservoir) 20241111 21.7 20241112 21.9 20241113 21.7 20241114 22.3 20241115 22.0 20241116 22.0 20241117 21.5

Week 5 Update: Challenges and Optimism! 🌿💪✨ Hey there, fellow growers! 👋🌱 As we dive into the fifth week of this thrilling journey, I must admit that I've encountered a few obstacles along the way. But fear not, for challenges are merely opportunities in disguise! 🌱🚀 Currently, three of my plants are still looking a bit droopy, a consequence of my underfeeding mishap. 😔 However, I've taken decisive action to rectify the situation. I've increased their water intake from 0.5 liters each to a generous 1 liter each, provided every two days. Hydration is key! 💧💦 Let's talk environmental conditions. The temperature within the grow space ranges between 20°C and 22°C, maintaining a comfortable and optimal range for our leafy companions. The humidity levels hover around 60% to 68%, thanks to the diligent work of my trusty dehumidifier. Kudos to technology! 🌡️💨💨 In light of the recent droopiness, I've temporarily adjusted the LED power to 75%. It's a careful balancing act to ensure the plants receive the right amount of light without overwhelming them. We're all about finding that sweet spot! 💡🌿✨ Interestingly, I've noticed a similar issue with droopiness during my previous grow with sour stompers. Could it be a recurring pattern? 🤔 Moreover, upon activating the dehumidifier, I made an intriguing discovery. The CO2 levels have soared over 900ppm! It seems I've stumbled upon an unexpected correlation. I'll certainly be investigating this further to unravel the mystery. Science at work! 🔬🌿🔍 Well, my fellow enthusiasts, that wraps up the highlights for this week. Let's remain optimistic as we eagerly await our plants' recovery and resurgence. I have faith that they will bounce back stronger than ever, for nature has a remarkable ability to rejuvenate. 🌿🌱💚 Remember, challenges are but stepping stones on the path to growth. Embrace them, learn from them, and continue nurturing your green wonders with love and care. Together, we shall conquer any hurdle that comes our way! 😜💪🌿🌟 Wishing you all an incredible week of growth and exploration. Happy growing, lads! 🌱🌿✨😄

This week was a usual week, nothing special happened, the plants evolved as expected. Just giving a brief story to myself until next week. I had to increase the lights again, because the plants were getting to close to it.

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

What up fam, weekly update on these gorgeous ladies. Starting week 3 of veg, wow does time fly. They've progressed beautifully, and probably doubled in size the last week. This will be the last week of veg before that preflower stretch stage appears but over all I couldn't be happier with how they're doing. All in all Happy Growing

Trim done Monday 20th tent was getting a big overgrown plants are still a bit stressed not drinking. Sprayed with bud buddy tuesday 21st Buds are starting to pack on some more mass now

Strong smell small plant