Hello! End of week 10, I'm already at the finish line. When it seems to me that nothing is happening anymore, the bending and breaking branches remind me that the plants continue to gain weight, and this is not bad. A bright berry-fuel smell appeared, I continue to monitor. Thank you for stopping by, and be healthy! 🙏 To be continued... 😶

-Grow is going great. Swelling up -I've been dropping the temps and humidity down during lights off. The temps don't drop below 66 degrees and I try to bring the humidity level down to 30-35% several times throughout the dark period. -Starting my flush. On my hydro plants, I will be using florakleen and hydroguard in water with a ph level of 6.0-6.2. -Flushing the plants in coco with ph balanced water and blackstrap molasses for the remainder of the grow. A nice experiment to see what difference it makes.

This plant was a dream to grow, wish I'd taken cuts. Halfway through dry at 7 days. Drying at 55 - 60 % RH and 17 - 19 degrees C. I anticipate she'll be done between 10 - 14 days total dry time and I'll then trim and update weights on this Harvest. 133.75g total after trim. She's a nice smoke, very happy.

Day 38 Of Flower Watered once in the past week Defoliated once in the past week

I can't see the very back pheno of the blue Gelato 41,but I'm not impressed so far. There is a lot of bulking to do, compared to other strains in the tent. These are set to finish Dec 26th. Hopefully they start stacking asap

El germinado fue genial 100%.. de 43 semillas todas germinaron ..comienza el cultivo de estas orangecake auto de nemeseeds_bank..saludos a todos y wenos humos

I am doing a light defoliation ✂️on my 3 Noris Cakes, I will continue in the coming weeks to reduce the humidity in the tent starting with the leaves and new shoots from below which capture less light from the lamp👌 ⌚️At the end of this week I start to reduce the schedule where my lamp is on by 1 hour per day to reach 12 hours of day and 12 hours of night next week and start flowering. ------------------------------------------------------------ 💧Watering each pot: Day 25 : 0.5 L Day 28 : 0.5 L I use tap water, adjust the ph to around 6 and water ------------------------------------------------------------ 🔥❄️Temperature of the week : Day : 19-23°C (Humidity : 60-75%) Night : 14-17°C ------------------------------------------------------------ 🚀Equipment of the week ⭐️ : Light FC3000 Mars hydro. power 95% at 50cm Extractor 6 inch Mars Hydro. power 1/10. ON 24/24h 2 fans to circulate the air inside the tent. Each on for 30 minutes then off for 1 hour. this rhythm repeats itself in a loop Heating mat 95x95cm. ON 45 minutes. OFF 30minutes. In a loop. The day only ------------------------------------------------------------ 🌎 I created my discount code on Mars Hydro. Get 5% off with my code: houstone5 By using a code, in addition to getting a discount, you directly support the creator who shares it.🙏 So if you make purchases on Mars Hydro don't forget to enter a code😀 Mine is "houstone5" 😉 https://www.mars-hydro.com/?acc=hou-stone ----------------------------------------------------- My instagram 👨‍🚀🌱 : https://www.instagram.com/hou_stone420/ ------------------------------------------------------ Thanks for your visit 👌 💚

A bit of nute burn. Burnt tips on a few leaves but still continued to feed nutes to this lady. Good growth. Will not be topping this one just defoliate.

Hi

Still a few week before harvest. I have stopped adding N as much as possible to my nutrient solution. It might help the bud swell up a little more the last few weeks. Also been adding big bud and bud candy from Advanced Nutrients. I will feed the girls 2 weeks more before going into flush. My soil Sour diesel is ready for flush anytime soon. #1 (back right) have suffered from being to close to the light while also not having enough airflow around it. Have fixed the air problem but cant bring my light any further up. kept around 22 cm from the tallest branch 30< cm from the rest which is the minimum recommended. They smell really pungent and the suger leafs and buds are coted with crystals. My autoflower (front left) is doing good too and i really cant wait to taste it. A good week (kinda)

Benedetto sia il giorno (1 anno fa) in cui ho comprato queste Rainbow Belts!!! Sono sicuro già a metà fioritura che sarà l'erba più buona che avrò fumato in tutta la mia vita. Sa di lime o cmq sembra di mettere il naso in un pacchetto di caramelle Zkittlez Spendete quella mezz'ora in più del vostro tempo per cercare l'incrocio giusto da coltivare piuttosto che fare la prima cosa che vi passa tra le mani. L'erba non è tutta uguale 😏 Ci vediamo settimana prossima 🖐️ ❤️

W16 (16-5 to 22-5) 16-5 Temperature: 25.4 degrees (lights on) 19.8 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 68% (highest) 48% (lowest) Watering: 1000 ml. 17-5 Temperature: 24.8 degrees (lights on) 20.1 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 69% (highest) 51% (lowest) Watering: None. No pictures. 18-5 Temperature: 25.1 degrees (lights on) 21.1 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 67% (highest) 42% (lowest) Watering: None. 19-5 Temperature: 25.7 degrees (lights on) 19.1 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 64% (highest) 44% (lowest) Watering: 1500 ml. No pictures. 20-5 Temperature: 25.8 degrees (lights on) 20.9 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 68% (highest) 45% (lowest) Watering: 1500 ml. 21-5 Temperature: 25.9 degrees (lights on) 20.6 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 67% (highest) 51% (lowest) Watering: 1000 ml. (Only with Silica and Calcium) 22-5 Temperature: 25.9 degrees (lights on) 19.6 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 68% (highest) 47% (lowest) Watering: None.

Started 3 days ago from clone. Started LST today, also removed lower branches to encourage growth.

Overall i'm really happy with this strain. First i thought i wouldn't get a high yield but i'm pretty happy with it i got 250grams of top trimmed buds 2g of hashoil 2g of bubblehash and another 80grams of dry plant material for making bubblehash. Super potent strain with an amazing flavour, definitely nit the last time growing this strain.

another week on full dose. 3-4 weeks remaining.

High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.

I started picking for forbidden fruits the day after last week’s post, checking the colas with the scope and only picking tops that were approx 10-20% amber. As I snipped colas I also removed a lot of upper fan leaves, this is to allow light to reach lower buds for a final ripening. Once picked, I placed approx 100g in each brown paper bag, folded the top and sat on a rack. I slowly rolled the bags around once or twice a day just so the buds didn’t stick together. Seems to have worked well, no dreaded hay smell to note and nicely dried. I think I’ll be taking some more colas tops off in a few days time and I’ll keep the plants alive for another week or two, depending on how fast they come along. I have 4 Mimosa EVO (no diary) about 7 weeks into veg at the moment and I think it would be nice to give them another 2 weeks as I need big plants to make clones from them, ready for the next diary coming soon... hopefully with successfully taken clones 😊