The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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@TyRun
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Placing a dehumidifier or humidifier in the grow box turned out to be ineffective when both devices have their own automated settings. For instance, a humidifier set to 55% humidity works within a ±5% range, meaning it waits until the humidity drops below 50% to turn on and runs until it hits 60%. Since its sensor refreshes every 30 seconds, it might show 54% one moment and jump to 61% the next—not exactly stable at 55%. The dehumidifier behaves similarly. To achieve more consistent results, it’s better to rely on a hygrometer inside the grow box and use “dumb” devices that simply turn on when powered. Connecting these devices to smart outlets provides more precise control. For manual control, I maintained around 55% humidity by turning the humidifier and exhaust fan on and off via phone. Most moisture and aroma are released during the first three days, then taper off. The common rule of “when thin branches snap, it’s dry” led me to overdry my buds. A more reliable method is to monitor the hygrometer. When humidity stabilizes after the initial rise, wait one more day and then jar the buds. Rehydrating Overdried Buds: Overdried buds can be revived with a small piece of mandarin (or orange) peel, about 2.5x2.5 cm. Thoroughly wash the peel (even sanitize it if needed), cut a square, and place it on top of the buds in the jar. In my experience, this brought the humidity from 46% to 62% within 4 hours. Afterward, burp the jars for 15 minutes and monitor the hygrometer. If the humidity drops below 55%, return the peel for a few more hours. Once stable at 60-62%, remove the peel and continue curing, burping the jars twice daily for 15 minutes. As for humidity packs like Integra Boost or Boveda, I used them because I had some lying around. These packs are designed for 12 grams of product, so they don’t make a big difference in larger jars. If you burp jars daily and gently rotate the buds, they’re not really necessary. Trimming and Results: After 7 days of drying, I decided to trim dry this time. It turned out to be somewhat more convenient—everything gets covered in resin anyway, but the remaining leaves easily fall off, speeding up the process. I went for a tight trim, removing as much as possible. During the process, I felt disappointed seeing how little remained on the branches. The buds turned out airy and small, and I started cursing American genetics halfway through the trim. However, when it came to weighing, the results were surprisingly decent. Considering the buds' poor appearance, they’re not going to impress anyone visually, so it might have been easier to shred everything and use it for extraction. I don’t have extraction equipment, so I’ll make cannabutter from the trim, and the buds can rest in jars for now. Takeaways: Use a proper hygrometer for humidity control, not built-in sensors on humidifiers or dehumidifiers. Overdried buds can be easily rehydrated with citrus peel. Daily burping and rotation are sufficient for curing without humidity packs. Dry trimming can be faster and more convenient but may highlight issues with bud density. Despite underwhelming appearance, high resin content makes the strain great for extraction.
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my experience with these strains has not been one of the best .... in the last few weeks there has been a sharp increase in temperatures making things very difficult ... very slow growth for coockies considering that in the same tent I had 3 other autoflows that had been ready for a few weeks. discrete power .... almost light ... lighter flowers inside the buds ... ABUNDANT HARVESTS FOR ALL OF YOU ... FRIENDS PEAKYPLANTERS GREETS YOU
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Day 31: 2L (PH6.3) with 1ml/L PK13-14 She's definitely well on her way to stretch, and some of the bud sites are already showing signs of consolidation and an increase of mass, not so much as to call it stacking or bulking, but a great early flower nonetheless. To aid with bud forming, I've started mixing in some flower nutes. I'm starting at half dose and will probably follow up with a regular watering later this week. Additionally, after taking the pictures, I removed the upper fan leaves of the main cola and the next highest too since it was outpacing the others. I'm trying to not agitate her too much to prevent stunting. Since she's grown so much, the main cola was receiving 900 PPFD, and the lowest canopy budsite - in the front on the pictures - was receiving about 450 PPFD. Hence, I raised the light up to 30cm above the main cola. I haven't remeasured the PPFD afterwards. Day 34: 2L (6.5PH) + 0.5mL/L CalMag
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@Ju_Bps
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Hello growmies 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾🌲🌲, 👋 Buds keep coming along but not yet bump. 💡I've removed 2 hours this week, in 2 times, 1 hour start week, 1 more hour removed mid week, because I'll have soon some photoperiod in the tent, ⏰️ 20/24 On 💪keep removing some leaves 🍃 💧 Give water each 2/3 day 1.5 l Water + Roots + Zym + Bloom + Green Sensation (1 + 1 + 5 + 1 ml/l) 1.5 l Water + Roots + Zym + Bloom + Green Sensation + Sugar Royal (1 + 1 + 5 + 1 + 1 ml/l) PH @6 💡Mars Hydro - FC 3000 50% 38 cm. Mars Hydro Fan kit Setting 6, don't need more for the moment, no smeel out of the tent. Have a good week and see you next week 👋 Thanks community for follow, likes, comments, always a pleasure 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾❤️🌲 Mars Hydro - Smart FC3000 300W Samsung LM301B LED Grow Light💡💡 https://www.mars-hydro.com/fc-3000-samsung-lm301b-led-grow-light Mars Hydro - 6 Inch Inline Fan And Carbon Filter Combo With Thermostat Controller 💨💨 https://www.mars-hydro.com/6-inch-inline-duct-fan-and-carbon-filter-combo-with-thermostat-controller Anesia Seeds - Frozen Black Cherry Auto🌲🌲🍒🍒 https://anesiaseeds.com/product/frozen-black-cherry-auto/
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Well a normal week growth was good those lower branches are starting to grow and she is getting taller .The internode gap or distance seems like it will be close which is good as my height is restricted a bit ... The genetics at seedstockers are awesome you guys if this one grows anything like the others i got then dam she will produce .can't wait to see where I am next week cheers canna family
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Day 36-42 Ladies gettting bigger. Putting in net for LST Btw Day 42 already Flower Day 4! So the pics near the end are start of flower :) In my opinion the stretch is not that much, so keep them ladies longer in veg. Looking back i d say veg another 10 days maybe and then get them into flower. Mine was too early
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Missed last week update but did some cutting girls have to live up to the mission 73 between the 5 plant....added one more which was a cutting from a seed plant harvested previous...didn't look like I did anything so cut dem a few day later 85 between the same plants... only cut the lower half of G4 n smaller inside branches( going to stop they dont hold up well)
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@Rangaku
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Looking nice and healthy, starting nutes now and trying to keep the humidity up
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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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Week 15 (5/30/22 - 6/5/22) - FLOWER Week 1 Left camping for a week and came home to these lil ladies shooting past the trellis. I pulled them down under the trellis and tried to evenly shape the canopy then defoliated and "shaved the legs" Then flipped to flower on 6/1/22
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@Kirsten
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HULKBERRY So this week, I was actually looking to harvest her, but whilst I was defoliating in preparation for the chop, I saw that the buds below the canopy are still underdeveloped. I just removed the rest of the dead leaves and watered instead. It was absolutely bone dry because I was planning to chop. Oops! 😅 Anyway, here's what I used for feedings this week: 20.6.25: I watered with 2ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.6 and containing the following nutrients per 2 litres; ♡ 1/4 Tsp Cal-Mag ♡ 1/2 Tsp Mega Crop Part A ♡ 1/2 Tsp Sea K(elp) All by Greenleaf Nutrients. PH: 6.5 PPM: 1400 I gave another 2ltrs this day consisting of: 2ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.5 with the following nutrients; ♡ 1/2 Tsp Sea K(elp) ♡ 1 Tsp Mega Crop Part A PPM: 1280 PH: 6.5 22.6.25: I watered with 2L of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.5 and containing the following nutrients per 2 litres; ♡ 3/4 Tsp Cal-Mag ♡ 1/2 Tsp Mega Crop Part A ♡ 1/2 Tsp Sea K(elp) All by Greenleaf Nutrients. PH: 6.5 PPM: 1450 + I watered with 2L of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.6 and containing the following nutrients per 2 litres; ♡ 1/2 Tsp Sea K(elp) by Greenleaf Nutrients PH: 6.6 PPM: 660 23.6.25: I gave 4l of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.6 with the following nutrients; ♡ 1ml Ecothrive Trace PPM: 333 PH: 6.6 + I watered with 2L of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.3 and containing no nutrients. PH: 6.3 PPM: 307 Thanks for checking in and hanging out 💚 ✌️ 🍃 😊 🌱
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In this week, everything is fine and she is really grow. I fed her nutrients at Day 15 but I made a mistake that’s forgot to change Rapid Start ratio 😁. I added CO2 bag to my tent at her 19 day but her new leaves seem to be curling next day.Actually, she is ill 🤒. At her 21 day, I flushed grow medium with 5.8 ph water and fed Cal - Mag and nutrients with 539 ppm.
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Processing
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She's by far the prettiest plant I've grown, she keeps smelling better and better. I haven't documented the nutrients very well but within the past few weeks I've slowly started feeding her more and more till it's seems like a significant amount to note. She's looking to finish up by Christmas hopefully!