Let’s go day 19 of flower🌺 y’all!!! These girls are doing so amazing, especially the smell for these already , just absolutely lovely! We are heading into week 3 of flower alot of very nice bud spots to build on , these girls are gonna be one of a kind so y’all don’t want to miss them next updates, keep them eyes peeled! Y’all have an amazing productive day and let’s grind the rest of this week out and have an amazing weekend! Peace love an positive vibes to all y’all Cheers 😶‍🌫️💨💨💨💨💨🤙🏻

Spoted no more herms! decreased UVA to 6h again because some budtips turn white (light bleach) even the lights are 40cm away...last time they bleached too but with light 30cm away... 2 weeks to go

Will be harvesting Anandamida in the next few days, I placed her inside to protect from the rain

This week went pretty well, but I am struggling with a heat wave here in my region. She is finally starting to smell like sweet grapes, and a few of the top leaves have a couple light burn spots on them because they are constantly pointing straight up and the tips are pretty close the lights. She is at 52" tall right now, and in her 5th week of flower. I think she should be ready to harvest in about 5 weeks. I have no idea what this little lady is going to put out, but I have a feeling it is going to be huge if she keeps bulking up for a couple more weeks like she did this past week. I also had to add another dehumidifier outside and one inside the tent. So now between the 3 dehumidifiers I have running non-stop, I am able to maintain 45% RH inside the tent. I have never seen a single plant put out this much humidity. Also waiting for this heat wave to end on Wednesday, I am struggling to keep my tent at 75 degrees F. This little lady is turning out to be a little piglet, she eats and drinks everything I throw at her and then wants more..... I hope everyone had a great weekend, stay safe and Blaze On!!!

Yoooo!!! What's brackin fam!!! Update!!! Soo! She stretched almost an inch in 6 days maybe more it's truly amazing and this cropsalt stuff is no joke I'll literally challenge anyone to use it by direction and not see why it's the best!!! PERIOD!! other then that she is drinking alot more and eating steadily more as well, I am going to cut clones by this week or next and then start that GD foenthe large tent, this girl is fairing really well considering the home conditions I have with her but otherwise she has been absolutely a breeze to grow!!! Thanks for stopping by will update as this week goes on thanks!!!

week 5. oct 9 I believe I am getting the calmag deficiency corrected - none on new leaves. one stretched to 23 inches by 10-16. growing about 1.5" a day. the middle plant is at 15.5" 10-16. growing over an inch per day. hopefully they stop next week when they are flowering. the back plants definitely show signs of flowers with the hairs starting to grow. Interestingly the plants at the front seem a few days behind.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Week 1 Day 1 - Clones #1 and #2 are looking alright, not super strong and slight nutrient deficiency issues, but OK. Will just observe for now. - These clones are currently under a very mild CFL light (20 cm away and about 200 ppfd measured roughly by phone app - Tent Buddy.) - Clone #3 still need to be covered to maintain moisture. Yesterday I un-cupped the clone and it wilted a lot. This morning it looks better again after a night of rest under the plastic cup. - I've checked the run off and these clone's pH are so low, while TDS are so high (pH 5.7 and TDS 800pm). This evening, I flushed them with pH 6.5 water and brought the runoff to about pH 6.0 and 350 ppm) Week 1 Day 2 - Just foliage spray with mild CalMag this morning. Soil is still moist, so no watering. Week 1 Day 3 - Just minor watering today. Glad to see the clones are doing well as they are growing a bit everyday. Will transfer them to 3 gallon airpots with new soil mix soon. Week 1 Day 4 - Foliage spray with mild CalMag and Seaweed. Add 5ml of 250 ppm of balanced NPK nutrients AN B52 for each plant. Week 1 Day 5 - Foliage spray with mild CalMag and Seaweed. Transfer them to 3 gallon airpots. Week 1 Day 6 - Foliage spray with mild CalMag and Seaweed. Skip watering. The clones responded OK to the new airpots. Week 1 Day 7 - TBA

Smells amazing, buds are greesy to the touch…serious genetics from fast buds!

Chopped and dried 7/8 of the females so far. All sorts of terps and flavors. Stanky rotten to perfumey chemical to intoxicatingly sweet to chemical earth Check out my YouTube for long form content that I can't post here https://youtube.com/@aestheticgenetix?si=pSk5e-kvp-nVYccc I also have a review video up if interested of the super sour double diesel. It got age gated so you might have to look for it. But it's my most recent video(as of the time I typed this)

Another demanding week for these ladies but they have reached a milestone. Week 8, and my custom fit SCROG has been installed! ❤️ At Day 50 I separated my 7 gallon girls and my 5 gallon girl. Once done, I began the very easy process of adding my “floating” SCROG. I use ratchet straps, just like the ones that come with lights to secure the four corners of the screen to the top of my tent. This allows me to adjust the screen height as necessary when 1) first installing and 2) once the full stretch of flower has occurred, I can tweak it a bit to balance the canopy as best as possible. It’s not 100%, I still get some over achievers, but I find it useful as another option. I like to do a major defoliation before I set the ladies in. Typically till this time, I have done almost no defoliation, just LST and some HST techniques. I adjusted the ladies placement to allow growth out all sides of the screen, set the screen height and began tucking and bending. The defoliation and bending allows light to penetrate all those side shoots that would have amounted to nothing, and they become top shoots as they grow up and form an even canopy. I don’t like to weave, it can damage the new shoots and cause growth problems, but the goal is to get as even a coverage as you can while allowing for plant growth in all directions. Once complete, I will give the girls about a week to recover and grow those new shoots. I like to have about 80% coverage of the screen, before I change my light cycles to flower 12/12… and if they are healthy and strong. I’ll decide this weekend if it is time ❤️👊🇨🇦😎 Happy Gardening!

Day 14 and i gave this girls the first “little “ defoliation 😆 lets see how they react but for now they seem pretty happy 💚💚💚 Day 18 and they are as if i never touched them, no signs off any stress or delay on drinking what so ever 🙏💚 this girls are champs 💪💪💪 Ppfd- 800Umol/m2s VPD- 1.15 kPa Girls : Tropicana Poison @sweetseeds - 7X Chocolate Skunk @00seeds - 2X Badazz Cookies OG @seedsman- 3X Lights 2X Lumatek Zeus 465W Compact Pro @ 75% All i Grow is medicine for myself, i do it with love for the love 💚💚💚 Growers love to you all

F50 Day 50 of flowering Humboldt Sour Diesel SD2 smells like vaseline/engine grease and tire burning with an oil/kerosine spill. The smell will get in your nose whether you like it or not and the smell has a thickness to it. SD3 smells like sweet oranges but mostly engine grease. A warm aroma,very pleasant. The buds are firm.

Vamos familia, actualizamos la cuarta semana de floración de estas NoName de Seedstockers. La temperatura que estuvo entre los 24-26 grados y humedad dentro de los rangos correctos. En cuanto a las plantas las veo verde sano, estiraron bien y ensancharon bastante también. Las flores empezaron a formarse, por el momento todo correcto, os dejé también alguna novedad y un cambio en la sala, agradecer al equipo de seedstockers por hacerme llegar las novedades y a Mars hydro por el nuevo TSW2000. - os dejo por aquí un CÓDIGO: Eldruida Descuento para la tienda de MARS HYDRO. https://www.mars-hydro.com Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

I seperated them now. The bigger one stays in the 90ltr Pot. The other got in a 13ltr pot. Later in 20ltr. Topping the small on in 1 or 2 weeks. Than LST and 12/12. Its a bit hot the next weeks. Have to look more after the plants.

They looking 🤤

Les plantes sont totalement givré,une forte odeur se dégage de la tente je ne serais dire ce que c'est. Une tige c'est brisé sous l'effet de la chaleur par conséquent changement d'ambiance pour ces dames. - cette semaine j'ai enlevé les petites têtes qui n'allait pas gonflée pour permettre à la plante de rédiger l'énergie vers les colas principaux. Pour finir une des gorilla sherbet a des teintes rougeâtre violet a voir.