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@J_Kush
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Nutrition and pest control are very easy. Seems you can't treat them wrong.
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I am cutting two handful of leafs every third day by now. Trying to figure out where the plant sends the least amount of energy ... Major lollypopping will be after week 2 or 3 of flower.
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And then there was one... This beast took over the tent and needed its own space so thats what I gave it and boy did it repay the favour! Plenty of really dense bud with a wonderful smell. It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas šŸ’š
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@CANNASIM
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Plants are responding well, still on a very light regimen, using only compost tea, declorinated tap water. Stem is thick, and strong, has a many colas shooting up with minimal training at the moment. Leaf color is vibrant, and dark. Using compost tea in the third watering as usual. > Compost tea with a twist #3 - 1 cup earth worm castings -1/4 of a cup bokashi -5 tsp recharge -1 tsp shell flour -1 tsp azomite Did not have organic molasses so preferred not to put anything, as the recharge and the bokash i use have some, originally is better to use some in pure form like 1/3 of a cup. EC after 24h is around 0.5 - 0.6, ph close to neutral. So used in pure form, possible to dilute if needed. So far I did not PH the water, only filtering it, gave a bit up on RO for now as the water discard is just insane... probably takes 2 gallons + to make one pure... Just not ecologic... so I have detached the membrane for now and am using two filtering steps, carbon and another one... This diary is probably the nightmare of any nutrient company. Note that Recharge is not needed or azos, I’m using because I have laying around here, a substitute would be some sprout seed tea. My choice for the organic, was to be able to abort ph, have a cleaner product, try something new, and reuse my soil...
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Transplant into 1 gallon plastic pot mycorrhizae for less transplant shock with coco coir had to buffer a brick for 18 hours submerged in calcium after couple days went organic for less of a headache of wasting money on nutrients to make it simple and effective control system 1 plant is showing deficiency working on bring it back to optimal used compost tea with silica , fish fertilizer Neptune , soil recharge every week ph to 5.8-6.0 1 gallon 1 cup water per plant bigger plants get 2 cups want less run off after 2 week to get the calcium out from the buffer solution added 2-84 geia green and 4-4-4 1 tsp per plant of each dry amendment water every day so coco doesn’t get dry roots are healthy on the bottom of gallon pot you see new growth soon thinking of transplanting for better results during flowing stage currently photo and auto soon cross breed some of them during flower for new future projects ,
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@leithsffs
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I started harvesting 6 days ago. I'll finish it tomorrow. I was in trim jail Aaaaalllllll day today. I started at 5:30am and finish putting the last label on the jars at 6:30pm. I did, however, take a 1 hour break for lunch. The results for Sept 21: Orange Sherbet FF - 188.43 grams, 6.73oz (2 plants) Gorilla Cookies FF - 86.97 grams, 3.1oz The results for Sept 27: Orange Sherbert FF - 104.5 grams, 3.73 oz (2 plants) One more quick trim day to go. The results for Oct. 3: Gorilla Cookies FF - 36.28 grams, 1.3 oz Not including all of the little popcorn buds I chopped up and threw into the trim, it's 14.86 oz. That's it for this run. Take care, gromies!!
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Posting the phenos when I do them
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Got lovely big plants there feels like they are taking forever hav actually lost track of wen a started this grow but a harvested an auto flower far to early was thinking of just makin cookies wae it photo periods were defoliate last nite any tips are welcome troops n does
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@Ferenc
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Really nice plant. It remained small!!! A lot of stinky very well THC coated buds. It likes water, and strong strain I had tried before and the effects are awesome. Relaxing body parts arms and legs get heavy it is like more medical. I will be back with the effects after one week. It has to be dried and I need to start curing it. Lovely strain. Update: really nice smoke guys. Strong and yeah makes you high, relaxed, medical effect. Strong indica.
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🌿 Amnesia Skunk Automatic Week 8 From Seed ā‰ˆ Week 4 Flower (12/12 From Seed Run) She may be 8 weeks old, but biologically she’s in her fourth week of active flowering — and she’s behaving exactly like a plant that has found her rhythm. After defoliation? She bounced back like nothing happened. No stall. No stress signals. Just structure, stacking, and deep healthy green. That’s not luck. That’s environment + balance. And she’s beautiful. āø» Environment — Playing on the Edge (But Controlled) Room Conditions • Canopy Temp: ~28°C • RH: ~70% • COā‚‚: 1000+ ppm • PPFD: 800 → 1300 µmol/m²/s On paper, 28°C + 70% RH sounds high. But numbers without airflow mean nothing. Massive Airflow We’re running: • Strong horizontal movement • Vertical air displacement • Active air exchange • Under-canopy circulation Airflow changes everything. Stagnant 70% RH is dangerous. Moving 70% RH behaves very differently. āø» šŸƒ Leaf VPD vs Room VPD Room VPD says one thing. Leaf VPD tells the real story. Under strong light, leaf surface temperature runs slightly above ambient. That increases transpiration. Add 1000+ ppm COā‚‚: • Stomata don’t need to open as wide • Photosynthesis rate increases • Plants tolerate higher humidity • Metabolism stays high That’s why they’re not just surviving. They’re pushing. āø» šŸ’” Lighting Strategy — Scaled to Structure We are not blasting everything equally. • Larger tops: up to 1300 µmol • Smaller plants: ~800 µmol Light intensity is matched to plant size and leaf mass. No ego lighting. Only usable photons. āø» šŸ”¦ Under-Canopy Lighting — Why? This isn’t a gimmick. Purpose: • Illuminate lower bud sites • Reduce larf • Stimulate lower-zone photosynthesis • Improve uniformity • Keep lower canopy metabolically active We’re not replacing top light. We’re filling in where dense canopy blocks energy. Active lower buds stay healthier. Healthier lowers improve airflow. Better airflow stabilizes microclimate. Everything connects. āø» šŸ”“ End-of-Day Red (15 Minutes After Lights Off) We run a 15-minute red pulse at lights-off. This is phytochrome management. Plants operate with two main phytochrome states: • Pr (red-absorbing) • Pfr (far-red absorbing) Red light pushes phytochrome into the active Pfr state. In darkness, Pfr slowly converts back to Pr. By giving a short red signal: • We influence phytochrome equilibrium • Support flowering signaling • Encourage structural consistency • Potentially stabilize transition timing It does not extend photoperiod. It manipulates light signaling — not day length. And as always: We experiment. We observe. We document. No magic claims. āø» 🌱 Feeding & EC — They’re Hungry • Soil EC: 0.9 • Feed EC: 2.4 This tells us something important. They’re eating aggressively. As long as runoff EC stays stable and does not climb: We maintain strength. High metabolic demand requires high input. If soil EC rises? We adapt immediately. No rigid formulas. Only feedback-based decisions. āø» šŸ“ø Visual Observations From the traditional full-plant shots to the macro work: • Tight stacking beginning • Strong pistil development • Leaves praying under high PPFD • No signs of stress after defoliation • Structure clean and symmetrical She is balanced. And balance is power. Oh that topping was an accident wen moving her šŸ™ šŸ“” DELETED @ 1K Please stay tuned.we never quit https://www.youtube.com/@DOGDOGTHEDOCTOR NEW šŸ™ Thank you for your patience and continued support. FOR DISCOUNT CODES AND MORE JUST FOLLOW THE LINK https://website.beacons.ai/dogdoctorofficial šŸ“² Don’t forget to Subscribe and follow me on Instagram and YouTube @DogDoctorOfficial for exclusive content, real-time updates, and behind-the-scenes magic. We’ve got so much more coming, including transplanting and all the amazing techniques that go along with it. You won’t want to miss it. GrowDiaries Journal: https://growdiaries.com/grower/dogdoctorofficial Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dogdoctorofficial/ YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@dogdoctorofficial Deleted by Youtube Vimeo : https://vimeo.com/dogdoctorofficial Under construction stay tuned āø» Explore the Gear that Powers My Grow If you’re curious about the tech I’m using, check out these links: šŸ”† Lighting & Environmental Control • Future of Grow — Advanced LED lighting technology https://www.futureofgrow.com/ DISCOUNT CODE: DOG20 • Lumiflora — Under-canopy LED lighting https://lumiflorade.com/ • TrollMaster — Environmental controllers and automation gear (past collaboration) āø» Genetics • Zamnesia Seeds — Genetics used in this project https://www.zamnesia.com/ āø» 🌱 Soil, Substrates, Boosters & Root Support • Plagron — Substrates, bio mixes, and supportive products https://plagron.com/en/ āø» šŸŽ’ Storage, Curing & Preservation • Grove Bags — Curing and storage solutions https://grovebags.com/ āø» šŸ“ø Photography Equipment & Tools (Not sponsors, but part of my creative toolkit) • Sony A6700 • Sony full-frame macro lens + few more • Stacking photography workflow - learning • iPhone (for behind-the-scenes shots) We’ve got much more coming as we move through the grow cycles. Trust me, you won’t want to miss the next steps, let’s push the boundaries of indoor horticulture together! As always, this is shared for educational purposes, aiming to spread understanding and appreciation for this plant. Let’s celebrate it responsibly and continue to learn and grow together. With true love comes happiness. Always believe in yourself, and always do things expecting nothing and with an open heart. Be a giver, and the universe will give back in ways you could never imagine. šŸ’š Growers love to all šŸ’š šŸ“ø P.S. – The Eye Behind the Lens All photos in this diary (for now — except for the ones showing the camera, which I took with an iPhone) are taken with a Sony A6700 paired with a Sony full-frame macro lens and a few more. Photography is part of the story — it’s how we share the fine textures, the glow, and the quiet details that words can’t always capture. I’ve also started experimenting with photo stacking — a technique where multiple images, each taken at a slightly different focus point, are layered together to create one perfectly sharp image from front to back. It’s not digital enhancement or AI; it’s pure photography — a way to reveal the plant’s beauty in microscopic depth, from trichome to petal. You’ll even see a few shots of "ghost me" capturing the shots — camera, lens, setup — because every grow deserves not just to be cultivated, but documented like art. FOR DISCOUNT CODES AND MORE JUST FOLLOW THE LINK https://website.beacons.ai/dogdoctorofficial NEW DISCORD - Official Server Invite Link : https://discord.gg/ksjAkA5T74
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@MG2009
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01/27/2022 Got a couple stragglers in cups but working on getting more pots. I apologize for rough looking leaves on the plants, I've been spraying neem oil as a preventative, and to also boost immune responses I've been doing aspirin in water regime so leaves can get beaten up being scavenged for extra energy. (to fight a non existing threat) At least in my experiences. 02/02/2022 Potted up a Lemon OG into ? gallon self watering pot will top dress with Coast of Maine 5-2-4 and water in for first week or two, then to 12-12 for her
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Salutations, fellow cultivators! Week 2 unfolds with the grace of a symphony, and the tale of my Blackberry Auto continues to captivate. The journey is both an art and a science, and every green leaf is a brushstroke on the canvas of cultivation. Our heroine has found her throne – a final 16L AutoPot. What makes AutoPots the crown jewel of cultivation, you ask? These self-watering wonders provide a dynamic, gravity-fed watering system, ensuring the plant receives precisely what it needs when it needs it. It's the epitome of hands-off perfection, allowing the plant to dictate its own hydration destiny. Transplant day is a ritual, a moment where roots meet Mycor Mix magic. This mix, a blend of mycorrhizae species, becomes the plant's ally, expanding the root system and fostering nutrient uptake. It's like giving my Blackberry Auto a superhero sidekick, enhancing her abilities and resilience. The transplantation dance continues with the application of Aptus Holland Mycor Mix on the roots and surroundings. This isn't just a transplant; it's a ritual of care. Mycor Mix establishes a symbiotic relationship, unlocking nutrients and fortifying the soil with beneficial microorganisms. It's a small act with profound effects, ensuring my plant's journey is supported at its very foundation. As the pot receives its royal guest, the soil is adorned with 75g of Aptus All-in-One pellets (NPK). This powerhouse blend provides a balanced nutrient feast, a banquet for optimal growth. The soil is further enriched with Aptus Micro Mix, a harmonious supplement that fine-tunes the nutrient symphony, ensuring every note is in perfect balance. Post-transplant, the ritual concludes with a nourishing bath – my Veg Aptus Recipe. This elixir, carefully concocted, ensures a smooth transition for Blackberry Auto. It's not just water; it's a potion that whispers the promise of health, strength, and vitality. The week embraces low-stress training, a dance where leaves are gently bent to shape the plant's architecture. Blackberry Auto, the prima ballerina, responds with joy. This technique not only encourages lateral growth but also maximizes light exposure, orchestrating a symphony of photosynthesis. As I witness this botanical ballet, I'm reminded that cultivation is a dialogue between caretaker and plant. Together, we embark on a journey where each element, from AutoPot elegance to Mycor Mix finesse, plays a vital role. Stay tuned for the continued saga of Blackberry Auto – a story told leaf by leaf, in every graceful twist and turn. Genetics Blackberry Auto @Fast_Buds Food - @aptusholland @aptus_world As always thank you all for stopping by, for the love and for it all , this journey of mine wold just not be the same without you guys, the love and support is very much appreciated and i fell honored and blessed with you all in my life
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@Pulsar00
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Welcome back boys, Everything's going as planned :) Still don't know if I should defoliate, I chose to let the leaves grow a bit more until next week. I will use wood sticks to maintain them a little more spaced. See you next week buddies
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Coming along great 1 is obviously the winner on this girl. So others will be booted out for room. On vacation so stuff little slower coming in. Will be back to normal enjoy the pics On vacation in Florida in a condo 3 bedroom all 5 kids!!! Stay up everyone Love
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@nijuana
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The šŸš€ is loaded šŸ˜˜šŸ€
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Decent week. More LST and some defoliation. Good advice from community attempting to bring the main stem down further using LST to lower the light and get more into the lower buds. Don't think she'll put on any huge amounts more growth but I love her all the same. Had some issues with smell which made me a little nervous as my tent is outside under cover close'ish to the neighbour. Bought a plug in ambi per perfume dispenser. Actually works well to mask the smell.
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@Daviz_42
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Los dos fenos tienes cosas en común, pero el dos es sin duda mÔs especial, me gusta mÔs por los terpenos y la cantidad de resina y la calidad de esta. Otra para mi coleccion de madres.
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9/22 topped them at 4th node. some of them are looking better for mainlining that others. some of them i may not mainline and others i left an extra node in case i want to keep clones around. #1 is looking happy with the topping and looks really good. #2 is the only one thats been praying and is the tallest and strongest looking all around. #5 short and such tight internodal spacing that it makes it hard to see whats all there. just looks like a bunch of small leaves until they grow out. i may not mainline this one either be cause of it being so tightly packed it may make it 9/27/24 day 20 theyre growing quite well. #1 i ended up taking the bottom nodes. i was originally goi g to use them as clones later on but decided to just let her go with her 4 nodes. #5 is so tightly packed, she has like 8 mains all in such a small space, its hard to even make sense of it all.
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Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sÅ­b′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of COā‚‚. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.
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End for this SLH ! Dutch classic I must ran ! Never forget the first time I smoke it in Amsterdam XXX !