Week 1-3 250watt metal halide Week 4-13 250 watt hps 5 gallon living soil in fabric pot Red clover living green mulch Alfalfa sprouted seed tea (seedling stage) Spinach fermented plant juice ( during vegetative) Calcium phosphate from charred bones ( added during transition to flower) Lacto bacillus (once every 4 weeks) Fermented fish amino acids (during early flower) Top dressed with gaia green powerbloom. (Early flower) I decided to top this plant really last minute 10 days in to flower( yeah I know, probably not the best idea) and it didn't even phase this girl at all. What I learned this grow: Some plants smell more than others( by a lot). Use a filter even when venting outside. The Green mulch was nice until I wanted to top dress. Need to find another form of mulch that I can move. Lay off all the additives a bit. Not sure if any of the things I added really did anything but I like to experiment, and she took it well. I will definately be growing this sexy little plant again💚

Que pasa familia, actualizamos las lemon kush y que aroma ya, empezamos apreciar olores en el cuarto, os aseguro que viene de aquí, tienen buen color, no es lo más grande pero se garantiza un buen desarrollo. En las imágenes podéis apreciar bien el proceso semana tras semana. 55% de humedad maxima y 29 grados maximos de temperatura.

Start of week 3 of flowering. This Do-si-dos girl is hungry! She's now up to 6 liters per feeding. Bud sites are developing nicely, added B52 to the feed this week.

LST on day 37

This plant is just gorgeous! She is really starting to develop nice bud sites. My super soil mix is keeping her super healthy and happy!! I keep making sure to stay on top of her as far as treating her with OMRI fungicides. I made the tough decision to chop down my Mango Sapphire this week as she had a lot of powdery mildew starting. It was too close to this lady and decided the risk was too great. I can’t wait to see what another week brings!! Onward! 😎🔥🍻🍿🌱

She is truckin right along. I love this stage of flower when little buddlets are all over her. If the genetics of fast buds are all like this, I may have found a new autoflower place, I do want to try some memphosto genetics though. I'm always hearing and seeing those big plants they throw out. Not many picture's this week got busy and had to play catch up.

📆 Semana 2 La planta entra de lleno en la fase de transición hacia la floración, acelerando notablemente el crecimiento vertical. 🌱 El stretch ya es evidente y las ramas laterales muestran un desarrollo excelente, ocupando cada vez más espacio y formando una estructura muy equilibrada. La respuesta al entrenamiento ha sido positiva en general, aunque una rama lateral se perdió tras una torsión excesiva durante el LST. Aun así, la planta mantiene un vigor sobresaliente y redistribuye rápidamente la energía hacia el resto de puntas activas. El sistema radicular sigue expandiéndose y el consumo de agua aumenta de forma constante, acompañado de una demanda nutricional cada vez mayor. Los tallos continúan engrosando para soportar el crecimiento explosivo que se espera durante las próximas semanas. ⚡ EC: 1.2 - 1.3 💧 pH: 6.3 🌡️ Agua: 18–22°C 🌫️ Humedad: 50–60% ☀️ Luz: directa mes de Junio 🌡️ Temp ambiente: 22–28°C 🔥 Nota: El stretch gana intensidad y la estructura final de la planta comienza a definirse. Las ramas secundarias se convierten en futuras zonas productivas y la planta muestra un crecimiento muy vigoroso y saludable. Seguimos creciendo fuerte 💪!

Week 8 begins! Strawberry Banana is doing great, nice buds super frosty, sticky, heavy and dense. I continue to be impressed by this light and how this plant has grown under it.

Week 8 Flower week 2 Flower-day 5 26/10/2025 Finally feeling good again! Kept the same nutrient mix almost the same, have had to use some others just to get by until more rock up 🙃 Floramax Veg 1: 1000ml Floramax Rezin: 400ml Floramax Organabud: 400ml Floramax Flowering Enhancer: 400ml Cyclo Platinum Silica: 200ml ISN Cal-Mag: 400ml (still waiting on my main one to be delivered, so using what’s left of this) Green Planet Massive Bloom: 200ml Green Planet Bud Booster: 4 scoops (30ml each) Sleeps with the Fishez: 100ml — used some hydrogen peroxide today while waiting for the next batch to arrive next week I’ve been looking into a flushing additive called New Millennium Winter Frost for a nice clean finish. Pistils finally popped up yesterday on a few of the top sites! Should start seeing some solid stretch from Grape og soon, guessing around 30 to 40cm at least. I’m letting her do her thing and reach up into the net for now. If she starts getting crowded before the end of week 3, I’ll kick off some early defoliation. Also got two AC Infinity IonBeam S11 lights set up sitting about level with the top colas. I’m aiming the light to hit the middle and lower sections instead of blasting the tops directly, trying to get that nice even coverage. Still debating whether I even need to scrog this run, but a few people keep telling me to give it a go to see the difference, I guess only one way to tell 🙌

1 - 2 week left before Harvest!! Smells like Grape and Blueberry if anyone's had blueberry hash they would understand what I'm smelling .Not A Huge yield but quality should be !

Week 12 – Frost Incoming & Finding the Peak ❄️🔥 Hey Muchachos, welcome to Week 12 – and things are getting serious now. The girls are deep into bloom, stacking fast, frosting up, and showing their full potential. This week I made an important adjustment: I reduced the LED power from 100% down to 80%. The tops were getting very bright and I could see the limits of the setup approaching. At 80%, the canopy looks perfectly balanced — honestly, I think this is the true peak of this tent. Up to now nobody reached this level in this setup… except the Princess. She’s pushing harder than anything I’ve seen before in here. The buds are building beautifully — long spears, dense internodes, and fresh white pistils everywhere. The first layer of frost is coming in strong, and the smell is starting to speak up: sweet, tangy, a bit funky, very promising. I’m also observing some nitrogen movement in the lower leaves. Could be natural N-mobility in mid-flower, could be a slightly reduced N level in the soil — but right now I’m not worried. The plants look healthy and focused on bud production, so I’m letting them do their thing. Airflow is perfect, the canopy is stable, and every top is getting clean light. This is the phase where they start packing on weight day by day, and you can literally watch the buds change every morning. Stay tuned, Muchachos – the frost season just kicked in. OnlyBuds! ❄️🌿🔥

WEEK 6 - Both ladies are growing well 9L Pot the plant is in flowering stage and the buds are start forming 12L Pot is in pre flowering stage and getting big

Just started flush, will be cut and hung in 2 weeks its snowing here in the mountains of Colorado so I am filling the top of the pot with snow since this does increase trichome production and I did half way cut it down about 1/4 deep both sides of the stalk

Hello This is the end of week 5 and the beginning of week 6 of flowering. The plants are starting to put on some weight now... and the resin is flowing. I like it when the resin is visible on the edges of the top fan leaves too. Those plant always have more resin.... Still got a month to go. I like to flower for 10 weeks. Smelling strong in here now.... Sweet Candy Floral Cookies... Yeah Smells Good!!! 😃 OK. Have Fun. Chuck.

In love with the colors🤩 I have 3 different pheno Pheno 1 : « black » big buds the smell is earthy & citrus🍋 Pheno 2 : purple the buds are looong sausage shaped the smell is sweet citrus & floral 🍭🍋 Pheno 3 : my favorite🤤long buds and the smell is tropical if you mix the Tropicana cookies & the orange sherbet from fast buds you have the smell!🌴🍊 See you in 1 month for the smoke review Take care 😎

5/4 I stupidly watered everything this morning. They were pretty much perfect weight for transplant......then I watered them. Oh well. If that's the worst mistake I make I'll be ecstatic. Went back over and found my 1 gal and 2 of those wierd slanty airports that tapers and holds like a gallon and a half and washed them. I mixed up 12 gallons of soil in a garbage bag and mixed it thoroughly with my gloved hands. It's mixed good. Looking at my plants in sadness thinking, "today could've been the day" and noticed a Special Kush of average size I didn't water that weighed in the 220's. I was happy. I filled the pit arpund a cup before removing it leaving the perfect hole. Mykos and water were poured in. Plant came out of the cup REALLY easy. Suprisingly easy. This wasn't totally dry. I was amazed it came out so easy so I kinda rolled it around looking at the roots. I started lowering it in the hole and I felt something break away but it webt DIRECTLY into the hole made for it. I tucked some soil around it but it was pretty tight from packing it around the empty cup. Didn't take a picture but the plant is fine. That was an average size plant too. So I may have to give some of the strains I popped later a little longer before I transplant. After everything's been transplanted I'll need to change lighting again. I think I'll open the window and use the hps and the l.e.d on the days and nights cThat's these girls won't be hardening off. I so wanna go plant those others but my intuition tells me to wait until morning and it's been serving me well. A couple can stay in cups longer. Not much longer but still. 5/5 Transplanted everything but two this morning into 1 gals with 1/2 happy frog half ocean forest. Mykos and water used during transplant. Found put the l.e.d was on for 24hrs for a while. I made sure the timer switch was ON but it was a different cord plugged in. Oh well. All transplants went perfect. I'm picking up an adapter for the outlet so I can plug the power strip into the timer and only use one timer. I had to hang the 150watt hps back up with the 1,000 watt equivelant 105 true watts. I hope this lighting setup works. Chemdog #4 and One MK Ultra will be transplanted later today or later in the morning. I also opened the shade to the south facing window. Shits getting real. EDÌT: I FINISHED TRANSPLANTING THE LAST TWO PLANTS AND PICKED UP THE ADAPTER SO I COULD HANG THE HPS NEXT TO THE L.E.D. THEY WERE FIBE WHILE I WAS GONE. EASIEST TRANSPLANTS EVER. THEY ALL LOOKED PERKY AND HAPPY SIX OR SEVEN HOURS POST TRANSPLANT. I OPENED THE CURTAIN TO (SOUTH FACING WINDOW) BUT I MADE SURE THE PLANTS WEREN'T IN THE DIRECT LIGHT. EVEN THOUGH IT WOULD PROBABLY BE FINE. LAST TIME I HAD SEEDLING IN DIRECT LIGHT. I'LL PLAY IT BY EAR BUT IM HAPPY. EDIT 2. Went back over to meditate by the stream and do my qigong. It's 75 and BEAUTIFUL today. The girls will be going out for a few hours on days like this. Anyway when I went in I was surprised to see everything looking nice and happy with praying leaves. Nothing is in direct sunlight but damn that window let's in a lot of light. 5/6 Girls LOVED the transplant! They seem to be all happy. No stress. Easiest transplant I've done. Leaves are praying upwards so I think the lights are approx tje right distance. They'll be going outside soon to harden off. It's been in the 70s but it's rainy now. I'll play it by ear according to weather. I'll continue to monitor lighting and I may lower the hps. 5/7 The soil was super dry when I went over this morning. Everything looked awesome though. I used about a half gallon watering. I don't want to water to run off. I want to keep the nutes IN the soil. It's also easier to fix an undet watered plant than an over watered one. It came out to about a half gaterade bottle on the biggest and half that on the smallest. I'll gradually increase water after I monitor the response. The water sat on the soil for quit a while so they definitely needed it. Looking good so far. 5/8 Soil lookeddry this morning. I think I'm going to up the water. Last time I dod seeds I gave like a pink. Some plants still had a little dampness where I watered that I could see. Others looked dry but happy. I gave the REAL dry bigger ones a small circle around the rootball. Just in case. I'm thinking of lowering the hps slightly so it's at least level with tje L.E.D. That window being open gives tons of light. If u moved them slightly left they'd get DIRECT sun most of the time. I'll be bringing them outside soon to start hardening them off. EDIT: WENT TO CHECK THE GIRLS AT 5 TO MAKE SURE THEY WERENT DRIED OUT. THESE GIRLS ARENT JUST GETTING BIGGER BY THE DAY THEYRE LOOKING BIGGER FROM MORNING TO NIGHT! ITS BEEN RAINING LIKE CRAZY BUT WE WILL HAVE GREAT WEATHER NEXT WEEK AND I'LL BE BRINGING THEM OUTSIDE. I'M SUPER HAPPY WITH GROWTH SO FAR. ILL PROBABLY HST (TOP/FIM) AT THE NEXT NODE. I WANT THEM TO SETTLE IN NICELY BEFORE STRESSING THEM. 5/9 I may have stupidly uploaded doubles of pictures from today. Soil LOOKED real dry. I gave the plants their first real watering. I still went light. Almost a gallon with all plants. I know many say I should be watering to runoff but I want to keep the nutes in the soul as long as I can I don't want to overwater. I always start out careful. Once they show they xan tolerate it I'll increase water next time. This weekend it will be raining but after that we are getting some real good weather and I'll he taking the girls out to begin hardening off. I also need to take a look and top/FIM the plants now that they are settled. Also need to wash grow bags and sanitize outside. 5/10 It's pouring out. Horrible night and morning but this is about cannabis. After the watering ALL the plants shot up in size! Substantially. Leaves are over the sides of containers. I think I'm somewhere close with the watering schedule. I may bring the hps light down a little. I also NEED to start HST. I need to FIM and/or top these girls. Unfortunately I've been dealing with medical problems of my wife so I haven't got to it. If I get some sleep I may do something this morning or in the afternoon.

Taking longer then I had planned but no rush she nearly done. Amber trichomes are visible so chances are this is last week next post should be harvest

En esta actualización se incluyen 2 semanas ya que por trabajo me fue imposible añadir la semana anterior. El día 15 de Agosto recibió la segunda pulverización de Bacillus Thuringiensis para prevenir el ataque de las orugas. Sigo alternando riego de agua un día con riego de Ascophillum Nodosum al día siguiente. He dejado de regar con Cannazym.

Thank you. Gave her a cocktail to help with stress. Added 1st net for lateral support, not so much now, but for later. Blue light is absorbed by photoreceptor proteins called phototropins, which trigger a hormonal response that causes cells on the shaded side to elongate, making the plant bend toward the light. Try and fill this side a little. She is quite big already, just needs to find her stride again after the undue torture. The mind is constantly working and producing, just like a factory. It's not just a passive recipient of information but an active producer of ideas, attitudes, and beliefs. The "ingredients" in this factory are the information you consume, such as books, conversations, and the media you engage with. The "products" are your thoughts, beliefs, and actions. The quality of the ingredients directly influences the quality of the output. To guard the door of your mind means to be selective about what you allow in. It involves actively choosing to consume positive and constructive information while filtering out negativity and harmful influences. If you don't guard your mind, others can "dump" whatever they want into it, leading to undesirable results in your life. You must take responsibility for the inputs to ensure you produce the outcomes you desire. 5 apex stems with 20-30 mini cola, let them develop a little, with the apical dominance shattered, all those 20-30 will all compete with each other as soon as that stretch is initiated. Key to a good stretch is making sure the plant is cycling efficiently, with large ATP conversions occurring lights out. For now, I'm keeping light intensity high. A plant will slow its vertical growth in very high light intensities, leading to a more compact form with thicker stems and leaves. This response is a protective mechanism against light stress, which can damage the photosynthetic apparatus and lead to symptoms like leaf scorching, yellowing, and brittleness. Instead of growing taller, the plant invests its energy into creating a more robust, stress-tolerant structure. Providing plants with necessary antioxidants helps protect the photosynthetic apparatus by scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS) that cause damage from excess light. UV light exposure can impact the xanthophyll cycle by either enhancing its photoprotective role or causing damage, depending on the intensity and type of UV radiation. UV exposure can trigger the synthesis of more xanthophyll cycle pigments to increase the plant's capacity to dissipate excess energy, but it can also cause direct damage, particularly to Photosystem II, and may lead to a decrease in the de-epoxidation state (DEPS ratio) which indicates a reduced capacity to dissipate excess energy. Plants can respond to UV stress by increasing the synthesis of xanthophyll cycle pigments, such as violaxanthin and zeaxanthin, to improve their photoprotective capacity. UV-induced changes in xanthophyll cycle pigments can be linked to a plant's overall tolerance to high radiation stress. The xanthophyll cycle helps protect against photoinhibition, which is especially important when the plant is exposed to high levels of both UV and visible light. High doses of UV radiation can directly damage photosynthetic components, including the proteins, lipids, and pigments in the thylakoid membranes. Exposure to UV radiation can have a mixed effect on the de-epoxidation state (DEPS ratio) of the xanthophyll cycle pigments. In some cases, UV can inhibit the conversion of violaxanthin to zeaxanthin, resulting in a lower DEPS ratio and a reduced capacity for energy dissipation. However, the total pool of xanthophyll cycle pigments may increase, and this enhanced pool size could provide a greater potential for photoprotection despite a lower DEPS ratio. The xanthophyll cycle works alongside other mechanisms, such as the accumulation of flavonoids (UV screens), to protect the plant from UV-induced damage. Blue light repairs 100% UV-induced damage in plants through a process called photoreactivation, which uses a light-dependent enzyme called photolyase. This enzyme uses energy from blue and UV-A light to directly reverse the damaging pyrimidine dimers in the DNA caused by UV-B radiation, a key mechanism for maintaining the plant's genetic integrity. After carbon, light, water, temperature, and nutrients, the limiting factor of a plant's growth is often its own internal factors or the amount of a key ingredient. Chlorophyll concentration is one such factor, as the amount of this pigment limits how much light can be captured for photosynthesis. Other factors include chloroplast number, respiration rate, and the concentration of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, as plants are often in a CO2-deficient condition. 60x60x18=64800seconds x 700 = 45,360,000moles. 45DLI Exposure to 165 µW/cm² of ultraviolet-B (UV-B) light for 3600 seconds = 1 hour, a extremely high, acute dose triggering stress responses and protective mechanisms. . The plant's photoreceptor protein, UVR8, senses the UV-B radiation. This triggers a signaling cascade that activates specific genes to protect the plant from damage. In response to the UV-B signal, the plant ramps up the biosynthesis of protective compounds like flavonoids, phenolic acids, and anthocyanins. These compounds absorb UV radiation and accumulate in the epidermal layers of leaves to shield inner photosynthetic tissues. The plant may increase leaf thickness or deposit more cuticular wax, creating a physical barrier to the radiation. The plant will produce more enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidants to neutralize the reactive oxygen species (ROS) produced by the UV-B radiation. The plant activates enzymes, including photolyases, to repair DNA damage caused by the UV-B. These repair mechanisms are critical for preventing permanent genetic mutations. While protective measures are activated, a high dose delivered over a short period can cause stress that overwhelms the plant's defenses. Photosynthesis is highly sensitive to UV-B. A high dose can inactivate Photosystem II (PSII), damage thylakoid membranes within the chloroplasts, and reduce chlorophyll content, which lowers the plant's overall photosynthetic capacity. Despite repair mechanisms, high UV-B doses can inflict persistent damage on the plant's DNA. The overproduction of reactive oxygen species can cause oxidative stress, leading to the oxidation of lipids and proteins and disrupting cellular function. I am playing in the enchanted forest.