Está semana as cores estão mais vivas e o cheiro está forte ualll Red Hot com cheiro floral bastante tricômas, a sweet zkitllez cheiro de frutas tropicais intenso e doce adoro sweet seeds está de parabéns lol

Constructive interference is the phenomenon where two waves combine to form a new wave with a larger amplitude. This occurs when the peaks of one wave align with the peaks of another, and troughs align with troughs, causing their amplitudes to add together. For example, if two identical waves meet, their amplitudes will combine to produce a resultant wave with double the original amplitude. Constructive interference is a fundamental phenomenon based on the universal laws of nature, specifically the principle of superposition. 👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrification process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work. Oxygen is the alchemist's "fire"

there is a lot of Thc on the plant already

Plants got a surge of growth over the week, lookin forward to a decent canopy come flower. Switched to 12, keeping MH bulb going until i see flowers. Slowly beginning to wean off the calcium nitrate as well. Also have begun to do some light defoliation and pruning where necessary - best to nip it in the bud as they say - before the energy investment grows. Gotta be careful with your girls though, don’t get clipper happy. Cheers Late week update: Actually probably keeping calcium nitrate steady since it'll need more for the stretch, after which I'll quickly decrease and change my nute schedule.

This week I had to Lollipop again (I know is very late and I hope I didn’t stressed the plant to much). My canopy is so tick and so many overlapping leaves and buds in the center of the plant that don’t receive enough light or any at all , n combination with the RH swings that I got going on (45 and 63 RH), I’m very afraid of mold. I should have did a better job at Lollipoping from day 21. I’m inexperienced grower and I didn’t knew better. I decided is better to risk to shock the plant a little bit risking a reduction in yield then get mold or pests and lose it all. My 30 pin dehumidifier works great with the AC but sometimes when the AC( compressor) stops my RH jump at 62% -63%, witch I don’t like . I’m trying to keep the humidity around 50% but in such a small room between the AC and Dehumidifier I got big swings in temp ( 75-82) and RH ( 45%-63%) witch is not ideal but is nothing that I can do. I played with the AC and Dehumidifier setting a lot trying to keep humidity around 50% and temp around 80 degrees and that’s the best I can. My AC is set at 82 degrees and my Dehumidifier is set at 45% RH. Also during the lights off (day time) is very hard to keep the temperature In control when outside is 110-115 degrees with my portable AC (1400BTU) in the 4x 6 closet. Is crazy but I do my best to keep temp under control. This is another rocky mistake I made is trying growing weed DWC in the middle of summer where temps are 105-115 degrees constant in a closet without centralized AC port and at second level in the building. LOL Also I think I underfed her (630 PPM TDS, PH 5.8-5.9) ) and I got a Ca deficiency witch I think is the reason my flowers developed slower then I anticipated. Hopefully I’m wrong and everything will be good. P.S. I got a little bit of calcium deficiency caused by salt buildup (to much PK boost) despite my earlier belief that is underfed. I increased the PPM from week 4 (630-640TDS) to 680 TDS) on week 5 while I kept the PK booster at 3+ml l per gallon. Slightly my PPM’s was rising in my reservoir for few days until I decided that my plant can’t take that much nutrients (PK). 2-3 days after I increased the TDS I’ve noticed more spots on the lower leaves with tip burns on top ( first signs of PK toxicity). One day later found spots and yellowing of the leaves on top of the plant that indicates Ca deficiency caused by salt buildup ( PK toxicity) and reversed osmosis (hope I’m not wrong). Going into week 6 I lowered the PK boost at 1.5ml / gallon and total TDS to 640 PPM. Seems like leaves damage to stop and my PPM to stay stabile at 630-640. Trying to keep PH at 5.8 max 5.9. I will post pictures of my Ca deficiency/ PK toxicity. If you guys have any suggestions please leave me a comment.

Mit den Criticals bin ich voll und ganz zufrieden bis jetzt aber die Northern lights lassen ein wenig auf sich warten 👀

The final Week, before harvest! She has some massive towering buds! 2.5 gallons of water is lasting this plant 5-6 days before drying out, and ready for more.. She was harvested instead of being watered!

So this week I did a few upgrades in my garage. First off, I insulated the garage itself to minimize wasting energy keeping my garage warm. Secondly I put a little space heater to help keep my temps more consistent, especially when my lights go out for 8 hours it tends to drop into the mid 50’s, which personally is too low for veg for me anyway. My babies are starting to do some growing now, and with this weeks little bump up in nutrients, I think they will begin to take off. I went up with the calmag as I’m using 100% coco coir as my medium, and it really does eat up a lot of Calmag. I think my babies will get nice and green and have a nice life in my updated garage. Lemme know what y’all think, I’m happy to share and document not only successful grows, but failures also with everyone. We need to humble ourselves and learn to be better from one another everyday. Stay blessed everyone, HAPPY GROWING!

She's almost ready, I,m thinking that in two weeks Iwill cut. Lets see..

4.14.25. 2nd week of veg! Started tie down method on the 7th and going good nice new healthy growth! Going to start wrapping plant around perimeter of pot!

Need to step up my lighting game. Should install another scrog? or is it too late

I’ve kept almost all the fertilizer, light, and environmental parameters the same. I did a good defoliation to improve airflow, since I was having a bit of trouble lowering the humidity. This also helps the light penetrate better through the buds, allowing them to develop more fully.

Start of week 6 and she is 2 days into flower. Gave them a good feed. Ppm are at 970's.the extra 2 light have done a good job at filling in for side lights. Just sprouted HSO: PURPLE TRAINWRECK. Super stoked....The Barnes farm vanilla kush didn't germinate Evan after 5 days and some finess so....dud...the Banana has become a bush of a plant, bud sites everywhere.

Hi all! This girl does not even think of maturing yet .. the buds are getting fluffier and denser! the leaves began to slowly turn yellow and turn purple hues. I really hope and want that she would show 100% of her goetinics expressed in colors! in other aspects, I believe that I was able to achieve the maximum and grow a plant that fully reflects her genetics! I am 100% satisfied with the result! I hope that @GreenHouseSeeds will appreciate my work.

Lots of storm and rain too little sun. Plants doing fine. They love rainwater. Buds are forming, plantgrowth is strong now.

Well it's safe to say the foop will work with legit strong good bacteria! But the focus has to be on the root health when it comes to how much food you can add and still maintain healthy roots. But the game changer for me has been switching to a air stone, 1st and for most. The recirculation pump suggested by foop when running foop in dwc ran the solution temps into the high 70's around 77°F and anything over 75°F has been where root rot sets in for me. Even switched to way smaller recirculation pump with same results. So switching to running a air stone was big! But also found that running one Vivosun 317GPH Air Pump 15W split to 4 plants was not enough air for the roots to be happy in the foop plants. So I moved to a 2nd air pump, same size per tent. So now it's only split to 2 plants on the foop plants. And that made a big difference! But found after a few weeks that I had to bleed a slight amount of air off because there soo much extra air the humidity was sky rocketing in the tent to high 80%. So there's a sweet spot where they get extra air but not soo much that the humidity is affected. But the 2nd most beneficial thing I've done is start running Orca. It has made such a huge difference. I think I need to go up with how much I'm using or find something that works even better if possible. But the sweet spot now is 8 to 9ml total of each foop veg/bloom 1,2 and sweener. When I go to 12ml with foop 1,2 the roots take a noticeable hit. So idk how I would go to the recommended 20 to 50ml per gallon as suggested on the foop grow chart. Currently running around 6 to 10ml orca total per feeding. And adding 2 to 4ml when I add foop 1,2 mid week amd got happy roots! Also the Seaweed extract has made a difference in the smell the plant puts off. Last few grows have been really muted with smells and this grow I actually get hit in the face when entering grow room. So has made a difference forsure!! I'm soo excited!! I had skipped a feeding because I had been feeding a few tines mid week. And that's when all the yellow edges showed up I've been trying to get her back on track feeding mid week 4 to 6ml foop 1,2 and has made a difference forsure! I also added a Exhale C02 bag. So hoping that kicks her in high gear, but she already seems to be doing better! I also need to get back to trying to master the art of getting the ph to stabilize and not climb every 24hrs. Currently I have to ph daily 6/24 added 1L, 10ml Seaweed extract 6/25 added 2L 6/26 added 1.5L, 10ml Seaweed extract, 4ml orca, 4ml foop bloom 1&2, 4ml foop sweener, 3ml cal mag 6/28 added 2L 6/29 added 1.5L 6/30 added 1L, 20ml Seaweed extract 7/1 refreshed, gave 20ml hydroguard, 10ml orca, 25ml Seaweed extract, 9ml foop bloom 1&2. 10ml foop sweener, 5.5ml cal mag Records kept here: https://1drv.ms/x/c/fa218bbdbbfbd064/EYZwYiJbkHdKqKqmxBKBBEgBMfZ9Lh3BFPJZvpB3_52MaQ?e=v9Y0LL 👋👋👋 Hello, Thanks for checking out my grow!! Please like and follow I really appreciate it!🤟 Please feel free to leave questions and comments below!!👇 I really appreciate all advice!!! Check out my Instagram, you can message me there too! And check out my youtube for more content! Mistakes were made, but what better way then to live it and learn it yourself!!!!

Week 3 begins for LSD and Green Crack. Both ladies are looking good, but had some small signs of deficiency. Added big bud coco and upped feeding another liter (split feed day 1 & day 5 of each week), hopefully this will help resolve the deficiencies. Thanks for stopping by growfessors 👽🌳💚

Killer week. The BA x SD is just a monster. Topped at the 5th on day 15 and continues to branch out so fast. Now the WWK had a serious problem growing into the Kind Soil and got burnt up but she still has a decent growth rate. She was topped at the 3rd and cleared of the first node. All new growth is looking green and healthy so that's past us hopefully. I added some eye hooks to my autopot for the future training on the BA x SD.

Holky tloustnou budu muset dát sit😉