First Harvest-Crazy Day. I had no choice, only to cut it early, but at that moment I thought it was time. I had to leave for 2 weeks and GPT told me it posile to cut now. So I cut my plant, by colas and left them for 2 weeks in fresh frosen to make hash later. 2 weeks later i got some 5 gramm of hash , dry rest of weed ,smoke it in one week. I have got high, but not stoned. at least I got something😂 watch the pictures and lough on me ,I totaly deserved. Enjoy and Peace 4 Everybody Primer dia de coshecha- el dia mas tonto del año Me corte esta plant 5 horas antes de volar fuera de pais por 2 semanas y me puso todo en las bolsas cerrado en frigorifico para hacer luego el hash. en el momento de corte me pense que todo mas o menos bien,hasta GPT me dicia eso. Al final me salio 5 gr de hashish y toda una mierda de hierba mojada. me sece como podido y fume todo en una semana. si, me ponia arriba, pero a mi ,me gusta tumbarme y eso no habia. Entonces soy tonto y me corte mi primera planta como minimo 2 semanas antes. Que vas hacer? sentarte y mas crecer😎 un Abrazo a todo el mundo. Chao Sprritzer

Weekly update on these sweet girls. They're progressing nice and starting to swell at the flower sites. No issues and growing strong as I'm still seeing daily differences. All in all Happy Growing

Har valgt at rykke hende i telt, hvor jeg lige har fået købt mig en rigtig god lampe til. Nu må vi se om den skulle være blevet ude. Men man har jo lov til at eksperimentere. 😉

Hi there, This is the last week of the flowering. I will start flushing within next 3 days. The plant looks good and healthy. I feed the plant every day 2-3 L. The arome is just amazing sweet and fruity.

What a fun run this was ! These Ogreberrys finished up from 81 days to 102 days with nice hints of gassy , sour purple , sweetness and glistening with frost! These ladies will cure up for a month an will be ready to test out ! So much fun , I highly recommend this strain if your looking for some oooy gooohy resiny grape smelling nugs !

Welcome to Week 6, Day 42 for the Sweet Seeds Gorilla Girl XL Autoflowering grow. All four of these lovely ladies are now fully into flower and the tent has filled up considerably. Even though this grow cycle is not going to produce the XL plants I was originally hoping for, this strain seems to have a lot of bud sites compared to other autos I have grown previously. Had these plants reached their full potential- I truly believe that this could/would have been a massive harvest. I fertilized them again in Week 6 with their final dose of a Grow based formula at 2 mls/gallon. They will be switched over a Bloom based fertilizer in Week 7 at a rate of 2.5 mls/gallon. I am still watering every 4th day and all four plants are receiving 3 litres each or 0.75 of a litre per plant per day. There is something killing off the foliage from the bottom up on the plant in the front of the tent on the left hand side. Not sure what the problem is so I am simply removing the dead/dying foliage as needed and hoping that she’ll have enough leaves to make it through to harvest. Mom’s Tip for Week #6- When it comes to Fertilizer- $Less$ = More… For me, successfully growing Cannabis indoors means trying to mimic what nature normally provides for free. Sun, fresh air, water and nutrient rich soil are all essential for healthy, happy plants. At some point during the grow (usually 4-6 weeks in) the plant has used up all of the nutrients originally present in the soil thus requiring the grower to have to supplement with some type of fertilizer. I see many growers photographing and showing off their huge displays of colourful bottles and I gasp when I read their long lists of 10-15 different fertilizers and supplements being added to every single batch of water. Not only is this unbelievably expensive and overwhelming but time consuming and completely unnecessary for a successful grow. For those seeking an Organic path there are options such as homemade compost tea or powdered formulas consisting of bat guano, glacial rock dust, bone meal, alfalfa meal, etc. I often use a Canadian made brand called “Gaia Green Organics", mixed in at the start to create my own super soil thus carrying the plants through their first 4-6 weeks of life needing nothing more than PH’d water. The organic fertilizers are usually more expensive and often have a slower uptake by the plants themselves as they tend to feed the soil first which in turn feeds the plants. For novice/newbie growers and those with fast flowering strains such as Autos- a non organic, liquid, water soluble fertilizer is often the way to go. They are generally cheap, easy to use and quickly taken up by the plants when they need it most. My ride or die brand is "Flora Nova” by General Hydroponics and it comes in a 1 part nutrient grow and bloom formula catering to my plants’ needs from start to finish. This company has many options available including all kinds of additional supplements to be used in conjunction with their standard grow/bloom formulas but I’ve never found these products all that necessary or beneficial. Using them in the past has led to over fertilization resulting in burnt foliage, stunted bud development and harsh flavours when smoking/vaping the final product. Not only does $Less is More$ apply to how many fertilizers you are giving your plants but it also applies to how much. Most photosensitive strains can easily tolerate a full dose (as per the manufacturer’s recommendations) and thrive with being fed every time you water. But Autoflowers and some smaller photosensitive strains seem to respond differently to a slight tweak- keeping in mind that if you start small, you can always add more but if you start big, you can’t take back what’s already been given. I will generally only fertilize at half of what the manufacturer recommends for a photosensitive strain- every other or every second watering. Starting out at a quarter dose for the initial feeding which can sometimes be as low as 1.25 mls per gallon and working my way up from there. It doesn’t seem like much but within hours I can see my plants responding positively with increased/sustained turgor, greening up a little and increased resin production which equals "smell/scent". For me, I can smell when I’ve just fertilized my plants- it’s a stronger smell than the normal scent that they give off with a plain watering. If you’re lucky, you’ll end up growing a greedy Autoflowering strain that seems to want more than what you’re giving it. Rather than increasing to a higher dose in a single feeding, try feeding more often at the same dose- so if you’re feeding every other or every second watering, try feeding every watering at the same dose (trying not to increase above half of the manufacturer’s recommendation for the photo strains). Occasionally I will increase beyond the halfway dose to accommodate for the plants’ needs in late flower as most fertilizer companies list an increase to adequately feed during late flower anyhow. I guess the main message for this week is to keep it simple as nature intended. Learn to read your plants and supplement the small amount of nutrients that your plants don’t already have in the high quality soil you initially provided. Cannabis cultivation can be overwhelming at first but the $Less is More$ approach will save you time, money and the realization that you’ve accidentally fried your plants!

Being lazy this grow yano the score too high

Decided to take it outside.... 'till june 21st light hours outdoor expand..now it is 14hrs and rising... will germ indoor a few days and then will let it have all day sun later on the grow expecting much of this

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

The girls are doing well they took 64oz each on the last watering and I will continue to increase as we go along. I am very pleased with the progress so far and have my fingers crossed that it will continue 👍☮️

The Blackberry auto by Fastbuds has been a thrilling plant to grow. Starting off as a tri-cotyledon seedling, she's been a rush from the start. When she came out mutated I didn't even know if I wanted to keep her; I asked the growdiaries.com community for help. After speaking with a few experts I decided to keep it and see what would happen.. Since then she has developed thick healthy stocks stalks and dark leaves with ripe purple flowers bursting out between them add every node. Using a home mix super soil with Promis Organic as the base, I decided to feed compost extracts laced with Golden Tree & CalMag which helped kick this girl into over drive and push out these dense sticky buds. I'm expecting around 3 ounces from her and it's day 73 since she popped out of the soil. She has a sweet aroma and is completely covered in trichomes. Drying/ Curing process: - she will be hung upside down by the main stock until she is dry (8-12 days) - My humidity will be set to 55 - 60 % and my temps will range from 65-70 degrees F - Will store in Glas Mason jars with 2-way Boveda humidty packs. These are a lifesaver for new growers. They will keep the humidity in the jar at 62%. - after 2 weeks I'll throw down a mad sesh Thanks to everyone who offered me tips and help when I needed it. Thanks Fastbuds for all you do for the community, including growdiaries.com

1/22 Week 4! Folded in some CalMag temporarily for a slight def showing up in Jool, foliar of same on all. Recovering nicely from topping will decide on 2cd later Jool recovered her normal color in just a few hours after feedings. Can pull the Cal-Mag for a while. Thought of increasing nuets a tad to 10ml but no need to rush just may have to hit them with Cal-Mag once in a while. Time to hit the roots again 10ml/gal Kangaroots one feed only 1/25 Leaving in a small amount - 2ml/gal - of Cal-Mag with CocoTek more for peace of mind than anything else Keeping them small till I have a place to flower then... then we pour it on. 1/27 Continuing to walk the line between keeping them healthy and keeping the size down - working ok so far Growing nicely although some concern found on Zhaan, feeding pattern on just the two tops shown, no where else. Nothing seen , sticky trap put up will check often for further. Not grabbing the Soap just yet see if anything else pokes up 1/28 Sticky trap clean so no flying critters Think hes right about strange leaves but I want to add I may have done some of this during topping. Just from what I see Bit of a conundrum the plants are near-ish to the size we wanted to flower them at BUT there is no room at the Inn, (sativas...) so we have one path to getting this done. Keeping them as small as we can without risking defs for another week then beginning the flowering in the veg tent Moya while the sativa finishes in 2 weeks. Thats one week of flower in the small tent at best, not sure about that. I swear two tents and one is a 4x4 and still space problems... good to have that problem too 😃 That's the plan but we know there is about a ton of crap that will go wrong like that sativa taking longer. Re-eval in a week Feeding remains as before 1/29 Pic and vid to end week no further issues and the tent is now full. Good problem to have but its convinced us that flowering in Moya is problematic Raised lights to 24" to see if they will go up instead of out for a while. Defol the bottom end of the plants just a bit in attempt to encourage some vertical growth with that as well.

Week 5 buds are getting fat!! Starting to get excited.. continuing lst and defoliation!

Going well;)))

22 December 2020 Both of these ladies are almost ready for harvest, not really much to update. Next week I will remove the scrog and and start flushing these ladies ladies for a week.

This is my first grow I have haze berry critical and northern lights and white widow automatic the baby’s are critical mush and the 2 seedlings are white widow all from RQS can people give me some useful tips and vote for me

This for all growers buts pro ll love she

Today They have pop in my new room is completely ready for a New girls season I am going to use a rosin press for a large quantity off all the flowers That we produce And I will be reviewing that brand ones it arrive

Plants look great, was hoping for more of a stretch last week but still fairly happy with the plants. Day 36 - I’ll be adding a seed sprout tea this week(awaiting germination) with malted barley and corn. I’m chasing after the amino acids that will increase nutrient uptake as well make my plants more tolerant to environmental stress as I cannot fully control my heat and humidity. As per my humidity pic on 36 - there was a massive mountain fire in my city that raged out of control and burned a few establishments, houses and part of a University. My humidity remained 30-37 all. I wonder if that was the effect of the fire. Day 37 - Fire has been successfully put out by this morning and humidity is back to where it needs to be. The plants look great today although of heat and low humidity of yesterday. Seems like the very resilient now and will be pushing the plants here on out Gave the plants a light water (500ml with full kelphos dose(2.5ml per 500ml) today as with the heat and how thirsty they are, I’m sure they will be ready for another water tomorrow. hoping the barley seeds sprout overnight for a lovely 420 treat for the girls tomorrow. Really excited by about LP#1 which has about 7-8 tops - my money is on this plant to be the top yielded of my tent🎰 Day 38 - humidity and temp is perfect 29* high and an average humidity of 48-50. Fed my plants a Seed Sprout Tea with recipe below. 1. Rinse and washed seeds (barely and corn) 2. Place in a paper towel after 24 hour soak in dechlorinated water. 3. Store in a warm dark area for germination. 4. Once germinated, blended up and diluted in water for final product. I added 1 part SST, 9 parts water Day 39 - plants have responded well to SST, and humidity climbing to high 50s, tough to regulate humidity without any AC and humidifier but hopefully with the amino acids I have just fed the girls, the nutrient uptake will remain optimal. White residue- it was only found in areas where water could be stored on leaves eg. Where stem meets leaf, in the center of the leaves and came off very easy with a light dry rub even. I removed the leaves anyway in case of a fungi problem such as Powdery Mildew Day 40 - plants responded well to SST and continuing to stretch. The buds look amazing and only in 2 week flower. These fastbuds continues to amaze me Happy Earth Day to all organic growers out there🌍 Day 41 - adjusted the plants to make more room for them to grow. The strawberry pie in the top right was late to surface to about 2-3 days but starting to fill out now