Hi Growmies Here we are at the expected finish time and the most mature of these ladies ( #1) is still only starting to cloud up her trichromes. Lots of clear ones still waiting to start ripening though and next to no Amber trichs yet. Looking at the burnt orange pistils and her overall appearance , without checking her trichromes, I would have harvested her too early. Well worth the investment to hit their sweet spots. The other two ladies are filling put nicely too with plenty of mains within the canopy. Their lowers could have done with more light from a good defol but I wanted to are how much difference it would make. The #1 has been on just water the past few days but no signs of her cannibalising herself yet. The other two are finishing up their second tomladt feed and I plan 1 more before I flush them for their ripening. I think that the 3 weeks for flowers to appear after the flip may have added the extra time to their finish. Until next time , be well.

They are getting big and starting to smell pretty much

Day 50 - Decided to veg for one more week. Plants currently 70cm x 70cm wide and 33cm tall, hoping to get to 40cm at end of week. Fixed issue with the low extration rate. Found the filter had become blocked from the humidifier. Have moved it to the opposite side of tent. Hopefully this prevents it from happening again. Day 53 - Have been have Ph issue again due to algae. Plant hasnt been drinking much and growth seems very slow. Day 55 - Defoliated whole plant. Roots have some slime on them. Peroxide flushed with plain water for 12hrs maintained around 150ppm. All slime appears to be gone.

Well, I am not so afraid of heavy defoliation any more. 😁 I can already see the benefits. I do have to be careful when reaching in to apply bondage or make adjustments. I unfortunately lost some buds. This speaks to early training, and earlier pruning. I will plan to have better access to each branch. No mold, roots are happy. The smell in there is spicy floral and dank, almost rotten. My filter is old, and not suited for the high cfm needed to keep the heat down. My ONA bucket is also a bit old. I will have to give that room a periodic ozone blast.

Pronti per iniziare un nuovo ciclo aspettando che queste siano pronte per fumarle... questa sera mi sentirò un po più solo, dato che non andrò a visitare le mie cucciole e non controllero ec e ph... Inizio al più presto.. la pianta é vita!

Day 9 I had no choice but to defoliate, the canopy was getting way to dense and humidity was hard to control even with my 30 pin dehumidifier. Hopefully will not affect to much. Probably I will do another defoliation on day 21. TDS stays at 550PPM this week and CO2 at 1200PPM.

8 weeks / 56 days today. Growth has slowed down a lot this week luckily. Smell is getting really hard to contain now. Sticky orange buds still nowhere near as big as purple skunk but definitely a bit fatter than last week. Purple skunk buds are getting a lot fatter. Both are really sticky to the touch, looking a bit frosty close up and can see plenty of trichomes. Little bit of leaf burn but not a lot I can do because of the space issue so just tucking the branches and leaves as best I can and moving the lights around a bit to minimise it. Watering between 1 and 1.5 litres every other day and they are soaking it all up. Increased to 3ml per litre of nutrients too. Humidity has been a lot easier to keep under control this week and hasn’t risen above 60 all week so I am happy with that. it’s been a worry for a few weeks. I had a real panic this week when I thought I saw seed sacks forming at the base of each branch. But after hours and hours of reading, I am pretty sure they’re calyxes. No intentional defoliation this week but I’ve accidentally snapped a couple of fan leaves whilst watering. I really need a bigger tent! Would love opinions on when you all think they might be ready for the chop. Comparing to other diaries I still think I’ve probably got another 6+ weeks but I’m daring to think about how/where I’m going to dry them out. I’m pretty sure purple skunk will be ready first so drying in the tent will be a no go.

Jour42 defolliation and LST Jour45 defolliation Jour47 arrosage avec de l'eau ph6.3 à laquelle j'ajoute 1ml par litre d'eau de topmax biobizz La plante entre maintenant en floraison c'est donc le début du stretch Explication en anglais (Stretch explanations more) EXPOSURE TO LIGHT One of the main culprits in abnormal stretching of cannabis plants is the lack of light. Plants that are too far from an adequate light source will respond by accelerating stem growth in order to get closer to the lamp themselves. Especially when there are many other plants. A lack of lighting can easily cause overcrowding in a growing chamber, reducing the steady progression of your crop and the distance ratio between your bulbs and your plants. To address this problem, be sure to provide enough light to your plants to prevent stem growth. At the same time, you should not position your lights too close to your plants either since this would also result in an over-stretching of the stems and in some cases, the loss of your crop. In addition to the distance between the light source and the plant, the type of light you will use also affects the size of the stretching of your crop. The orange and red lights encourage stretching and result in thinner, larger stems. And conversely, blue light stimulates a growth of thicker stems and a smaller size. When a species is ready to enter the vegetative phase and undergo its most drastic stretching period, metal halide lamps can be used to deter far too long stems. THE HEAT Heat is another essential element that can determine the stretch size of your plants during vegetation. Temperatures above 27 degrees push the stems to lengthen more and more and will propel the potential of sativas to push as high as possible. Heat lamps that are positioned too close to plants create an intolerable environment that will grow large, soft plants that will potentially wobble until they fall and lose flowers in its fall. OTHER CAUSES OF STRETCHING There are multiple variables that can lead to the stretching of plants beyond what could normally be expected of the plant. Environmental stressors resulting from transplantation (when a plant passes from one pot to another) can cause the plant to return to shock. This will eventually trigger a reaction causing a stretch. Cannabis plants that are not grown in decent conditions or do not receive enough nutrients will respond in a variety of ways and this includes stretching. Crops that are not spaced far enough apart are likely to stretch to sting the light to other plants. Due to extreme proximity, the plants will fight among themselves to reach the light, forcing them to expand as much as possible throughout the crop. HOW TO CONTROL STRETCHING DURING FLOWERING Stretching during flowering, you guessed it, takes place when you move your plants from the vegetation stage to the flowering stage. This is a completely normal reaction, as your plants are preparing to bear the weight of their heads. Stretching of a plant at the beginning of flowering varies widely; some plants can double in height while others grow only a few centimetres. There are, however, two main variables that can give you at least an idea of how your plants are stretching during flowering, and how much. Here are these two variables: Variety: Genetics has the greatest impact on the size of your plant. In general, sativa varieties stretch more than indicas and tend to develop long, slender stems. Light: Some lights, such as HPS, are more likely to encourage stretching. In addition, great distances between your canopy and your lights will cause the plants to stretch as they try to get closer to the light source. Stretching during flowering usually lasts the first two weeks of the phase. To minimize stretching, keep your lights between 10 (for CFL) and 30 centimetres (for HID) of your canopy. Finally, choose indica varieties if you have a smaller growing space. HOW TO AVOID STRETCHING In many cases, you can expect your cannabis plants to stretch during the flowering phase. Keeping that in mind helps to make a plan in case your species ends up growing much more than you could have imagined. If the information is available, get information on the standard size of your species and compare it to the size of your growing space taking into account the necessary distances between the bulbs and the plants. TRAFFIC While outdoor crop operations benefit from natural air to naturally limit stretching, indoor crops must assume the maintenance of air circulation within a confined space. Basic ventilation is enough to help the cannabis stems strengthen and become thicker rather than too high. In this way, the plants continue to grow vigorously without reaching heights and at the same time, your tolerance ceiling. MANUAL INTERVENTION For growers who want to get their hands dirty, there are physical procedures that can be done to reduce stretching. Similar to the natural effect that the wind has on cannabis plants, manually bending the leaves and stems will cause tiny cracks in the plant's tissues that will cause the plant to focus on regenerating its wounds instead of its vertical growth. THE TOPPING Topping is a form of manual intervention on cannabis to influence its performance, shape or size. In essence, topping is a process in which a new node is cut, growing from the plant to reduce its size and create a "v"-shaped notch that will eventually form two heads. Topping may be an effective measure to combat stretching, but it is important not to do so when the flowering phase begins. In most cases, an abnormal stretch of cannabis plants will not completely destroy your crop. In fact, stretching can indeed help increase your performance. For growers with a growing operation large enough to contain tall plants, stretching can increase the total yield of a species with more vertical space for head formation. In both cases, stretching can easily be planned in advance and there are multiple solutions to help you with this problem which is all too common. May the force be with you 💪

WEEK 6 DAY 41 PICS Start to drop your temps at night this week! ⭐️Nutrients used this week⭐️ Front Row AG Part A 2.8g per gallon Front Row AG Part B 1.9g per gallon Front Row AG Phoszyme.4ml per gallon Front Row AG Bloom 3.1g per gallon Front Row AG CleanUp .4g per gallon Do not touch the plants this week. For the next 2 weeks I will raise the bloom extra .4EC. PUSH PUSH PUSH!!! End of week 7, in two more weeks, I will defoliate as many big fan leaves as I can. DO NOT TOUCH THEM TIL THEN. Phenotypes are starting to show distinct qualities this week. All of them have enormous colas! I’m glad i found this website. I was just looking for a place online that I didn’t have to hand write notes and didn’t know there was a whole community here. Thanks for stopping by and I’ll see you next week.

The cookies strain from fastbuds are sooo amazing. This pheno looks again so yummi, love it.

Day 53: I have a feeling that a bigger pot is necessary for FIMmed plants. Defoliated Lemon a little bit (used her leaves for a morning shake 😁). Some of her leaves are turning lime green, not sure what that's about. Overall excited about their day to day growth from now. Day 55: Followed some advice and tried to add some Cal in the form of chamomile tea. Ended up trimming the already deficient leaves will see what happens later on. Could also be light burn from the plants getting taller. Lemon Pie is showing the purple phenotype which I love!

Thank you. Gave her a cocktail to help with stress. Added 1st net for lateral support, not so much now, but for later. Blue light is absorbed by photoreceptor proteins called phototropins, which trigger a hormonal response that causes cells on the shaded side to elongate, making the plant bend toward the light. Try and fill this side a little. She is quite big already, just needs to find her stride again after the undue torture. 5 apex stems with 20-30 mini cola, let them develop a little, with the apical dominance shattered, all those 20-30 will all compete with each other as soon as that stretch is initiated. Key to a good stretch is making sure the plant is cycling efficiently, with large ATP conversions occurring lights out. For now, I'm keeping light intensity high. A plant will slow its vertical growth in very high light intensities, leading to a more compact form with thicker stems and leaves. This response is a protective mechanism against light stress, which can damage the photosynthetic apparatus and lead to symptoms like leaf scorching, yellowing, and brittleness. Instead of growing taller, the plant invests its energy into creating a more robust, stress-tolerant structure. Providing plants with necessary antioxidants helps protect the photosynthetic apparatus by scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS) that cause damage from excess light. UV light exposure can impact the xanthophyll cycle by either enhancing its photoprotective role or causing damage, depending on the intensity and type of UV radiation. UV exposure can trigger the synthesis of more xanthophyll cycle pigments to increase the plant's capacity to dissipate excess energy, but it can also cause direct damage, particularly to Photosystem II, and may lead to a decrease in the de-epoxidation state (DEPS ratio) which indicates a reduced capacity to dissipate excess energy. Plants can respond to UV stress by increasing the synthesis of xanthophyll cycle pigments, such as violaxanthin and zeaxanthin, to improve their photoprotective capacity. UV-induced changes in xanthophyll cycle pigments can be linked to a plant's overall tolerance to high radiation stress. The xanthophyll cycle helps protect against photoinhibition, which is especially important when the plant is exposed to high levels of both UV and visible light. High doses of UV radiation can directly damage photosynthetic components, including the proteins, lipids, and pigments in the thylakoid membranes. Exposure to UV radiation can have a mixed effect on the de-epoxidation state (DEPS ratio) of the xanthophyll cycle pigments. In some cases, UV can inhibit the conversion of violaxanthin to zeaxanthin, resulting in a lower DEPS ratio and a reduced capacity for energy dissipation. However, the total pool of xanthophyll cycle pigments may increase, and this enhanced pool size could provide a greater potential for photoprotection despite a lower DEPS ratio. The xanthophyll cycle works alongside other mechanisms, such as the accumulation of flavonoids (UV screens), to protect the plant from UV-induced damage. Blue light repairs 100% UV-induced damage in plants through a process called photoreactivation, which uses a light-dependent enzyme called photolyase. This enzyme uses energy from blue and UV-A light to directly reverse the damaging pyrimidine dimers in the DNA caused by UV-B radiation, a key mechanism for maintaining the plant's genetic integrity. After carbon, light, water, temperature, and nutrients, the limiting factor of a plant's growth is often its own internal factors or the amount of a key ingredient. Chlorophyll concentration is one such factor, as the amount of this pigment limits how much light can be captured for photosynthesis. Other factors include chloroplast number, respiration rate, and the concentration of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, as plants are often in a CO2-deficient condition. 60x60x18=64800seconds x 700 = 45,360,000moles. 45DLI Exposure to 165 µW/cm² of ultraviolet-B (UV-B) light for 3600 seconds = 1 hour, a extremely high, acute dose triggering stress responses and protective mechanisms. . The plant's photoreceptor protein, UVR8, senses the UV-B radiation. This triggers a signaling cascade that activates specific genes to protect the plant from damage. In response to the UV-B signal, the plant ramps up the biosynthesis of protective compounds like flavonoids, phenolic acids, and anthocyanins. These compounds absorb UV radiation and accumulate in the epidermal layers of leaves to shield inner photosynthetic tissues. The plant may increase leaf thickness or deposit more cuticular wax, creating a physical barrier to the radiation. The plant will produce more enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidants to neutralize the reactive oxygen species (ROS) produced by the UV-B radiation. The plant activates enzymes, including photolyases, to repair DNA damage caused by the UV-B. These repair mechanisms are critical for preventing permanent genetic mutations. While protective measures are activated, a high dose delivered over a short period can cause stress that overwhelms the plant's defenses. Photosynthesis is highly sensitive to UV-B. A high dose can inactivate Photosystem II (PSII), damage thylakoid membranes within the chloroplasts, and reduce chlorophyll content, which lowers the plant's overall photosynthetic capacity. Despite repair mechanisms, high UV-B doses can inflict persistent damage on the plant's DNA. The overproduction of reactive oxygen species can cause oxidative stress, leading to the oxidation of lipids and proteins and disrupting cellular function.

4/1 💦💦💦 4/2👍👍👍 4/3 💦🍓z is burning. she should have been topped but I didn't so she's too close to the light, very sensitive on nutrients. Not going to flush, too much work. Just water for her next feed cycle. Also my Ph was too low so that will be fixed to 6.5 from now on. 4/4🍓🍓🦍🍑🎄👍🎥 4/5👍👍👍 4/6💦💦💦

Está semana regamos ligeramente con agua dos días y el sábado 12 empezamos a hacer el té para echarselo lunes de madrugada

✌️🎃 Thank you for checking my cultivation. ✂️ Defoliation Time’s 🌷 Started flower stage

Hey guys . A wonderful week goes by with a super growth :-). After I topped it for the first time last week, it recovered very quickly and showed great growth. I don't think I will use topping again on the lady because I should slowly blossom with a few other women :-) think it will be ready in the next 7-14 days for Flowering 👍. This week it was poured 3 times with 1 l each time (for nutrients, see table above). The tent was cleaned and the health of all women was checked :-). After the photos she was sprayed again with neem oil so that the last little tripse disappeared. Even if you can't see any more trips I will spray it one last time next week to make sure :-). I wish you all a happy new year 2022 ☺️. Stay healthy 🙏🏻 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this strain at : https://www.exoticseed.eu/ Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 - 6.4 MadeInGermany

D-70 : At this stage, I'm a bit.... surprised that the Desfrans are not taller thant they are. The smallest one is 35cm wich is really small for a 100% sativa strain. The tallest one is about 56cm, wich is also quiet small I think. If I compare with some other diaries, the tallest one could be in the target if we take into account that I trained them a lot during their first weeks. But the small one is almost the half she should be... There's no sign of deficency, none ! I have 420w @ 50 cm from the top, so it's not because of the light. The container is a 20L smartpot. I simply do not understand. Is it juste because of that phenotype ? Will she grow during the next 7-9 weeks untill she'll recover her late ? I Modified a bit the position of the light so the Lumatek 100w FullSpectrum on the side of the box is really pointed to the "slow" girls. We'll see if it change anything but I really doubt about it... The only lead I have is : Desfran loves HEAT and Light. The 2 smallest are on the coldest side of the box, even if it's not cold at all. But it is the side near the window...